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#1
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Under the chain stay brake mounting
I have a 1986 or 1987 specialized rockhopper that has the rear brake
mounted under the chainstays. It's a bit a pain to adjust and disconnect for wheel removal. Gets road grime from both wheels too. Why did manufactures put the brakes there? I've seen other brands with this same brake setup. |
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#2
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Under the chain stay brake mounting
On Mar 19, 2:01*pm, Rick wrote:
I have a 1986 or 1987 specialized rockhopper that has the rear brake mounted under the chainstays. *It's a bit a pain to adjust and disconnect for wheel removal. *Gets road grime from both wheels too. Why did manufactures put the brakes there? *I've seen other brands with this same brake setup. They did it because it looked different. The reason given was something about stiffness. And it wouldn't have happened if it wasn't for those narrow roller cam brakes. Mainly--it was for selling. |
#3
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Under the chain stay brake mounting
On Mar 19, 2:01*pm, Rick wrote:
I have a 1986 or 1987 specialized rockhopper that has the rear brake mounted under the chainstays. *It's a bit a pain to adjust and disconnect for wheel removal. *Gets road grime from both wheels too. Why did manufactures put the brakes there? *I've seen other brands with this same brake setup. landotter is right -- "...it was for selling". It's a bad location for a brake -- the reason this fad passed so quickly. Sergio Moretti |
#4
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Under the chain stay brake mounting
In article
, Rick wrote: I have a 1986 or 1987 specialized rockhopper that has the rear brake mounted under the chainstays. It's a bit a pain to adjust and disconnect for wheel removal. Gets road grime from both wheels too. Why did manufactures put the brakes there? I've seen other brands with this same brake setup. This location has been used for years- many rod-braked bikes have the brake stirrup located here. Charlie Cunningham of WTB mounted roller cam brakes down there, IIRC, because the bigger, thicker chainstays would move less than seatstay mounted pivots and this would improve braking power. For a long time in MTB design, where Charlie led others followed (except for using a 24" rear wheel and a 26" front, which he tried on at least one bike. However, probably due to patent issues, the roller cam was replaced with the inferior U brake resulting in (1) deficient braking and (2) a great place to accumulate tons of crap which just made (1) even worse. If you MTB in a mainly dry area, that location might not be too bad. But if you live somewhere wet it's pretty awful. -- Faith is believing what you know ain't so. -Mark Twain |
#5
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Under the chain stay brake mounting
On Mar 19, 3:43*pm, Tim McNamara wrote:
In article , *Rick wrote: I have a 1986 or 1987 specialized rockhopper that has the rear brake mounted under the chainstays. *It's a bit a pain to adjust and disconnect for wheel removal. *Gets road grime from both wheels too. Why did manufactures put the brakes there? *I've seen other brands with this same brake setup. This location has been used for years- many rod-braked bikes have the brake stirrup located here. Yup. That's where practicality dictates it be on a rod activated setup. My DL1 shares the same hassle of late 80s mtbs with having rear brakes that are a royal PITA to service without a work stand. Charlie Cunningham of WTB mounted roller cam brakes down there, IIRC, because the bigger, thicker chainstays would move less than seatstay mounted pivots and this would improve braking power. *For a long time in MTB design, where Charlie led others followed (except for using a 24" rear wheel and a 26" front, which he tried on at least one bike. * However, probably due to patent issues, the roller cam was replaced with the inferior U brake resulting in (1) deficient braking and (2) a great place to accumulate tons of crap which just made (1) even worse. If you MTB in a mainly dry area, that location might not be too bad. * But if you live somewhere wet it's pretty awful. I've built a few mid quality mtbs from that era into heavy duty touring bikes, and the hidden brake plays nice with bags and weird loads. That's the best application for such vintage frames. And the oval chainrings are just gravy. ;-) |
#6
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Under the chain stay brake mounting
Rick wrote:
I have a 1986 or 1987 specialized rockhopper that has the rear brake mounted under the chainstays. It's a bit a pain to adjust and disconnect for wheel removal. Gets road grime from both wheels too. Why did manufactures put the brakes there? I've seen other brands with this same brake setup. Give any bike with cantilevers a good hard pull on the rear brake lever. The pivot bolts visibly move apart as the stays flex. This flex was once considered a "major problem". feh. p.s. the U-Brake has found a happy home in 20", where they work just fine. The "inaccessible" aspect which annoys you is appreciated by grinders. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
#7
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Under the chain stay brake mounting
landotter wrote:
