A Cycling & bikes forum. CycleBanter.com

Go Back   Home » CycleBanter.com forum » rec.bicycles » Techniques
Site Map Home Register Authors List Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Web Partners

V-brake balancing screws.



 
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #141  
Old April 8th 15, 01:49 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
AMuzi
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 13,447
Default V-brake balancing screws.

On 4/7/2015 6:32 PM, James wrote:
On 07/04/15 23:06, AMuzi wrote:
On 4/6/2015 8:28 PM, James wrote:
On 03/04/15 05:53, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 4/2/2015 3:22 PM, Clive George wrote:
On 02/04/2015 18:50, Ian Field wrote:

Well, let's see. The seat post takes two, the seat
clamp and the seat
post clamp on the frame, the fender braces take another
one, the
Shimano pedal adjustment another one, the caliper
brakes yet another
one, so that is five and as I have some M5-.8 screws
with a "brazier"
head that take a smaller key normal, that is six.

Well aren't you lucky.

8mm for cranks. 6mm for stem, one of the saddles and the
bar end levers.
5mm for gear cables, the stem bolt and brake levers.
4mm for
rack/mudguard bolts, some bottle bosses and the other
saddle. 3mm for
SPD adjustment, the other bottles and the downtube cable
bosses. 2mm for
brake lever adjustment and rear axle grub screws (magura
brakes, WI hub).

I think I did find a 2.5mm somewhere, but can't remember
now. My toolkit
should have it in.

There's a couple of 10mm and 8mm hex head bolts too (M6,
M5).

Adjustable spanner for the crank tool. (I have had
occasion to use this
on a ride...).

Pozi for the klick-fix bracket.
Flat to adjust the bar end levers.

And to state it explicitly for any new riders that may be
reading: Yes,
it's a very good idea to survey all the fasteners on your
bike, and to
make sure you have a tool in your pack that can tighten
anything that
might reasonably come loose.

Even on bike tours, I don't carry bottom bracket tools or
headset tools
for my (now vintage) bikes, and never needed one on the
road. I don't
carry a chain tool, although I did break a chain once on a
mountain bike
ride. (I wired the chain ends together and
ratchet-pedaled my way home
- fortunately not far.) But everything else, I think I can
fix on the road.



For on the road chain repairs, various multi tools have a
chain breaker, and a quick link is very small and light to
add to a tool kit for just in case. I've been with others a
few times when someone's chain has broken, and I snapped a
cheap quick link myself. **** happens. I won't buy another
cheap quick link, that is for sure.


I can't say I've seen a deficient snaplink but I have
often seen the
wrong spec snaplink installed by a rider and that's indeed
a recipe for
trouble. There's a correct part for each chain and while
they look
similar, they are not. Very small dimensional differences
matter greatly
here.


https://www.flickr.com/photos/551026...n/photostream/


http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/a...s/rp-prod56349


Pretty certain I was using a 10s quick link on a 10s chain.


Yep, that's clearly a failure.
We don't have Clark's connectors here. To bad the price and
quality seem to match.

There are both Campagnolo-10 and Shimano-10 connectors by
the way.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971


Ads
  #142  
Old April 8th 15, 05:40 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
ian field
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,008
Default V-brake balancing screws.


"James" wrote in message
...
On 08/04/15 02:50, Ian Field wrote:

"James" wrote in message
...
On 03/04/15 05:53, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 4/2/2015 3:22 PM, Clive George wrote:
On 02/04/2015 18:50, Ian Field wrote:

Well, let's see. The seat post takes two, the seat clamp and the
seat
post clamp on the frame, the fender braces take another one, the
Shimano pedal adjustment another one, the caliper brakes yet another
one, so that is five and as I have some M5-.8 screws with a
"brazier"
head that take a smaller key normal, that is six.

Well aren't you lucky.

8mm for cranks. 6mm for stem, one of the saddles and the bar end
levers.
5mm for gear cables, the stem bolt and brake levers. 4mm for
rack/mudguard bolts, some bottle bosses and the other saddle. 3mm for
SPD adjustment, the other bottles and the downtube cable bosses. 2mm
for
brake lever adjustment and rear axle grub screws (magura brakes, WI
hub).

I think I did find a 2.5mm somewhere, but can't remember now. My
toolkit
should have it in.

