Mavic Open Pro, Open Pro CD, Ceramic

What is the difference, except for price, in the 3 versions of the
venerable Mavic Open Pro rim? And are the higher priced version
money well spent? note: I rarely ride in the rain.

RS wrote:
What is the difference, except for price, in the 3 versions of the
venerable Mavic Open Pro rim? And are the higher priced version
money well spent? note: I rarely ride in the rain.

what's your objective if you don't ride in the rain? ceramic rims are
impervious to the rain-road grit. cd rims are similar, but not as hard
or long lasting. ordinary open pros are not very resistant to grit at all.

In article ,
says...


RS wrote:
What is the difference, except for price, in the 3 versions of the
venerable Mavic Open Pro rim? And are the higher priced version
money well spent? note: I rarely ride in the rain.

what's your objective if you don't ride in the rain? ceramic rims are
impervious to the rain-road grit. cd rims are similar, but not as hard
or long lasting. ordinary open pros are not very resistant to grit at all.
I was asking as to any other differences in construction, finish, longevity
and intended use. Its why I'm asking, I don't know.

On May 11, 11:36 pm, RS wrote:
In article ,
says...

RS wrote:
What is the difference, except for price, in the 3 versions of the
venerable Mavic Open Pro rim? And are the higher priced version
money well spent? note: I rarely ride in the rain.

what's your objective if you don't ride in the rain? ceramic rims are
impervious to the rain-road grit. cd rims are similar, but not as hard
or long lasting. ordinary open pros are not very resistant to grit at all.

I was asking as to any other differences in construction, finish, longevity
and intended use. Its why I'm asking, I don't know.

They all start as a basic OpenPro rim, then dipped for hard
anodizing(tend to crack around eyelets, since the eyelets are
installed after the 'dipping', or have a ceramic strip glued onto the
side wall..but construction of all the same. use the basic silver or
black..not the CD, IMO.

Qui si parla Campagnolo wrote:
On May 11, 11:36 pm, RS wrote:
In article ,
says...

RS wrote:
What is the difference, except for price, in the 3 versions of the
venerable Mavic Open Pro rim? And are the higher priced version
money well spent? note: I rarely ride in the rain.
what's your objective if you don't ride in the rain? ceramic rims are
impervious to the rain-road grit. cd rims are similar, but not as hard
or long lasting. ordinary open pros are not very resistant to grit at all.
I was asking as to any other differences in construction, finish, longevity
and intended use. Its why I'm asking, I don't know.

They all start as a basic OpenPro rim, then dipped for hard
anodizing(tend to crack around eyelets,

all open pros are anodized - even the silver. if you mean the cd's
crack, i've never seen it on mine - and i have good mileage on them.
they're built to manufacturer spec spoke tension. the only people here
who report eyelet problems with eyelet cracking do not have it exclusive
to cd's and do not build with tensiometers.

since the eyelets are
installed after the 'dipping', or have a ceramic strip glued

glued??? plasma arc spray!!! high tech. expensive.

onto the
side wall..but construction of all the same. use the basic silver or
black..not the CD, IMO.

basic, sure. no point spending more if not riding in the rain.

RS wrote:
In article ,
says...

RS wrote:
What is the difference, except for price, in the 3 versions of the
venerable Mavic Open Pro rim? And are the higher priced version
money well spent? note: I rarely ride in the rain.

what's your objective if you don't ride in the rain? ceramic rims are
impervious to the rain-road grit. cd rims are similar, but not as hard
or long lasting. ordinary open pros are not very resistant to grit at all.
I was asking as to any other differences in construction, finish, longevity
and intended use. Its why I'm asking, I don't know.

if you're not riding in the rain, a standard rim is fine. there's no
other differences in construction other than the finishes and their
function.

On May 12, 6:35 am, jim beam wrote:
Qui si parla Campagnolo wrote:



On May 11, 11:36 pm, RS wrote:
In article ,
says...

RS wrote:
What is the difference, except for price, in the 3 versions of the
venerable Mavic Open Pro rim? And are the higher priced version
money well spent? note: I rarely ride in the rain.
what's your objective if you don't ride in the rain? ceramic rims are
impervious to the rain-road grit. cd rims are similar, but not as hard
or long lasting. ordinary open pros are not very resistant to grit at all.
I was asking as to any other differences in construction, finish, longevity
and intended use. Its why I'm asking, I don't know.

They all start as a basic OpenPro rim, then dipped for hard
anodizing(tend to crack around eyelets,

all open pros are anodized - even the silver. if you mean the cd's
crack, i've never seen it on mine - and i have good mileage on them.
they're built to manufacturer spec spoke tension. the only people here
who report eyelet problems with eyelet cracking do not have it exclusive
to cd's and do not build with tensiometers.

