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#61
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Noise from new Sunrace cassette
John B. slocomb wrote:
On Mon, 26 Nov 2018 14:24:45 -0800, Joerg wrote: On 2018-11-26 14:01, Sir Ridesalot wrote: On Monday, November 26, 2018 at 4:26:53 PM UTC-5, duane wrote: Snipped Typically if I start off on a decent lenght ride, I like to have a reasonable expectation of getting back without having to try to rebuild the bike on the side of the road. To hack my cassette to save one cog makes no sense to me. Frugality is a good thing for the planet and all but this is sounding close to OCD. I have a couple of bicycle wheels that still have Uniglide Cassette bodies on them. A few years ago I came across a bicycle shop that was a bit outside of a city in our area. that shop HAD a number of brand new Uniglide 7 speed cassettes at $5.00 per cassette. I said HAD because I bough every one they had. I even have a couple of NOS Uniglide cassette bodies. Out of curiosity, what are UG cassette bodies? The UG cassettes I had, even before a hack, consisted only of cogs, spacers and three screws that held it all together (but which weren't really needed and removed by me). ... I'm set for the rest of my years and won't need to hack apart and Dremel Hyperglide cassettes to replace those Uniglide cogs once they wear out on both sides. If I get to the point where I need lower gears I'll just swap out the bottom bracket spindle 0r cartridge and add a triple chainring crankset. I have a number of those on hand waiting for that day. That'll be very hard on the chain and cogs if you ride a lot of hills. Depends on rider weight and load, of course. Speaking of hacking cassettes. I have one bicycle wheel that has a 9-speed hacked cassette with a corncob cluster 11 to 19 teeth being shifted with friction downtube shifters which is good because one of the cogs I could not find on my spare 9 speed cassettes was take from and 8 speed cassette. I have no problems shifting to or from any of those cogs. It's a fun bike to ride on gently rolling hills. On my long distance road bike I have the Campagnolo Veloce 30 - 42 - 52 triple crank and find that 30 teeth ring useful at times in strong headwinds, steep hills or if I'm really tired. However, I think some people like Joerg simply enjoy making something work with something it wasn't designed to work with. Oh yeah. Sometimes you get a little bonus in the wake. For example, this new cassette came with 11T and 13T as smallest cogs. Because of its construction these had to stay in unless I'd do a more serious hack on the big grinder. Turns out that 52/11 acts like an overdrive in a car and if the wind picks up a wee bit I can shift to 13T. Currently I am missing 15T so I accelerate for the last bit on the 18T, then shift to the 13T for a "mild overdrive". It suits me well because I am not used to spinning. Interesting. A 52/11 with a 23mm tire at a moderate 90 RPM crank speed is about 54 KPH or 33 MPH. I read that TdF level riders will ride a 36 K time trial in the 29 - 31 MPH range. Not to butt in but your comparing some unknown distance of a probably top speed over unknown grade and an arbitrary rpm with a pro’s average speed over some probably different distance and grade. I’ve certainly used my 52/11 in the hills and I am definitely not gunning for the TDF. Though I wouldn’t hack my cassette to achieve what I can buy off the shelf. -- duane |
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#62
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Noise from new Sunrace cassette
wrote:
On Tuesday, November 27, 2018 at 3:11:29 AM UTC+1, jbeattie wrote: On Monday, November 26, 2018 at 5:08:17 PM UTC-8, Sir Ridesalot wrote: On Monday, November 26, 2018 at 7:51:12 PM UTC-5, Joerg wrote: On 2018-11-26 16:27, jbeattie wrote: On Monday, November 26, 2018 at 2:12:22 PM UTC-8, Joerg wrote: On 2018-11-26 13:26, Duane wrote: On 26/11/2018 4:18 PM, jbeattie wrote: On Monday, November 26, 2018 at 12:28:11 PM UTC-8, Joerg wrote: On 2018-11-25 17:56, jbeattie wrote: On Sunday, November 25, 2018 at 3:38:44 PM UTC-8, Sir Ridesalot wrote: On Sunday, November 25, 2018 at 4:24:40 PM UTC-5, jbeattie wrote: [...] And for Sir, you can't flip HG -- at least not without grinding. I just went and tried flipping a cog from a junk freewheel sitting in my basement. It's a no-go. I'll go try again just to make sure I'm not missing anything. -- Jay Beattie. I'm NOT talking about flipping a HG cog onto a UG freehub. I'm talking about flipping a HG cog on a HG freehub. Which can be done. The HG cogs I modded to go on UG hubs can be mounted both ways, also on HG