locknuts at the saddle

One area where I start to think locknuts are
better than regular nuts (the original part,
just hex, not dome nuts) is at the saddle.
The other day I was going without holding the
handlebar and suddenly the saddle got loose and
tilted back. As it happens the nut is partly
behind the saddle, so there is no room to get
in a socket to use a long ratchet shaft.
My longest 13 mm spanner is only ~17 cm, so to
pull tighter really stiffens up your entire
shoulder and neck. I suppose I could get
a longer spanner, or put it into a pipe, but
perhaps locknuts could also solve the issue?

--
underground experts united
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573

On Monday, June 12, 2017 at 4:36:39 PM UTC-7, Emanuel Berg wrote:
One area where I start to think locknuts are
better than regular nuts (the original part,
just hex, not dome nuts) is at the saddle.
The other day I was going without holding the
handlebar and suddenly the saddle got loose and
tilted back. As it happens the nut is partly
behind the saddle, so there is no room to get
in a socket to use a long ratchet shaft.
My longest 13 mm spanner is only ~17 cm, so to
pull tighter really stiffens up your entire
shoulder and neck. I suppose I could get
a longer spanner, or put it into a pipe, but
perhaps locknuts could also solve the issue?

--
underground experts united
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573

Surely you jest - I can break the edges off of a bolt with a wrench that long.

But from your description what are you riding - one of those obsolete British leather saddles?

On Tue, 13 Jun 2017 01:36:35 +0200, Emanuel Berg
wrote:

One area where I start to think locknuts are
better than regular nuts (the original part,
just hex, not dome nuts) is at the saddle.
The other day I was going without holding the
handlebar and suddenly the saddle got loose and
tilted back. As it happens the nut is partly
behind the saddle, so there is no room to get
in a socket to use a long ratchet shaft.
My longest 13 mm spanner is only ~17 cm, so to
pull tighter really stiffens up your entire
shoulder and neck. I suppose I could get
a longer spanner, or put it into a pipe, but
perhaps locknuts could also solve the issue?

Buy better hex-wrenches.
See: http://www.parktool.com/product/p-ha...rench-set-ph-1

I'm not recommending Park Tools but I bought hex-wrenches that look
exactly like the ones pictured, individually, for very reasonable
prices. I have 4 and that is all I've needed so far.


I would comment that as a bicycle doesn't exactly vibrate that it is
likely that lock nuts really aren't necessary. I've never had a seat
post come loose (for example :-)
--
Cheers,

John B.

On Tuesday, June 13, 2017 at 7:24:06 AM UTC-4, John B. wrote:
On Tue, 13 Jun 2017 01:36:35 +0200, Emanuel Berg
wrote:

One area where I start to think locknuts are
better than regular nuts (the original part,
just hex, not dome nuts) is at the saddle.
The other day I was going without holding the
handlebar and suddenly the saddle got loose and
tilted back. As it happens the nut is partly
behind the saddle, so there is no room to get
in a socket to use a long ratchet shaft.
My longest 13 mm spanner is only ~17 cm, so to
pull tighter really stiffens up your entire
shoulder and neck. I suppose I could get
a longer spanner, or put it into a pipe, but
perhaps locknuts could also solve the issue?

Buy better hex-wrenches.
See: http://www.parktool.com/product/p-ha...rench-set-ph-1

I'm not recommending Park Tools but I bought hex-wrenches that look
exactly like the ones pictured, individually, for very reasonable
prices. I have 4 and that is all I've needed so far.


I would comment that as a bicycle doesn't exactly vibrate that it is
likely that lock nuts really aren't necessary. I've never had a seat
post come loose (for example :-)
--
Cheers,

John B.

John, I think he's talkingabout nuts on a clamp-seat post holder not the better quality seat post with a hex-bolt. The type he has has a 13mm nut on either side of the saddle rail.. I don't see why the open end of a 13mm wrench/spanner won't fit in there and give him enough leverage to tighten the clamp sufficiently so that the saddle doesn't move on it's own.

Don't people check their bicycles periodically for loose bolts or nots or other wear? "An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure". "A stich in time saves nine".

Cheers

On Tuesday, June 13, 2017 at 4:24:06 AM UTC-7, John B. wrote:
On Tue, 13 Jun 2017 01:36:35 +0200, Emanuel Berg
wrote:

One area where I start to think locknuts are
better than regular nuts (the original part,
just hex, not dome nuts) is at the saddle.
The other day I was going without holding the
handlebar and suddenly the saddle got loose and
tilted back. As it happens the nut is partly
behind the saddle, so there is no room to get
in a socket to use a long ratchet shaft.
My longest 13 mm spanner is only ~17 cm, so to
pull tighter really stiffens up your entire
shoulder and neck. I suppose I could get
a longer spanner, or put it into a pipe, but
perhaps locknuts could also solve the issue?

