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#21
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I hope your friend recovers quickly, and fully from these injuries he
sustained. I can sympathize fully, as I had a somewhat similar occurrence happen to me when I was a teenager riding a relatively new English Road Bike I owned. One difference though, I went down due to Chain Skip, and not the Chain Breaking. Due to the Rear Derailleur Shifter Not being firmly adjusted/clamped (Friction Downtube Shifters), was barreling full tilt out of the saddle when the bike slipped out of a gear. Yup, went right over/through the bars just like your friend, but luckily, I did not break any bones, just numerous nasty deep scrapes all over my arms, hands, and legs when I hit the Ashphalt at about 30mph. I was bleeding like a pig, but was more worried about the bike! lol Luckily, only just very minor damage to my bike's front Brake Caliper. Your post is a very good reminder to us all, to carefully inspect/check chains, (And Shifting Systems/Cables/Brakes) frequently, as a snapped cable, or a Shifting system that cannot maintain proper gear selection will cause the very same disastrous results when really pedaling hard out of the saddle. Mark D. |
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#22
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Tom Sherman writes:
... This is a hard way to learn that joining a chain must be done with understanding of the operation and by using the proper tools... Is the Rohloff Revolver a "proper tool" that allows reusing pins or just really expensive? http://www.rohloffusa.com/pdf/revolver.pdf I haven't used one but had one in hand at the InterBike show. To me it seemed to be an expensive chain tool with no special advantages. I dodge that issue by not using extra narrow chains for cassette clusters that require such chains with pins that have practically no radius to assist re-insertion. I have the old chain pliers that have a push-out pin and a press-in pocket, side-by-side. Just squeeze the pliers and it's out and again an it's in. Jobst Brandt |
#23
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#24
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Jobst Brandt wrote:
Describing the fall only suggests sympathy for the rider but the essence of the event is that the chain separated with no material failure, something the title implies. The chain came apart and judging from the millions of chains in use that do not separate even with many times the load in this event, I am sure that this was a mechanical error. A crudely pushed in link pin can be inserted too far or not far enough, or by initially missing a side-plate hole, broach out the bore to make a loose fit. Another way to break a chain is to smack it hard on a rock while trail riding in the big ring. The impact spreads the plates then later on the chain comes apart. Robert |
#25
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On Wed, 15 Sep 2004 22:06:32 -0500, kantspel
wrote: So your saying I should probably replace that chain I repaired by stomping the pin back in with my foot? Unless you use precision tools like a rock and a rusty nail, be careful. JT **************************** Remove "remove" to reply Visit http://www.jt10000.com **************************** |
#26
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psycholist- It looks as if one plate came off the pin
and the chain pulled apart. No metal actually snapped. BRBR They make his chain with and without a "quick link" that can be adjusted by hand without a tool. BRBR No chain made today that uses a quick link can be reassembled w/o one, that is by pushing the pin back in with a tool. If you do that, you risk breaking it, just like he did, if he reinstalled it improperly. Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302 (303)440-3535 http://www.vecchios.com "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene" |
#27
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A Muzi wrote:
That didn't 'just happen'. A link was not joined properly. We strongly advise use of snaplinks and attempt to dissuade customers from setting rivets in modern chain exactly because of your and similar incidents. There are still a lot of riders who insist they don't need some sissy snaplink. They're perfectly capable of setting a measly chain rivet with the same tool they've used for 25 years thank you. Problem is, chain is different and setting a rivet now is just not safe. I've never used a snap link so maybe I'm missing something. But doesn't the snap link have to be connected to the rest of the chain initially by using a chain tool? If so, an improperly installed pin could still cause a failure. I admit I like the Shimano "special pin" method. Art Harris |
#28
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A Muzi wrote:
A Muzi wrote: We strongly advise use of snaplinks and attempt to dissuade customers from setting rivets in modern chain exactly because of your and similar incidents. There are still a lot of riders who insist they don't need some sissy snaplink. They're perfectly capable of setting a measly chain rivet with the same tool they've used for 25 years thank you. Problem is, chain is different and setting a rivet now is just not safe. kantspel wrote: So your saying I should probably replace that chain I repaired by stomping the pin back in with my foot? who needs sissy snaplinks or chaintools You should use a snaplink. Modern chain is harder. The pin/plate interface is tighter. The plates are thinner. Rivets can't be set poorly or unevenly without risk of separation. We see way too any rider injuries from poorly set rivets. Use a snaplink. That's all fine and well in a shop, but when your stranded without tools you have to make due. |
#29
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my shimano 9 speed chain has about 10,000miles on it. it still hasn' broken, even after a lot of standing standing starts and max torqu efforts(for fun, ~85ft lbs). i can't believe it held up to that sprinting from a dead stop on a hill in my 39x23. that's 3 times a much force on the chain compared to a flat sprint at speed. it sure would be ugly if the chain broke during a standing start. know, i am asking for it. i can tell you my rear wheel doesn't like th abuse - 3 broken spokes in 3 weeks. i think it just comes down to how well the chain was manufactured. som chains are built poor and will break -- velomanct |
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