Stainless steel fasteners

Hello.

Most of the fasteners [cap-head hex screws] on my bike appear to be
plated steel, and after a few loosenings and tightenings which have
damaged the plate, rust is fast making inroads.

Am I asking for trouble ( eg. sudden complete failure of the
handlebar clamp) if I replace the fastenings with stainless steel
equivalents?

advTHANKSance.

nobody wrote:
Hello.

Most of the fasteners [cap-head hex screws] on my bike appear to be
plated steel, and after a few loosenings and tightenings which have
damaged the plate, rust is fast making inroads.

Am I asking for trouble ( eg. sudden complete failure of the
handlebar clamp) if I replace the fastenings with stainless steel
equivalents?

advTHANKSance.

Not at all, it's a good idea. The fasteners on your bike most likely are
metric ,and it makes it easier if you take a sample of each one you need
with you to a *good* hardware store. A dab of grease on the threads before
installation will prevent electrolosis and make for easier removal when
required.

On Wed, 19 Jan 2005 17:13:17 +0000, nobody may
have said:

Hello.

Most of the fasteners [cap-head hex screws] on my bike appear to be
plated steel, and after a few loosenings and tightenings which have
damaged the plate, rust is fast making inroads.

Am I asking for trouble ( eg. sudden complete failure of the
handlebar clamp) if I replace the fastenings with stainless steel
equivalents?

As long as they're of reasonably good quality, no. Some of them are a
bit soft, and may tend to have problems with the hex recesses
wallowing out more easily than a good steel fastener would. However,
most of the stainless screws on the market are of a better quality
than a lot of what's used in production on bikes, so this is unlikely
to be an issue by comparison. What you've got now may very well be
softer.


--
My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail.
Typoes are not a bug, they're a feature.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

there are hardware store then there are hardware stores stocking
fasteners then there are fastener(bolt/nut/washer/screw) stores. If you
live in a metro area take a look at internet service MAPQUEST
www.mapquest.com/ for hardware and fasteners stores.
Marine hardware stocks quality stainless: like the man sez some SS
comes in grade 2.5. trick or treat!
an alternative is a linseed coating. linseed is a lasting wax and
thread locker from the flax plant:
www.vitacost.com/science/hn/Supp/Flaxseed.htm
consider blue loctite from Walmart auto as a grease on threads
substitute or linseed on threads for axle nuts/axle threads.
loctite does not setup with a stainless/stainless or
stainless/non-ferrous thread-bolt surface. what stainless-ferrous does?
maybeless than the specs for Fe/Fe

Per :
consider blue loctite from Walmart auto as a grease on threads
substitute or linseed on threads for axle nuts/axle threads.
loctite does not setup with a stainless/stainless or
stainless/non-ferrous thread-bolt surface. what stainless-ferrous does?
maybeless than the specs for Fe/Fe

How about applying a rust converter to the rusted fastener in question and then
setting it in LocTite?

I've got this one 4mm hex-head cap screw that seems tb holding my entire
Richey-system frame together and it's rusting like there's no tomorrow.
Wouldn't want SS bc I *really* don't want this thing to work loose - yet there
is the issue of it rusting...
--
PeteCresswell

Per :
consider blue loctite from Walmart auto as a grease on threads
substitute or linseed on threads for axle nuts/axle threads.
loctite does not setup with a stainless/stainless or
stainless/non-ferrous thread-bolt surface. what stainless-ferrous does?
maybeless than the specs for Fe/Fe

(Pete Cresswell) wrote:
How about applying a rust converter to the rusted fastener in question and then
setting it in LocTite?

I've got this one 4mm hex-head cap screw that seems tb holding my entire
Richey-system frame together and it's rusting like there's no tomorrow.
Wouldn't want SS bc I *really* don't want this thing to work loose - yet there
is the issue of it rusting...

I wouldn't presume to try to translate whatever Gene wrote
but loctite works fine on stainless fasteners. It's commonly
done and doesn't give any trouble.

