Cyclometer and Cargo Bikes...

On 2017-08-24 13:43, AMuzi wrote:
On 8/24/2017 3:09 PM, Duane wrote:
On 24/08/2017 3:59 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-24 12:53, Duane wrote:
On 24/08/2017 3:51 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-24 09:40, wrote:

[...]


depends on where you are from there ...

if you're after a gnarly ride itsa different trip than
going over a
'gnarly' section wit the intent of traveling from A-B

for me at 70 n occasionally gnarly prior, gnarly means
constant
correction n balance maintaining forward speeds at
moderate speed
levels...with an index for injury in failure to
maintain as rock vs
grass berms ....trees....cliffs...Saturday night
vehicle traffic


That pretty much sums up my ride yesterday. Nothing
super spectacular
but fun. The only iffy part right now is that the BB is
on its last
legs so I have to be prepared to hoof it out of there in
case it
seizes up. That wouldn't be the end of the world either.


Why wouldn't you just replace the BB before it seizes up?


I'll have to first take it out to find out exactly what
size it is. Then put it back in until the new one gets
here (will replace with the hopefully better BB-ES51). The
MTB has to do two more trips, less than 100mi total and
it's not (yet) so bad that I'd be concerned. After that I
will remove the BB, look and order one.

I did the same with the road bike. There is was easier. On
the old adjustable kind you could rotate the cranks 180
degrees and get a (partial) 2nd life out of the BB. Now it
has a new UN-55.


I don't get it. If I need a part for my bike, I call the
LBS and ask him if it's in stock. If not, he'll order it and
I get it in 2 weeks or less. Granted, I don't live out
there where you do.

Even if you want to mail order it, why do you have to take
the BB out to find out which one it is? You can't just find
the model and get the replacement part list and order it
from that? I would guess that if you had the model of the
bike, Andrew Muzi could probably tell you which BB you needed.

Yes, but even simpler just look at the crank model number on the inside
of the crank arm, measure BB width (68 or 73mm for an MTB). That's
definitive without removing anything.


The cranks are very scuffed up but looks like FC-M522, width 68mm and
the thread diameter is 1.420". What I don't know is the spindle length
and those cranks will only come off with serious torque on the puller
and lots of cuss words, something I really don't want to do twice. I
have to make sure the chain line stays the same.

The BB should be ok for another 100mi. IME they can be nursed along with
a few drops of turbine oil once they develop play.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

On 8/24/2017 4:01 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-24 13:43, AMuzi wrote:
On 8/24/2017 3:09 PM, Duane wrote:
On 24/08/2017 3:59 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-24 12:53, Duane wrote:
On 24/08/2017 3:51 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-24 09:40, wrote:

[...]


depends on where you are from there ...

if you're after a gnarly ride itsa different trip than
going over a
'gnarly' section wit the intent of traveling from A-B

for me at 70 n occasionally gnarly prior, gnarly means
constant
correction n balance maintaining forward speeds at
moderate speed
levels...with an index for injury in failure to
maintain as rock vs
grass berms ....trees....cliffs...Saturday night
vehicle traffic


That pretty much sums up my ride yesterday. Nothing
super spectacular
but fun. The only iffy part right now is that the BB is
on its last
legs so I have to be prepared to hoof it out of there in
case it
seizes up. That wouldn't be the end of the world either.


Why wouldn't you just replace the BB before it seizes up?


I'll have to first take it out to find out exactly what
size it is. Then put it back in until the new one gets
here (will replace with the hopefully better BB-ES51). The
MTB has to do two more trips, less than 100mi total and
it's not (yet) so bad that I'd be concerned. After that I
will remove the BB, look and order one.

I did the same with the road bike. There is was easier. On
the old adjustable kind you could rotate the cranks 180
degrees and get a (partial) 2nd life out of the BB. Now it
has a new UN-55.


I don't get it. If I need a part for my bike, I call the
LBS and ask him if it's in stock. If not, he'll order it and
I get it in 2 weeks or less. Granted, I don't live out
there where you do.

Even if you want to mail order it, why do you have to take
the BB out to find out which one it is? You can't just find
the model and get the replacement part list and order it
from that? I would guess that if you had the model of the
bike, Andrew Muzi could probably tell you which BB you
needed.

