How to remove a stuck pedal

A friend gave me a low-end Truvativ Touro crank, not a great crank.
Non-drive side (left) arm has a pedal on it that will not come off. I
tried using a 3 feet "cheater" pipe over my pedal wrench in
combination with both soaking the joint overnight in MEK and then a
liberal dose of penetrating oil. This sucker will not budge. And yes I
know its reversed threaded so I'm turning clockwise to get it off.
I also tried heating the crank arm around the pedal.

All ideas welcome. Junk crank anyway so what the heck.

Ronko wrote:
:A friend gave me a low-end Truvativ Touro crank, not a great crank.
:Non-drive side (left) arm has a pedal on it that will not come off. I
:tried using a 3 feet "cheater" pipe over my pedal wrench in
:combination with both soaking the joint overnight in MEK and then a
:liberal dose of penetrating oil. This sucker will not budge. And yes I
:know its reversed threaded so I'm turning clockwise to get it off.
:I also tried heating the crank arm around the pedal.

:All ideas welcome. Junk crank anyway so what the heck.

Clamp the pedal wrench flats in a good bench vice (cutting the pedal
body away, if you need to), and then beat the crank arm with a dead
blow. If you're after the pedal, that probably won't work.

If it's got an allen key slot on the back, I'd try an impact wrench.


--
sig 13

On Nov 7, 5:55*pm, David Scheidt wrote:
Ronko wrote:

:A friend gave me a low-end Truvativ Touro crank, not a great crank.
:Non-drive side (left) arm has a pedal on it that will not come off. I
:tried using a 3 feet "cheater" pipe over my pedal wrench in
:combination with both soaking the joint overnight in MEK and then a
:liberal dose of penetrating oil. This sucker will not budge. And yes I
:know its reversed threaded so I'm turning clockwise to get it off.
:I also tried heating the crank arm around the pedal.

:All ideas welcome. Junk crank anyway so what the heck.

Clamp the pedal wrench flats in a good bench vice (cutting the pedal
body away, if you need to), and then beat the crank arm with a dead
blow. *If you're after the pedal, that probably won't work. *

If it's got an allen key slot on the back, I'd try an impact wrench. *

Heat the crank arm. The Al will expand faster than the steel. Jobst
recommends heating over a stove. I use a propane torch. -- Jay
Beattie.

On 11/7/2010 5:12 PM, Ronko wrote:
A friend gave me a low-end Truvativ Touro crank, not a great crank.
Non-drive side (left) arm has a pedal on it that will not come off. I
tried using a 3 feet "cheater" pipe over my pedal wrench in
combination with both soaking the joint overnight in MEK and then a
liberal dose of penetrating oil. This sucker will not budge. And yes I
know its reversed threaded so I'm turning clockwise to get it off.
I also tried heating the crank arm around the pedal.

All ideas welcome. Junk crank anyway so what the heck.


Any chance it's from a crossover tandem set? If so, the arm that has no
sprocket is for the front right, and will not be reverse threaded.

Just a shot in the dark,

Mark J.

David Scheidt wrote:

Ronko wrote:
:A friend gave me a low-end Truvativ Touro crank, not a great crank.
:Non-drive side (left) arm has a pedal on it that will not come off. I
:tried using a 3 feet "cheater" pipe over my pedal wrench in
:combination with both soaking the joint overnight in MEK and then a
:liberal dose of penetrating oil. This sucker will not budge. And yes I
:know its reversed threaded so I'm turning clockwise to get it off.
:I also tried heating the crank arm around the pedal.

:All ideas welcome. Junk crank anyway so what the heck.

Clamp the pedal wrench flats in a good bench vice (cutting the pedal
body away, if you need to), and then beat the crank arm with a dead
blow. If you're after the pedal, that probably won't work.

If it's got an allen key slot on the back, I'd try an impact wrench.