Buy better hex-wrenches.
See: http://www.parktool.com/product/p-ha...rench-set-ph-1

I'm not recommending Park Tools but I bought hex-wrenches that look
exactly like the ones pictured, individually, for very reasonable
prices. I have 4 and that is all I've needed so far.


I would comment that as a bicycle doesn't exactly vibrate that it is
likely that lock nuts really aren't necessary. I've never had a seat
post come loose (for example :-)

I'm not sure how I take hex wrenches. If you make the wrench too hard it can knock the hex screw out by rounding out the interior if you over-tighten as most people do. So they make these hex wrenches a bit softer than the most common grades of bolts used on most bikes and the damn things wear out.

On Tue, 13 Jun 2017 05:30:54 -0700 (PDT), Sir Ridesalot
wrote:

On Tuesday, June 13, 2017 at 7:24:06 AM UTC-4, John B. wrote:
On Tue, 13 Jun 2017 01:36:35 +0200, Emanuel Berg
wrote:

One area where I start to think locknuts are
better than regular nuts (the original part,
just hex, not dome nuts) is at the saddle.
The other day I was going without holding the
handlebar and suddenly the saddle got loose and
tilted back. As it happens the nut is partly
behind the saddle, so there is no room to get
in a socket to use a long ratchet shaft.
My longest 13 mm spanner is only ~17 cm, so to
pull tighter really stiffens up your entire
shoulder and neck. I suppose I could get
a longer spanner, or put it into a pipe, but
perhaps locknuts could also solve the issue?

Buy better hex-wrenches.
See: http://www.parktool.com/product/p-ha...rench-set-ph-1

I'm not recommending Park Tools but I bought hex-wrenches that look
exactly like the ones pictured, individually, for very reasonable
prices. I have 4 and that is all I've needed so far.


I would comment that as a bicycle doesn't exactly vibrate that it is
likely that lock nuts really aren't necessary. I've never had a seat
post come loose (for example :-)
--
Cheers,

John B.

John, I think he's talkingabout nuts on a clamp-seat post holder not the better quality seat post with a hex-bolt. The type he has has a 13mm nut on either side of the saddle rail.. I don't see why the open end of a 13mm wrench/spanner won't fit in there and give him enough leverage to tighten the clamp sufficiently so that the saddle doesn't move on it's own.

Don't people check their bicycles periodically for loose bolts or nots or other wear? "An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure". "A stich in time saves nine".

Cheers

Well I'm probably wrong as I don't have any bikes with hex nuts so I
guess I assumed "Bicycle = Internal wrenching". But still, if you
can't tighten a nut/bolt tight enough to hold then the addition of a
lock nut isn't going to add anything to the holding power of the
nut/bolt, as to properly install a lock nut one first tightens the
primary nut and then torques the lock nut against the primary nut.
..
--
Cheers,

John B.

On Tuesday, June 13, 2017 at 5:50:55 PM UTC-7, John B. wrote:
On Tue, 13 Jun 2017 05:30:54 -0700 (PDT), Sir Ridesalot
wrote:

On Tuesday, June 13, 2017 at 7:24:06 AM UTC-4, John B. wrote:
On Tue, 13 Jun 2017 01:36:35 +0200, Emanuel Berg
wrote:

One area where I start to think locknuts are
better than regular nuts (the original part,
just hex, not dome nuts) is at the saddle.
The other day I was going without holding the
handlebar and suddenly the saddle got loose and
tilted back. As it happens the nut is partly
behind the saddle, so there is no room to get
in a socket to use a long ratchet shaft.
My longest 13 mm spanner is only ~17 cm, so to
pull tighter really stiffens up your entire
shoulder and neck. I suppose I could get
a longer spanner, or put it into a pipe, but
perhaps locknuts could also solve the issue?

Buy better hex-wrenches.
See: http://www.parktool.com/product/p-ha...rench-set-ph-1

I'm not recommending Park Tools but I bought hex-wrenches that look
exactly like the ones pictured, individually, for very reasonable
prices. I have 4 and that is all I've needed so far.


I would comment that as a bicycle doesn't exactly vibrate that it is
likely that lock nuts really aren't necessary. I've never had a seat
post come loose (for example :-)
--
Cheers,

John B.

John, I think he's talkingabout nuts on a clamp-seat post holder not the better quality seat post with a hex-bolt. The type he has has a 13mm nut on either side of the saddle rail.. I don't see why the open end of a 13mm wrench/spanner won't fit in there and give him enough leverage to tighten the clamp sufficiently so that the saddle doesn't move on it's own.

Don't people check their bicycles periodically for loose bolts or nots or other wear? "An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure". "A stich in time saves nine".

Cheers

Well I'm probably wrong as I don't have any bikes with hex nuts so I
guess I assumed "Bicycle = Internal wrenching". But still, if you
can't tighten a nut/bolt tight enough to hold then the addition of a
lock nut isn't going to add anything to the holding power of the
nut/bolt, as to properly install a lock nut one first tightens the
primary nut and then torques the lock nut against the primary nut.

Unless his bolt is bottoming out in the threads.