hubs. CHeers I can't get a HG cassette cog to fit on a HG freehub body if I flip the cog. The notches are not symmetrical. After a little dance with a Dremel you can. Yes, if you grind off the largest tab, you can do practically anything -- with your slop-fit sprocket transmitting torque through probably 10% less surface area with the high gear stopped off because its worn out. And hey, why not use four less spokes on each wheel, no bar tape, one brake, a hose clamp in lieu of a proper headset nut, etc., etc. You aren't supposed to grind off all of it. Besides, even if you did it wouldn't make a difference. I was originally talking about flipping a HG sprocket on a HG freehub body. If you grind down the wide tab and flip it over, you've lost contact surface. You would not lose contact surface on a UG body -- you would just have a worn-out threaded sprocket to contend with. On one out of nine splines. Big deal. I am not trying to win the Tour de France or hammer up Passo Del Mortirolo with several growlers on the rear rack. And if having a six-speed dumpster-bike is O.K., why on earth are you complaining about a little growling coming from your new pie-plate sprocket? You should be happy if the wheels turn. And you still can't fit fenders with reasonably-sized tires, so enjoy the rainy season. Of course this bike can have fenders, the frame is even prepared for that. Never saw the need though. On the rear the top connector of the panniers acts as a fender. You said you could barely fit 25mm tires on that bike. No? Yep. Good enough for the rides I do with this bike. Actually, since I now have a derailer extender which allows me to ease off on the B-screw I can move the wheel farther back and possibly mount 28mm tire. No hardcore CX tires but maybe this kind: https://www.amazon.com/Kenda-Karvs-F.../dp/B008823EB4 Regarding dumpster bikes you'd be surprised for how much money some of these old frames go. I will never trade my Reynolds steel frame for a plastics bike. Then you should treat it with respect. Respect to me is to use a technical object to the fullest. Including hard use and this bike has seen plenty of that. Forest autobahns and all that. ... BTW, have you tried a modern CF bike? A decent modern aluminum road frame? I've owned five custom steel frames, many aluminum frames and now CF bikes. I would take a first generation Cannondale over my '70s-80s custom steel frames. In fact, that's just what I did. I broke a custom Columbus SP racing frame and got a quick Cannondale replacement frame from a local shop to continue the racing season. That was 1984, and I liked it better than the bike it replaced. I love riding my Emonda, and the old CAAD 9 still brings a smile to my face, but that belongs to my son now. I'm sure I would enjoy a nice modern steel frame, too, but I'm happy with the current line-up. I have ridden CF and aluminum road bikes. My MTB is aluminum because when I bought it they all were. My favorite is still steel. As for CF I am pretty sure I'd break it. Typically if I start off on a decent lenght ride, I like to have a reasonable expectation of getting back without having to try to rebuild the bike on the side of the road. To hack my cassette to save one cog makes no sense to me. Frugality is a good thing for the planet and all but this is sounding close to OCD. I've never had any issue whatsoever with hacked cassettes. Or any other hack for that matter. What I had problems with was "professionally" made stuff. You need better OE. I had an old touring bike with a threaded headset that would come loose, so I got a Gorilla Headlock -- which also eliminated the need to carry a HS wrench on tours. No hose clamps. Yeah, I can surely buy a new headset. However, the hose clamp took minutes to apply and does the job. As Pa Kettle said, I'll get to it. One of these days. In fact, the hose-clamped steerer set on my road bike holds up better than the newfangled modern one on my MT which needs occasional adjustment. The compression nut and stem clamp serve the same purpose as a hose clamp and have more contact area. If you have issues, then it is because of inadequate torque or a poorly faced stem or spacer. I am by far not the only one who had to constantly re-tighten the Shimano 600 headset no matter how hard you torque the counter nut. Well, not anymore. On smooth asphalt it's all ok but it got loose on gravel roads, rough surface roads or dirt roads. Nowadays you see that problem less and less but that's because hardly anyone has Shimano 600 anymore. