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Busch & Muller wiring diagrams



 
 
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  #11  
Old August 3rd 19, 12:41 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
bob prohaska
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 102
Default Busch & Muller wiring diagrams

Andre Jute wrote:
On Friday, August 2, 2019 at 7:32:14 PM UTC+1, bob prohaska wrote:
Andre Jute wrote:

Assembly instructions:
http://en.bumm.de/service/download/a...tructions.html
These are everything they appear ever to have published, and they're just external wiring connections, basically instructions not to cross over the wires.


That's the sort of document I hoped to find, but the level of detail
and my (non-)grasp of German conspire to defeat comprehension. Oh, wait!

In the figure at

http://en.bumm.de/fileadmin/user_upl...gen/171y-d.pdf

one sees items 1 and 2, with lightning and ground symbols. They
seem to correspond to micro-spade connectors that go to the D-
Toplicht-plus taillight. There's a seemingly matching pair of
micro-spade connectors on the right side of the fixture. That
right-hand pair is unused and might be what I'm looking for.

Thank you!

bob prohaska


It's a bit more complicated than that, Bob. BUMM makes basically two kinds of headlamps, all under the assumption that there is 3W of power available, that is 6V at 15kph, about 10mph, at 500mA. So BUMM makes
--- headlamps intended to consume all of that 3W, to be used with battery taillights,
and
-- headlamps intended to consume 2.4W, to pass through 0.6W for the consumption of the rear lamp.

So, if a lamp from BUMM has a second set of connectors, they're for the rear lamp, and the front lamp will be a bit weaker than the type which dissipates the full, glorious 3W.


This particular Lumotec Oval actually has two extra contact pairs; one pair
goes to the taillight, the other was unused. I can't guess what it was for.
It acts like a direct connection to the dyamo.

Now, you and I would build such a system by stacking up different numbers of LEDs in the front and rear lamps to draw 0.5A* at different voltages but there is no guarantee that BUMM did the simple thing.

However, I suspect that the additional circuitry, if any, inside the BUMM lamps consist only of a rectifier and a voltage regulator, with the regulated total voltage available disposed between the lamps by the choice of LEDs.

I were you, I'd argue that the lamp is old and has earned its cost, but keep my meter handy to check that I'm not cross-wiring it, which could be fatal to the glowing part of the lamps.


The two unused contacts are AC, seemingly unregulated. With the LED set
I'm using just under 7 volts AC appears on a circuit wired like this:
http://www.zefox.net/~bob/bicycle/schematic.gif


For my purposes it's perfectly satisfactory, the only remaining issue
is contriving a good mechanical support for the light bar.

I agree that the old light is overdue for replacement, but the bike is
not much used at night; the purpose of the jury-rigged LED setup is mostly
for a DRL. Someday I'll acquire a modern light, in the meantime this is
much better than nothing.

Thanks for writing!

bob prohaska

Ads
  #12  
Old August 3rd 19, 02:22 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Andre Jute[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 10,422
Default Busch & Muller wiring diagrams

On Saturday, August 3, 2019 at 12:41:52 AM UTC+1, bob prohaska wrote:
The two unused contacts are AC, seemingly unregulated. With the LED set
I'm using just under 7 volts AC appears on a circuit


My SON and Shimano dynamos all peak at well over 7V, but the extra pair of outputs on your lamp is just weird. Maybe it's an output for BUMM's E-Werk, a dynamo-driven system for charging your phone, GPS, etc.

Good luck.

Andre Jute
So many bicycle components, so many layouts
  #13  
Old August 3rd 19, 05:02 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
pH
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 77
Default Busch & Muller wiring diagrams

On Friday, August 2, 2019 at 4:41:52 PM UTC-7, bob prohaska wrote:
Andre Jute wrote:
On Friday, August 2, 2019 at 7:32:14 PM UTC+1, bob prohaska wrote:
Andre Jute wrote:

Assembly instructions:
http://en.bumm.de/service/download/a...tructions.html
These are everything they appear ever to have published, and they're just external wiring connections, basically instructions not to cross over the wires.


That's the sort of document I hoped to find, but the level of detail
and my (non-)grasp of German conspire to defeat comprehension. Oh, wait!

In the figure at

http://en.bumm.de/fileadmin/user_upl...gen/171y-d.pdf

one sees items 1 and 2, with lightning and ground symbols. They
seem to correspond to micro-spade connectors that go to the D-
Toplicht-plus taillight. There's a seemingly matching pair of
micro-spade connectors on the right side of the fixture. That
right-hand pair is unused and might be what I'm looking for.

