Trek 5500 reviews?

Hello Mike. Thanks for you input. You indicate surprise that I prefer the
ride of a steel frame. You're spot-on that steel has more flex to it than
aluminum. And that's why the aluminum-ride is less "forgiving"... every
road bump and dip gets amplified. I'm using a Brooks B-17 saddle on my
Bridgestone cromo and have no complaints about comfort. A long trip for me
would be 10-12 miles, with some moderate hill climbing.... (actually, there
is one "killer-hill" that I attempt to climb). The aluminum bike has heavy
suspension forks that are necessary to cushion the stiffness of the aluminum
ride. I don't find suspension forks necessary w/ a cromo. Of course, I
would prefer titanium but the price is prohibiting in my case. I do like
suspension in the seatpost, however. Do you (or anyone) know if there is a
significant weight difference between that and a non-suspension post?

Thanks for your recommendation, Mike. Unfortunately the Trek 7300FX has an
aluminum frame.... darn!



Original Message:
In a larger-sized frame, I'm rather surprised you prefer the "ride" of a
steel frame. Why? Because, due to tubing diameters used on steel frames,
larger-sized bikes tend to be a bit flexy compared to aluminum. A
manufacturer *could* get around this, by using larger-diameter tubing, but
they generally don't due to both the expense of using a special tubeset
and
the added weight. And, as has been often pointed out here, if you want a
softer ride, just go to a bigger tire.

At your price range (less than $500), you could start with a bike like the
TREK 7300FX, make whatever changes you need to, and probably still be
within
your price range.

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReactionBicycles.com


"Glenn Civello" wrote in message
...
Hi all. My first post here. I'm looking for some good advice. I'm 6"
2"
and nearly 300 lbs... but plan on losing about 40 lbs. I have two
bikes.
One is a 1993 Bridgestone G6 (26" wheels") and the other is a
Specialized
("Limited") Expedition (26" wheels.) I use the Bridgestone for
commuting
and the Expedition for "joy-rides." The problem with the Expedition is
that
due, to the heavy front suspension forks, the bike has no "zip" to it.
So
I'm considering a 3rd bike. My Bridgestone has a chromaly frame, w/o
suspension forks and I actually prefer the ride -- for long distances
at
least-- to my Specialized. IMO, the aluminum frame of the Expedition
makes
for a less smooth ride than could be attained if it were chromoly. But
where can one find new bicycle these days w/ a CroMo frame that's in the
price range I looking at?

What I'm looking for is a bicyle that has a CroMo frame, is $500, w/
NO
front suspension fork (but HAS seat-post suspension) has 700cm wheels,
SRAM
grip shifters, and has handlebars that will allow me to ride in an
upright
position (a must, due to back problems). The bike would be used on a
12
mile bike path and occasionally on the street. By the way, I'm
wondering
if a 700cm wheel frame is going to be a problem because of my weight? -
( I
won't be pulling and wheelies or jumping curves)

I know that Jamis once made an Aragon (at $300) that had a CroMo frame
but
it has been discontinued in favor of aluminum. Bottom line is I simply
prefer the ride of ChoMo and I'm looking for a bike that different from
what
I already have. Preferably something with some zip to it. Is what I'm
looking for impossibe, in a new bike, without having it done "custom?"
Sure
would apprecitate some input.

Thanks
Glenn

On Wed, 23 Jun 2004 08:21:03 -0400, "Glenn Civello"
wrote:

Hello Mike. Thanks for you input. You indicate surprise that I prefer the
ride of a steel frame. You're spot-on that steel has more flex to it than
aluminum.

I think what Mr. J was getting at was the propensity of the frame to
flex under heavy pedaling loads. I'm a heavy guy, and when I used to
ride my old (1980s) Raleigh, I could feel the bike bend a bit as I
stood up to pedal.....


And that's why the aluminum-ride is less "forgiving"... every
road bump and dip gets amplified. I'm using a Brooks B-17 saddle on my
Bridgestone cromo and have no complaints about comfort. A long trip for me
would be 10-12 miles, with some moderate hill climbing.... (actually, there
is one "killer-hill" that I attempt to climb). The aluminum bike has heavy
suspension forks that are necessary to cushion the stiffness of the aluminum
ride. I don't find suspension forks necessary w/ a cromo. Of course, I
would prefer titanium but the price is prohibiting in my case. I do like
suspension in the seatpost, however. Do you (or anyone) know if there is a
significant weight difference between that and a non-suspension post?

There is. You're adding the complication of all the necessary springs
and damping to what should otherwise be a fairly simple part.

Why not go for something totally different? 700C wheels, drop
handlebars, no suspension. You know, a road bike. Or, to be more
precise, a tourer. If you must have CrMo steel, the Jamis Aurora will
fit the bill nicely. I picked mine up for US$450, on clearance; they
usually go for anywhere between US$500-600. If the price is right, go
with it.

