the Shimano 10sp/9sp alloy freehub problem again - a solution!

Bleve wrote:
Our local American Classic rep came in to the LBS on Wednesday, and
showed us some new lightweight clinchers, which in itself was of no
particular interest.

*but*

He also showed us some shims for their 9sp alloy freehub to make it
work properly with 10sp casettes to avoid dig in like this :

http://www.aboc.com.au/images/galler.../DSCF6994.html

We pressed him to see if AC would sell the shims as spare parts, and
he'll get back to us on it. But, it may be a hack to get around the
current problem with 10sp Ultegra & Dura-Ace cassettes on 9sp alloy
freehubs.

This is what Easton have to say about it (after I got myself a pair of
Orion II's and asked them about 10sp issues) :

Carl,

Excellent information. You are correct that Shimano 9spd bodies
will have some "gouging" when running a 10spd cassette. We have see
this (not to the extent you are having with your Bontrager) in the past
but never so sever that it requires more that a light tap with a
plastic mallet to free the cassette. Lightly greasing the cassette body
will help reduce wear.

We do plan on making a 10spd only body but that is still a long way
off. The reason American classic make that "shim" is because they don't
have the "thick" splines on their shimano bodies. They try to save
weight by making each spline the same width as the index spline
(smallest spline), this makes it possible to tear all the way through
the American Classic body.

I hope this information helps. Please feel free to ask any more
question.

Adam Marriott

Easton Sports Inc.

BrettS wrote:
Bleve wrote:


This is what Easton have to say about it (after I got myself a pair of
Orion II's and asked them about 10sp issues) :

Carl,

Excellent information. You are correct that Shimano 9spd bodies
will have some "gouging" when running a 10spd cassette. We have see
this (not to the extent you are having with your Bontrager) in the past
but never so sever that it requires more that a light tap with a
plastic mallet to free the cassette. Lightly greasing the cassette body
will help reduce wear.

We do plan on making a 10spd only body but that is still a long way
off. The reason American classic make that "shim" is because they don't
have the "thick" splines on their shimano bodies. They try to save
weight by making each spline the same width as the index spline
(smallest spline), this makes it possible to tear all the way through
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
the American Classic body.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Holy crap! That would be one exciting sprint when that happened!

One vendor bagging another, I suspect it's something of an
overstatement

Bleve wrote:
Our local American Classic rep came in to the LBS on Wednesday, and
showed us some new lightweight clinchers, which in itself was of no
particular interest.

*but*

He also showed us some shims for their 9sp alloy freehub to make it
work properly with 10sp casettes to avoid dig in like this :

http://www.aboc.com.au/images/galler.../DSCF6994.html

We pressed him to see if AC would sell the shims as spare parts, and
he'll get back to us on it. But, it may be a hack to get around the
current problem with 10sp Ultegra & Dura-Ace cassettes on 9sp alloy
freehubs.

OR just stay away from these crappy hubs and wheels...

Bleve wrote:
jim beam wrote:
Bleve wrote:
Our local American Classic rep came in to the LBS on Wednesday, and
showed us some new lightweight clinchers, which in itself was of no
particular interest.

*but*

He also showed us some shims for their 9sp alloy freehub to make it
work properly with 10sp casettes to avoid dig in like this :

http://www.aboc.com.au/images/galler.../DSCF6994.html

We pressed him to see if AC would sell the shims as spare parts, and
he'll get back to us on it. But, it may be a hack to get around the
current problem with 10sp Ultegra & Dura-Ace cassettes on 9sp alloy
freehubs.

a shim won't do it - it doesn't bear the torque load.

A steel shim might. I'm going to see if it'll work on my bontrager
wheel before I risk it on my good wheels

Or just make a steel freehub body???

Bleve wrote:
jim beam wrote:
Bleve wrote:
Our local American Classic rep came in to the LBS on Wednesday, and
showed us some new lightweight clinchers, which in itself was of no
particular interest.

*but*

He also showed us some shims for their 9sp alloy freehub to make it
work properly with 10sp casettes to avoid dig in like this :

http://www.aboc.com.au/images/galler.../DSCF6994.html

We pressed him to see if AC would sell the shims as spare parts, and
he'll get back to us on it. But, it may be a hack to get around the
current problem with 10sp Ultegra & Dura-Ace cassettes on 9sp alloy
freehubs.

a shim won't do it - it doesn't bear the torque load.

A steel shim might. I'm going to see if it'll work on my bontrager
wheel before I risk it on my good wheels

Why not try it on a set of wheels based around a shimano or Campag or
even DT hubset, instead of wheels outta boxes..like AC, Bontrager,
etc.....