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ I bought a used Cannondale early on and it was so stiff that I had such severe pain that I thought I'd have to stop and ask at someone's house if I could use their phone. I NEVER had such pain on any of my steel frame bicycles. I got rid of that Cannondale and kept my Tange Infinity steel frame bike for those rides. I have a Shimano 600 EX headset on one of my bikes and I have a scalloped Dura Ace AX headset on another of my bikes. Neither of those headsets keep coming loose no matter how rough the road is that I ride on. I even ride gravel roads and some forest trails on those bikes and still don't have a problem with things loosening up. If I did have a headset that kept coming loose I'd figure that the threads on it are worn or damaged somehow. I just can not see the need to use a hose clamp to keep a headset nut where it's supposed to be. All the steel bikes I do own do whatever job I need them to and they do it in a manner and time constraint that's acceptable for ME. Therefore I do not see the need to tosss them and get a new aluminium or carbon fiber frameset. Other peoples' needs/wants might vary and thus they need/want aluminium or carbon fiber for their framesets. Yah, I'm not prescribing frames. People should ride what they want, but the generic rejection of "plastic bikes" is dopey. I broke all my steel frames and got tired of re-brazing them. I broke a bunch of Cannondales, too -- but they gave me new ones. My current commuter CX bike is the replacement for a bike I bought fifteen years ago. My son's CAAD 9 is in effect a replacement for a Cannondale 2.8 I bought in 1991 (with a few frames in between). Cannondale refused to warranty my 1987 Black Lightning (which replaced my original 1984 frame) because it just "wore out." Cannondale's generosity is not unlimited. As for headsets loosening, I was responding to Joerg's comment about his MTB, which I assume has a threadless headset. If that is loosening, it shouldn't. My Dura Ace and 600EX headsets were also great and didn't loosen, but the Deore 1/4 ball headset on my old T1000 did loosen, so I used a Gorilla Headlock on that. -- Jay Beattie. Excluding any frame material just because is plain stupid. You can't discuss this with the 'steel is real' people, so why bother. Tom ranted about his CF bikes a while ago because they were so harsh that they were practical unridable and look what he has bought lately. People believe what the believe but it is seldom based on facts. It is just a religion and we have already enough of that IMO. Lou +1 -- duane |
#63
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Noise from new Sunrace cassette
On Monday, November 26, 2018 at 2:24:47 PM UTC-8, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-11-26 14:01, Sir Ridesalot wrote: On Monday, November 26, 2018 at 4:26:53 PM UTC-5, duane wrote: Snipped Typically if I start off on a decent lenght ride, I like to have a reasonable expectation of getting back without having to try to rebuild the bike on the side of the road. To hack my cassette to save one cog makes no sense to me. Frugality is a good thing for the planet and all but this is sounding close to OCD. I have a couple of bicycle wheels that still have Uniglide Cassette bodies on them. A few years ago I came across a bicycle shop that was a bit outside of a city in our area. that shop HAD a number of brand new Uniglide 7 speed cassettes at $5.00 per cassette. I said HAD because I bough every one they had. I even have a couple of NOS Uniglide cassette bodies. Out of curiosity, what are UG cassette bodies? The UG cassettes I had, even before a hack, consisted only of cogs, spacers and three screws that held it all together (but which weren't really needed and removed by me). ... I'm set for the rest of my years and won't need to hack apart and Dremel Hyperglide cassettes to replace those Uniglide cogs once they wear out on both sides. If I get to the point where I need lower gears I'll just swap out the bottom bracket spindle 0r cartridge and add a triple chainring crankset. I have a number of those on hand waiting for that day. That'll be very hard on the chain and cogs if you ride a lot of hills. Depends on rider weight and load, of course. Speaking of hacking cassettes. I have one bicycle wheel that has a 9-speed hacked cassette with a corncob cluster 11 to 19 teeth being shifted with friction downtube shifters which is good because one of the cogs I could not find on my spare 9 speed cassettes was take from and 8 speed cassette. I have no problems shifting to or from any of those cogs. It's a fun bike to ride on gently rolling hills. On my long distance road bike I have the Campagnolo Veloce 30 - 42 - 52 triple crank and find that 30 teeth ring useful at times in strong headwinds, steep