On Mar 19, 3:43 pm, Tim McNamara wrote: In article , Rick wrote: I have a 1986 or 1987 specialized rockhopper that has the rear brake mounted under the chainstays. It's a bit a pain to adjust and disconnect for wheel removal. Gets road grime from both wheels too. Why did manufactures put the brakes there? I've seen other brands with this same brake setup. This location has been used for years- many rod-braked bikes have the brake stirrup located here. Yup. That's where practicality dictates it be on a rod activated setup. My DL1 shares the same hassle of late 80s mtbs with having rear brakes that are a royal PITA to service without a work stand. Charlie Cunningham of WTB mounted roller cam brakes down there, IIRC, because the bigger, thicker chainstays would move less than seatstay mounted pivots and this would improve braking power. For a long time in MTB design, where Charlie led others followed (except for using a 24" rear wheel and a 26" front, which he tried on at least one bike. However, probably due to patent issues, the roller cam was replaced with the inferior U brake resulting in (1) deficient braking and (2) a great place to accumulate tons of crap which just made (1) even worse. If you MTB in a mainly dry area, that location might not be too bad. But if you live somewhere wet it's pretty awful. I've built a few mid quality mtbs from that era into heavy duty touring bikes, and the hidden brake plays nice with bags and weird loads. That's the best application for such vintage frames. And the oval chainrings are just gravy. ;-) At the risk of offending Jobst, a DLI rear brake adjustment is quick upside down. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
#8
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Under the chain stay brake mounting
On Mar 19, 5:35*pm, AMuzi wrote:
landotter wrote: On Mar 19, 3:43 pm, Tim McNamara wrote: In article , *Rick wrote: I have a 1986 or 1987 specialized rockhopper that has the rear brake mounted under the chainstays. *It's a bit a pain to adjust and disconnect for wheel removal. *Gets road grime from both wheels too.. Why did manufactures put the brakes there? *I've seen other brands with this same brake setup. This location has been used for years- many rod-braked bikes have the brake stirrup located here. Yup. That's where practicality dictates it be on a rod activated setup. My DL1 shares the same hassle of late 80s mtbs with having rear brakes that are a royal PITA to service without a work stand. Charlie Cunningham of WTB mounted roller cam brakes down there, IIRC, because the bigger, thicker chainstays would move less than seatstay mounted pivots and this would improve braking power. *For a long time in MTB design, where Charlie led others followed (except for using a 24" rear wheel and a 26" front, which he tried on at least one bike. * However, probably due to patent issues, the roller cam was replaced with the inferior U brake resulting in (1) deficient braking and (2) a great place to accumulate tons of crap which just made (1) even worse. If you MTB in a mainly dry area, that location might not be too bad. * But if you live somewhere wet it's pretty awful. I've built a few mid quality mtbs from that era into heavy duty touring bikes, and the hidden brake plays nice with bags and weird loads. That's the best application for such vintage frames. And the oval chainrings are just gravy. ;-) At the risk of offending Jobst, a DLI rear brake adjustment is quick upside down. I can never get the toe set right before all the blood rushes to my head. |
#9
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Under the chain stay brake mounting
On Mar 19, 1:43*pm, Tim McNamara wrote:
*Rick wrote: I have a 1986 or 1987 specialized rockhopper that has the rear brake mounted under the chainstays. *It's a bit a pain to adjust and disconnect for wheel removal. *Gets road grime from both wheels too. Why did manufactures put the brakes there? *I've seen other brands with this same brake setup. This location has been used for years- many rod-braked bikes have the brake stirrup located here. Charlie Cunningham of WTB mounted roller cam brakes down there, IIRC, because the bigger, thicker chainstays would move less than seatstay mounted pivots and this would improve braking power. *For a long time in MTB design, where Charlie led others followed (except for using a 24" rear wheel and a 26" front, which he tried on at least one bike. * However, probably due to patent issues, the roller cam was replaced with the inferior U brake resulting in (1) deficient braking and (2) a great place to accumulate tons of crap which just made (1) even worse. If you MTB in a mainly dry area, that location might not be too bad. * But if you live somewhere wet it's pretty awful. Rollercams are theoretically better but practically, a pain in the ass. U-brakes are better. I replaced the under-the-chainstay Suntour rollercams on my old Bridgestone MB-2 with U-brakes and was pleased. I actually used to race that bike, but the timing of our spring race season in Norcal meant I rarely had to ride it in mud. If you care about why rollercams stunk, it's because they would go out of adjustment, were a pain to adjust, had a tedious QR based on freeing the cam, and didn't open wide enough to remove the rear wheel unless the tire was deflated. Good U-brakes worked as well as a typical strong caliper brake (since that's what they are), which was more than good enough, especially for a rear brake. These MTBs with under-the-chainstay brakes can and should be repurposed as city/commuter bikes - they have relaxed geometry for it, typically good frames, and in an unintended consequence, moving the brake off the seatstays can make mounting a rack easier. Ben |
#10
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Under the chain stay brake mounting
Per bjw:
These MTBs with under-the-chainstay brakes can and should be repurposed as city/commuter bikes - they have relaxed geometry for it, typically good frames, and in an unintended consequence, moving the brake off the seatstays can make mounting a rack easier. When I first read about a frame with such brake mounts I faulted Surly for not putting them on my 1x1 - but now I understand why they put them up there out of dirt's way. -- PeteCresswell |
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