Otherwise, go with a road bike, but insist on real wheels--NOT
stupidlite ones.

Be sure the bicycle fits, don't be bullied into riding with the bars
too low & saddle too high, remember that the drops allow for
*multiple* hand positions with easy access to the brakes--and then go
for a ride.

-Luigi





Thanks for your recommendation, Mike. Unfortunately the Trek 7300FX has an
aluminum frame.... darn!

Why not ride the bike, and then decide? In the end, it's the bike
that you're riding, not someone else's opinion.

In article , luigi12081
@cox.net says...
On Wed, 23 Jun 2004 08:21:03 -0400, "Glenn Civello"
wrote:

Hello Mike. Thanks for you input. You indicate surprise that I prefer the
ride of a steel frame. You're spot-on that steel has more flex to it than
aluminum.

I think what Mr. J was getting at was the propensity of the frame to
flex under heavy pedaling loads. I'm a heavy guy, and when I used to
ride my old (1980s) Raleigh, I could feel the bike bend a bit as I
stood up to pedal.....

My old Schwinn LeTour from 1979 did the same, but my new (last year)
Fuji Touring doesn't flex at all under hard pedaling.


....

Why not go for something totally different? 700C wheels, drop
handlebars, no suspension. You know, a road bike. Or, to be more
precise, a tourer. If you must have CrMo steel, the Jamis Aurora will
fit the bill nicely. I picked mine up for US$450, on clearance; they
usually go for anywhere between US$500-600. If the price is right, go
with it.

Very good suggestion.


Otherwise, go with a road bike, but insist on real wheels--NOT
stupidlite ones.

Be sure the bicycle fits, don't be bullied into riding with the bars
too low & saddle too high, remember that the drops allow for

It's even ok to put the bars *above* the saddle level if that's what
feels best!

*multiple* hand positions with easy access to the brakes--and then go
for a ride.


--
Remove the ns_ from if replying by e-mail (but keep posts in the
newsgroups if possible).

On Wed, 23 Jun 2004 09:41:34 -0400, Luigi de Guzman wrote:

Or, to be more precise, a tourer. If you must have CrMo steel, the Jamis
Aurora will fit the bill nicely. I picked mine up for US$450, on
clearance; they usually go for anywhere between US$500-600. If the
price is right, go with it.

Mine was $730 a few weeks ago. Still a good price and a fabulous bike,
though, IMO.

Reid

Thank you Luigi. It's good to find out that suspension seatposts add
significant weight to a bike. Shortly after I bought my Specialized
Expedition the seatpost wiggled from side to side. Because it was still
under warrantee, my LBS installed a non-suspension post in its place. This
made my ride even more stiff... so I wanted it replaced with a suspension
post. They ordered it, so by next week I should be riding w/ seat-post
suspension. Again, my Bridgestone doesn't have suspension in either the
forks or the seatpost; I suppose that's why its lighter in spite of having a
steel frame.

Gosh, that Jamis Aurora sure looks sweet... but with the price and the low
handle bars I wouldn't be able to manage. I slipped a disc in '86 and since
then reaching and leaning over is uncomfortable. Before that I had no
problem riding a roadbike...
=======



Original message:
snip Do you (or anyone) know if there is a significant weight
difference between that and a non-suspension post?


There is. You're adding the complication of all the necessary springs
and damping to what should otherwise be a fairly simple part.

Why not go for something totally different? 700C wheels, drop
handlebars, no suspension. You know, a road bike. Or, to be more
precise, a tourer. If you must have CrMo steel, the Jamis Aurora will
fit the bill nicely. I picked mine up for US$450, on clearance; they
usually go for anywhere between US$500-600. If the price is right, go
with it.

Otherwise, go with a road bike, but insist on real wheels--NOT
stupidlite ones.

Be sure the bicycle fits, don't be bullied into riding with the bars
too low & saddle too high, remember that the drops allow for
*multiple* hand positions with easy access to the brakes--and then go
for a ride.

-Luigi

The Jamis Aurora is a terrific looking, but I'll have to pass on it for the
reasons I explained, in my last post, to Luigi. However, you guys got me to
thinking about Jamis' other bikes... I see that there Coda Sport and Elite
use cromo frames and when the '05's come out I may be able to get it at a
good price. Anybody have any experience with either of these bikes?

http://tinyurl.com/343pk

http://tinyurl.com/2gjoq

I'd have to swap-out the handle bars w/ something that has a comfortable
rise to them.


"Reid Priedhorsky" wrote in message
news
On Wed, 23 Jun 2004 09:41:34 -0400, Luigi de Guzman wrote:

Or, to be more precise, a tourer. If you must have CrMo steel, the Jamis
Aurora will fit the bill nicely. I picked mine up for US$450, on
clearance; they usually go for anywhere between US$500-600. If the
price is right, go with it.