A greased bolt, properly torqued, isn't coming out either.
Don't worry.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On Fri, 21 Jan 2005 00:09:34 GMT, "(Pete Cresswell)" may have
said:

Per :
consider blue loctite from Walmart auto as a grease on threads
substitute or linseed on threads for axle nuts/axle threads.
loctite does not setup with a stainless/stainless or
stainless/non-ferrous thread-bolt surface. what stainless-ferrous does?
maybeless than the specs for Fe/Fe

How about applying a rust converter to the rusted fastener in question and then
setting it in LocTite?

I've got this one 4mm hex-head cap screw that seems tb holding my entire
Richey-system frame together and it's rusting like there's no tomorrow.
Wouldn't want SS bc I *really* don't want this thing to work loose - yet there
is the issue of it rusting...

Hit it with Naval Jelly, coat it with cold galvaniing compound, prime,
paint, install a protective plastic cap from a furniture supply house,
and put a layer of duct tape over it. That ought to solve the
problem, and it it doesn't at least it won't be where the sight of the
fastener slowly oxidizing can annoy you. ;

--
My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail.
Typoes are not a bug, they're a feature.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

grease and torque it down
then DNF!

grease vs loctite is a recurrying rubharb
that degenerates into a petro vs lithium vs soap grease vs. graphite vs
synth no actually the synth people tend to be elsewhere then this
stimuleates four-five trogs from the boons west of kansas to show up
with used autotrans oil on their chains then before you can say
campagnogalow the total tech group is filled with escappes from the
state mental hospital suffering from skin diseases.

naval jelly? werehat's pulling your penis.
wire brush wire brush
ifn ya can't brush it off, throw it into the can
unless its off a '39 maserati
i gotta virgin can a paint stripper for grabs?
check the loctite website for SS advice.

"A Muzi" wrote in message
...
Per :
consider blue loctite from Walmart auto as a grease on threads
substitute or linseed on threads for axle nuts/axle threads.
loctite does not setup with a stainless/stainless or
stainless/non-ferrous thread-bolt surface. what stainless-ferrous does?
maybeless than the specs for Fe/Fe

(Pete Cresswell) wrote:
How about applying a rust converter to the rusted fastener in question
and then
setting it in LocTite?

I've got this one 4mm hex-head cap screw that seems tb holding my entire
Richey-system frame together and it's rusting like there's no tomorrow.
Wouldn't want SS bc I *really* don't want this thing to work loose - yet
there
is the issue of it rusting...

I wouldn't presume to try to translate whatever Gene wrote
but loctite works fine on stainless fasteners. It's commonly
done and doesn't give any trouble.

A greased bolt, properly torqued, isn't coming out either.
Don't worry.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
You are correct, Loctite will work on stainless fasteners, however it does
take a while for it to set up. Loctite offers a primer that is clear and
sprayed on the fastener which will accelerate the set time and improve the
bond on stainless. We use it a lot in the food industry.

jbrown

On Fri, 21 Jan 2005 01:50:33 -0600 A Muzi wrote:

I wouldn't presume to try to translate whatever Gene wrote
but loctite works fine on stainless fasteners. It's commonly
done and doesn't give any trouble.

A greased bolt, properly torqued, isn't coming out either.
Don't worry.

Loctite needs something that will oxidize to remove oxygen in the
thread interface in order to harden. Stainless won't generally do
this, but a stainless bolt in a steel part will work fine, simply
because the locktite doesn't care what the material is, as long as the
oxygen is removed.

Locktite data sheets have a nice list of what materials will
"catalyze" the hardening, as well as what materials won't. If both of
your threaded parts are on the "won't" list, then Locktite actually
makes a spray can primer which contains finely divided nickel which
you can spray on the threads first. You just spray it on, let it dry,
and then apply the locktite and assemble the parts.

By the use of this primer I've managed to use locktite thread sealant
to seal nylon fittings in a stainless flange. This wouldn't work
without the primer.

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Jim Adney
Madison, WI 53711 USA
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