How to remove a stuck pedal

On 11/8/2010 11:45 AM, landotter wrote:
On Nov 7, 7:12 pm, wrote:
A friend gave me a low-end Truvativ Touro crank, not a great crank.
Non-drive side (left) arm has a pedal on it that will not come off. I
tried using a 3 feet "cheater" pipe over my pedal wrench in
combination with both soaking the joint overnight in MEK and then a
liberal dose of penetrating oil. This sucker will not budge. And yes I
know its reversed threaded so I'm turning clockwise to get it off.
I also tried heating the crank arm around the pedal.

All ideas welcome. Junk crank anyway so what the heck.

If a 3ft cheater can't get it off and you've tried a bench vice, chuck
it. Nothing wrong with a Touro, but a likely cross threaded Touro is
indeed a candidate for the recycling bin.

I think you got it -- it's likely a right pedal cross threaded on a left
crank. I saw that last year on a trash day bike I grabbed. Surprised me
because it was a pretty nice bike.

I managed to save that crank, once I figured which direction to turn to
remove. I threaded a correct pedal in from the back of the crank to
chase the threads, then carefully threaded it on from the front. A bit
mangled, but seems serviceable.

On 08 Nov 2010 02:03:37 GMT, Jobst Brandt wrote:

I cannot understand why the steel pedal spindle will not unscrew with
the aluminum crank heated, especially having been careful to recognize
its left hand thread. My experience has been a hated crank makes this
operation fairly easy, aluminum having a far greater thermal expansion
than steel.

I tried hating the crank, but no amount of anger would break it free.

By coincidence, I currently have a similar stuck pedal problem, but on
the right side. It's a Time ATAC Alium pedal which is worth
preserving. The Sugino crank isn't anything spectacular, but also
worth saving. The pedal is mostly plastic, and therefore in danger of
melting from excessive heat. The last time I tried the propane torch
trick, I partially melted a cheap resin pedal. What's currently
stopping me from removing the pedal is the lack of a sufficiently
strong 6mm hex driver. All mine are on swing out sets, which are
convenient, but not for this application which requires something that
I can clamp in a bench vice, attach a "torque amplifier" handle, or
connect a breaker bar. So, it's off to the hardware store.

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

On Nov 8, 11:37*am, Peter Cole wrote:
On 11/8/2010 11:45 AM, landotter wrote:

On Nov 7, 7:12 pm, *wrote:
A friend gave me a low-end Truvativ Touro crank, not a great crank.
Non-drive side (left) arm has a pedal on it that will not come off. I
tried using a 3 feet "cheater" pipe over my pedal wrench in
combination with both soaking the joint overnight in MEK and then a
liberal dose of penetrating oil. This sucker will not budge. And yes I
know its reversed threaded so I'm turning clockwise to get it off.
I also tried heating the crank arm around the pedal.

All ideas welcome. Junk crank anyway so what the heck.

If a 3ft cheater can't get it off and you've tried a bench vice, chuck
it. Nothing wrong with a Touro, but a likely cross threaded Touro is
indeed a candidate for the recycling bin.

I think you got it -- it's likely a right pedal cross threaded on a left
crank. I saw that last year on a trash day bike I grabbed. Surprised me
because it was a pretty nice bike.

I managed to save that crank, once I figured which direction to turn to
remove. I threaded a correct pedal in from the back of the crank to
chase the threads, then carefully threaded it on from the front. A bit
mangled, but seems serviceable.

Worth checking the stampings on the pedal shaft for sure.

On Nov 8, 4:50*pm, AMuzi wrote:
kolldata wrote:
-threading from both sides developes a more completely aligned shaped
cure for damaged threading. This may or may not be true but lets give
it a shot right ?
Loctite was developed to save the British Empire
but came along to late.

The original Loctite is from up by Canada, eh.http://www.loctite.com/
Now German owned.

Not at all useful to a pedal shaft in a crank but great
where vibration is a factor.

--
Andrew Muzi
* www.yellowjersey.org/
* Open every day since 1 AD

au contrare ! continuous teeth gnashing on uh fretting pedal loosening
and GSTQ ! square shaft dysfunction are curable with red locktite.
Lock from Can ? no ! sacre blue.

BTW has JB cruised down Cal 178 from Walker Pass to Lake Isabell ?. A
nice spring ride. Light .traffic appears in clusters with the
occasional GP semi hay wagon runnin' lite but not in spring off
course. Only the tight around the rocks squiggles lack a functioning
berm.

On 11/8/2010 9:50 AM, kolldata aka AVOGADRO V wrote:
SEARS has a nifty oxygen acytelene torch kit. THE SOLUTION for all
similar problems-not burning out the Shimano seals with judicious
aluminum foil use, off course-and capable of brazing aluminum with
Bernzomatics Al brazing rods.
To the chase: take a sharp pick, gouge out the end threads at interior
crank side. Find a regular wrench fits the pedal shaft. Attach large
vise grips into the unused wrench opening.
Heat with whatever. Step on the crank with one foot (rehearse before
heating) and on the raised from ground vise grips with the other foot.
ERK
Donut force a small thread movement further. Back that movement to
tighten after lubing the newly exposed threading with a VERY LIGHT
oil. brush out if possible as the ferrous oxide take up more room than
Fe with the added Oxygen atoms-as brown dirt.
Know the remainder of an unshaken synth motor oil quart ? That oil.
Those dregs of Finish Line Epic work these threads.

Or use this:
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/8f/Mk4_Fat_Man_bomb.jpg.

--
Tom Sherman - 42.435731,-83.985007
I am a vehicular cyclist.