hills or if I'm really tired. However, I think some people like Joerg simply enjoy making something work with something it wasn't designed to work with. Oh yeah. Sometimes you get a little bonus in the wake. For example, this new cassette came with 11T and 13T as smallest cogs. Because of its construction these had to stay in unless I'd do a more serious hack on the big grinder. Turns out that 52/11 acts like an overdrive in a car and if the wind picks up a wee bit I can shift to 13T. Currently I am missing 15T so I accelerate for the last bit on the 18T, then shift to the 13T for a "mild overdrive". It suits me well because I am not used to spinning. So, are your three lowest cogs 11, 13, 18? Is there nothing between 13 and 18? -- Jay Beattie. |
#64
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Noise from new Sunrace cassette
On 2018-11-26 19:43, John B. slocomb wrote:
On Mon, 26 Nov 2018 14:24:45 -0800, Joerg wrote: [...] Speaking of hacking cassettes. I have one bicycle wheel that has a 9-speed hacked cassette with a corncob cluster 11 to 19 teeth being shifted with friction downtube shifters which is good because one of the cogs I could not find on my spare 9 speed cassettes was take from and 8 speed cassette. I have no problems shifting to or from any of those cogs. It's a fun bike to ride on gently rolling hills. On my long distance road bike I have the Campagnolo Veloce 30 - 42 - 52 triple crank and find that 30 teeth ring useful at times in strong headwinds, steep hills or if I'm really tired. However, I think some people like Joerg simply enjoy making something work with something it wasn't designed to work with. Oh yeah. Sometimes you get a little bonus in the wake. For example, this new cassette came with 11T and 13T as smallest cogs. Because of its construction these had to stay in unless I'd do a more serious hack on the big grinder. Turns out that 52/11 acts like an overdrive in a car and if the wind picks up a wee bit I can shift to 13T. Currently I am missing 15T so I accelerate for the last bit on the 18T, then shift to the 13T for a "mild overdrive". It suits me well because I am not used to spinning. Interesting. A 52/11 with a 23mm tire at a moderate 90 RPM crank speed is about 54 KPH or 33 MPH. I read that TdF level riders will ride a 36 K time trial in the 29 - 31 MPH range. Then there are people who prefer not to ride longer distance at 90rpm. I often ride at 20mph and the resulting lower rpm feels just right. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
#65
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Noise from new Sunrace cassette
On 2018-11-26 17:08, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Monday, November 26, 2018 at 7:51:12 PM UTC-5, Joerg wrote: On 2018-11-26 16:27, jbeattie wrote: On Monday, November 26, 2018 at 2:12:22 PM UTC-8, Joerg wrote: [...] In fact, the hose-clamped steerer set on my road bike holds up better than the newfangled modern one on my MT which needs occasional adjustment. The compression nut and stem clamp serve the same purpose as a hose clamp and have more contact area. If you have issues, then it is because of inadequate torque or a poorly faced stem or spacer. I am by far not the only one who had to constantly re-tighten the Shimano 600 headset no matter how hard you torque the counter nut. Well, not anymore. On smooth asphalt it's all ok but it got loose on gravel roads, rough surface roads or dirt roads. Nowadays you see that problem less and less but that's because hardly anyone has Shimano 600 anymore. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ I bought a used Cannondale early on and it was so stiff that I had such severe pain that I thought I'd have to stop and ask at someone's house if I could use their phone. I NEVER had such pain on any of my steel frame bicycles. I got rid of that Cannondale and kept my Tange Infinity steel frame bike for those rides. I have a Shimano 600 EX headset on one of my bikes and I have a scalloped Dura Ace AX headset on another of my bikes. Neither of those headsets keep coming loose no matter how rough the road is that I ride on. I even ride gravel roads and some forest trails on those bikes and still don't have a problem with things loosening up. If I did have a headset that kept coming loose I'd figure that the threads on it are worn or damaged somehow. I just can not see the need to use a hose clamp to keep a headset nut where it's supposed to be. All the steel bikes I do own do whatever job I need them to and they do it in a manner and time constraint that's acceptable for ME. Therefore I do not see the need to tosss them and get a new aluminium or carbon fiber frameset. Other peoples' needs/wants might vary and thus they need/want aluminium or carbon fiber for their framesets. I wasn't talking about you or other people, I was merely stating my preferences and for me steel rulez. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