I've had luck with the vice, and a rubber hammer. Or get an even longer
pipe. The pedal can't welded to the crank, so at some force it has to move.
--
Dieter Britz (dieterhansbritzatgmail.com)

On Nov 7, 5:12 pm, Ronko wrote:
A friend gave me a low-end Truvativ Touro crank, not a great crank.
Non-drive side (left) arm has a pedal on it that will not come off. I
tried using a 3 feet "cheater" pipe over my pedal wrench in
combination with both soaking the joint overnight in MEK and then a
liberal dose of penetrating oil. This sucker will not budge. And yes I
know its reversed threaded so I'm turning clockwise to get it off.
I also tried heating the crank arm around the pedal.

All ideas welcome. Junk crank anyway so what the heck.

Is there a friendly neighborhood fire station nearby? Ever use the
"Jaws of Life" motor vehicle extrication tools?

SEARS has a nifty oxygen acytelene torch kit. THE SOLUTION for all
similar problems-not burning out the Shimano seals with judicious
aluminum foil use, off course-and capable of brazing aluminum with
Bernzomatics Al brazing rods.
To the chase: take a sharp pick, gouge out the end threads at interior
crank side. Find a regular wrench fits the pedal shaft. Attach large
vise grips into the unused wrench opening.
Heat with whatever. Step on the crank with one foot (rehearse before
heating) and on the raised from ground vise grips with the other foot.
ERK
Donut force a small thread movement further. Back that movement to
tighten after lubing the newly exposed threading with a VERY LIGHT
oil. brush out if possible as the ferrous oxide take up more room than
Fe with the added Oxygen atoms-as brown dirt.
Know the remainder of an unshaken synth motor oil quart ? That oil.
Those dregs of Finish Line Epic work these threads.

On Nov 7, 7:12*pm, Ronko wrote:
A friend gave me a low-end Truvativ Touro crank, not a great crank.
Non-drive side (left) arm has a pedal on it that will not come off. I
tried using a 3 feet "cheater" pipe over my pedal wrench in
combination with both soaking the joint overnight in MEK and then a
liberal dose of penetrating oil. This sucker will not budge. And yes I
know its reversed threaded so I'm turning clockwise to get it off.
I also tried heating the crank arm around the pedal.

All ideas welcome. Junk crank anyway so what the heck.

If a 3ft cheater can't get it off and you've tried a bench vice, chuck
it. Nothing wrong with a Touro, but a likely cross threaded Touro is
indeed a candidate for the recycling bin.

In article ,
says...


Ronko wrote:
:A friend gave me a low-end Truvativ Touro crank, not a great crank.
:Non-drive side (left) arm has a pedal on it that will not come off. I
:tried using a 3 feet "cheater" pipe over my pedal wrench in
:combination with both soaking the joint overnight in MEK and then
a
:liberal dose of penetrating oil. This sucker will not budge. And yes I
:know its reversed threaded so I'm turning clockwise to get it off.
:I also tried heating the crank arm around the pedal.

:All ideas welcome. Junk crank anyway so what the heck.

Clamp the pedal wrench flats in a good bench vice (cutting the pedal
body away, if you need to), and then beat the crank arm with a dead
blow. If you're after the pedal, that probably won't work.

If it's got an allen key slot on the back, I'd try an impact wrench.


--
sig 13
Impact wrench I have and good idea!

In article ,
says...


Ronko Kreuger wrote:

A friend gave me a low-end Truvativ Touro crank, not a great
crank.

http://tinyurl.com/2dqae4g

Non-drive side (left) arm has a pedal on it that will not come off.
I tried using a 3 feet "cheater" pipe over my pedal wrench in
combination with both soaking the joint overnight in MEK and
then a
liberal dose of penetrating oil. This sucker will not budge. And
yes I know its reversed threaded so I'm turning clockwise to get it
off. I also tried heating the crank arm around the pedal.

All ideas welcome. Junk crank anyway so what the heck.

I cannot understand why the steel pedal spindle will not unscrew
with
the aluminum crank heated, especially having been careful to
recognize
its left hand thread. My experience has been a hated crank makes
this
operation fairly easy, aluminum having a far greater thermal
expansion
than steel.

On the other hand I have a destroyed Campagnolo cone wrench
that a
clumsy rider used trying to remove a firm pedal. One that I later
removed easily with a hefty 12" crescent wrench after heating the
crank.

Jobst Brandt
I will try reheating again. However a crescent wrench will not fit.