3cad

tapping the utility ?

http://blog.cnccookbook.com/2014/06/...h-3d-printers/

is ultrasonic used to eliminate voids ?

On Sat, 31 Jan 2015 18:11:52 -0800, Jeff Liebermann
wrote:

"How to use 3D printing in lost-wax casting of custom lugs for a
bicycle frame"
http://www.3ders.org/articles/20130925-how-to-use-3d-printing-in-lost-wax-casting-of-custom-lugs-for-a-bicycle-frame.html

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

On 1/31/2015 9:04 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Sat, 31 Jan 2015 18:56:12 -0500, Frank Krygowski wrote:

Yep. I've seen it done, using bronze. The pattern was printed in wax,
then standard Lost Wax techniques were used to cast the bronze.

Right. However, lost wax sand casting has its limitations, such as
not being able to cast parts with included voids, smooth surfaces,
threaded holes, etc. While such parts are easy with 3D printing, they
are difficult or impossible with sand casting.

I'm not familiar with lost wax sand casting, although it seems possible.
The lost wax casting I've seen and know about involves ceramic molds,
formed by pouring plaster (or a similar substance) around the wax
pattern to form the mold. The mold is fired to harden it, and the wax
is poured out or burned out at that stage. The surface finish and
details are very good, much better than sand casting.

I'm not sure if threaded holes are feasible. I suppose it depends on the
pitch of the thread. But I'd bet it's more practical to just cut
threads afterwards, rather than tinker with the process to get the
necessary precision to cast them.

--
- Frank Krygowski

On Sun, 01 Feb 2015 00:38:37 -0500, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On 1/31/2015 9:04 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Sat, 31 Jan 2015 18:56:12 -0500, Frank Krygowski wrote:

Yep. I've seen it done, using bronze. The pattern was printed in wax,
then standard Lost Wax techniques were used to cast the bronze.

Right. However, lost wax sand casting has its limitations, such as
not being able to cast parts with included voids, smooth surfaces,
threaded holes, etc. While such parts are easy with 3D printing, they
are difficult or impossible with sand casting.

I'm not familiar with lost wax sand casting, although it seems possible.

The "sand" is actually a mix of sand and plaster. The big advantage
of sand over plaster of Paris is that sand will handle the higher
temperatures needed for casting iron (1200C) as compared to aluminum
(660C) or brass(920C). When I was using just plaster of Paris, I
somehow never managed to get all the water out of the "investment". As
soon as the I poured in the metal, steam explosions would ruin the
casting. For unknown reasons, I did better with commerical and home
brew "green sand" (cat litter, silica sand, and mortar mix):
http://www.thefintels.com/aer/homefoundry.htm

The lost wax casting I've seen and know about involves ceramic molds,
formed by pouring plaster (or a similar substance) around the wax
pattern to form the mold. The mold is fired to harden it, and the wax
is poured out or burned out at that stage. The surface finish and
details are very good, much better than sand casting.

Yep. That's how it works. More detail:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lost-wax_casting
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Investment_casting
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sand_casting

I'm not sure if threaded holes are feasible.

It can be done, but mostly I've seen pilot holes or center markers for
later drill and tap operations.

I suppose it depends on the
pitch of the thread. But I'd bet it's more practical to just cut
threads afterwards, rather than tinker with the process to get the
necessary precision to cast them.

Yep. Finishing operations are what can make casting of any type
expensive. One has to grind away any imperfections, grind off the
parting line, drill/tap holes, remove any flash, etc. Fortunately,
casting has become accurate enough that such operations are now
automated, rather than done by hand.

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

On Sat, 31 Jan 2015 22:55:10 -0800, Jeff Liebermann
wrote:

On Sun, 01 Feb 2015 00:38:37 -0500, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On 1/31/2015 9:04 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Sat, 31 Jan 2015 18:56:12 -0500, Frank Krygowski wrote:

Yep. I've seen it done, using bronze. The pattern was printed in wax,
then standard Lost Wax techniques were used to cast the bronze.

