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Shimano 333 hub problem
I built up a lovely kids bike with a Shimano 333 coaster brake 3 speed
hub. The young lad rode it on the ride we took today. There's been a consistent problem keeping gear #2 adjusted. It acts as if an internal spring responsible for pulling the hub into 2nd gear is somehow weak. That is, the little circle with the letter N doesn't settle down in its target hole. As a kludge, I used a bit of inner tube as a rubber band on the bellcrank to help pull the hub into 2nd, but that rubber decayed and I didn't have a spare. In any case, I've readjusted it several times in the past couple months. I'd suspect a dragging cable, except the hub shifts into the other gears just fine. 3rd gear requires the hub to retract the cable even more, and shows no problems. Of course, I lubricated the cable during installation. I even spent time grinding away part of the kickstand mount to give the straightest possible cable routing. Unfortunately, the bike is an hour away and I normally see it at most once per week; so some things are difficult to check, other things may be difficult to remember. But are these hubs extra sensitive to cable friction? Instead of the full housing, should I consider scrounging parts to run bare cable over pulleys, etc? But if anyone has tips, I'd be grateful. -- - Frank Krygowski |
#2
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Shimano 333 hub problem
On Sun, 06 Jan 2019 22:23:58 -0500, Frank Krygowski wrote:
I built up a lovely kids bike with a Shimano 333 coaster brake 3 speed hub. The young lad rode it on the ride we took today. There's been a consistent problem keeping gear #2 adjusted. It acts as if an internal spring responsible for pulling the hub into 2nd gear is somehow weak. That is, the little circle with the letter N doesn't settle down in its target hole. As a kludge, I used a bit of inner tube as a rubber band on the bellcrank to help pull the hub into 2nd, but that rubber decayed and I didn't have a spare. In any case, I've readjusted it several times in the past couple months. I'd suspect a dragging cable, except the hub shifts into the other gears just fine. 3rd gear requires the hub to retract the cable even more, and shows no problems. Of course, I lubricated the cable during installation. I even spent time grinding away part of the kickstand mount to give the straightest possible cable routing. Unfortunately, the bike is an hour away and I normally see it at most once per week; so some things are difficult to check, other things may be difficult to remember. But are these hubs extra sensitive to cable friction? Instead of the full housing, should I consider scrounging parts to run bare cable over pulleys, etc? But if anyone has tips, I'd be grateful. Its a few decades snce I rode with a Sturney Archer 3 spped hub and my understanding of how they worked was you set #2, which was direct drive and adjusted for #1/#3. As you mentioned, things like cable drag, etc can affect gears meshing. How old is it? I basically wore mine out. Well, dad purchased it second hand and it was the kids bike although it ended up being me who rode it, every where & everyday. Is the hand piece(?)/adjuster correct for the device? I vaguely remember one hand piece not being suitable, aka either twist grip or thumb shifter. They were "indexed". |
#3
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Shimano 333 hub problem
On 1/6/2019 9:23 PM, Frank Krygowski wrote:
I built up a lovely kids bike with a Shimano 333 coaster brake 3 speed hub. The young lad rode it on the ride we took today. There's been a consistent problem keeping gear #2 adjusted. It acts as if an internal spring responsible for pulling the hub into 2nd gear is somehow weak. That is, the little circle with the letter N doesn't settle down in its target hole. As a kludge, I used a bit of inner tube as a rubber band on the bellcrank to help pull the hub into 2nd, but that rubber decayed and I didn't have a spare. In any case, I've readjusted it several times in the past couple months. I'd suspect a dragging cable, except the hub shifts into the other gears just fine. 3rd gear requires the hub to retract the cable even more, and shows no problems. Of course, I lubricated the cable during installation. I even spent time grinding away part of the kickstand mount to give the straightest possible cable routing. Unfortunately, the bike is an hour away and I normally see it at most once per week; so some things are difficult to check, other things may be difficult to remember. But are these hubs extra sensitive to cable friction? Instead of the full housing, should I consider scrounging parts to run bare cable over pulleys, etc? But if anyone has tips, I'd be grateful. Generally I'd suggest open, clean, lubricate but in the case of an F or FA gearbox, you need the Shimano ball cup tool to do that. Next time you're there, remove the bell crank and see if the pushrod moves easily with your thumb. If it does, you may merely have a sticky/smashed/worn bell crank and those are simple to reform. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
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