Stronger rubber cement?

Gentlemen,

Is there something stronger than the usual rubber cement in the patch
kits? Ideally something that won't dry out so fast or where multiple
cheap small tubes are available.

The reason is that I sometimes have larger holes from side wall
blow-outs. Not inch-long gashes but one or two tenths of an inch long.
The tubes I use are super thick and, therefore, expensive. $15-20 each
and that's not something to be thrown out lightly. Instead of the li'l
REMA patches I need to use thicker rubber from an older sacrified tube
but this has to be vulcanized/cemented really well.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

try DT or Specialized.

or for example

https://www.google.com/#q=rubber+con...ement&tbm=shop

contact cement not rubber adhesive.

Henkel-Loctite has one last I looked.

Weldwood red is super contact cement but its a liquid not thickened liquid like Weldwood in the glass bottle which is OK.

On 2017-01-03 17:13, DATAKOLL MARINE RESEARCH wrote:
try DT or Specialized.

or for example

https://www.google.com/#q=rubber+con...ement&tbm=shop

contact cement not rubber adhesive.

Henkel-Loctite has one last I looked.

Weldwood red is super contact cement but its a liquid not thickened liquid like Weldwood in the glass bottle which is OK.


Thanks, I'll have to look into that. I read that contact cement doesn't
make for a pliable connection which is required on the side walls. Maybe
the people trying and reporting it on the web did something wrong though.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

https://www.google.com/#q=tire%20sid...%3Ayoutube.com

https://www.google.com/#q=tire+conta...vement&tbm=vid

could be a movement video in there….dig the tire machine !!!

no, sidewall patches are difficult as the sidewall flexes more than the center contact patch.

I could try images

https://www.google.com/search?site=i...k1.4Op_7Q5DHAA

On 1/3/2017 7:04 PM, Joerg wrote:
Gentlemen,

Is there something stronger than the usual rubber cement in
the patch kits? Ideally something that won't dry out so fast
or where multiple cheap small tubes are available.

The reason is that I sometimes have larger holes from side
wall blow-outs. Not inch-long gashes but one or two tenths
of an inch long. The tubes I use are super thick and,
therefore, expensive. $15-20 each and that's not something
to be thrown out lightly. Instead of the li'l REMA patches I
need to use thicker rubber from an older sacrified tube but
this has to be vulcanized/cemented really well.


See an auto parts house for Tech rubber cement in the steel
can. You might want their buffer solution too - very
effective for cleaning before your patch.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Right ! I forgotto... bought both from NAPA for a last try at rejoining boots to lugged soles.

Need jigsawing 2 squeeze together ply sheets closing top edges of the bathtub lugged sole onto the boot.

On Tue, 03 Jan 2017 17:04:40 -0800, Joerg
wrote:

Gentlemen,

Is there something stronger than the usual rubber cement in the patch
kits? Ideally something that won't dry out so fast or where multiple
cheap small tubes are available.

The reason is that I sometimes have larger holes from side wall
blow-outs. Not inch-long gashes but one or two tenths of an inch long.
The tubes I use are super thick and, therefore, expensive. $15-20 each
and that's not something to be thrown out lightly. Instead of the li'l
REMA patches I need to use thicker rubber from an older sacrified tube
but this has to be vulcanized/cemented really well.

My LBS usually has small sealed tubes of glue. When I see them I buy
four or five and when I open a sealed tube, in the kit on the bike, I
replace it with another sealed one as find the glue has dried up is
not quite so much of a catastrophe at home :-)

Or you might try contact cement what I suspect is what is in the usual
tire patching kit.

By the way, "vulcanizing" implies the use of heat, and sulphur, and I
remember when I was in high school working at a local gas station we
had a clamp that had a sort of cup as part of it. We glued the patch
on than clamped it and filled the cup with gasoline and lit it. When
everything had cooled down the patch seemed to be a part of the tube,
not something glued on.
See: http://tinyurl.com/jdvfgbu for a modern electrical device to do
the same thing.
--
cheers,

John B.

John B. wrote:
:On Tue, 03 Jan 2017 17:04:40 -0800, Joerg
:wrote:

:Gentlemen,
:
:Is there something stronger than the usual rubber cement in the patch
:kits? Ideally something that won't dry out so fast or where multiple
:cheap small tubes are available.
:
:The reason is that I sometimes have larger holes from side wall
:blow-outs. Not inch-long gashes but one or two tenths of an inch long.
:The tubes I use are super thick and, therefore, expensive. $15-20 each
:and that's not something to be thrown out lightly. Instead of the li'l
:REMA patches I need to use thicker rubber from an older sacrified tube
:but this has to be vulcanized/cemented really well.

