front wheel hub, put balls back on same side with the same cone

On Thu, 30 Jul 2015 09:17:48 -0400, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On 7/30/2015 8:29 AM, AMuzi wrote:
On 7/30/2015 1:13 AM, Phil W Lee wrote:
John B. Slocomb considered Thu, 30 Jul 2015
07:35:42 +0700 the perfect time to write:

On Wed, 29 Jul 2015 23:38:43 +0100, Phil W Lee
wrote:

David Scheidt considered Wed, 29 Jul 2015
15:28:30 +0000 (UTC) the perfect time to write:

Phil W Lee wrote:
:Frank Krygowski considered Tue, 28 Jul 2015
:11:17:52 -0400 the perfect time to write:

:On 7/28/2015 10:54 AM, Phil W Lee wrote:
:
: I was taught to overhaul bearings by my dad, longer ago than I
care to
: remember, and he was a chartered engineer.
:
:So, when did people here first start learning bike mechanics?
:
:I recall fussing around incompetently with wrenches and bikes at
about
:age 10,

:By that age, I was already helping my father rebuild the engine on
our
:car!
:By 13, I was acting as mobile mechanic for my mother, when she broke
:down with me in the car. I had a carburetor float swap down to under
:5 minutes on that (an ongoing problem meant they kept leaking and
:sinking, so we had a rotating stock of spares).

Um, getting a new one seems like a reasonable option, there. They
last years.

We did, several times.
That's how we acquired the "rotating stock" for spares.
One in use, one under the back seat with the tool tray, and one being
repaired at home.
It was some kind of problem with the design.

Cork floats? That kind of dates you, doesn't it?

Where did I mention cork?
I said they kept leaking, which implies something hollow.
They were actually stamped out of metal, with a soldered seam around
the middle.
I shudder to think what might have been causing the problem, but the
solder kept melting, so we had to dry out the float and resolder it
each time. The design made no allowance for adjustment, so using
something else wasn't an option - we'd have never got the mixture
right if we'd tried doing that.
Looking back on it with far more experience, I reckon the heating was
after the engine was stopped, and there was no longer fuel and air
flowing through the carb to cool it, but lots of heat rising by both
conduction and convection off the hot engine - and by the time the
solder melted, there was probably no fuel left in he float chamber
anyway. So not ideal, but probably not all that dangerous.
Bear in mind that the design dated from the period when on
motorcycles, the normal method of enriching the mixture for starting
was to "tickle the carb" by depressing a button on the top of the
float chamber (which forced the float below it's usual level) until
you got a handful of petrol. I'm sure lots of float chambers full of
petrol on motorcycles were lost to evaporation in those days, too.
In the end, the thought of that much heat in the float chamber of the
carburetor was what led us to replace the car.


Or just run SU constant velocity carbs without floats, arguably a better
design.

I think we should make "arguably" the official adjective of r.b.tech.
Any takers?

Or maybe "Mine is bigger than yours". :-)
--
cheers,

John B.

On Thu, 30 Jul 2015 20:42:07 +0100, Phil W Lee
wrote:

John B. Slocomb considered Thu, 30 Jul 2015
19:27:06 +0700 the perfect time to write:

On Thu, 30 Jul 2015 07:13:36 +0100, Phil W Lee
wrote:

John B. Slocomb considered Thu, 30 Jul 2015
07:35:42 +0700 the perfect time to write:

On Wed, 29 Jul 2015 23:38:43 +0100, Phil W Lee
wrote:

David Scheidt considered Wed, 29 Jul 2015
15:28:30 +0000 (UTC) the perfect time to write:

Phil W Lee wrote:
:Frank Krygowski considered Tue, 28 Jul 2015
:11:17:52 -0400 the perfect time to write:

:On 7/28/2015 10:54 AM, Phil W Lee wrote:
:
: I was taught to overhaul bearings by my dad, longer ago than I care to
: remember, and he was a chartered engineer.
:
:So, when did people here first start learning bike mechanics?
:
:I recall fussing around incompetently with wrenches and bikes at about
:age 10,

:By that age, I was already helping my father rebuild the engine on our
:car!
:By 13, I was acting as mobile mechanic for my mother, when she broke
:down with me in the car. I had a carburetor float swap down to under
:5 minutes on that (an ongoing problem meant they kept leaking and
:sinking, so we had a rotating stock of spares).

Um, getting a new one seems like a reasonable option, there. They
last years.

We did, several times.
That's how we acquired the "rotating stock" for spares.
One in use, one under the back seat with the tool tray, and one being
repaired at home.
It was some kind of problem with the design.