There's a couple of 10mm and 8mm hex head bolts too (M6, M5).

Adjustable spanner for the crank tool. (I have had occasion to use
this
on a ride...).

Pozi for the klick-fix bracket.
Flat to adjust the bar end levers.

And to state it explicitly for any new riders that may be reading:
Yes,
it's a very good idea to survey all the fasteners on your bike, and to
make sure you have a tool in your pack that can tighten anything that
might reasonably come loose.

Even on bike tours, I don't carry bottom bracket tools or headset tools
for my (now vintage) bikes, and never needed one on the road. I don't
carry a chain tool, although I did break a chain once on a mountain
bike
ride. (I wired the chain ends together and ratchet-pedaled my way home
- fortunately not far.) But everything else, I think I can fix on the
road.



For on the road chain repairs, various multi tools have a chain
breaker, and a quick link is very small and light to add to a tool kit
for just in case.


The chain breaker I carry seems to be able to press links back in again.

Its a fiddly job but one of the folding tools includes a spring wire
hook to hang the chain ends close together for working on it.


Yes, I'm sure on a wide chain I could push pins in and out with my multi
tool chain breaker, however a quick link is a better repair solution for
narrow chains where it is not recommended to rejoin the chain by pushing a
pin back in.


Mine is a 7 speed sprocket, and IIRC I was sold an 8 sp chain to put on it.

When I finish wearing that out, I start using the cheaper chain from the
bicycle section in the supermarket. That way I can sacrifice a whole chain
for any length needed to add to the one I fit, and a few inches of spare
links for the tool pouch. In any case; any repairs will always be made with
identical links to the original.

The supermarket prices fluctuate from week to week, take for example brake
blocks, have been as low as £1.50 and high as £3.75 (average maybe about
£2.00) - compared to that, a chain is £5.00, so I can pretty much regard it
as a consumable just like brake blocks.

  #143  
Old April 8th 15, 05:45 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
ian field
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,008
Default V-brake balancing screws.


"Lou Holtman" wrote in message
...
Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 3/28/2015 5:01 PM, Lou Holtman wrote:
Never understood screws with
a bi slotted head, as you call it. They also use them for the limit
screws
of derailleurs. You have to be careful nit to damaged he heads because
no
screwdriver fits properly.


I assume the idea is that any screwdriver will fit, at least
half-assedly. And derailleur limit screws require very little torque,
meaning precise fit isn't important. So the guy who's shifting is bunged
up has a chance of fixing it with whatever's in his tool bag.


Stupid concept. Slotted headscrews are or should be extinct for decades.
Why keep them alive. I would not mind if they would use torx screws for
all
the fasteners on a bike.


Finally caught the fasteners place open after the Easter holiday weekend and
bought a box of socket cap screws.

Now I have some stock of the screws, I wondered whether they also fit the
limit adjusters on the derailleur doodad.

  #144  
Old April 8th 15, 05:45 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
JBeattie
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 5,870
Default V-brake balancing screws.

On Wednesday, April 8, 2015 at 5:49:36 AM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote:
On 4/7/2015 6:32 PM, James wrote:
On 07/04/15 23:06, AMuzi wrote:
On 4/6/2015 8:28 PM, James wrote:
On 03/04/15 05:53, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 4/2/2015 3:22 PM, Clive George wrote:
On 02/04/2015 18:50, Ian Field wrote:

Well, let's see. The seat post takes two, the seat
clamp and the seat
post clamp on the frame, the fender braces take another
one, the
Shimano pedal adjustment another one, the caliper
brakes yet another
one, so that is five and as I have some M5-.8 screws
with a "brazier"
head that take a smaller key normal, that is six.

Well aren't you lucky.

8mm for cranks. 6mm for stem, one of the saddles and the
bar end levers.
5mm for gear cables, the stem bolt and brake levers.
4mm for
rack/mudguard bolts, some bottle bosses and the other
saddle. 3mm for
SPD adjustment, the other bottles and the downtube cable
bosses. 2mm for
brake lever adjustment and rear axle grub screws (magura
brakes, WI hub).

I think I did find a 2.5mm somewhere, but can't remember
now. My toolkit
should have it in.

There's a couple of 10mm and 8mm hex head bolts too (M6,
M5).

Adjustable spanner for the crank tool. (I have had
occasion to use this
on a ride...).

