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Park internal seat tube clamp (ISC-4) stuck in frame, help!



 
 
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  #1  
Old November 3rd 10, 12:47 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
raging raven
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Posts: 49
Default Park internal seat tube clamp (ISC-4) stuck in frame, help!

Park internal seat tube clamp (ISC-4) is stuck in Klein Quantum Race.
I can remove entire top part of tool assembly, leaving threaded rod
and the four expander wedges inside the seat tube. Can't move these
up or down. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Cheers
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  #2  
Old November 3rd 10, 01:53 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
raging raven
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Posts: 49
Default Park internal seat tube clamp (ISC-4) stuck in frame, help!

On Nov 2, 7:47*pm, Guy ] wrote:
raging raven wrote:
Park internal seat tube clamp (ISC-4) is stuck in Klein Quantum Race.
I can remove entire top part of tool assembly, leaving threaded rod
and the four expander wedges inside the seat tube. *Can't move these
up or down. *Any advice is greatly appreciated.


Is threaded rod stuck in wedges?
Double nut rod and tap with mallet.


Tried that, rod won't move down either. It appears that the seat tube
is butted and that the bottom of the rod/expander is stuck against the
narrowing of the tube? Just a guess at this point, I am reluctant to
tap too hard on this for fear of distorting the tube. Which
ironically is why I chose to use this tool in the first place.
Cheers!
  #3  
Old November 3rd 10, 05:29 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Chalo
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Posts: 5,093
Default Park internal seat tube clamp (ISC-4) stuck in frame, help!

raging raven wrote:

Park internal seat tube clamp (ISC-4) is stuck in Klein Quantum Race.
I can remove entire top part of tool assembly, leaving threaded rod
and the four expander wedges inside the seat tube. *Can't move these
up or down. *Any advice is greatly appreciated.


Real seatposts tolerate workstands nicely. Maybe you could use one of
those.

That's probably not the advice you wanted.

Couldn't hurt to put some wicking lube like Triflow down there and
reduce the forces necessary to extract the tool. It doesn't seem
plausible that the bottom cone could be stuck in a bore that the
wedges were able to fit in. Lube it up and tap some more.

Chalo
  #4  
Old November 3rd 10, 06:15 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
raging raven
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 49
Default Park internal seat tube clamp (ISC-4) stuck in frame, help!

On Nov 2, 11:29*pm, Chalo wrote:
raging raven wrote:

Park internal seat tube clamp (ISC-4) is stuck in Klein Quantum Race.
I can remove entire top part of tool assembly, leaving threaded rod
and the four expander wedges inside the seat tube. *Can't move these
up or down. *Any advice is greatly appreciated.


Real seatposts tolerate workstands nicely. *Maybe you could use one of
those.

That's probably not the advice you wanted.

Couldn't hurt to put some wicking lube like Triflow down there and
reduce the forces necessary to extract the tool. *It doesn't seem
plausible that the bottom cone could be stuck in a bore that the
wedges were able to fit in. *Lube it up and tap some more.

Chalo


completely agree about real seat posts, didn't want to risk/trash c.f.
b.s. installed. thought said tool was best choice. round two
tomorrow aft.
  #5  
Old November 4th 10, 01:08 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
raging raven
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Posts: 49
Default Park internal seat tube clamp (ISC-4) stuck in frame, help!

On Nov 3, 6:30*am, Guy ] wrote:
raging raven wrote:
Guy wrote:


raging raven wrote:


Park internal seat tube clamp (ISC-4) is stuck in Klein Quantum
Race. I can remove entire top part of tool assembly, leaving
threaded rod and the four expander wedges inside the seat tube.
*Can't move these up or down. *Any advice is greatly
appreciated.


Is threaded rod stuck in wedges?
Double nut rod and tap with mallet.


Tried that, rod won't move down either. *It appears that the seat
tube is butted and that the bottom of the rod/expander is stuck
against the narrowing of the tube? *Just a guess at this point, I
am reluctant to tap too hard on this for fear of distorting the
tube. *Which ironically is why I chose to use this tool in the
first place. Cheers!


You'll need to tap the rod with more enthusiasm.

Remove the double nut at the top of the rod.
Tie a shop rag on the rod about an inch above the top of the seat tube.
Slide a large flat washer down the rod to the rag.
Run a nut down the rod to the the washer.
Double nut the top of the rod.

http://oi53.tinypic.com/25hlo42.jpg

The rag, washer, and nut are a cushioned stop for the ballistic rod.
The double nut is to protect threads.


enthusiasm wins the day, thanks for the guidance.
 




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