Schlumpf button fixings

rob.northcott wrote:
I knew there'd be a catch. Still, I would think you'd get away with a
bit of low-strength threadlock, just to stop it falling off so quickly
if the grub screw came loose. Couldn't you hold the shaft from the
other side to unscrew the button?

On second thoughts, perhaps it's too far recessed to be able to hold it
from the other side.

Rob



The only way you would be able to hold it from the other side is if the
button and grub screw on the other side were tighter than the
loctitened button on the other side. But if I could get the buttons
and grub screws tighter than loctite, then I wouldn't have a problem
:-)

STM


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Spencer - my edit was too slow... what about if there was a slot in the
ends of the rod?

Rob


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rob.northcott wrote:
Spencer - my edit was too slow... what about if there was a slot in the
ends of the rod?

Rob



Is a teeny weeny rod, 2 or 3 mm diameter, I'd think it might be hard
not to strip the slot on something so small?

It's very very hard to hold the rod from the other side, I spent some
time trying to do so when I had a stuck on button.

Joe


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Grub screw is an interesting term. I haven't heard that UK version
before. In the US we call them set screws. From the excellent diagram
it appears that the function of the grub screw is to bind the inner
threads of the button against the outer threads of the shaft. Since the
grub screw has no head, the allen wrench required to screw it in is
very small so there will be a limit to the torque you can safely apply.
Putting Loctite in that mechanism looks risky now that I see how it
works. It would have to be applied to the shaft, not the grub screw. If
any got on the grub screw (I'm going to keep writing that...I like that
name) it would be difficult to remove because of the limited torque you
can apply with the tiny allen wrench.

In order to keep grub screws from working loose they are often stacked
if there is enough thread room. You put the first grub screw in to
apply a force to the shaft and bind the button threads onto the shaft
threads. Then insert the second grub screw to bind against the first to
keep it from working loose. In the diagram there doesn't appear to be
enough room for two grub screws. Also, the danger in this is forgetting
that there is one grub screw buried beneath the top grub screw and
doing something stupid when you try to take it apart. Believe me, I
know this from experience.

Another approach would be to use teflon pipe thread tape (a very, very
small amount) on the grub screw threads. This makes it act like a nylon
tipped screw so it is tight going in and tight coming out. It reduces
the possibility of the grub screw working free from vibration. It also
takes more torque to screw in and unscrew so that may be a problem.

Thanks for letting me write grub screw grub screw grub screw grub screw
grub screw over and over again. I'll be using that a lot from now on.


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Thought about getting a screw that's thread compatible but with a proper
big head on it that you can apply lots of torque to?

Alternatively, have you thought about putting tape over the top of the
hole so the grub screw can't fall out so easily?


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harper wrote:
Grub screw is an interesting term. I haven't heard that UK version
before. In the US we call them set screws.



Set screw also works in the UK, but c'mon, it looks like a little grub
doesn't it?


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kington99 wrote:
Set screw also works in the UK, but c'mon, it looks like a little grub
doesn't it?


I thought a set screw was what most people (including me) would call a
bolt - i.e. a thing with a head and a shaft, but where the thread goes
all the way up to the head. Apparently if the thread stops before the
head, so there's a smooth bit of shaft, it's a bolt - or something like
that. My engineer wife is always correcting me when I call things
bolts

A grub screw is probably a subset of set screws by that definition, I
suppose.

Rob


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STM

On the button you found, was the grub screw still in it?

It seems, from your drawing, that the pressure put on the button in
order to shift, counteracts the small amount of jam force offered by
the grub screw against the shaft.

My guess is that you are losing the right-side buttons, because the
force on the button "stops" it from moving forward, and thus unscrews
from the shaft. The left side upon pushing the button while moving
forward would actually tighten the force betwen the grub screw and
shaft.

Maybe the right side needs to be left-handed threads? Just my .02


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On the button I found, the grub screw was still in. I don't think that
losing the grub screw is the problem, as it only has to undo a fraction
of a turn before the pressure is taken off. Once this happens, the
grub screw and button have no forces acting on them to separate,
however, the button will then be free to unscrew from the shaft.

As for cutting a slot in the end of the shaft, well, as Joe pointed
out, it is very very small, and would be virtually impossible.

I have taken some photos of the various bits, so I'll upload them later
for everyone to look at. In the mean time, I'm going to try some PTFE
tape on the shaft so see if that works ok.

STM


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semach.the.monkey wrote:
In the mean time, I'm going to try some PTFE tape on the shaft so see if
that works ok.





Try to get the tape on the grub screw as well. Anything to help bind
these threads so they don't work loose.


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