Yes, but even simpler just look at the crank model number
on the inside
of the crank arm, measure BB width (68 or 73mm for an
MTB). That's
definitive without removing anything.


The cranks are very scuffed up but looks like FC-M522, width
68mm and the thread diameter is 1.420". What I don't know is
the spindle length and those cranks will only come off with
serious torque on the puller and lots of cuss words,
something I really don't want to do twice. I have to make
sure the chain line stays the same.

The BB should be ok for another 100mi. IME they can be
nursed along with a few drops of turbine oil once they
develop play.



This is not rocket surgery. FC-M522 is all you need to know:

http://bike.shimano.com/media/techdo...9830749977.pdf

Once you know the part number, the manufacturer's
recommended spec is easy. There was a time when selecting an
optimal BB spindle was an art. Documentation was scarce and
often inaccurate at that. Those days are gone.

Use the manufacturer's recommended spindle length and other
spec at whatever quality level you find comfortable.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On 2017-08-24 15:22, AMuzi wrote:
On 8/24/2017 4:01 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-24 13:43, AMuzi wrote:
On 8/24/2017 3:09 PM, Duane wrote:
On 24/08/2017 3:59 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-24 12:53, Duane wrote:
On 24/08/2017 3:51 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-24 09:40, wrote:

[...]


depends on where you are from there ...

if you're after a gnarly ride itsa different trip than
going over a
'gnarly' section wit the intent of traveling from A-B

for me at 70 n occasionally gnarly prior, gnarly means
constant
correction n balance maintaining forward speeds at
moderate speed
levels...with an index for injury in failure to
maintain as rock vs
grass berms ....trees....cliffs...Saturday night
vehicle traffic


That pretty much sums up my ride yesterday. Nothing
super spectacular
but fun. The only iffy part right now is that the BB is
on its last
legs so I have to be prepared to hoof it out of there in
case it
seizes up. That wouldn't be the end of the world either.


Why wouldn't you just replace the BB before it seizes up?


I'll have to first take it out to find out exactly what
size it is. Then put it back in until the new one gets
here (will replace with the hopefully better BB-ES51). The
MTB has to do two more trips, less than 100mi total and
it's not (yet) so bad that I'd be concerned. After that I
will remove the BB, look and order one.

I did the same with the road bike. There is was easier. On
the old adjustable kind you could rotate the cranks 180
degrees and get a (partial) 2nd life out of the BB. Now it
has a new UN-55.


I don't get it. If I need a part for my bike, I call the
LBS and ask him if it's in stock. If not, he'll order it and
I get it in 2 weeks or less. Granted, I don't live out
there where you do.

Even if you want to mail order it, why do you have to take
the BB out to find out which one it is? You can't just find
the model and get the replacement part list and order it
from that? I would guess that if you had the model of the
bike, Andrew Muzi could probably tell you which BB you
needed.

Yes, but even simpler just look at the crank model number
on the inside
of the crank arm, measure BB width (68 or 73mm for an
MTB). That's
definitive without removing anything.


The cranks are very scuffed up but looks like FC-M522, width
68mm and the thread diameter is 1.420". What I don't know is
the spindle length and those cranks will only come off with
serious torque on the puller and lots of cuss words,
something I really don't want to do twice. I have to make
sure the chain line stays the same.

The BB should be ok for another 100mi. IME they can be
nursed along with a few drops of turbine oil once they
develop play.



This is not rocket surgery. FC-M522 is all you need to know:

http://bike.shimano.com/media/techdo...9830749977.pdf


Thanks! They recommend up to 435 in-lbs on the tiny 8mm Allen wrench. Yikes.

I was also surprised that they state not to grease the threads for the
plastic cup side. Wish they still supplied metal ones like they do with
the higher-priced square taper BBs.


Once you know the part number, the manufacturer's recommended spec is
easy. There was a time when selecting an optimal BB spindle was an art.
Documentation was scarce and often inaccurate at that. Those days are
gone.

Use the manufacturer's recommended spindle length and other spec at
whatever quality level you find comfortable.


