What a waste

On Sun, 14 Jun 2020 19:37:43 -0400, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

Our Mazda's color is Soul Red, a three layer paint job that's quite
beautiful. (I pick the cars, my wife picks the colors.)

You get to select the color of your car? When we went shopping for
our Tacoma, I wanted bright yellow, or if that wasn't available,
fire-engine red.

We got mist gray.


--
Joy Beeson
joy beeson at comcast dot net
http://wlweather.net/PAGEJOY/

On 6/15/2020 5:55 PM, Joy Beeson wrote:
On Sun, 14 Jun 2020 19:37:43 -0400, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

Our Mazda's color is Soul Red, a three layer paint job that's quite
beautiful. (I pick the cars, my wife picks the colors.)

You get to select the color of your car? When we went shopping for
our Tacoma, I wanted bright yellow, or if that wasn't available,
fire-engine red.

We got mist gray.

Ah! The Invisibility Cloak of car colors!


--
- Frank Krygowski

On Mon, 15 Jun 2020 13:02:26 -0400, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On 6/15/2020 2:44 AM, John B. wrote:
On Sun, 14 Jun 2020 20:53:35 -0700, Jeff Liebermann
wrote:

On Sun, 14 Jun 2020 19:37:43 -0400, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

Our Mazda's color is Soul Red, a three layer paint job that's quite
beautiful. (I pick the cars, my wife picks the colors.)

If you want your Mazda soul red crystal or metallic paint to last as
long as "Number 90 Red" on a fire engine, here's the process:

"The Optimal 7-Step Fire Truck Painting Process"
https://www.piercemfg.com/pierce/blog/fire-truck-painting-process

Notice that the last step is 2 coats of clear coat followed by baking
two hrs at 160F. The process takes one or two weeks, part of which
involves taking your fire engine apart to paint individual panels.

Boulder Creek (next to Ben Lomond) just received a new fire engine:
https://www.piercemfg.com/customers/new-deliveries/boulder-creek-fire-district-pumper-33987
https://www.santacruzmountainbulletin.net/2020/03/16/boulder-creek-gets-a-new-fire-engine/

I sure hope it's UV stable.

Don't bet on it. The OEM paint job only needs to last as long as the
factory warranty. When it eventually fades, peels, or rusts, and you
feel the need to spend some money, think about powder coating instead
of wet paint process. It's not as flashy looking as metallic gloss,
but does last longer:
https://www.kompareit.com/homeandgarden/painting-compare-powder-coat-vs-paint.html

I've powder coated several bicycles and frankly it doesn't begin to
compare with a proper two-part paint. It is probably more durable but
hardly as pretty. And how durable does a bicycle paint need to be?
By "two-part" I am referring to something like Interlux Perfection
Polyurethane, or something similar.

One might powder coat and than apply a clear coat over that, as a
"gloss coat" but that seems a bit much, to apply a very tough
undercoat, as it were, and overlay that with a softer less durable
gloss coat.

We ordered our folding bikes with powder coat, correctly guessing that
they would be banged around in transport more than normal bikes.

I assume the powder coat is tougher, but it's certainly not bullet
proof. My bike certainly has its chipped and rusted spots.

Well, basically there isn't anything that is "bullet proof", even
chrome plating will eventually wear or chip.

Perhaps the secret is no surface treatment at all. Let it rust and
then smear oil on it for that "browned" finish that was so common on
antique firearms.
--
cheers,

John B.

On Mon, 15 Jun 2020 11:29:37 -0700, Jeff Liebermann
wrote:

On Mon, 15 Jun 2020 13:02:26 -0400, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

We ordered our folding bikes with powder coat, correctly guessing that
they would be banged around in transport more than normal bikes.

I assume the powder coat is tougher, but it's certainly not bullet
proof. My bike certainly has its chipped and rusted spots.

Perhaps powder coat your new Mazda the same color to match your
bicycle?
https://www.eastwood.com/hotcoat-powder-coating/powders/red-powders-1.html
This might be close:
https://www.eastwood.com/hotcoat-powder-metallic-red.html

In about 2015, I helped a friend powder coat an antique Homelite XL-12
chain saw that he was rebuilding. He bought a gun and some powders
from Eastwood.
https://www.eastwood.com/hotcoat-powder-coating.html
We experimented a little on some scrap metal, which worked well. So,
we powder coated the formerly dull blue and white to bright glossy red
and white, and baked it in a junk yard electric oven. It looked
great. However, we goofed. We applied too much powder coating in
some areas causing the parts of the case to not quite fit together. I
had to sandpaper and file off some of the powder coating, and then
"polish" it with a propane torch. I couldn't find any photos in my
mess.

Commercial powder coating is normally applied by "spraying" onto an
electrically charged (I don't know plus or minus) surface that causes
the powder to adhere. Then baked.

Or at least that is how the shop that did by bicycles does it.
--
cheers,

John B.

On Mon, 15 Jun 2020 16:51:54 -0400, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On 6/15/2020 2:29 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

In about 2015, I helped a friend powder coat an antique Homelite XL-12
chain saw that he was rebuilding. He bought a gun and some powders
from Eastwood.
https://www.eastwood.com/hotcoat-powder-coating.html
We experimented a little on some scrap metal, which worked well. So,
we powder coated the formerly dull blue and white to bright glossy red
and white, and baked it in a junk yard electric oven. It looked
great. However, we goofed. We applied too much powder coating in
some areas causing the parts of the case to not quite fit together. I
had to sandpaper and file off some of the powder coating, and then
"polish" it with a propane torch. I couldn't find any photos in my
mess.

You do take on some cool projects!


"Powder Coating Clinic: Avoiding Rust on Parts"
https://www.pfonline.com/articles/powder-coating-clinic-avoiding-rust-on-parts
Looks like protecting a powder coated steel frame is complicated. Did
your frame get a zinc powder primer coating?