Google MA-40, CD, vs MA-40 silver. 'Anodizing' for color is not the
same thing as 'hard anodizing'. 2 completely different
processes.Having eyelets installed after hard anodizing, causing small
cracks that often lead to eyelets pulling out is common knowledge
among wheelbuilders..Jobst??

since the eyelets are
installed after the 'dipping', or have a ceramic strip glued

glued??? plasma arc spray!!! high tech. expensive.
whatever-glued, plasma arc sprayed...not welded.

onto the
side wall..but construction of all the same. use the basic silver or
black..not the CD, IMO.

basic, sure. no point spending more if not riding in the rain.

Qui si parla Campagnolo wrote:
On May 12, 6:35 am, jim beam wrote:
Qui si parla Campagnolo wrote:



On May 11, 11:36 pm, RS wrote:
In article ,
says...
RS wrote:
What is the difference, except for price, in the 3 versions of the
venerable Mavic Open Pro rim? And are the higher priced version
money well spent? note: I rarely ride in the rain.
what's your objective if you don't ride in the rain? ceramic rims are
impervious to the rain-road grit. cd rims are similar, but not as hard
or long lasting. ordinary open pros are not very resistant to grit at all.
I was asking as to any other differences in construction, finish, longevity
and intended use. Its why I'm asking, I don't know.
They all start as a basic OpenPro rim, then dipped for hard
anodizing(tend to crack around eyelets,
all open pros are anodized - even the silver. if you mean the cd's
crack, i've never seen it on mine - and i have good mileage on them.
they're built to manufacturer spec spoke tension. the only people here
who report eyelet problems with eyelet cracking do not have it exclusive
to cd's and do not build with tensiometers.

Google MA-40, CD, vs MA-40 silver.

yeah, and it's all unsubstantiated jobstian bull****. you should know
better than that by now. there is 100% correlation between those that
say they have cracking and those that don't use manufacturer spoke
tension, regardless of rim finish.

'Anodizing' for color is not the
same thing as 'hard anodizing'. 2 completely different
processes.Having eyelets installed after hard anodizing, causing small
cracks that often lead to eyelets pulling out is common knowledge
among wheelbuilders..Jobst??

yeah. jobst is the problem on this one. jobst thinks anodizing causes
cracking because he did a dye penetrant test. there is no way a dye
penetrant test determines whether anodizing has anything to do with it -
all it does is identify presence, not cause. rim cracking is cause by
spoke tension "as high as the rim can bear" - pure and simple.

since the eyelets are
installed after the 'dipping', or have a ceramic strip glued
glued??? plasma arc spray!!! high tech. expensive.
whatever-glued, plasma arc sprayed...not welded.

whatever??? dude, there's a /world/ of freakin' difference between
plasma arc deposition and glue!!! that's like saying "whatever" to the
difference in properties between rubber and glass!!!

onto the
side wall..but construction of all the same. use the basic silver or
black..not the CD, IMO.
basic, sure. no point spending more if not riding in the rain.

On May 12, 1:24 pm, jim beam wrote:

yeah, and it's all unsubstantiated jobstian bull****. you should know
better than that by now. there is 100% correlation between those that
say they have cracking and those that don't use manufacturer spoke
tension, regardless of rim finish.

Erm, with the previous generation's MA3, the correlation between
cracking and anodizing is well documented. That's not an Open Pro of
course. Got one hanging in the garage that I should get around to
throwing away...

Velocity and Alex rims are the way to go. Cheaper and stronger.
Unless you're rerimming and need the same ERD of course.

landotter wrote:
On May 12, 1:24 pm, jim beam wrote:

yeah, and it's all unsubstantiated jobstian bull****. you should know
better than that by now. there is 100% correlation between those that
say they have cracking and those that don't use manufacturer spoke
tension, regardless of rim finish.

Erm, with the previous generation's MA3, the correlation between
cracking and anodizing is well documented.

no it's not because there is _no_ unanodized ma3 available for
comparison! an ma3 may crack, but that cannot simply be attributed to
anodizing.

if "mr. condemn a whole industry with underinformed supposition" had
bothered to do /any/ homework on this subject at all, he'd have looked
into anisotropy and extrusion flaws.

That's not an Open Pro of
course. Got one hanging in the garage that I should get around to
throwing away...

Velocity and Alex rims are the way to go. Cheaper and stronger.
Unless you're rerimming and need the same ERD of course.