I wanted to upgrade to a BB-ES51 so I guess I'll just take the
recommended 113mm spindle length there as well.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

On Thu, 24 Aug 2017 15:53:02 -0400, Duane
wrote:

On 24/08/2017 3:51 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-24 09:40, wrote:
On Wednesday, August 23, 2017 at 5:21:32 PM UTC-6, Doug Landau
wrote:
Oh man! I am a pretty hardcore MTB trail and gnarly road rider

What makes you say that?* Some examples, please, of what makes your
riding 'gnarly'

http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=gnarly


That definition isn't correct. Among mountain bikers at least out here
gnarly simply means what you describe below. A ride that is totally not
smooth, shakes bike and rider and one has to have reasonable skills or
will crash.


depends on where you are from there ...

if you're after a gnarly ride itsa different trip than going over a
'gnarly' section wit the intent of traveling from A-B

for me at 70 n occasionally gnarly prior, gnarly means constant
correction n balance maintaining forward speeds at moderate speed
levels...with an index for injury in failure to maintain as rock vs
grass berms ....trees....cliffs...Saturday night vehicle traffic


That pretty much sums up my ride yesterday. Nothing super spectacular
but fun. The only iffy part right now is that the BB is on its last legs
so I have to be prepared to hoof it out of there in case it seizes up.
That wouldn't be the end of the world either.


Why wouldn't you just replace the BB before it seizes up?

But a story about how to repair a BB using a rock and a rattlesnake is
simply sooo much more dramatic than a story about how you dropped your
bike off at the LBS and will pick it up tomorrow.
--
Cheers,

John B.

On Thu, 24 Aug 2017 15:47:55 -0700, Joerg
wrote:

On 2017-08-24 15:22, AMuzi wrote:
On 8/24/2017 4:01 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-24 13:43, AMuzi wrote:
On 8/24/2017 3:09 PM, Duane wrote:
On 24/08/2017 3:59 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-24 12:53, Duane wrote:
On 24/08/2017 3:51 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-24 09:40, wrote:

[...]


depends on where you are from there ...

if you're after a gnarly ride itsa different trip than
going over a
'gnarly' section wit the intent of traveling from A-B

for me at 70 n occasionally gnarly prior, gnarly means
constant
correction n balance maintaining forward speeds at
moderate speed
levels...with an index for injury in failure to
maintain as rock vs
grass berms ....trees....cliffs...Saturday night
vehicle traffic


That pretty much sums up my ride yesterday. Nothing
super spectacular
but fun. The only iffy part right now is that the BB is
on its last
legs so I have to be prepared to hoof it out of there in
case it
seizes up. That wouldn't be the end of the world either.


Why wouldn't you just replace the BB before it seizes up?


I'll have to first take it out to find out exactly what
size it is. Then put it back in until the new one gets
here (will replace with the hopefully better BB-ES51). The
MTB has to do two more trips, less than 100mi total and
it's not (yet) so bad that I'd be concerned. After that I
will remove the BB, look and order one.

I did the same with the road bike. There is was easier. On
the old adjustable kind you could rotate the cranks 180
degrees and get a (partial) 2nd life out of the BB. Now it
has a new UN-55.


I don't get it. If I need a part for my bike, I call the
LBS and ask him if it's in stock. If not, he'll order it and
I get it in 2 weeks or less. Granted, I don't live out
there where you do.

Even if you want to mail order it, why do you have to take
the BB out to find out which one it is? You can't just find
the model and get the replacement part list and order it
from that? I would guess that if you had the model of the
bike, Andrew Muzi could probably tell you which BB you
needed.

Yes, but even simpler just look at the crank model number
on the inside
of the crank arm, measure BB width (68 or 73mm for an
MTB). That's
definitive without removing anything.


The cranks are very scuffed up but looks like FC-M522, width
68mm and the thread diameter is 1.420". What I don't know is
the spindle length and those cranks will only come off with
serious torque on the puller and lots of cuss words,
something I really don't want to do twice. I have to make
sure the chain line stays the same.

The BB should be ok for another 100mi. IME they can be
nursed along with a few drops of turbine oil once they
develop play.



This is not rocket surgery. FC-M522 is all you need to know:

http://bike.shimano.com/media/techdo...9830749977.pdf


Thanks! They recommend up to 435 in-lbs on the tiny 8mm Allen wrench. Yikes.