Thank you!

bob prohaska


It's a bit more complicated than that, Bob. BUMM makes basically two kinds of headlamps, all under the assumption that there is 3W of power available, that is 6V at 15kph, about 10mph, at 500mA. So BUMM makes
--- headlamps intended to consume all of that 3W, to be used with battery taillights,
and
-- headlamps intended to consume 2.4W, to pass through 0.6W for the consumption of the rear lamp.

So, if a lamp from BUMM has a second set of connectors, they're for the rear lamp, and the front lamp will be a bit weaker than the type which dissipates the full, glorious 3W.


This particular Lumotec Oval actually has two extra contact pairs; one pair
goes to the taillight, the other was unused. I can't guess what it was for.
It acts like a direct connection to the dyamo.

Now, you and I would build such a system by stacking up different numbers of LEDs in the front and rear lamps to draw 0.5A* at different voltages but there is no guarantee that BUMM did the simple thing.

However, I suspect that the additional circuitry, if any, inside the BUMM lamps consist only of a rectifier and a voltage regulator, with the regulated total voltage available disposed between the lamps by the choice of LEDs.

I were you, I'd argue that the lamp is old and has earned its cost, but keep my meter handy to check that I'm not cross-wiring it, which could be fatal to the glowing part of the lamps.


The two unused contacts are AC, seemingly unregulated. With the LED set
I'm using just under 7 volts AC appears on a circuit wired like this:
http://www.zefox.net/~bob/bicycle/schematic.gif


For my purposes it's perfectly satisfactory, the only remaining issue
is contriving a good mechanical support for the light bar.

I agree that the old light is overdue for replacement, but the bike is
not much used at night; the purpose of the jury-rigged LED setup is mostly
for a DRL. Someday I'll acquire a modern light, in the meantime this is
much better than nothing.

Thanks for writing!

bob prohaska


What's a "DRL", Bob?
pH
  #14  
Old August 3rd 19, 11:30 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Sepp Ruf
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 454
Default Busch & Muller wiring diagrams

Andre Jute wrote:
On Saturday, August 3, 2019 at 12:41:52 AM UTC+1, bob prohaska wrote:
The two unused contacts are AC, seemingly unregulated. With the LED
set I'm using just under 7 volts AC appears on a circuit


My SON and Shimano dynamos all peak at well over 7V, but the extra pair
of outputs on your lamp is just weird. Maybe it's an output for BUMM's
E-Werk, a dynamo-driven system for charging your phone, GPS, etc.


Unlikely, Lumotec Oval being a 1990's product. Much more likely to be the
same part as in the sidewall-dyno, "wireless" versions intended for
double-wiring to generator and tail.
  #15  
Old August 3rd 19, 01:10 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Sir Ridesalot
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 5,270
Default Busch & Muller wiring diagrams

On Saturday, August 3, 2019 at 12:02:03 AM UTC-4, pH wrote:
On Friday, August 2, 2019 at 4:41:52 PM UTC-7, bob prohaska wrote:
Andre Jute wrote:
On Friday, August 2, 2019 at 7:32:14 PM UTC+1, bob prohaska wrote:
Andre Jute wrote:

Assembly instructions:
http://en.bumm.de/service/download/a...tructions.html
These are everything they appear ever to have published, and they're just external wiring connections, basically instructions not to cross over the wires.


That's the sort of document I hoped to find, but the level of detail
and my (non-)grasp of German conspire to defeat comprehension. Oh, wait!

In the figure at

http://en.bumm.de/fileadmin/user_upl...gen/171y-d.pdf

one sees items 1 and 2, with lightning and ground symbols. They
seem to correspond to micro-spade connectors that go to the D-
Toplicht-plus taillight. There's a seemingly matching pair of
micro-spade connectors on the right side of the fixture. That
right-hand pair is unused and might be what I'm looking for.

Thank you!

bob prohaska

It's a bit more complicated than that, Bob. BUMM makes basically two kinds of headlamps, all under the assumption that there is 3W of power available, that is 6V at 15kph, about 10mph, at 500mA. So BUMM makes
--- headlamps intended to consume all of that 3W, to be used with battery taillights,
and
-- headlamps intended to consume 2.4W, to pass through 0.6W for the consumption of the rear lamp.

