What tools to extract/install Surly hub cartridge bearings?

Surly "New" (2002) hubs use 7901 12x24x6 mm cartridge bearings. I see
that spares are easily purchased. Do these require special puller and
installation tools?

Ron Abramson wrote:
Surly "New" (2002) hubs use 7901 12x24x6 mm cartridge bearings. I
see
that spares are easily purchased. Do these require special puller
and
installation tools?

Nope. Like most cartridge bearing hubs, you get the old ones out by
removing any locknuts and, while holding onto the wheel, whacking
either side of the axle against a wooden bench (or a block of wood
placed on the floor). Sometimes you gotta whack pretty hard. This
will pop one bearing out. Put the axle through the remaining bearing
and whack that one out. Install the new ones by lining up the new
bearing with the hub, place one of the old bearings on top of it, and
whack it in place with a rubber mallet. You can buy bearing pullers
and presses, but there's no advantage to using them with Surly hubs.
Check that the bearings have grease inside them (peel back the rubber
seal with something pointy); one of my Surly hubs came with very little
grease inside. Coat the new cartridges in grease to ease installation
and prevent them from corroding onto anything.

-Vee

I forgot a detail of installation: you need to put the axle through the
hub once you've installed one bearing and then use a socket of
appropriate diameter to drive the second bearing into the hub.

On Fri, 04 Feb 2005 08:18:29 -0800, Vee wrote:

I forgot a detail of installation: you need to put the axle through the
hub once you've installed one bearing and then use a socket of
appropriate diameter to drive the second bearing into the hub.

If I am understanding you correctly, I'd say my axles work differently -
the bearings are locked in place by sleeves that screw onto the axle from
the outside. Take one off and the axle slides out completely. I guess
this is why they're considered "adjustable." You could use the end of the
axle like a punch, to poke out the bearings from the inside. Since my
bearings still have some life to them I think I'll wait before doing this.

Ron Abramson wrote:
On Fri, 04 Feb 2005 08:18:29 -0800, Vee wrote:

I forgot a detail of installation: you need to put the axle through
the
hub once you've installed one bearing and then use a socket of
appropriate diameter to drive the second bearing into the hub.

If I am understanding you correctly, I'd say my axles work
differently -
the bearings are locked in place by sleeves that screw onto the axle
from
the outside. Take one off and the axle slides out completely. I
guess
this is why they're considered "adjustable." You could use the end
of the
axle like a punch, to poke out the bearings from the inside. Since my
bearings still have some life to them I think I'll wait before doing
this.

You're right, I was thinking about the older style Surly hub, where the
axle had raised sections that popped the bearings out when hit from the
side. With the newer ones, it can be a bit harder to remove the
bearings. Punching them out can cause the inner race to break free,
leaving the outer portion in the hub (which can also be removed with a
punch or chisel, but it's a pain). There are tools made for this:
http://www.ison-distribution.com/iso...php?part=2CV28
but they'll sometimes break apart a corroded bearing, too, so I think a
punch (or axle, if you don't damage the threads) is as good as
anything. Reinstalling the new bearings is very easy because you can
use the old bearings (or appropriate socket) on both sides without the
axle getting in the way.
-Vee

It occurred to me that you could put the sleeve on backwards and use it as
a removal tool. So I gave it a try and it worked great. As I suspected,
the drive side bearing was caked with rust.

On Fri, 04 Feb 2005 08:18:29 -0800, Vee wrote:
I forgot a detail of installation: you need to put the axle through the
hub once you've installed one bearing and then use a socket of
appropriate diameter to drive the second bearing into the hub.

Ron Abramson wrote:
If I am understanding you correctly, I'd say my axles work differently -
the bearings are locked in place by sleeves that screw onto the axle from
the outside. Take one off and the axle slides out completely. I guess
this is why they're considered "adjustable." You could use the end of the
axle like a punch, to poke out the bearings from the inside. Since my
bearings still have some life to them I think I'll wait before doing this.

This works well:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfr...t/HUBCUPTL.JPG

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971