Given that the breaking strength of a 8mm hex wrench is from about
1440 inch lbs. to 1710 inch lbs. a 435 inch lb load sounds safe
enough.
see http://www.bondhus.com/tech-library/body-10.htm


I was also surprised that they state not to grease the threads for the
plastic cup side. Wish they still supplied metal ones like they do with
the higher-priced square taper BBs.


Most plastics are considered to be "self-lubricating".

--
Cheers,

John B.

On 8/24/2017 6:58 PM, John B. wrote:
On Thu, 24 Aug 2017 15:47:55 -0700, Joerg
wrote:

On 2017-08-24 15:22, AMuzi wrote:
On 8/24/2017 4:01 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-24 13:43, AMuzi wrote:
On 8/24/2017 3:09 PM, Duane wrote:
On 24/08/2017 3:59 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-24 12:53, Duane wrote:
On 24/08/2017 3:51 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-24 09:40, wrote:

[...]


depends on where you are from there ...

if you're after a gnarly ride itsa different trip than
going over a
'gnarly' section wit the intent of traveling from A-B

for me at 70 n occasionally gnarly prior, gnarly means
constant
correction n balance maintaining forward speeds at
moderate speed
levels...with an index for injury in failure to
maintain as rock vs
grass berms ....trees....cliffs...Saturday night
vehicle traffic


That pretty much sums up my ride yesterday. Nothing
super spectacular
but fun. The only iffy part right now is that the BB is
on its last
legs so I have to be prepared to hoof it out of there in
case it
seizes up. That wouldn't be the end of the world either.


Why wouldn't you just replace the BB before it seizes up?


I'll have to first take it out to find out exactly what
size it is. Then put it back in until the new one gets
here (will replace with the hopefully better BB-ES51). The
MTB has to do two more trips, less than 100mi total and
it's not (yet) so bad that I'd be concerned. After that I
will remove the BB, look and order one.

I did the same with the road bike. There is was easier. On
the old adjustable kind you could rotate the cranks 180
degrees and get a (partial) 2nd life out of the BB. Now it
has a new UN-55.


I don't get it. If I need a part for my bike, I call the
LBS and ask him if it's in stock. If not, he'll order it and
I get it in 2 weeks or less. Granted, I don't live out
there where you do.

Even if you want to mail order it, why do you have to take
the BB out to find out which one it is? You can't just find
the model and get the replacement part list and order it
from that? I would guess that if you had the model of the
bike, Andrew Muzi could probably tell you which BB you
needed.

Yes, but even simpler just look at the crank model number
on the inside
of the crank arm, measure BB width (68 or 73mm for an
MTB). That's
definitive without removing anything.


The cranks are very scuffed up but looks like FC-M522, width
68mm and the thread diameter is 1.420". What I don't know is
the spindle length and those cranks will only come off with
serious torque on the puller and lots of cuss words,
something I really don't want to do twice. I have to make
sure the chain line stays the same.

The BB should be ok for another 100mi. IME they can be
nursed along with a few drops of turbine oil once they
develop play.



This is not rocket surgery. FC-M522 is all you need to know:

http://bike.shimano.com/media/techdo...9830749977.pdf


Thanks! They recommend up to 435 in-lbs on the tiny 8mm Allen wrench. Yikes.


Given that the breaking strength of a 8mm hex wrench is from about
1440 inch lbs. to 1710 inch lbs. a 435 inch lb load sounds safe
enough.
see http://www.bondhus.com/tech-library/body-10.htm


I was also surprised that they state not to grease the threads for the
plastic cup side. Wish they still supplied metal ones like they do with
the higher-priced square taper BBs.


Most plastics are considered to be "self-lubricating".

Indeed, as I noted recently, nylon cups are 'aesthetically
challenged' [ugly' but in practice are no trouble at all and
arguably better than metal threaded cups in every way after
some 20-odd years of service. I still think they look ugly
but I no longer dislike them.