Pozi for the klick-fix bracket.
Flat to adjust the bar end levers.

And to state it explicitly for any new riders that may be
reading: Yes,
it's a very good idea to survey all the fasteners on your
bike, and to
make sure you have a tool in your pack that can tighten
anything that
might reasonably come loose.

Even on bike tours, I don't carry bottom bracket tools or
headset tools
for my (now vintage) bikes, and never needed one on the
road. I don't
carry a chain tool, although I did break a chain once on a
mountain bike
ride. (I wired the chain ends together and
ratchet-pedaled my way home
- fortunately not far.) But everything else, I think I can
fix on the road.



For on the road chain repairs, various multi tools have a
chain breaker, and a quick link is very small and light to
add to a tool kit for just in case. I've been with others a
few times when someone's chain has broken, and I snapped a
cheap quick link myself. **** happens. I won't buy another
cheap quick link, that is for sure.


I can't say I've seen a deficient snaplink but I have
often seen the
wrong spec snaplink installed by a rider and that's indeed
a recipe for
trouble. There's a correct part for each chain and while
they look
similar, they are not. Very small dimensional differences
matter greatly
here.


https://www.flickr.com/photos/551026...n/photostream/


http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/a...s/rp-prod56349


Pretty certain I was using a 10s quick link on a 10s chain.


Yep, that's clearly a failure.
We don't have Clark's connectors here. To bad the price and
quality seem to match.

There are both Campagnolo-10 and Shimano-10 connectors by
the way.


I'm no engineer, but based on my experience talking with engineers and looking at broken stuff in the context of lawsuits, it looks like a slow-moving fatigue failure.

I use whatever snap-link comes with the chain, and if I buy a Shimano chain, I use a KMC 10sp snap-link. http://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...3&category=276 -- assuming I don't want to deal with the disposable Shimano pins.

-- Jay Beattie.
  #145  
Old April 8th 15, 09:06 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
James[_8_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 6,153
Default V-brake balancing screws.

On 08/04/15 22:49, AMuzi wrote:
On 4/7/2015 6:32 PM, James wrote:
On 07/04/15 23:06, AMuzi wrote:
On 4/6/2015 8:28 PM, James wrote:
On 03/04/15 05:53, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 4/2/2015 3:22 PM, Clive George wrote:
On 02/04/2015 18:50, Ian Field wrote:

Well, let's see. The seat post takes two, the seat
clamp and the seat
post clamp on the frame, the fender braces take another
one, the
Shimano pedal adjustment another one, the caliper
brakes yet another
one, so that is five and as I have some M5-.8 screws
with a "brazier"
head that take a smaller key normal, that is six.

Well aren't you lucky.

8mm for cranks. 6mm for stem, one of the saddles and the
bar end levers.
5mm for gear cables, the stem bolt and brake levers.
4mm for
rack/mudguard bolts, some bottle bosses and the other
saddle. 3mm for
SPD adjustment, the other bottles and the downtube cable
bosses. 2mm for
brake lever adjustment and rear axle grub screws (magura
brakes, WI hub).

I think I did find a 2.5mm somewhere, but can't remember
now. My toolkit
should have it in.

There's a couple of 10mm and 8mm hex head bolts too (M6,
M5).

Adjustable spanner for the crank tool. (I have had
occasion to use this
on a ride...).

Pozi for the klick-fix bracket.
Flat to adjust the bar end levers.

And to state it explicitly for any new riders that may be
reading: Yes,
it's a very good idea to survey all the fasteners on your
bike, and to
make sure you have a tool in your pack that can tighten
anything that
might reasonably come loose.

Even on bike tours, I don't carry bottom bracket tools or
headset tools
for my (now vintage) bikes, and never needed one on the
road. I don't
carry a chain tool, although I did break a chain once on a
mountain bike
ride. (I wired the chain ends together and
ratchet-pedaled my way home
- fortunately not far.) But everything else, I think I can
fix on the road.



For on the road chain repairs, various multi tools have a
chain breaker, and a quick link is very small and light to
add to a tool kit for just in case. I've been with others a
few times when someone's chain has broken, and I snapped a
cheap quick link myself. **** happens. I won't buy another
cheap quick link, that is for sure.