So, if a lamp from BUMM has a second set of connectors, they're for the rear lamp, and the front lamp will be a bit weaker than the type which dissipates the full, glorious 3W.


This particular Lumotec Oval actually has two extra contact pairs; one pair
goes to the taillight, the other was unused. I can't guess what it was for.
It acts like a direct connection to the dyamo.

Now, you and I would build such a system by stacking up different numbers of LEDs in the front and rear lamps to draw 0.5A* at different voltages but there is no guarantee that BUMM did the simple thing.

However, I suspect that the additional circuitry, if any, inside the BUMM lamps consist only of a rectifier and a voltage regulator, with the regulated total voltage available disposed between the lamps by the choice of LEDs.

I were you, I'd argue that the lamp is old and has earned its cost, but keep my meter handy to check that I'm not cross-wiring it, which could be fatal to the glowing part of the lamps.


The two unused contacts are AC, seemingly unregulated. With the LED set
I'm using just under 7 volts AC appears on a circuit wired like this:
http://www.zefox.net/~bob/bicycle/schematic.gif


For my purposes it's perfectly satisfactory, the only remaining issue
is contriving a good mechanical support for the light bar.

I agree that the old light is overdue for replacement, but the bike is
not much used at night; the purpose of the jury-rigged LED setup is mostly
for a DRL. Someday I'll acquire a modern light, in the meantime this is
much better than nothing.

Thanks for writing!

bob prohaska


What's a "DRL", Bob?
pH


DRL = Daylight Running Light.

Cheers
  #16  
Old August 3rd 19, 01:34 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
AMuzi
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 13,447
Default Busch & Muller wiring diagrams

On 8/2/2019 11:02 PM, pH wrote:
On Friday, August 2, 2019 at 4:41:52 PM UTC-7, bob prohaska wrote:
Andre Jute wrote:
On Friday, August 2, 2019 at 7:32:14 PM UTC+1, bob prohaska wrote:
Andre Jute wrote:

Assembly instructions:
http://en.bumm.de/service/download/a...tructions.html
These are everything they appear ever to have published, and they're just external wiring connections, basically instructions not to cross over the wires.


That's the sort of document I hoped to find, but the level of detail
and my (non-)grasp of German conspire to defeat comprehension. Oh, wait!

In the figure at

http://en.bumm.de/fileadmin/user_upl...gen/171y-d.pdf

one sees items 1 and 2, with lightning and ground symbols. They
seem to correspond to micro-spade connectors that go to the D-
Toplicht-plus taillight. There's a seemingly matching pair of
micro-spade connectors on the right side of the fixture. That
right-hand pair is unused and might be what I'm looking for.

Thank you!

bob prohaska

It's a bit more complicated than that, Bob. BUMM makes basically two kinds of headlamps, all under the assumption that there is 3W of power available, that is 6V at 15kph, about 10mph, at 500mA. So BUMM makes
--- headlamps intended to consume all of that 3W, to be used with battery taillights,
and
-- headlamps intended to consume 2.4W, to pass through 0.6W for the consumption of the rear lamp.

So, if a lamp from BUMM has a second set of connectors, they're for the rear lamp, and the front lamp will be a bit weaker than the type which dissipates the full, glorious 3W.


This particular Lumotec Oval actually has two extra contact pairs; one pair
goes to the taillight, the other was unused. I can't guess what it was for.
It acts like a direct connection to the dyamo.

Now, you and I would build such a system by stacking up different numbers of LEDs in the front and rear lamps to draw 0.5A* at different voltages but there is no guarantee that BUMM did the simple thing.

However, I suspect that the additional circuitry, if any, inside the BUMM lamps consist only of a rectifier and a voltage regulator, with the regulated total voltage available disposed between the lamps by the choice of LEDs.

I were you, I'd argue that the lamp is old and has earned its cost, but keep my meter handy to check that I'm not cross-wiring it, which could be fatal to the glowing part of the lamps.


The two unused contacts are AC, seemingly unregulated. With the LED set
I'm using just under 7 volts AC appears on a circuit wired like this:
http://www.zefox.net/~bob/bicycle/schematic.gif


For my purposes it's perfectly satisfactory, the only remaining issue
is contriving a good mechanical support for the light bar.

I agree that the old light is overdue for replacement, but the bike is
not much used at night; the purpose of the jury-rigged LED setup is mostly
for a DRL. Someday I'll acquire a modern light, in the meantime this is
much better than nothing.