#66
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Noise from new Sunrace cassette
On 2018-11-27 07:04, jbeattie wrote:
On Monday, November 26, 2018 at 2:24:47 PM UTC-8, Joerg wrote: On 2018-11-26 14:01, Sir Ridesalot wrote: On Monday, November 26, 2018 at 4:26:53 PM UTC-5, duane wrote: Snipped Typically if I start off on a decent lenght ride, I like to have a reasonable expectation of getting back without having to try to rebuild the bike on the side of the road. To hack my cassette to save one cog makes no sense to me. Frugality is a good thing for the planet and all but this is sounding close to OCD. I have a couple of bicycle wheels that still have Uniglide Cassette bodies on them. A few years ago I came across a bicycle shop that was a bit outside of a city in our area. that shop HAD a number of brand new Uniglide 7 speed cassettes at $5.00 per cassette. I said HAD because I bough every one they had. I even have a couple of NOS Uniglide cassette bodies. Out of curiosity, what are UG cassette bodies? The UG cassettes I had, even before a hack, consisted only of cogs, spacers and three screws that held it all together (but which weren't really needed and removed by me). ... I'm set for the rest of my years and won't need to hack apart and Dremel Hyperglide cassettes to replace those Uniglide cogs once they wear out on both sides. If I get to the point where I need lower gears I'll just swap out the bottom bracket spindle 0r cartridge and add a triple chainring crankset. I have a number of those on hand waiting for that day. That'll be very hard on the chain and cogs if you ride a lot of hills. Depends on rider weight and load, of course. Speaking of hacking cassettes. I have one bicycle wheel that has a 9-speed hacked cassette with a corncob cluster 11 to 19 teeth being shifted with friction downtube shifters which is good because one of the cogs I could not find on my spare 9 speed cassettes was take from and 8 speed cassette. I have no problems shifting to or from any of those cogs. It's a fun bike to ride on gently rolling hills. On my long distance road bike I have the Campagnolo Veloce 30 - 42 - 52 triple crank and find that 30 teeth ring useful at times in strong headwinds, steep hills or if I'm really tired. However, I think some people like Joerg simply enjoy making something work with something it wasn't designed to work with. Oh yeah. Sometimes you get a little bonus in the wake. For example, this new cassette came with 11T and 13T as smallest cogs. Because of its construction these had to stay in unless I'd do a more serious hack on the big grinder. Turns out that 52/11 acts like an overdrive in a car and if the wind picks up a wee bit I can shift to 13T. Currently I am missing 15T so I accelerate for the last bit on the 18T, then shift to the 13T for a "mild overdrive". It suits me well because I am not used to spinning. So, are your three lowest cogs 11, 13, 18? Is there nothing between 13 and 18? Unfortunately not. I'll see how that fares this week. If I really want that 15T I'll probably take out the 28T instead. The bike only supports 7-speed unless I'd go to a smaller chain. With friction shifters a smaller chain and more cogs would not be fun. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
#67
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Noise from new Sunrace cassette
On 2018-11-26 19:29, John B. slocomb wrote:
On Mon, 26 Nov 2018 12:28:09 -0800, Joerg wrote: On 2018-11-25 17:56, jbeattie wrote: [...] I can't get a HG cassette cog to fit on a HG freehub body if I flip the cog. The notches are not symmetrical. After a little dance with a Dremel you can. A new 10 speed free hub is less then $20. Spreading the rear fork is a trivial task, re dishing a wheel, that is reasonably true, is simple ... In my case, 10-speed with friction shifters would not be that great. Of course, I could buy a new bike ... -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
#68
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Noise from new Sunrace cassette
Joerg wrote:
On 2018-11-26 19:29, John B. slocomb wrote: On Mon, 26 Nov 2018 12:28:09 -0800, Joerg wrote: On 2018-11-25 17:56, jbeattie wrote: [...] I can't get a HG cassette cog to fit on a HG freehub body if I flip the cog. The notches are not symmetrical. After a little dance with a Dremel you can. A new 10 speed free hub is less then $20. Spreading the rear fork is a trivial task, re dishing a wheel, that is reasonably true, is simple ... In my case, 10-speed with friction shifters would not be that great. Of course, I could buy a new bike ... Are you sure? :-) |