On Nov 8, 6:34*pm, Jobst Brandt wrote:
Gene Daniels wrote:
A friend gave me a low-end Truvativ Touro crank, not a great
crank. *Non-drive side (left) arm has a pedal on it that will not
come off. *I tried using a 3 feet "cheater" pipe over my pedal
wrench in combination with both soaking the joint overnight in
MEK and then a liberal dose of penetrating oil. *This sucker will
not budge. *And yes I know its reversed threaded so I'm turning
clockwise to get it off. *I also tried heating the crank arm
around the pedal.
All ideas welcome. *Junk crank anyway so what the heck.
If a 3ft cheater can't get it off and you've tried a bench vice,
chuck it. *Nothing wrong with a Touro, but a likely cross threaded
Touro is indeed a candidate for the recycling bin.
I think you got it -- it's likely a right pedal cross threaded on a
left crank. *I saw that last year on a trash day bike I grabbed.
Surprised me because it was a pretty nice bike.
I managed to save that crank, once I figured which direction to
turn to remove. *I threaded a correct pedal in from the back of the
crank to chase the threads, then carefully threaded it on from the
front. *A bit mangled, but seems serviceable.
Clean well, add red locktite and uroff!

I hope it is clear that a right hand thread does not become a left
hand thread when the screw is entered from the "so called" back side.
I'm not sure what the exercise was intended to do.

It's very basic. Even if I could borrow my friend's taps, I'd still go
into the inside of the crank first, as those are the threads that are
least likely damaged and would guide me to restore the damaged ones as
best as I could.

Ronko wrote:

A friend gave me a low-end Truvativ Touro crank, not a great crank.
Non-drive side (left) arm has a pedal on it that will not come off. I
tried using a 3 feet "cheater" pipe over my pedal wrench in
combination with both soaking the joint overnight in MEK and then a
liberal dose of penetrating oil. This sucker will not budge. And yes I
know its reversed threaded so I'm turning clockwise to get it off.
I also tried heating the crank arm around the pedal.

All ideas welcome. Junk crank anyway so what the heck.

If you don't necessarily want to preserve the crank, just hacksaw through it
to the pedal spindle, and it'll be loose. So you bugger the crank but save
the pedal.
--
Dieter Britz (dieterhansbritzatgmail.com)

On 11/7/2010 5:55 PM, David Scheidt wrote:
wrote:
:A friend gave me a low-end Truvativ Touro crank, not a great crank.
:Non-drive side (left) arm has a pedal on it that will not come off. I
:tried using a 3 feet "cheater" pipe over my pedal wrench in
:combination with both soaking the joint overnight in MEK and then a
:liberal dose of penetrating oil. This sucker will not budge. And yes I
:know its reversed threaded so I'm turning clockwise to get it off.
:I also tried heating the crank arm around the pedal.

:All ideas welcome. Junk crank anyway so what the heck.

Clamp the pedal wrench flats in a good bench vice (cutting the pedal
body away, if you need to), and then beat the crank arm with a dead
blow. If you're after the pedal, that probably won't work.

If it's got an allen key slot on the back, I'd try an impact wrench.

That's the best idea, if the impact wrench won't remove it then it's
hopeless.

Non-bicycling related, I tried an impact wrench on a stuck cleanout pipe
cap and it could not turn it. Finally drilled it out. If the OP wants
the crank, not the pedal, he can probably get the pedal out by using a
drill press on the pedal shaft, drilling several holes, near, but not
touching, the threads.

On 11/8/2010 6:31 PM, landotter wrote:
On Nov 8, 6:34 pm, Jobst wrote:
Gene Daniels wrote:
A friend gave me a low-end Truvativ Touro crank, not a great
crank. Non-drive side (left) arm has a pedal on it that will not
come off. I tried using a 3 feet "cheater" pipe over my pedal
wrench in combination with both soaking the joint overnight in
MEK and then a liberal dose of penetrating oil. This sucker will
not budge. And yes I know its reversed threaded so I'm turning
clockwise to get it off. I also tried heating the crank arm
around the pedal.
All ideas welcome. Junk crank anyway so what the heck.
If a 3ft cheater can't get it off and you've tried a bench vice,
chuck it. Nothing wrong with a Touro, but a likely cross threaded
Touro is indeed a candidate for the recycling bin.
I think you got it -- it's likely a right pedal cross threaded on a
left crank. I saw that last year on a trash day bike I grabbed.
Surprised me because it was a pretty nice bike.
I managed to save that crank, once I figured which direction to
turn to remove. I threaded a correct pedal in from the back of the
crank to chase the threads, then carefully threaded it on from the
front. A bit mangled, but seems serviceable.
Clean well, add red locktite and uroff!

I hope it is clear that a right hand thread does not become a left
hand thread when the screw is entered from the "so called" back side.
I'm not sure what the exercise was intended to do.

It's very basic. Even if I could borrow my friend's taps, I'd still go
into the inside of the crank first, as those are the threads that are
least likely damaged and would guide me to restore the damaged ones as
best as I could.

Yes, that's the best method for restoring slightly damaged threads, with
or without a tap.

Jobst Brandt wrote:

Gene Daniels wrote:

Peter Cole wrote:

I threaded a correct pedal in from the back of the
crank to chase the threads, then carefully threaded it on from the
front. *A bit mangled, but seems serviceable.

Clean well, add red locktite and uroff!

I hope it is clear that a right hand thread does not become a left
hand thread when the screw is entered from the "so called" back side.
I'm not sure what the exercise was intended to do. *

The idea is to do thread forming rather than cutting, piloting on the
intact threads in the back side of the crank arm. It is better to
upset the metal approximately back into place than to remove it
entirely.

Manufacturers often use thread formers rather than taps because the
resulting threads are stronger and no chips are produced.

Chalo