Thanks for writing!

bob prohaska


What's a "DRL", Bob?
pH


It's a modern totem which functions like a St Christopher
medal.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971


  #17  
Old August 3rd 19, 02:37 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Tosspot[_3_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,563
Default Busch & Muller wiring diagrams

On 03/08/2019 06:02, pH wrote:
On Friday, August 2, 2019 at 4:41:52 PM UTC-7, bob prohaska wrote:
Andre Jute wrote:
On Friday, August 2, 2019 at 7:32:14 PM UTC+1, bob prohaska wrote:
Andre Jute wrote:

Assembly instructions:
http://en.bumm.de/service/download/a...tructions.html
These are everything they appear ever to have published, and they're just external wiring connections, basically instructions not to cross over the wires.


That's the sort of document I hoped to find, but the level of detail
and my (non-)grasp of German conspire to defeat comprehension. Oh, wait!

In the figure at

http://en.bumm.de/fileadmin/user_upl...gen/171y-d.pdf

one sees items 1 and 2, with lightning and ground symbols. They
seem to correspond to micro-spade connectors that go to the D-
Toplicht-plus taillight. There's a seemingly matching pair of
micro-spade connectors on the right side of the fixture. That
right-hand pair is unused and might be what I'm looking for.

Thank you!

bob prohaska

It's a bit more complicated than that, Bob. BUMM makes basically two kinds of headlamps, all under the assumption that there is 3W of power available, that is 6V at 15kph, about 10mph, at 500mA. So BUMM makes
--- headlamps intended to consume all of that 3W, to be used with battery taillights,
and
-- headlamps intended to consume 2.4W, to pass through 0.6W for the consumption of the rear lamp.

So, if a lamp from BUMM has a second set of connectors, they're for the rear lamp, and the front lamp will be a bit weaker than the type which dissipates the full, glorious 3W.


This particular Lumotec Oval actually has two extra contact pairs; one pair
goes to the taillight, the other was unused. I can't guess what it was for.
It acts like a direct connection to the dyamo.

Now, you and I would build such a system by stacking up different numbers of LEDs in the front and rear lamps to draw 0.5A* at different voltages but there is no guarantee that BUMM did the simple thing.

However, I suspect that the additional circuitry, if any, inside the BUMM lamps consist only of a rectifier and a voltage regulator, with the regulated total voltage available disposed between the lamps by the choice of LEDs.

I were you, I'd argue that the lamp is old and has earned its cost, but keep my meter handy to check that I'm not cross-wiring it, which could be fatal to the glowing part of the lamps.


The two unused contacts are AC, seemingly unregulated. With the LED set
I'm using just under 7 volts AC appears on a circuit wired like this:
http://www.zefox.net/~bob/bicycle/schematic.gif


For my purposes it's perfectly satisfactory, the only remaining issue
is contriving a good mechanical support for the light bar.

I agree that the old light is overdue for replacement, but the bike is
not much used at night; the purpose of the jury-rigged LED setup is mostly
for a DRL. Someday I'll acquire a modern light, in the meantime this is
much better than nothing.

Thanks for writing!

bob prohaska


What's a "DRL", Bob?


Daytime Running Light for when the unshielded nuclear reactor just
cutting the mustard.
  #18  
Old August 3rd 19, 04:55 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Frank Krygowski[_4_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 10,538
Default Busch & Muller wiring diagrams

On 8/3/2019 8:34 AM, AMuzi wrote:
On 8/2/2019 11:02 PM, pH wrote:
On Friday, August 2, 2019 at 4:41:52 PM UTC-7, bob prohaska wrote:
Andre Jute wrote:
On Friday, August 2, 2019 at 7:32:14 PM UTC+1, bob prohaska wrote:
Andre Jute wrote:

Assembly instructions:
http://en.bumm.de/service/download/a...tructions.html
These are everything they appear ever to have published, and
they're just external wiring connections, basically instructions
not to cross over the wires.


That's the sort of document I hoped to find, but the level of detail
and my (non-)grasp of German conspire to defeat comprehension. Oh,
wait!

In the figure at

http://en.bumm.de/fileadmin/user_upl...gen/171y-d.pdf

one sees items 1 and 2, with lightning and ground symbols. They
seem to correspond to micro-spade connectors that go to the D-
Toplicht-plus taillight. There's a seemingly matching pair of
micro-spade connectors on the right side of the fixture. That
right-hand pair is unused and might be what I'm looking for.