I can't say I've seen a deficient snaplink but I have
often seen the
wrong spec snaplink installed by a rider and that's indeed
a recipe for
trouble. There's a correct part for each chain and while
they look
similar, they are not. Very small dimensional differences
matter greatly
here.


https://www.flickr.com/photos/551026...n/photostream/


http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/a...s/rp-prod56349



Pretty certain I was using a 10s quick link on a 10s chain.


Yep, that's clearly a failure.
We don't have Clark's connectors here. To bad the price and quality seem
to match.

There are both Campagnolo-10 and Shimano-10 connectors by the way.


I didn't realise there were different links for the two manufacturers
chains. Thanks for pointing that out.

I am happy with the Connex brand, and presently using a SRAM link on the
road bike, only because that is all the shop had that I visited when I
snapped the one in the photo.

Oh, and thought the SRAM one is allegedly one time use only, it's been
fine for me to be reused over the 17,500km that my current chains and
cassette have taken me.

--
JS
  #146  
Old April 9th 15, 01:57 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
John B. Slocomb
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 606
Default V-brake balancing screws.

On Thu, 09 Apr 2015 06:06:35 +1000, James
wrote:

On 08/04/15 22:49, AMuzi wrote:
On 4/7/2015 6:32 PM, James wrote:
On 07/04/15 23:06, AMuzi wrote:
On 4/6/2015 8:28 PM, James wrote:
On 03/04/15 05:53, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 4/2/2015 3:22 PM, Clive George wrote:
On 02/04/2015 18:50, Ian Field wrote:

Well, let's see. The seat post takes two, the seat
clamp and the seat
post clamp on the frame, the fender braces take another
one, the
Shimano pedal adjustment another one, the caliper
brakes yet another
one, so that is five and as I have some M5-.8 screws
with a "brazier"
head that take a smaller key normal, that is six.

Well aren't you lucky.

8mm for cranks. 6mm for stem, one of the saddles and the
bar end levers.
5mm for gear cables, the stem bolt and brake levers.
4mm for
rack/mudguard bolts, some bottle bosses and the other
saddle. 3mm for
SPD adjustment, the other bottles and the downtube cable
bosses. 2mm for
brake lever adjustment and rear axle grub screws (magura
brakes, WI hub).

I think I did find a 2.5mm somewhere, but can't remember
now. My toolkit
should have it in.

There's a couple of 10mm and 8mm hex head bolts too (M6,
M5).

Adjustable spanner for the crank tool. (I have had
occasion to use this
on a ride...).

Pozi for the klick-fix bracket.
Flat to adjust the bar end levers.

And to state it explicitly for any new riders that may be
reading: Yes,
it's a very good idea to survey all the fasteners on your
bike, and to
make sure you have a tool in your pack that can tighten
anything that
might reasonably come loose.

Even on bike tours, I don't carry bottom bracket tools or
headset tools
for my (now vintage) bikes, and never needed one on the
road. I don't
carry a chain tool, although I did break a chain once on a
mountain bike
ride. (I wired the chain ends together and
ratchet-pedaled my way home
- fortunately not far.) But everything else, I think I can
fix on the road.



For on the road chain repairs, various multi tools have a
chain breaker, and a quick link is very small and light to
add to a tool kit for just in case. I've been with others a
few times when someone's chain has broken, and I snapped a
cheap quick link myself. **** happens. I won't buy another
cheap quick link, that is for sure.


I can't say I've seen a deficient snaplink but I have
often seen the
wrong spec snaplink installed by a rider and that's indeed
a recipe for
trouble. There's a correct part for each chain and while
they look
similar, they are not. Very small dimensional differences
matter greatly
here.


https://www.flickr.com/photos/551026...n/photostream/


http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/a...s/rp-prod56349



Pretty certain I was using a 10s quick link on a 10s chain.


Yep, that's clearly a failure.
We don't have Clark's connectors here. To bad the price and quality seem
to match.

There are both Campagnolo-10 and Shimano-10 connectors by the way.


I didn't realise there were different links for the two manufacturers
chains. Thanks for pointing that out.

I am happy with the Connex brand, and presently using a SRAM link on the
road bike, only because that is all the shop had that I visited when I
snapped the one in the photo.

Oh, and thought the SRAM one is allegedly one time use only, it's been
fine for me to be reused over the 17,500km that my current chains and
cassette have taken me.


