replace crankset bearing on gear side

AMuzi writes:

some frames have protruding tubes inside the shell

This doesn't. Where the "tubes" are (are not), there
are holes (three of them, I think). Those shouldn't be
a problem. On the contrary I thought I could use them
but inserting just a bit the bent axle part, perhaps
creating some minimum but still extra space. But it is
the exact same problem wherever I put the axle. Are
you sure one isn't supposed to remove the cog side
cone do to this? I agree it is a stupid design but how
else?

--
underground experts united

On 2/19/2015 12:38 PM, Emanuel Berg wrote:
AMuzi writes:

This is a 100+ year old design, expressly made to be
serviced easily with common tools.

Well, everything was easy with common tools until
this. Can you confirm the dimensions are that of the
Ashtabula crank?

Pull the crank to the right and pull the bearing
retainer out against the right cone.

There are no parts that influence the crank being
stuck except for the cone at the cog side and the axle
itself.

The cone is part outside of the shell to the side, and
part inside of the shell as a round extra layer, all
stuck to the frame.

Everything else is either removed or hanging loose
around the cog side arm, but not influencing the
situation because the bar is stuck on the inner side
of the cog side cone:


----------. -- this hits cone inner floor/wall/ceiling
:
`----------

Now tip the right crank end away from the bicycle
and turn the crank until you find the best point at
which to sneak the crank through the bicycle. (some
frames have protruding tubes inside the shell).

Use finesse, not force.

I have now for many hours rotated and fiddled with the
crank in all directions possible. What I can the the
inner cone circle is indeed a circle so there isn't a
position which would be beneficial. Looking at the
axle in all positions along the rim, it doesn't come
out more at one position and less at another either,
it gets stuck at the same place (see figure)
everywhere I can put it.

The bike is a Crescent Trekking. It says "Made in
Sweden".



I just happen to have a nice OPC demo handy.
Here's a photo:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/ashta.jpg

Is yours like that?

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On 2/19/2015 12:38 PM, Emanuel Berg wrote:
AMuzi writes:

This is a 100+ year old design, expressly made to be
serviced easily with common tools.

Well, everything was easy with common tools until
this. Can you confirm the dimensions are that of the
Ashtabula crank?

Pull the crank to the right and pull the bearing
retainer out against the right cone.

There are no parts that influence the crank being
stuck except for the cone at the cog side and the axle
itself.

The cone is part outside of the shell to the side, and
part inside of the shell as a round extra layer, all
stuck to the frame.

Everything else is either removed or hanging loose
around the cog side arm, but not influencing the
situation because the bar is stuck on the inner side
of the cog side cone:


----------. -- this hits cone inner floor/wall/ceiling
:
`----------

Now tip the right crank end away from the bicycle
and turn the crank until you find the best point at
which to sneak the crank through the bicycle. (some
frames have protruding tubes inside the shell).

Use finesse, not force.

I have now for many hours rotated and fiddled with the
crank in all directions possible. What I can the the
inner cone circle is indeed a circle so there isn't a
position which would be beneficial. Looking at the
axle in all positions along the rim, it doesn't come
out more at one position and less at another either,
it gets stuck at the same place (see figure)
everywhere I can put it.

The bike is a Crescent Trekking. It says "Made in
Sweden".


ISTR something odd about the crank used in Crescents.
Can't recall what that was.
Does your bike look like this?
http://www.classicrendezvous.com/Swe...-hallstrom.htm

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

AMuzi writes:

I just happen to have a nice OPC demo handy. Here's
a photo: http://www.yellowjersey.org/ashta.jpg

Is yours like that?

Not exactly but close enough I would say.

My cog doesn't have those fancy flame holes but the
principle should be the same with the small button to
hold it.

The axle looks the same as do the loose parts with
some minor differences at most, *except* for the
depicted ball-bearing which has not as many, but
bigger balls (9?), while mine have ~15 which are put
much closer together.

--
underground experts united

AMuzi writes:

ISTR something odd about the crank used in
Crescents. Can't recall what that was. Does your
bike look like this?

http://www.classicrendezvous.com/Swe...-hallstrom.htm

Close, but mine is more modern and sporty. That looks
great though. Anyway I'll make sure you guys get a
picture of mine sometimes soon...

--
underground experts united

Bergoid, try lowering or raising axle parallel to ground or with tilt at one end....when sliding axle out.

BTW, the axle does not come out with cog end trailing.

On Thursday, February 19, 2015 at 7:32:50 PM UTC-5, Emanuel Berg wrote:
AMuzi writes:

ISTR something odd about the crank used in
Crescents. Can't recall what that was. Does your
bike look like this?

http://www.classicrendezvous.com/Swe...-hallstrom.htm

Close, but mine is more modern and sporty. That looks
great though. Anyway I'll make sure you guys get a
picture of mine sometimes soon...

--
underground experts united

Take the bike minus the wheels to a shop and have the mechanic show you how few seconds it takes to actually remove this crank.

I'd like to see an image of your bike as it looks as you're trying to get the crank out as it shouldn't be hard at all to take out the crank.

Cheers

Sir Ridesalot writes:

Take the bike minus the wheels to a shop and have
the mechanic show you how few seconds it takes to
actually remove this crank.

Yes, I'll do that first thing Monday.

I'd like to see an image of your bike as it looks as
you're trying to get the crank out as it shouldn't
be hard at all to take out the crank.

No, I believe you from the way you all describe it.
I'll get you a photo when I get hold of a camera.

If one looks through the shell from the other side and
looks at the cone, i.e. within the shell, is it
possible to see the "slot" by which you have to
position the crank to get it out?

Because I see an even circle all the way and the crank
hits it the same way in every position along the
circumference. There is one position I didn't try
because I can't get there as then, the cog makes
contact with the frame. (But that position looks the
same - besides why would anyone do it like that?)

--
underground experts united

On Friday, February 20, 2015 at 7:35:59 PM UTC-5, Emanuel Berg wrote:
Sir Ridesalot writes:

Take the bike minus the wheels to a shop and have
the mechanic show you how few seconds it takes to
actually remove this crank.

Yes, I'll do that first thing Monday.

I'd like to see an image of your bike as it looks as
you're trying to get the crank out as it shouldn't
be hard at all to take out the crank.

No, I believe you from the way you all describe it.
I'll get you a photo when I get hold of a camera.

If one looks through the shell from the other side and
looks at the cone, i.e. within the shell, is it
possible to see the "slot" by which you have to
position the crank to get it out?

Because I see an even circle all the way and the crank
hits it the same way in every position along the
circumference. There is one position I didn't try
because I can't get there as then, the cog makes
contact with the frame. (But that position looks the
same - besides why would anyone do it like that?)

--
underground experts united

Gads! It should be very sinple. Turn the bike upside down then rotate the cog side of the crank (the cog is actually a chainwheel) up and over the bottom bracket shell. This should b4 a very simple thing to do.

Good luck and cheers.