Thank you!

bob prohaska

It's a bit more complicated than that, Bob. BUMM makes basically two
kinds of headlamps, all under the assumption that there is 3W of
power available, that is 6V at 15kph, about 10mph, at 500mA. So BUMM
makes
--- headlamps intended to consume all of that 3W, to be used with
battery taillights,
and
-- headlamps intended to consume 2.4W, to pass through 0.6W for the
consumption of the rear lamp.

So, if a lamp from BUMM has a second set of connectors, they're for
the rear lamp, and the front lamp will be a bit weaker than the type
which dissipates the full, glorious 3W.


This particular Lumotec Oval actually has two extra contact pairs;
one pair
goes to the taillight, the other was unused. I can't guess what it
was for.
It acts like a direct connection to the dyamo.

Now, you and I would build such a system by stacking up different
numbers of LEDs in the front and rear lamps to draw 0.5A* at
different voltages but there is no guarantee that BUMM did the
simple thing.

However, I suspect that the additional circuitry, if any, inside the
BUMM lamps consist only of a rectifier and a voltage regulator, with
the regulated total voltage available disposed between the lamps by
the choice of LEDs.

I were you, I'd argue that the lamp is old and has earned its cost,
but keep my meter handy to check that I'm not cross-wiring it, which
could be fatal to the glowing part of the lamps.


The two unused contacts are AC, seemingly unregulated. With the LED set
I'm using just under 7 volts AC appears on a circuit wired like this:
http://www.zefox.net/~bob/bicycle/schematic.gif


For my purposes it's perfectly satisfactory, the only remaining issue
is contriving a good mechanical support for the light bar.

I agree that the old light is overdue for replacement, but the bike is
not much used at night; the purpose of the jury-rigged LED setup is
mostly
for a DRL. Someday I'll acquire a modern light, in the meantime this is
much better than nothing.

Thanks for writing!

bob prohaska


What's a "DRL", Bob?
pH


It's a modern totem which functions like aÂ* St Christopher medal.


They're quite the rage!

How long before the news reports say: "The cyclists was run over from
behind while riding in a 'protected' bike lane. The driver had alcohol,
heroin and fentanyl in his bloodstream and had just smashed four cars
and hit three pedestrians. But the cyclist was not wearing a helmet and
was not using a Daytime Running Light."


--
- Frank Krygowski
  #19  
Old August 3rd 19, 04:58 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Frank Krygowski[_4_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 10,538
Default Busch & Muller wiring diagrams

On 8/3/2019 6:30 AM, Sepp Ruf wrote:
Andre Jute wrote:
On Saturday, August 3, 2019 at 12:41:52 AM UTC+1, bob prohaska wrote:
The two unused contacts are AC, seemingly unregulated. With the LED
set I'm using just under 7 volts AC appears on a circuit


My SON and Shimano dynamos all peak at well over 7V, but the extra pair
of outputs on your lamp is just weird. Maybe it's an output for BUMM's
E-Werk, a dynamo-driven system for charging your phone, GPS, etc.


Unlikely, Lumotec Oval being a 1990's product. Much more likely to be the
same part as in the sidewall-dyno, "wireless" versions intended for
double-wiring to generator and tail.


Yes. And the simplest fix is to buy a replacement LED from Reflectalite.


--
- Frank Krygowski
  #20  
Old August 3rd 19, 06:38 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Sepp Ruf
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 454
Default Busch & Muller wiring diagrams

Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 8/3/2019 6:30 AM, Sepp Ruf wrote:
Andre Jute wrote:
On Saturday, August 3, 2019 at 12:41:52 AM UTC+1, bob prohaska wrote:
The two unused contacts are AC, seemingly unregulated. With the LED
set I'm using just under 7 volts AC appears on a circuit

My SON and Shimano dynamos all peak at well over 7V, but the extra pair
of outputs on your lamp is just weird. Maybe it's an output for BUMM's
E-Werk, a dynamo-driven system for charging your phone, GPS, etc.


Unlikely, Lumotec Oval being a 1990's product. Much more likely to be the
same part as in the sidewall-dyno, "wireless" versions intended for
double-wiring to generator and tail.


Yes. And the simplest fix is to buy a replacement LED from Reflectalite.


I'd rather not spend 12+ UKP (NL412 bulb) to turn a dim L.Oval into some DRL
toy, but that's bobp's choice.
 




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