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Generator light optics



 
 
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  #11  
Old October 14th 04, 06:07 PM
Zog The Undeniable
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Frank Krygowski wrote:

I've thought about machining a circumferential groove in a generator
wheel and putting a thick O-ring into it, to let the O-ring run on the
tire. (In fact, ISTR getting a glance at a generator that seemed to
have something like this running on the rim's braking surface, rather
than the tire.)


There are quite a few generators with such a roller. Nordlicht, for
example, which is probably the one you saw. Some people run it on the
rim, some on the tyre.

Busch und Muller make a weatherproof *wire brush* roller for their
bottle generators. It's not advisable unless the tyre has a proper
dynamo track, as it will certainly eat through a skinwall, and probably
a plain gumwall, in no time.
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  #12  
Old October 16th 04, 04:23 PM
Stephen Harding
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Zog The Undeniable wrote:

Busch und Muller make a weatherproof *wire brush* roller for their
bottle generators. It's not advisable unless the tyre has a proper
dynamo track, as it will certainly eat through a skinwall, and probably
a plain gumwall, in no time.


I have the Busch & Muller generator, but have never had the need
for the wire brush roller. The generator has a tension adjuster
that seems to do the trick for keeping drive roller firmly against
the wheel.

Sometimes bad bumps will cause a slight dimming of light but nothing
to really complain about.

It's a very impressive generator! Even more impressive is the
Lumotec 3W light! A very focused beam makes all the difference
for road commuting this time of year and once DST goes away in
another couple weeks. Wouldn't have thought a "mere" 3W would
be so bright.


SMH


  #13  
Old October 27th 04, 04:06 AM
Mike Kruger
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A couple of weeks ago I asked "Are there any simple ways to improve the light
output of old Schwinn-approved generator sets?" The one I rescued from
the trash bin was so much less bright than my other, "very good but
expensive" generator (Busch and Muller Dymotec S6 and Bisy light).
Here's what I did based on your advice.

Wiring: I rewired the front light using the double wire from an old charger.
This double wiring meant I was not depending on the steel frame for a
ground.

Bulb: I had trouble finding what I wanted locally, so I ordered some 6V
3W screw-in halogen bulbs from Reflectalite
http://www.reflectalite.com/
This change from 2.4W front, 0.6W rear to 3W front meant that I
disconnected the rear red light, but I prefer a blinking red light anyway.

My initial test was before a full moon. With just the wiring
change, the light would not even wash out the shadows from the moonlight
until very close to the bike. With all the changes, the light is much
brighter, and has gone from "be seen" quality to being suitable for
urban biking. I hope not to be able to make any statements about bulb life
or any side effects of the change to a halogen bulb for quite a while

The illumination is not as nice as my Bisy light (similar to a Lumotec).
This is probably because there is more scatter.
However one purpose was to improve the light for my college daughter;
she's had one bike stolen and her bike has been partially stripped
twice. I don't think the old Schwinn-approved generator setup is much of
a thief magnet, but I fear a good-quality German light would be. I think
this solution will work fine for her.

Thanks to those who posted.
  #14  
Old October 27th 04, 03:17 PM
Tom Keats
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In article ,
(Mike Kruger) writes:

Wiring: I rewired the front light using the double wire from an old charger.
This double wiring meant I was not depending on the steel frame for a
ground.


2-conductor Lamp cord works nicely too. Unless it's that
horrible brown colour. Lamp cord is nice & relaxed when
it's well aged.

Tinning the ends seems to make hooking-up more difficult
than just leaving the ends naked.

I've learned the hard way that grounding to the frame can be
prone to intermittency in the rain.

Bulb: I had trouble finding what I wanted locally, so I ordered some 6V
3W screw-in halogen bulbs from Reflectalite
http://www.reflectalite.com/
This change from 2.4W front, 0.6W rear to 3W front meant that I
disconnected the rear red light, but I prefer a blinking red light anyway.


Might as well disconnect the rear light. If the front bulb does
burn out, it takes the rear bulb out with it (assuming simple
wiring with no voltage protection.)


cheers,
Tom

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