I don't know, but I suspect not.

The bike doesn't look bad - or at least, no worse than the rest of my
bikes. IIRC the rusty nicks are confined to the super-long gooseneck
stem. But the fact that the nicks did rust makes me suspect no zinc.

The shop I used bead blasted the item to provide a "clean" surface and
than coated the item and baked it. Which I believe is the usual
method.

For chips buy a small can of similar colored paint and just touch up
the chips.
--
cheers,

John B.

On Tue, 16 Jun 2020 05:52:28 +0700, John B. wrote:

On Mon, 15 Jun 2020 11:29:37 -0700, Jeff Liebermann
wrote:

On Mon, 15 Jun 2020 13:02:26 -0400, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

We ordered our folding bikes with powder coat, correctly guessing that
they would be banged around in transport more than normal bikes.

I assume the powder coat is tougher, but it's certainly not bullet
proof. My bike certainly has its chipped and rusted spots.

Perhaps powder coat your new Mazda the same color to match your bicycle?
https://www.eastwood.com/hotcoat-pow...g/powders/red-
powders-1.html
This might be close:
https://www.eastwood.com/hotcoat-powder-metallic-red.html

In about 2015, I helped a friend powder coat an antique Homelite XL-12
chain saw that he was rebuilding. He bought a gun and some powders from
Eastwood.
https://www.eastwood.com/hotcoat-powder-coating.html
We experimented a little on some scrap metal, which worked well. So,
we powder coated the formerly dull blue and white to bright glossy red
and white, and baked it in a junk yard electric oven. It looked great.
However, we goofed. We applied too much powder coating in some areas
causing the parts of the case to not quite fit together. I had to
sandpaper and file off some of the powder coating, and then "polish" it
with a propane torch. I couldn't find any photos in my mess.

Commercial powder coating is normally applied by "spraying" onto an
electrically charged (I don't know plus or minus) surface that causes
the powder to adhere. Then baked.

Or at least that is how the shop that did by bicycles does it.

Yep, that is how it is done and surface prep is every thing.

Web searching will turn up some How-Tos on how to adapt an old domestic
oven if you want to powder coat "small" parts.

On Mon, 15 Jun 2020 09:07:53 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote:


For example Logitech mouse, keyboard, camera, headset, remote control,
etc products https://www.logitech.com
are partially painted with a rubberized paint that is designed to feel
like human skin. After about 5 years, the rubberized paint begins to
become sticky. After a few more years, it de-polymerizes into a
disgustingly sticky and messy black goo. I have been unable to find any
practical method to reverse the process or clean up the mess.

Err, do not buy Logitech products for a start?
However, that "rubber disintegration" has been a commom problem in a lot
of products.

Another example is older HP laserjet printers. All of those which used
a Canon engine, had foam rubber cushions in the solenoids to reduce
noise and clatter while operating. After about 7 years, the foam rubber
will decompose, turn sticky. That causes the armature to stick to the
solenoid. The result is an intermittent paper feed and paper jams. My
articles on how to fix the problem:
http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/hp2200/hp2200.html
http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/hp4200/hp4200.html
This was known by both HP and Canon since about 1987, when the first
Apple LaserWriter appeared, and continued with every model until about
1995. Rather than fix these printers, users were told to buy new
printers because the old one was "worn out".

Weird, because they were all Canon EX (model I) or SX(model 2) engines
with just custom printer motherherboards*. That was the only time when
you had real competition in laserjet toner supplies. Then the
manufacturers "woke" up and started building their own custom machines
that tookonly their toner cartridges.

I know that various HP printers were just disasters in design and
function, like the HP4v was a real expensive dog to own and operate.

My own Canon SX engine eventually died when the rollers all flattened
from age and non useage. "Rubber" ages full stop.

*One of my "gigs' involved replacing the motherboards of these printers
to convert from PCL to Postscript.

On Mon, 15 Jun 2020 12:46:10 -0500, AMuzi wrote:


Aside from all that, you have the dread EPA and her evil big sister Cal
EPA so not only the most popular red pigments but also several
generations of paint coating technology were 'banished from the
kingdom'. That's the backstory on the early 1980s utter failure of 1st
gen 'base coat clear coat' auto finishes, which turned leprous.

Not only industrial (car, bike, electronics) finishes either. My
daughter carps all the while about various silk dyes which get randomly
banned without a suitable substitute. 2d choice color may tick off a car
buyer but it's significant to a fine artist.

Shrug, the "best" dyes all involve toxic chemical in their production and
they tend to leach out over time.

For this reason, SWMBO'd sticks to what she can create herself because of
the chemicals.

In anycase, "artists" tryng to colour match between commercial products
is a futile effort. not even the manufacturers manage it.

On Mon, 15 Jun 2020 17:55:07 -0400, Joy Beeson wrote:

On Sun, 14 Jun 2020 19:37:43 -0400, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

Our Mazda's color is Soul Red, a three layer paint job that's quite
beautiful. (I pick the cars, my wife picks the colors.)

You get to select the color of your car? When we went shopping for our
Tacoma, I wanted bright yellow, or if that wasn't available, fire-engine
red.

We got mist gray.

Lol, try asking for "white" these days.

Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 6/15/2020 5:55 PM, Joy Beeson wrote:
On Sun, 14 Jun 2020 19:37:43 -0400, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

Our Mazda's color is Soul Red, a three layer paint job that's quite
beautiful. (I pick the cars, my wife picks the colors.)

You get to select the color of your car? When we went shopping for
our Tacoma, I wanted bright yellow, or if that wasn't available,
fire-engine red.

We got mist gray.

Ah! The Invisibility Cloak of car colors!



The colour of worn pavement.