--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On Thu, 24 Aug 2017 19:22:11 -0500, AMuzi wrote:

On 8/24/2017 6:58 PM, John B. wrote:
On Thu, 24 Aug 2017 15:47:55 -0700, Joerg
wrote:

On 2017-08-24 15:22, AMuzi wrote:
On 8/24/2017 4:01 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-24 13:43, AMuzi wrote:
On 8/24/2017 3:09 PM, Duane wrote:
On 24/08/2017 3:59 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-24 12:53, Duane wrote:
On 24/08/2017 3:51 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-24 09:40, wrote:

[...]


depends on where you are from there ...

if you're after a gnarly ride itsa different trip than
going over a
'gnarly' section wit the intent of traveling from A-B

for me at 70 n occasionally gnarly prior, gnarly means
constant
correction n balance maintaining forward speeds at
moderate speed
levels...with an index for injury in failure to
maintain as rock vs
grass berms ....trees....cliffs...Saturday night
vehicle traffic


That pretty much sums up my ride yesterday. Nothing
super spectacular
but fun. The only iffy part right now is that the BB is
on its last
legs so I have to be prepared to hoof it out of there in
case it
seizes up. That wouldn't be the end of the world either.


Why wouldn't you just replace the BB before it seizes up?


I'll have to first take it out to find out exactly what
size it is. Then put it back in until the new one gets
here (will replace with the hopefully better BB-ES51). The
MTB has to do two more trips, less than 100mi total and
it's not (yet) so bad that I'd be concerned. After that I
will remove the BB, look and order one.

I did the same with the road bike. There is was easier. On
the old adjustable kind you could rotate the cranks 180
degrees and get a (partial) 2nd life out of the BB. Now it
has a new UN-55.


I don't get it. If I need a part for my bike, I call the
LBS and ask him if it's in stock. If not, he'll order it and
I get it in 2 weeks or less. Granted, I don't live out
there where you do.

Even if you want to mail order it, why do you have to take
the BB out to find out which one it is? You can't just find
the model and get the replacement part list and order it
from that? I would guess that if you had the model of the
bike, Andrew Muzi could probably tell you which BB you
needed.

Yes, but even simpler just look at the crank model number
on the inside
of the crank arm, measure BB width (68 or 73mm for an
MTB). That's
definitive without removing anything.


The cranks are very scuffed up but looks like FC-M522, width
68mm and the thread diameter is 1.420". What I don't know is
the spindle length and those cranks will only come off with
serious torque on the puller and lots of cuss words,
something I really don't want to do twice. I have to make
sure the chain line stays the same.

The BB should be ok for another 100mi. IME they can be
nursed along with a few drops of turbine oil once they
develop play.



This is not rocket surgery. FC-M522 is all you need to know:

http://bike.shimano.com/media/techdo...9830749977.pdf


Thanks! They recommend up to 435 in-lbs on the tiny 8mm Allen wrench. Yikes.


Given that the breaking strength of a 8mm hex wrench is from about
1440 inch lbs. to 1710 inch lbs. a 435 inch lb load sounds safe
enough.
see http://www.bondhus.com/tech-library/body-10.htm


I was also surprised that they state not to grease the threads for the
plastic cup side. Wish they still supplied metal ones like they do with
the higher-priced square taper BBs.


Most plastics are considered to be "self-lubricating".

Indeed, as I noted recently, nylon cups are 'aesthetically
challenged' [ugly' but in practice are no trouble at all and
arguably better than metal threaded cups in every way after
some 20-odd years of service. I still think they look ugly
but I no longer dislike them.

But, I suppose that if one doesn't have some sort of "foot fetish",
pedophilia I believe is the proper term, one doesn't spend a lot of
time looking down :-)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Foot_fetishism
--
Cheers,

John B.

John B. wrote:
On Thu, 24 Aug 2017 19:22:11 -0500, AMuzi wrote:

On 8/24/2017 6:58 PM, John B. wrote:
On Thu, 24 Aug 2017 15:47:55 -0700, Joerg
wrote:

On 2017-08-24 15:22, AMuzi wrote:
On 8/24/2017 4:01 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-24 13:43, AMuzi wrote:
On 8/24/2017 3:09 PM, Duane wrote:
On 24/08/2017 3:59 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-24 12:53, Duane wrote:
On 24/08/2017 3:51 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-24 09:40, wrote:

[...]


depends on where you are from there ...

if you're after a gnarly ride itsa different trip than
going over a
'gnarly' section wit the intent of traveling from A-B

for me at 70 n occasionally gnarly prior, gnarly means
constant
correction n balance maintaining forward speeds at
moderate speed
levels...with an index for injury in failure to
maintain as rock vs
grass berms ....trees....cliffs...Saturday night
vehicle traffic


That pretty much sums up my ride yesterday. Nothing
super spectacular
but fun. The only iffy part right now is that the BB is
on its last
legs so I have to be prepared to hoof it out of there in
case it
seizes up. That wouldn't be the end of the world either.