Right. However, lost wax sand casting has its limitations, such as
not being able to cast parts with included voids, smooth surfaces,
threaded holes, etc. While such parts are easy with 3D printing, they
are difficult or impossible with sand casting.

I'm not familiar with lost wax sand casting, although it seems possible.

The "sand" is actually a mix of sand and plaster. The big advantage
of sand over plaster of Paris is that sand will handle the higher
temperatures needed for casting iron (1200C) as compared to aluminum
(660C) or brass(920C). When I was using just plaster of Paris, I
somehow never managed to get all the water out of the "investment". As
soon as the I poured in the metal, steam explosions would ruin the
casting. For unknown reasons, I did better with commerical and home
brew "green sand" (cat litter, silica sand, and mortar mix):
http://www.thefintels.com/aer/homefoundry.htm

The lost wax casting I've seen and know about involves ceramic molds,
formed by pouring plaster (or a similar substance) around the wax
pattern to form the mold. The mold is fired to harden it, and the wax
is poured out or burned out at that stage. The surface finish and
details are very good, much better than sand casting.

Yep. That's how it works. More detail:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lost-wax_casting
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Investment_casting
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sand_casting

I'm not sure if threaded holes are feasible.

It can be done, but mostly I've seen pilot holes or center markers for
later drill and tap operations.

I suppose it depends on the
pitch of the thread. But I'd bet it's more practical to just cut
threads afterwards, rather than tinker with the process to get the
necessary precision to cast them.

Yep. Finishing operations are what can make casting of any type
expensive. One has to grind away any imperfections, grind off the
parting line, drill/tap holes, remove any flash, etc. Fortunately,
casting has become accurate enough that such operations are now
automated, rather than done by hand.

I believe that golf club makers have been "lost wax" casting golf club
heads for 50 years or more. The technique is to make a master mold to
cast the wax cores, the cores are then coated with a "ceramic" coating
and then, I'm sure with some auxiliary supports, serve as the mold.

Ping certainly made/make cast clubs ands I think I remember Taylormade
saying that they could make clubs that needed no secondary polishing.

You probably know but
http://www.jeffsheetsgolf.com/#!investment-casting/ca77
might be of interest.

--
Cheers,

John B.

On Saturday, January 31, 2015 at 9:48:27 AM UTC-5, wrote:
http://fusion360.autodesk.com/about?...Fusion360Media

_ - - - - - - - _

so what good izzit ? zip off small plastic parts for drones ?

On 1/31/2015 8:04 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Sat, 31 Jan 2015 18:56:12 -0500, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On 1/31/2015 5:45 PM, wrote:
GET A FURNACE
https://www.google.com/#q=3D+PRINTIN...UMINUM+CASTING

In the distant past, I used to have a home foundry, which I used to
make various lead, brass, bronze, and aluminum parts. I tried lost
wax sand casting, but was not particularly successful. My big problem
was preventing voids from forming inside the casting, which limited
the strength of the part. I traded the whole mess to a local
sculpture.

do you climb ?

I did free climbing in my early 20's, aid climbing somewhat later, and
gave it up in my early 30's. I'm 67 now, so climbing is too risky.

Yep. I've seen it done, using bronze. The pattern was printed in wax,
then standard Lost Wax techniques were used to cast the bronze.

Right. However, lost wax sand casting has its limitations, such as
not being able to cast parts with included voids, smooth surfaces,
threaded holes, etc. While such parts are easy with 3D printing, they
are difficult or impossible with sand casting.


That's why jewelers cast in a centerfuge:
https://metalsaddict.wordpress.com/2...g-for-jewelry/

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On 1/31/2015 8:11 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Sun, 01 Feb 2015 01:00:56 GMT, Ralph Barone
wrote:

Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 1/31/2015 5:45 PM, wrote:
GET A FURNACE

https://www.google.com/#q=3D+PRINTIN...UMINUM+CASTING

do you climb ?

