replace crankset bearing on gear side

Sir Ridesalot quotes:

... The left cone usually has grooves that allow you
to turn it with a flat-bladed screwdriver.

I don't know if this is the part where I'm stuck (no
pun intended). Is the "cone" the metal ring that I'm
talking about? The rings are one on each side of the
crank hole, very tight with the frame but not of the
same material.

When I try to push the axle out on the cog side the
middle step of the axle, where it is bent to what
becomes the crank arm, this part makes contact with
the metal ring and is thus not possible to push out
(what I can see) without removing the metal ring.

(The same thing would be the case on the other side,
only that cannot be done anyway as the cog etc. cannot
be pushed through the hole.)

It looks like this:

----------. -- this part hits the ring
:
'__________

--
underground experts united

Sir Ridesalot writes:

You DON't need to take anyting off the chainwheel
(cog) side to remove that cr4ank; unless you have a
chainguard on it.

I don't, and I haven't removed anything, but that
isn't possible either (again what I can see), however
if it were then I would do that because if so couldn't
I just replace the bearing that way?

--
underground experts united

Sir Ridesalot writes:

You DON't need to take anyting off the chainwheel
(cog) side to remove that cr4ank; unless you have a
chainguard on it.

I've been thinking about this. I could gently disform
the ball retainer, then slide it through the hole to
the cog side, and then get it back into its original
shape.

--
underground experts united

On Sunday, February 15, 2015 at 10:11:14 PM UTC-5, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Sunday, February 15, 2015 at 9:36:21 PM UTC-5, wrote:
read Brown's information and hyperlinks then read

https://www.google.com/#q=astabula+cranks

on Brown's photo you will see bearings held in with a large washer on crank held onto the BB/frame with a large chrome nut...

your description is a cup attached to BB/frame that is not connected to the axle ?

then this would probably thread onto the BB/frame. that would need heat for removal, heat from a propane torch.

If you look thru Google Images for: Ashtabula crank assembly...you should come across your set up....which is findable in Google Shopping

always turn the torch OFF when done or place gas canister in a SECURE position. The torch may be lit but you may not see flame.00

Geeze man stop with the propane torch advice as most bottom brackets do NOT need to be heated to be taken apart!

Cheers

YO the poster said he sees

GIANT BATS !

torchem...what the hey do I know ?

this is a learning process

feel free to offer abstruse advice as long as it's conducive

its like the rear disc brake pads.....

Bergman sez the cups are attached to frame....???

and these here cups doahn come off n this is the problem..

no doubto yawl have suffered similar intransigencies

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heuristic

writes:

Bergman sez the cups are attached to frame....???

and these here cups doahn come off n this is the
problem..

Exactly, good wrap-up.

--
underground experts united

Sir Ridesalot writes:

You DON'T need to remove the bearing cups to get the
crank out. that thing on the crank in Step #6 is
simply the dust cap that fits over the right hand
bearings. You can still see the cups in the shell.

Turn the crank so the arms are verical and you
should be able to rotate the crank out as in Step #6
and Step #7.

OK. It looks like the bike is upside down, the crank
arm is down on the cog side, and then he rotates
toward himself while on the cog side. I already tried
pulling but tomorrow I'll do it exactly like that and
with more power.

--
underground experts united

Sir Ridesalot writes:

By the way, you ONLY need to remove the cups if
you're going to replace them with new ones.

Yes, that makes sense especially if they are not
needed to be removed to fix the crank

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underground experts united

On Monday, February 16, 2015 at 8:57:43 PM UTC-5, Emanuel Berg wrote:
Sir Ridesalot writes:

By the way, you ONLY need to remove the cups if
you're going to replace them with new ones.

Yes, that makes sense especially if they are not
needed to be removed to fix the crank

--
underground experts united

replace everything.

removing the crank DOES NOT REQUIRE FORCE

you see the washer behind the axle nut ? the washer holds the bearings not the cup

writes:

you see the washer behind the axle nut ? the washer
holds the bearings not the cup

Yes, now the issue isn't that but removing the entire
axle out of the shell.

I'll be back tomorrow with a report how the new (to
me) insights fell out.

--
underground experts united