#11
|
|||
|
|||
v-brakes
John B. wrote:
Why? There are the brakes attached to the bicycle and there are you sitting there looking at them. Why for you need a poster. Because this is a wood house, the work shop must look advanced and hi-tech to compensate -- underground experts united http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573 |
Ads |
#12
|
|||
|
|||
v-brakes
On 2/25/2018 7:42 PM, John B. wrote:
On Sun, 25 Feb 2018 09:46:22 -0500, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 2/25/2018 6:01 AM, John B. wrote: The three little holes at the hub are to adjust the brake arms. Try to get the brake arms parallel. The small bolts are for fine tuning the adjustment. Start with them screwed in about half way. (Or out about half way, if you prefer Half way in vs. half way out? This could be the next r.b.tech controversy! Well, one does try to be politically correct and given all the claims of indecent conduct occurring 20 or 30 years in the past a certain level of prudence seems to be called for. After all some will certainly argue that half way in is a whole different matter then half way out :-) In the famously heroic words of Capt. Lloyd Bucher, "penetration however slight is sufficient to complete the act." Right up there with Gen McAuliffe for catchy composition under fire. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
#13
|
|||
|
|||
v-brakes
On Mon, 26 Feb 2018 03:01:01 +0100, Emanuel Berg
wrote: John B. wrote: Why? There are the brakes attached to the bicycle and there are you sitting there looking at them. Why for you need a poster. Because this is a wood house, the work shop must look advanced and hi-tech to compensate So a wall covered with Posters.... in lieu of competency? -- Cheers, John B. |
#14
|
|||
|
|||
v-brakes
"Emanuel Berg" wrote in message ... Here are a couple of pics to facilitate the discussion: http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573/bike/brake/ I've heard that 1) the long spring pin should be in the middle boss hole 2) the pads/shoes/blocks should be slightly pointing inward on the rim on the front end 3) the arms should be vertical 4) between the cable anchor bolt/cable clamp and the noodle/guide should be 39mm of cable Most brake arms seem to be curved - so which bit needs to be vertical. I frequently have a problem with no clearance between cable clamp and noodle guide. The steel rims seem to be slightly wider than the aluminium ones, so I can usually use the blocks down to their wear limits without stacking washers on the brake block studs when the noodle hits the clamp. Arms bolt upright gives optimum leverage, so worth aiming for if you can get it. Maybe set them leaning out a bit so they wear in to vertical. "toeing in" the brake blocks is to prevent brake noise - leave it and its as good as a horn/bell for dumbass pedestrians wandering about in the road. |
#15
|
|||
|
|||
v-brakes
Ian Field wrote:
"toeing in" the brake blocks is to prevent brake noise - leave it and its as good as a horn/bell for dumbass pedestrians wandering about in the road. Really? That's it? OTOH I really dislike any kind of noise from riding a bike tho. -- underground experts united http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573 |
#16
|
|||
|
|||
v-brakes
Ned Mantei wrote:
What hasn't worked for me is a special tool like this one: https://www.veloplus.ch/AlleProdukte...hevonTacx.aspx In theory that tool holds the brake shoes just where they should be, including with proper toe-in. However, I always ended up with the brake shoes at the lower/inner edge of the rim (towards the hub). This isn't good, because as the brake shoes wear and get thinner the brake will engage farther down in the rim. If it starts at the edge, later it will be partly off the rim towards the center**. So this could be a point 5 in your list. .... OK, how would you phrase that, except the tool doesn't work as intended? I thought about such a tool myself, a small clamp basically, and not just for this brake in particular, but just ended up with squeezing them together manually so far... I haven't worried at all about your point 4, and just adjust the cable so that there is minimal clearance between pads and rim. Whether more or less than 39 mm would depend on rim width, so not a constant for all bikes (and for my BR-M750 the service instructions anyhow say to have 45 mm or more). OK, great, thanks! -- underground experts united http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573 |
|
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
DuraAce 7800 brakes v. 6600 brakes | RS | Techniques | 4 | February 1st 09 05:13 AM |
Delta Brakes for sale, capy c group brakes vintage! | [email protected] | Marketplace | 0 | December 1st 08 12:47 PM |
Generic Brakes vs Dura-Ace 7700 brakes ? | RS | Techniques | 19 | June 10th 06 01:30 AM |
Might Dump Road Disc Brakes for Rim Brakes | mykal | Techniques | 24 | July 7th 05 05:48 PM |
disc brakes on front, v-brakes on rear | Per Elmsäter | Mountain Biking | 24 | October 21st 03 10:42 PM |