Yep. I've seen it done, using bronze. The pattern was printed in wax,
then standard Lost Wax techniques were used to cast the bronze.

It's too bad that the technology to create custom cast lugs (parametric 3-D
CAD and 3-D printers, coupled with the casting method above) is starting to
mature after the parts themselves went out of style.

Sure lugs can be sand cast. However, stampings and forgings are
stronger, have fewer imperfections, require fewer secondary
operations, and are cheaper (after the tooling is amortized):
http://www.saltcycle.org/2008/05/lugs.html
Also, if one must use cast lugs, they will probably be thicker and
heavier, than a stamped or forged lug.



There are examples from good to bad to abysmal with all
those techniques. My favorite lugs were Bocama Pro, pressed
and reformed with crisp internal fit, relatively even
thicknesses and a clean smooth outside finish too.

http://www.velobase.com/ViewFramePar...d141&AbsPos=94

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On Sun, 01 Feb 2015 11:00:20 -0600, AMuzi wrote:

On 1/31/2015 8:11 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Sun, 01 Feb 2015 01:00:56 GMT, Ralph Barone
wrote:

Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 1/31/2015 5:45 PM, wrote:
GET A FURNACE

https://www.google.com/#q=3D+PRINTIN...UMINUM+CASTING

do you climb ?

Yep. I've seen it done, using bronze. The pattern was printed in wax,
then standard Lost Wax techniques were used to cast the bronze.

It's too bad that the technology to create custom cast lugs (parametric 3-D
CAD and 3-D printers, coupled with the casting method above) is starting to
mature after the parts themselves went out of style.

Sure lugs can be sand cast. However, stampings and forgings are
stronger, have fewer imperfections, require fewer secondary
operations, and are cheaper (after the tooling is amortized):
http://www.saltcycle.org/2008/05/lugs.html
Also, if one must use cast lugs, they will probably be thicker and
heavier, than a stamped or forged lug.



There are examples from good to bad to abysmal with all
those techniques. My favorite lugs were Bocama Pro, pressed
and reformed with crisp internal fit, relatively even
thicknesses and a clean smooth outside finish too.

http://www.velobase.com/ViewFramePar...d141&AbsPos=94


I thought that Henry James cast lugs were the epitome of the lug world
- at least his prices make it seem so :-)
--
Cheers,

John B.

On 2/1/2015 8:37 PM, John B. Slocomb wrote:
On Sun, 01 Feb 2015 11:00:20 -0600, AMuzi wrote:

On 1/31/2015 8:11 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Sun, 01 Feb 2015 01:00:56 GMT, Ralph Barone
wrote:

Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 1/31/2015 5:45 PM, wrote:
GET A FURNACE

https://www.google.com/#q=3D+PRINTIN...UMINUM+CASTING

do you climb ?

Yep. I've seen it done, using bronze. The pattern was printed in wax,
then standard Lost Wax techniques were used to cast the bronze.

It's too bad that the technology to create custom cast lugs (parametric 3-D
CAD and 3-D printers, coupled with the casting method above) is starting to
mature after the parts themselves went out of style.

Sure lugs can be sand cast. However, stampings and forgings are
stronger, have fewer imperfections, require fewer secondary
operations, and are cheaper (after the tooling is amortized):
http://www.saltcycle.org/2008/05/lugs.html
Also, if one must use cast lugs, they will probably be thicker and
heavier, than a stamped or forged lug.



There are examples from good to bad to abysmal with all
those techniques. My favorite lugs were Bocama Pro, pressed
and reformed with crisp internal fit, relatively even
thicknesses and a clean smooth outside finish too.

http://www.velobase.com/ViewFramePar...d141&AbsPos=94


I thought that Henry James cast lugs were the epitome of the lug world
- at least his prices make it seem so :-)


A fine product, no complaints.
For a guy who does a lot of repair work, a softer more
malleable lug is a good thing, especially when it's clean
outside with good contact inside. Forcing a cast lug a
degree off is not at all good practice.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971