beaded, tubeless, folding HELP!

Ok, so I am looking to buy new mtb tyres and I keep seeing these
different types. Can someone explain what they are, how to fit and wha
is advisable and best value? All I do is some fairly light trail riding


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"davebee" wrote in message
.. .
Ok, so I am looking to buy new mtb tyres and I keep seeing these 3
different types. Can someone explain what they are, how to fit and what
is advisable and best value? All I do is some fairly light trail riding.

IFAIK all mtb tyres are beaded, the bead engages on the rim lip to keep 'em
on.

Tubeless tyres require special expensive rims and are dear in themselves.
Theoretically they're lighter and can be run at lower pressures without
fear of getting pinch punctures, ie the innner tube getS squashed against
the rim when hitting an obstacle.
Forget them for trail riding, if they puncture from thorns, which is likely
on bridleways and towpaths, they will be more of a pain than changing a
tube, 1 after first removing the thorn(s) from the tyre.

Folding tyres use Kevlar 2 in the beads rather than steel wire. The
advantages are that you can carry a spare more easily if on a long trip,
they are lighter if that's a concern and they are generally easier to remove
and re-fit which is particularly useful if you ride on puncture prone
trails.

1It's easier to carry a spare and repair punctures when you get back. If
riding alone ideally carry 2 spares then if a tube becomes unservicable, say
a valve rips out, you won't have the rest of your ride ruined by worrying
about not having another spare.
2 http://www.dupont.com/kevlar/whatiskevlar.html
--
Regards,
Pete

davebee wrote:

Beaded = if steel beaded, these are the normal tyres. Not too expensive
but don't fold up for carrying (not a concern unless you're an
expedition tourist) and not the lightest.

Tubeless = forget it - they need special rims and are really for
downhill racers.

Folding = the bead is kevlar rather than steel. They fold up and are
lighter BUT are more expensivle and can be extremely difficult to fit if
you have an unfortunate tyre/rim combination. I'd advise fitting them
without a tube first, using tyre levers. This often stretches the bead
just enough to allow fitting by hand when you do it with a tube.

"Zog The Undeniable" wrote in message
...
Folding = the bead is kevlar rather than steel. They fold up and are
lighter BUT are more expensivle and can be extremely difficult to fit if
you have an unfortunate tyre/rim combination.

IME some Kevlar beaded road tyres can be difficult as can some wire beaded
road tyres but I've never found a problem with fitting Kevlar beaded mtb
tyres nor know of anyone who experienced a problem.
I do, of course, expect to be corrected :-)
--
Regards,
Pete

Peter B wrote:

"Zog The Undeniable" wrote in message
...

Folding = the bead is kevlar rather than steel. They fold up and are
lighter BUT are more expensivle and can be extremely difficult to fit if
you have an unfortunate tyre/rim combination.


IME some Kevlar beaded road tyres can be difficult as can some wire beaded
road tyres but I've never found a problem with fitting Kevlar beaded mtb
tyres nor know of anyone who experienced a problem.
I do, of course, expect to be corrected :-)

Try S-Licks and Rhyno Lites, then have a cup of tea and watch your
fingers bleed afterwards :-)

ISWYM though - knobbly kevlar-beaded tyres never seem as tight. I don't
actually carry tyre levers on the MTB because I can just pull them off
(oo-er missus).

"Peter B" wrote in message
...

"davebee" wrote in message
.. .
Ok, so I am looking to buy new mtb tyres and I keep seeing these 3
different types. Can someone explain what they are, how to fit and what
is advisable and best value? All I do is some fairly light trail riding.

snip

Folding tyres use Kevlar 2 in the beads rather than steel wire. The
advantages are that you can carry a spare more easily if on a long trip,
they are lighter if that's a concern and they are generally easier to
remove
and re-fit which is particularly useful if you ride on puncture prone
trails.

They also generally use higher quality construction and as such will be more
puncture resistant and will roll and grip better - the weight saving is due
at least in quite a large part to this rather than the direct steel
bead/kevlar bead equation. Cost more but you do get what you pay for.

Russ

davebee writes:

Ok, so I am looking to buy new mtb tyres and I keep seeing these 3
different types. Can someone explain what they are, how to fit and what
is advisable and best value? All I do is some fairly light trail riding.

Most cycle tyres have cords (beads) round each edge which hold them
onto the rim. These cords are either of steel wire or kevlar. Kevlar
folds, so those with kevlar beads are 'folding'. Most cycle tyres are
designed to be used with inner tubes. Most cycle wheel rims are
designed to be used with inner tubes, and are not air-tight - air can
pass through the rim at the spoke nipples and at the valve hole. As
the rim is already leaky and must be used with an inner tube it
doesn't matter whether or not the tyre forms an airtight seal onto the
rim.

However, some (expensive, relatively new) cycle wheel rims are
designed to be used without tubes. The spoke nipples do not come
through into the well of the rim. You can use these rims with tubes
OK, but you can also use them without, provided the tyre makes a good
airtight seal to the rim. Tyres which are designed to make an airtight
seal to the rim are called tupeless (although you can use them with
tubes.

The only point in having a folding tyre is to be able to carry a spare
tyre with you when you're cycling. If you don't want to do that you're
paying a five to ten pound premium for a product which isn't any
better (actually it will be a few grammes lighter so if you're a real
weight weenie you may think that makes it better). I really don't
currently see any point in using a tubeless tyre on a pushbike, and
unless you've already got the special rims you can't anyway.

So what you want is the basic beaded tyre.

--
(Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/

;; how did we conclude that a ****ing cartoon mouse is deserving
;; of 90+ years of protection, but a cure for cancer, only 14?
-- user 'Tackhead', in /. discussion of copyright law, 22/05/02

"Russ" wrote in message
...
They also generally use higher quality construction and as such will be
more
puncture resistant and will roll and grip better - the weight saving is
due
at least in quite a large part to this rather than the direct steel
bead/kevlar bead equation. Cost more but you do get what you pay for.


How's it going Russ?
--
Best Regards,
Pete

"Peter B" wrote in message
...

"Russ" wrote in message
...
They also generally use higher quality construction and as such will be
more
puncture resistant and will roll and grip better - the weight saving is
due
at least in quite a large part to this rather than the direct steel
bead/kevlar bead equation. Cost more but you do get what you pay for.


How's it going Russ?
--
Best Regards,
Pete

Pretty good thanks - Off for two weeks sking in colorado next week :-) Will
be great to get out into the mountains once again

Cheers

Russ