I think that the "one time use" is intended for those who remove the
chain only when it wears out.
--
Cheers,

John B.
  #147  
Old April 9th 15, 05:09 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
ian field
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,008
Default V-brake balancing screws.


"John B. Slocomb" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 09 Apr 2015 06:06:35 +1000, James
wrote:

On 08/04/15 22:49, AMuzi wrote:
On 4/7/2015 6:32 PM, James wrote:
On 07/04/15 23:06, AMuzi wrote:
On 4/6/2015 8:28 PM, James wrote:
On 03/04/15 05:53, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 4/2/2015 3:22 PM, Clive George wrote:
On 02/04/2015 18:50, Ian Field wrote:

Well, let's see. The seat post takes two, the seat
clamp and the seat
post clamp on the frame, the fender braces take another
one, the
Shimano pedal adjustment another one, the caliper
brakes yet another
one, so that is five and as I have some M5-.8 screws
with a "brazier"
head that take a smaller key normal, that is six.

Well aren't you lucky.

8mm for cranks. 6mm for stem, one of the saddles and the
bar end levers.
5mm for gear cables, the stem bolt and brake levers.
4mm for
rack/mudguard bolts, some bottle bosses and the other
saddle. 3mm for
SPD adjustment, the other bottles and the downtube cable
bosses. 2mm for
brake lever adjustment and rear axle grub screws (magura
brakes, WI hub).

I think I did find a 2.5mm somewhere, but can't remember
now. My toolkit
should have it in.

There's a couple of 10mm and 8mm hex head bolts too (M6,
M5).

Adjustable spanner for the crank tool. (I have had
occasion to use this
on a ride...).

Pozi for the klick-fix bracket.
Flat to adjust the bar end levers.

And to state it explicitly for any new riders that may be
reading: Yes,
it's a very good idea to survey all the fasteners on your
bike, and to
make sure you have a tool in your pack that can tighten
anything that
might reasonably come loose.

Even on bike tours, I don't carry bottom bracket tools or
headset tools
for my (now vintage) bikes, and never needed one on the
road. I don't
carry a chain tool, although I did break a chain once on a
mountain bike
ride. (I wired the chain ends together and
ratchet-pedaled my way home
- fortunately not far.) But everything else, I think I can
fix on the road.



For on the road chain repairs, various multi tools have a
chain breaker, and a quick link is very small and light to
add to a tool kit for just in case. I've been with others a
few times when someone's chain has broken, and I snapped a
cheap quick link myself. **** happens. I won't buy another
cheap quick link, that is for sure.


I can't say I've seen a deficient snaplink but I have
often seen the
wrong spec snaplink installed by a rider and that's indeed
a recipe for
trouble. There's a correct part for each chain and while
they look
similar, they are not. Very small dimensional differences
matter greatly
here.


https://www.flickr.com/photos/551026...n/photostream/


http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/a...s/rp-prod56349



Pretty certain I was using a 10s quick link on a 10s chain.

Yep, that's clearly a failure.
We don't have Clark's connectors here. To bad the price and quality seem
to match.

There are both Campagnolo-10 and Shimano-10 connectors by the way.


I didn't realise there were different links for the two manufacturers
chains. Thanks for pointing that out.

I am happy with the Connex brand, and presently using a SRAM link on the
road bike, only because that is all the shop had that I visited when I
snapped the one in the photo.

Oh, and thought the SRAM one is allegedly one time use only, it's been
fine for me to be reused over the 17,500km that my current chains and
cassette have taken me.


I think that the "one time use" is intended for those who remove the
chain only when it wears out.


A chain that I picked up somewhere has snap-off pins on the link pins that
act as a guide while you're inserting them and snap off once you've pushed
the pin fully home.

It looks far better quality than the cheap chains from the supermarket, so
I'm saving it until I come by a good quality sprocket that's worthy of it.

 




Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
self-balancing unicycle John Doe Unicycling 1 July 27th 11 09:44 AM
Balancing martin.phillips Unicycling 10 May 26th 06 11:08 PM
self balancing unicycle! nick Unicycling 12 April 28th 04 04:33 PM
Balancing wheels andrew Australia 13 February 27th 04 07:56 AM
Balancing logic (or something like that)... andrew_carter Unicycling 8 September 15th 03 11:15 PM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 08:36 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004-2024 CycleBanter.com.
The comments are property of their posters.