Mine was $730 a few weeks ago. Still a good price and a fabulous bike,
though, IMO.

Reid

On Wed, 23 Jun 2004 11:02:36 -0400, "Glenn Civello"
wrote:

Thank you Luigi. It's good to find out that suspension seatposts add
significant weight to a bike. Shortly after I bought my Specialized
Expedition the seatpost wiggled from side to side. Because it was still
under warrantee, my LBS installed a non-suspension post in its place. This
made my ride even more stiff... so I wanted it replaced with a suspension
post. They ordered it, so by next week I should be riding w/ seat-post
suspension. Again, my Bridgestone doesn't have suspension in either the
forks or the seatpost; I suppose that's why its lighter in spite of having a
steel frame.

Gosh, that Jamis Aurora sure looks sweet... but with the price and the low
handle bars I wouldn't be able to manage. I slipped a disc in '86 and since
then reaching and leaning over is uncomfortable. Before that I had no
problem riding a roadbike...


My handlebars are at about the same level as my saddle. I don't lean
over much, if at all, unless I'm riding deep in the drops.

The marketing types insist that anything with dropped bars must be
shown set up for Miguel Indurain, with super-low handlebars. This is
crap; handlebar height is something that you determine for yourself.
After all, it isn't Big Mig riding your bike, but you.

A decent shop should be able to accomodate your desire to have the
handlebars at around the same level as your saddle.

As far as price: I admit that I was stupendously lucky on mine, but
bargains can be had on similar bikes: REI Novara Randonee, Fuji
Touring, for instance.

=-Luigi


=======



Original message:
snip Do you (or anyone) know if there is a significant weight
difference between that and a non-suspension post?


There is. You're adding the complication of all the necessary springs
and damping to what should otherwise be a fairly simple part.

Why not go for something totally different? 700C wheels, drop
handlebars, no suspension. You know, a road bike. Or, to be more
precise, a tourer. If you must have CrMo steel, the Jamis Aurora will
fit the bill nicely. I picked mine up for US$450, on clearance; they
usually go for anywhere between US$500-600. If the price is right, go
with it.

Otherwise, go with a road bike, but insist on real wheels--NOT
stupidlite ones.

Be sure the bicycle fits, don't be bullied into riding with the bars
too low & saddle too high, remember that the drops allow for
*multiple* hand positions with easy access to the brakes--and then go
for a ride.

-Luigi

Gosh, that Jamis Aurora sure looks sweet... but with the price and the
low handle bars I wouldn't be able to manage. I slipped a disc in '86 and
since
then reaching and leaning over is uncomfortable. Before that I had no
problem riding a roadbike...

My handlebars are at about the same level as my saddle. I don't lean
over much, if at all, unless I'm riding deep in the drops.

The marketing types insist that anything with dropped bars must be
shown set up for Miguel Indurain, with super-low handlebars. This is
crap; handlebar height is something that you determine for yourself.
After all, it isn't Big Mig riding your bike, but you.

I hear you Luigi but w/o trying out the bike I wouldn't take the chance.
The one bike shop that has the Jamis line won't order it unless I buy it.
He's got a Coda Elite in stock that looks good to me, but its the frame is
too small. He's also carry's the Giant line but all are aluminum frames.
Other bike shops in the area carry Trek, Kona, and Fuji, and Bianche (sp?)
I'm pretty sure a Coda Elite or Coda Sport would work out well, if I were
able to change the flat handlebars over to high-rise adjustable stem. I
don't know if that's possible though (I forgot to ask the bike salesman)
Also there a used bicycle shop in the area that has a pretty good
selection... unfortunately, most of the frames are 19 inches or less. I
need a 21"... 22" would be better. I visit that shop regularly, figuring
that if I can something with a good frame I could upgrade the rest of the
parts. No luck so far.... I've been looking since April. Thanks for all
your help!






A decent shop should be able to accomodate your desire to have the
handlebars at around the same level as your saddle.

As far as price: I admit that I was stupendously lucky on mine, but
bargains can be had on similar bikes: REI Novara Randonee, Fuji
Touring, for instance.

=-Luigi


=======



Original message:
snip Do you (or anyone) know if there is a significant weight
difference between that and a non-suspension post?


There is. You're adding the complication of all the necessary springs
and damping to what should otherwise be a fairly simple part.

Why not go for something totally different? 700C wheels, drop
handlebars, no suspension. You know, a road bike. Or, to be more
precise, a tourer. If you must have CrMo steel, the Jamis Aurora will
fit the bill nicely. I picked mine up for US$450, on clearance; they
usually go for anywhere between US$500-600. If the price is right, go
with it.

Otherwise, go with a road bike, but insist on real wheels--NOT
stupidlite ones.

Be sure the bicycle fits, don't be bullied into riding with the bars
too low & saddle too high, remember that the drops allow for
*multiple* hand positions with easy access to the brakes--and then go
for a ride.

-Luigi