Why wouldn't you just replace the BB before it seizes up?


I'll have to first take it out to find out exactly what
size it is. Then put it back in until the new one gets
here (will replace with the hopefully better BB-ES51). The
MTB has to do two more trips, less than 100mi total and
it's not (yet) so bad that I'd be concerned. After that I
will remove the BB, look and order one.

I did the same with the road bike. There is was easier. On
the old adjustable kind you could rotate the cranks 180
degrees and get a (partial) 2nd life out of the BB. Now it
has a new UN-55.


I don't get it. If I need a part for my bike, I call the
LBS and ask him if it's in stock. If not, he'll order it and
I get it in 2 weeks or less. Granted, I don't live out
there where you do.

Even if you want to mail order it, why do you have to take
the BB out to find out which one it is? You can't just find
the model and get the replacement part list and order it
from that? I would guess that if you had the model of the
bike, Andrew Muzi could probably tell you which BB you
needed.

Yes, but even simpler just look at the crank model number
on the inside
of the crank arm, measure BB width (68 or 73mm for an
MTB). That's
definitive without removing anything.


The cranks are very scuffed up but looks like FC-M522, width
68mm and the thread diameter is 1.420". What I don't know is
the spindle length and those cranks will only come off with
serious torque on the puller and lots of cuss words,
something I really don't want to do twice. I have to make
sure the chain line stays the same.

The BB should be ok for another 100mi. IME they can be
nursed along with a few drops of turbine oil once they
develop play.



This is not rocket surgery. FC-M522 is all you need to know:

http://bike.shimano.com/media/techdo...9830749977.pdf


Thanks! They recommend up to 435 in-lbs on the tiny 8mm Allen wrench. Yikes.


Given that the breaking strength of a 8mm hex wrench is from about
1440 inch lbs. to 1710 inch lbs. a 435 inch lb load sounds safe
enough.
see http://www.bondhus.com/tech-library/body-10.htm


I was also surprised that they state not to grease the threads for the
plastic cup side. Wish they still supplied metal ones like they do with
the higher-priced square taper BBs.


Most plastics are considered to be "self-lubricating".

Indeed, as I noted recently, nylon cups are 'aesthetically
challenged' [ugly' but in practice are no trouble at all and
arguably better than metal threaded cups in every way after
some 20-odd years of service. I still think they look ugly
but I no longer dislike them.

But, I suppose that if one doesn't have some sort of "foot fetish",
pedophilia I believe is the proper term, one doesn't spend a lot of
time looking down :-)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Foot_fetishism
--
Cheers,

John B.

Podophilia is the word you're looking for.

On 2017-08-24 17:22, AMuzi wrote:
On 8/24/2017 6:58 PM, John B. wrote:
On Thu, 24 Aug 2017 15:47:55 -0700, Joerg
wrote:

On 2017-08-24 15:22, AMuzi wrote:
On 8/24/2017 4:01 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-24 13:43, AMuzi wrote:
On 8/24/2017 3:09 PM, Duane wrote:
On 24/08/2017 3:59 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-24 12:53, Duane wrote:
On 24/08/2017 3:51 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-24 09:40, wrote:

[...]


depends on where you are from there ...

if you're after a gnarly ride itsa different trip than
going over a
'gnarly' section wit the intent of traveling from A-B

for me at 70 n occasionally gnarly prior, gnarly means
constant
correction n balance maintaining forward speeds at
moderate speed
levels...with an index for injury in failure to
maintain as rock vs
grass berms ....trees....cliffs...Saturday night
vehicle traffic


That pretty much sums up my ride yesterday. Nothing
super spectacular
but fun. The only iffy part right now is that the BB is
on its last
legs so I have to be prepared to hoof it out of there in
case it
seizes up. That wouldn't be the end of the world either.


Why wouldn't you just replace the BB before it seizes up?


I'll have to first take it out to find out exactly what
size it is. Then put it back in until the new one gets
here (will replace with the hopefully better BB-ES51). The
MTB has to do two more trips, less than 100mi total and
it's not (yet) so bad that I'd be concerned. After that I
will remove the BB, look and order one.