Cork floats? That kind of dates you, doesn't it?

Where did I mention cork?
I said they kept leaking, which implies something hollow.
They were actually stamped out of metal, with a soldered seam around
the middle.

You didn't say but I spent time "repairing" carb floats in my younger
days - some even on British cars - and never had a problem with them
failing.

This wasn't a British car - it was Russian.


Having worked on British cars that dated back into the 1950's I can
only assume that the Russian cars were higher tech :-)

The main problem was that one didn't want to apply too much
solder for fear that the float would be too heavy and richen up the
mixture.

Yeah, you have to take off the same weight as you add.
Weighing the float carefully before and after is a sensible
precaution.

I shudder to think what might have been causing the problem, but the
solder kept melting, so we had to dry out the float and resolder it
each time. The design made no allowance for adjustment, so using
something else wasn't an option - we'd have never got the mixture
right if we'd tried doing that.
Looking back on it with far more experience, I reckon the heating was
after the engine was stopped, and there was no longer fuel and air
flowing through the carb to cool it, but lots of heat rising by both
conduction and convection off the hot engine - and by the time the
solder melted, there was probably no fuel left in he float chamber
anyway. So not ideal, but probably not all that dangerous.
Bear in mind that the design dated from the period when on
motorcycles, the normal method of enriching the mixture for starting
was to "tickle the carb" by depressing a button on the top of the
float chamber (which forced the float below it's usual level) until
you got a handful of petrol. I'm sure lots of float chambers full of
petrol on motorcycles were lost to evaporation in those days, too.
In the end, the thought of that much heat in the float chamber of the
carburetor was what led us to replace the carsome had a choke also

To be honest I can't believe that the carb got so hot as to melt the
solder.

I wouldn't have if I hadn't seen it.

You are talking about 300+ F temperatures and assuming that
this was an older car with an unpressurized cooling system the engine
ran at less than boiling temperatures. Were did all this high
temperature come from?

The cooling system was pressurised, but still only cools the top end
of the engine.


Because, of course, that is where the heat comes from :-)
--
cheers,

John B.

On 7/30/2015 7:43 PM, John B. Slocomb wrote:
On Thu, 30 Jul 2015 07:29:27 -0500, AMuzi wrote:

On 7/30/2015 1:13 AM, Phil W Lee wrote:
John B. Slocomb considered Thu, 30 Jul 2015
07:35:42 +0700 the perfect time to write:

On Wed, 29 Jul 2015 23:38:43 +0100, Phil W Lee
wrote:

David Scheidt considered Wed, 29 Jul 2015
15:28:30 +0000 (UTC) the perfect time to write:

Phil W Lee wrote:
:Frank Krygowski considered Tue, 28 Jul 2015
:11:17:52 -0400 the perfect time to write:

:On 7/28/2015 10:54 AM, Phil W Lee wrote:
:
: I was taught to overhaul bearings by my dad, longer ago than I care to
: remember, and he was a chartered engineer.
:
:So, when did people here first start learning bike mechanics?
:
:I recall fussing around incompetently with wrenches and bikes at about
:age 10,

:By that age, I was already helping my father rebuild the engine on our
:car!
:By 13, I was acting as mobile mechanic for my mother, when she broke
:down with me in the car. I had a carburetor float swap down to under
:5 minutes on that (an ongoing problem meant they kept leaking and
:sinking, so we had a rotating stock of spares).

Um, getting a new one seems like a reasonable option, there. They
last years.

We did, several times.
That's how we acquired the "rotating stock" for spares.
One in use, one under the back seat with the tool tray, and one being
repaired at home.
It was some kind of problem with the design.

Cork floats? That kind of dates you, doesn't it?

Where did I mention cork?
I said they kept leaking, which implies something hollow.
They were actually stamped out of metal, with a soldered seam around
the middle.
I shudder to think what might have been causing the problem, but the
solder kept melting, so we had to dry out the float and resolder it
each time. The design made no allowance for adjustment, so using
something else wasn't an option - we'd have never got the mixture
right if we'd tried doing that.
Looking back on it with far more experience, I reckon the heating was
after the engine was stopped, and there was no longer fuel and air
flowing through the carb to cool it, but lots of heat rising by both
conduction and convection off the hot engine - and by the time the
solder melted, there was probably no fuel left in he float chamber
anyway. So not ideal, but probably not all that dangerous.
Bear in mind that the design dated from the period when on
motorcycles, the normal method of enriching the mixture for starting
was to "tickle the carb" by depressing a button on the top of the
float chamber (which forced the float below it's usual level) until
you got a handful of petrol. I'm sure lots of float chambers full of
petrol on motorcycles were lost to evaporation in those days, too.
In the end, the thought of that much heat in the float chamber of the
carburetor was what led us to replace the car.