#69
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Noise from new Sunrace cassette
On Tuesday, November 27, 2018 at 7:14:23 AM UTC-8, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-11-27 07:04, jbeattie wrote: On Monday, November 26, 2018 at 2:24:47 PM UTC-8, Joerg wrote: On 2018-11-26 14:01, Sir Ridesalot wrote: On Monday, November 26, 2018 at 4:26:53 PM UTC-5, duane wrote: Snipped Typically if I start off on a decent lenght ride, I like to have a reasonable expectation of getting back without having to try to rebuild the bike on the side of the road. To hack my cassette to save one cog makes no sense to me. Frugality is a good thing for the planet and all but this is sounding close to OCD. I have a couple of bicycle wheels that still have Uniglide Cassette bodies on them. A few years ago I came across a bicycle shop that was a bit outside of a city in our area. that shop HAD a number of brand new Uniglide 7 speed cassettes at $5.00 per cassette. I said HAD because I bough every one they had. I even have a couple of NOS Uniglide cassette bodies. Out of curiosity, what are UG cassette bodies? The UG cassettes I had, even before a hack, consisted only of cogs, spacers and three screws that held it all together (but which weren't really needed and removed by me). ... I'm set for the rest of my years and won't need to hack apart and Dremel Hyperglide cassettes to replace those Uniglide cogs once they wear out on both sides. If I get to the point where I need lower gears I'll just swap out the bottom bracket spindle 0r cartridge and add a triple chainring crankset. I have a number of those on hand waiting for that day. That'll be very hard on the chain and cogs if you ride a lot of hills. Depends on rider weight and load, of course. Speaking of hacking cassettes. I have one bicycle wheel that has a 9-speed hacked cassette with a corncob cluster 11 to 19 teeth being shifted with friction downtube shifters which is good because one of the cogs I could not find on my spare 9 speed cassettes was take from and 8 speed cassette. I have no problems shifting to or from any of those cogs. It's a fun bike to ride on gently rolling hills. On my long distance road bike I have the Campagnolo Veloce 30 - 42 - 52 triple crank and find that 30 teeth ring useful at times in strong headwinds, steep hills or if I'm really tired. However, I think some people like Joerg simply enjoy making something work with something it wasn't designed to work with. Oh yeah. Sometimes you get a little bonus in the wake. For example, this new cassette came with 11T and 13T as smallest cogs. Because of its construction these had to stay in unless I'd do a more serious hack on the big grinder. Turns out that 52/11 acts like an overdrive in a car and if the wind picks up a wee bit I can shift to 13T. Currently I am missing 15T so I accelerate for the last bit on the 18T, then shift to the 13T for a "mild overdrive". It suits me well because I am not used to spinning. So, are your three lowest cogs 11, 13, 18? Is there nothing between 13 and 18? Unfortunately not. I'll see how that fares this week. If I really want that 15T I'll probably take out the 28T instead. The bike only supports 7-speed unless I'd go to a smaller chain. With friction shifters a smaller chain and more cogs would not be fun. https://www.bikenashbar.com/cycling/...-expert-bz-rfe Wait for the bankruptcy to ramp-up, and the price will drop some more -- or get the same bike at the door-closing sale at your nearest Performance. Steel, 9 reasonable speeds, tire clearance, discs, etc., etc. All the things you want for your gnarly road riding in the wilds of Cameron Park. The massive Trump tax break should more than fund that bike, or at least the bar tape. -- Jay Beattie. |
#70
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Noise from new Sunrace cassette
On Tuesday, November 27, 2018 at 10:14:23 AM UTC-5, Joerg wrote:
Snipped Unfortunately not. I'll see how that fares this week. If I really want that 15T I'll probably take out the 28T instead. The bike only supports 7-speed unless I'd go to a smaller chain. With friction shifters a smaller chain and more cogs would not be fun. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ I have two bicycles with 9 speed clusters, chain and old school friction shifters. I can shift gears on either bicycle with no problems. YMMV and probably does. Cheers |
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