:My LBS usually has small sealed tubes of glue. When I see them I buy
:four or five and when I open a sealed tube, in the kit on the bike, I
:replace it with another sealed one as find the glue has dried up is
:not quite so much of a catastrophe at home :-)

:Or you might try contact cement what I suspect is what is in the usual
:tire patching kit.

:By the way, "vulcanizing" implies the use of heat, and sulphur, and I

Vulcanizing may have the connotation of involving heat, but it's a chemical
reaction, which results in the sulphur in the rubber becoming
crosslinked. Patches, at least the good ones such as Rema and park,
are a multi-layered assembly. The top layers are for strength, the
bottom (closest to the tube) consists of unvulcanized rubber, mixed
with a vulcanizing ultra-accelerator (there are a number of zinc
thiols that are suitable, which ones are used are trade secrets. ZDDP
is typical, though). vulcanizing cement consists of a unvulcanized
rubber particles, a solvent to carry them, and a vulcanizing
activator. Cyclohexylamine is common, but there are others that will
work, and are less toxic. The activator reacts with the zinc thiol,
and causes the patch, the rubber in the cement, and the surface of
tube to become vulcanized. There's not much free sulphur in the tube,
because it's vulcanized, which is one of the reasons that it's
important to properly scarify the tube surface before patching; it
greatly increases the surface area of the patch. The reaction is not
instant, but it happens pretty fast at room temperature, and
continues for some time, until all the sulphur available has linke.d

The accelerator in the cement is one reason that tubes of glue
sometimes are just rubber, and not cement.



--
sig 56

On Wed, 4 Jan 2017 02:47:50 +0000 (UTC), David Scheidt
wrote:

John B. wrote:
:On Tue, 03 Jan 2017 17:04:40 -0800, Joerg
:wrote:

:Gentlemen,
:
:Is there something stronger than the usual rubber cement in the patch
:kits? Ideally something that won't dry out so fast or where multiple
:cheap small tubes are available.
:
:The reason is that I sometimes have larger holes from side wall
:blow-outs. Not inch-long gashes but one or two tenths of an inch long.
:The tubes I use are super thick and, therefore, expensive. $15-20 each
:and that's not something to be thrown out lightly. Instead of the li'l
:REMA patches I need to use thicker rubber from an older sacrified tube
:but this has to be vulcanized/cemented really well.

:My LBS usually has small sealed tubes of glue. When I see them I buy
:four or five and when I open a sealed tube, in the kit on the bike, I
:replace it with another sealed one as find the glue has dried up is
:not quite so much of a catastrophe at home :-)

:Or you might try contact cement what I suspect is what is in the usual
:tire patching kit.

:By the way, "vulcanizing" implies the use of heat, and sulphur, and I

Vulcanizing may have the connotation of involving heat, but it's a chemical
reaction, which results in the sulphur in the rubber becoming
crosslinked.

It is a chemical reaction that occurs very slowly and incompletely
without heat. Try mixing raw latex with powdered sulphur if you don't
believe it.

--
cheers,

John B.

John B. wrote:
:On Wed, 4 Jan 2017 02:47:50 +0000 (UTC), David Scheidt
wrote:

:John B. wrote:
::On Tue, 03 Jan 2017 17:04:40 -0800, Joerg
::wrote:
:
::Gentlemen,
::
::Is there something stronger than the usual rubber cement in the patch
::kits? Ideally something that won't dry out so fast or where multiple
::cheap small tubes are available.
::
::The reason is that I sometimes have larger holes from side wall
::blow-outs. Not inch-long gashes but one or two tenths of an inch long.
::The tubes I use are super thick and, therefore, expensive. $15-20 each
::and that's not something to be thrown out lightly. Instead of the li'l
::REMA patches I need to use thicker rubber from an older sacrified tube
::but this has to be vulcanized/cemented really well.
:
::My LBS usually has small sealed tubes of glue. When I see them I buy
::four or five and when I open a sealed tube, in the kit on the bike, I
::replace it with another sealed one as find the glue has dried up is
::not quite so much of a catastrophe at home :-)
:
::Or you might try contact cement what I suspect is what is in the usual
::tire patching kit.
:
::By the way, "vulcanizing" implies the use of heat, and sulphur, and I
:
:Vulcanizing may have the connotation of involving heat, but it's a chemical
:reaction, which results in the sulphur in the rubber becoming
:crosslinked.

:It is a chemical reaction that occurs very slowly and incompletely
:without heat. Try mixing raw latex with powdered sulphur if you don't
:believe it.

Yes, but fortunately the world has smart chemists who have invented
processes that work better than sulphur and heat do. Vulcanizing
accelerators are used in pretty much every rubber production process,
because it gives better results, is faster, and requires less energy.


--
sig 26