Or just run SU constant velocity carbs without floats,
arguably a better design.

I'm anti SU also :-) I had an MG-B with two SU's and found that they
needed adjusting and "balancing" on an almost a weekly basis.
--
cheers,

John B.


I too was frustrated with frequent Uni-Syn etc on my MGB. So
I bought a book, rebuilt mine with a moderate amount of
modification and polish, bought extra sets of taper needles
and achieved a very nice result such that I can usually set
a British twin carb setup right. They are different from a
Holley or a Weber but can be made to run well, in some
setups very well, with impressive snappy response which is I
think their best feature.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On Fri, 31 Jul 2015 07:06:14 -0500, AMuzi wrote:

On 7/30/2015 7:43 PM, John B. Slocomb wrote:
On Thu, 30 Jul 2015 07:29:27 -0500, AMuzi wrote:

On 7/30/2015 1:13 AM, Phil W Lee wrote:
John B. Slocomb considered Thu, 30 Jul 2015
07:35:42 +0700 the perfect time to write:

On Wed, 29 Jul 2015 23:38:43 +0100, Phil W Lee
wrote:

David Scheidt considered Wed, 29 Jul 2015
15:28:30 +0000 (UTC) the perfect time to write:

Phil W Lee wrote:
:Frank Krygowski considered Tue, 28 Jul 2015
:11:17:52 -0400 the perfect time to write:

:On 7/28/2015 10:54 AM, Phil W Lee wrote:
:
: I was taught to overhaul bearings by my dad, longer ago than I care to
: remember, and he was a chartered engineer.
:
:So, when did people here first start learning bike mechanics?
:
:I recall fussing around incompetently with wrenches and bikes at about
:age 10,

:By that age, I was already helping my father rebuild the engine on our
:car!
:By 13, I was acting as mobile mechanic for my mother, when she broke
:down with me in the car. I had a carburetor float swap down to under
:5 minutes on that (an ongoing problem meant they kept leaking and
:sinking, so we had a rotating stock of spares).

Um, getting a new one seems like a reasonable option, there. They
last years.

We did, several times.
That's how we acquired the "rotating stock" for spares.
One in use, one under the back seat with the tool tray, and one being
repaired at home.
It was some kind of problem with the design.

Cork floats? That kind of dates you, doesn't it?

Where did I mention cork?
I said they kept leaking, which implies something hollow.
They were actually stamped out of metal, with a soldered seam around
the middle.
I shudder to think what might have been causing the problem, but the
solder kept melting, so we had to dry out the float and resolder it
each time. The design made no allowance for adjustment, so using
something else wasn't an option - we'd have never got the mixture
right if we'd tried doing that.
Looking back on it with far more experience, I reckon the heating was
after the engine was stopped, and there was no longer fuel and air
flowing through the carb to cool it, but lots of heat rising by both
conduction and convection off the hot engine - and by the time the
solder melted, there was probably no fuel left in he float chamber
anyway. So not ideal, but probably not all that dangerous.
Bear in mind that the design dated from the period when on
motorcycles, the normal method of enriching the mixture for starting
was to "tickle the carb" by depressing a button on the top of the
float chamber (which forced the float below it's usual level) until
you got a handful of petrol. I'm sure lots of float chambers full of
petrol on motorcycles were lost to evaporation in those days, too.
In the end, the thought of that much heat in the float chamber of the
carburetor was what led us to replace the car.


Or just run SU constant velocity carbs without floats,
arguably a better design.

I'm anti SU also :-) I had an MG-B with two SU's and found that they
needed adjusting and "balancing" on an almost a weekly basis.
--
cheers,

John B.


I too was frustrated with frequent Uni-Syn etc on my MGB. So
I bought a book, rebuilt mine with a moderate amount of
modification and polish, bought extra sets of taper needles
and achieved a very nice result such that I can usually set
a British twin carb setup right. They are different from a
Holley or a Weber but can be made to run well, in some
setups very well, with impressive snappy response which is I
think their best feature.

I didn't have a problem with how they ran, rather that almost a weekly
tuning and sync check seemed to be required to keep them running well.
I was in Japan at the time and information about the carbs was scarce,
to say the least. For example, the viscosity of the oil in them had a
rather large effect on how they accelerated and either too high or too
low viscosity had a big effect, but at the time the only information I
had was "check the oil level and replenish if necessary" :-)
--
cheers,

John B.