I did the same with the road bike. There is was easier. On
the old adjustable kind you could rotate the cranks 180
degrees and get a (partial) 2nd life out of the BB. Now it
has a new UN-55.


I don't get it. If I need a part for my bike, I call the
LBS and ask him if it's in stock. If not, he'll order it and
I get it in 2 weeks or less. Granted, I don't live out
there where you do.

Even if you want to mail order it, why do you have to take
the BB out to find out which one it is? You can't just find
the model and get the replacement part list and order it
from that? I would guess that if you had the model of the
bike, Andrew Muzi could probably tell you which BB you
needed.

Yes, but even simpler just look at the crank model number
on the inside
of the crank arm, measure BB width (68 or 73mm for an
MTB). That's
definitive without removing anything.


The cranks are very scuffed up but looks like FC-M522, width
68mm and the thread diameter is 1.420". What I don't know is
the spindle length and those cranks will only come off with
serious torque on the puller and lots of cuss words,
something I really don't want to do twice. I have to make
sure the chain line stays the same.

The BB should be ok for another 100mi. IME they can be
nursed along with a few drops of turbine oil once they
develop play.



This is not rocket surgery. FC-M522 is all you need to know:

http://bike.shimano.com/media/techdo...9830749977.pdf



Thanks! They recommend up to 435 in-lbs on the tiny 8mm Allen wrench.
Yikes.


Given that the breaking strength of a 8mm hex wrench is from about
1440 inch lbs. to 1710 inch lbs. a 435 inch lb load sounds safe
enough.
see http://www.bondhus.com/tech-library/body-10.htm



Amazing. I never thought it could be this high. Still I am going to wear
leather gloves for knuckle protection just in case.

The other surprising thing is a similarly high torque spec for the cups
including the plastic one where some people said it feels like it's just
about to strip in the threads. Where the wrench feels like the torque
begins to drop again despite turning more.


I was also surprised that they state not to grease the threads for the
plastic cup side. Wish they still supplied metal ones like they do with
the higher-priced square taper BBs.


Most plastics are considered to be "self-lubricating".

Indeed, as I noted recently, nylon cups are 'aesthetically challenged'
[ugly' but in practice are no trouble at all and arguably better than
metal threaded cups in every way after some 20-odd years of service. I
still think they look ugly but I no longer dislike them.


However, the recesses where the socket splines have to grab into for
loosening are a bit mashed up on the plastic cup while they look like
new on the steel cup. That's going to be fun to remove. In winter this
is where much of the mud & decomposed granite cocktail from the front
wheel splatters and then gets massaged and crunched around when cranking.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

On 2017-08-24 16:40, John B. wrote:
On Thu, 24 Aug 2017 15:53:02 -0400, Duane
wrote:

On 24/08/2017 3:51 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-24 09:40, wrote:
On Wednesday, August 23, 2017 at 5:21:32 PM UTC-6, Doug Landau
wrote:
Oh man! I am a pretty hardcore MTB trail and gnarly road rider

What makes you say that? Some examples, please, of what makes your
riding 'gnarly'

http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=gnarly


That definition isn't correct. Among mountain bikers at least out here
gnarly simply means what you describe below. A ride that is totally not
smooth, shakes bike and rider and one has to have reasonable skills or
will crash.


depends on where you are from there ...

if you're after a gnarly ride itsa different trip than going over a
'gnarly' section wit the intent of traveling from A-B

for me at 70 n occasionally gnarly prior, gnarly means constant
correction n balance maintaining forward speeds at moderate speed
levels...with an index for injury in failure to maintain as rock vs
grass berms ....trees....cliffs...Saturday night vehicle traffic


That pretty much sums up my ride yesterday. Nothing super spectacular
but fun. The only iffy part right now is that the BB is on its last legs
so I have to be prepared to hoof it out of there in case it seizes up.
That wouldn't be the end of the world either.


Why wouldn't you just replace the BB before it seizes up?

But a story about how to repair a BB using a rock and a rattlesnake is
simply sooo much more dramatic than a story about how you dropped your
bike off at the LBS and will pick it up tomorrow.


Tomorrow won't work. He is going to have to order the BB just like I
have to. Our LBS isn't that big. They have tires, tubes and brake pads
in stock but not BBs.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/