Help! Stuck Schlumpf Shifter Button

TonyMelton;1122952 wrote:
I've got a brake booster on my Maguras already. The play that I'm
talking about feels like the bearings are loose on the axle. Even with
the optimum number of spacers on the axle (as adjusted by Florian
Schlumpf himself) there is still some play. Tightening the torque arm
won't fix it. However it doesn't seem to matter too much and it isn't
noticable (or distinguishable from the crank slop) when riding. I tried
the same hold-the-frame-steady-and-wiggle-side-to-side test on a couple
of other road schlumpf hubs at UNICON and they all had some side to side
play. My conclusion is that this play cannot be eliminated and
originates from the lack of lateral stiffness of the bearings
themselves.



Do you have a silver one or a black one?

On the original (with torque arm) ones, the black hubs were supposed to
be a bit better in this respect - as the black coating appeared to make
the bearing tolerances slightly tighter. That's what I was told anyway,
and why I got the black one.

Joe


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Ken - you *must* know someone with a drill. It's a quick job to drill
off a button. If you do it carefully, it doesn't destroy the button, and
all you need is an easy to get in the hardware shop grub screw/set
screw. If it does destroy the button, then yeah it'll be a bit more
hassle, but better to do that than to destroy your shifting shaft.

For that matter, you're in a hospital - can't you find a surgeon with
an expensive drill and a very steady hand!

For people tightening the buttons to the right amount - the key thing
I've found is first to put the buttons on and get them adjusted right,
then to use *two* allen keys, and tighten them against each other, with
one allen key in each button. That way you seem to be able to get a much
more consistent force onto it.

Joe


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Hurrah! I got it unstuck today, using Spencers double nut technique. I
had to go to the bike shop first to borrow their ISIS crank puller.
Once I got the crank off I was able to tighten the two nuts against each
other, and then unscrew the stuck button on the other side.

The surprising thing is how easy it was. I hadn't actually tightened
it all that hard. I think the trick is to only do the buttons up finger
tight. And NEVER tighten them against each other with the Schlumpf two
pronged tool on both sides. I think that's why it got stuck. I happen
to have two tools because I have two Schlumpfs.


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Glad you got it all unstuck. I was getting a bit worried that you'd have
to send it back to Schlumph.


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It never ends!!!!

I just tried shifting it manually and if you don't push the shifter in
far enough you get to some deadzone where the thing will freewheel
constantly without engagement. Is something broken in my hub? If I
push the button all the way in, it engages and that's not a problem, but
if it's stuck in the half-shift zone it just spins away like a freewheel


That terrifies me. Is that normal?


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Hurray for you for being back in business!
GizmoDuck;1123643 wrote:
I think the trick is to only do the buttons up finger tight.

You mean do the -little screws -only finger tight? Because the -buttons
-you don't tighten at all, you adjust their position to make them flush
with the crank when pushed in. They're not tight because you could screw
them in further. This adjustability is needed because you never know
exactly how far a crank ends up the taper (square or ISI) when
tightened.


GizmoDuck;1123643 wrote:
And NEVER tighten them against each other with the Schlumpf two pronged
tool on both sides. I think that's why it got stuck.

You should indeed never do that, but your statements makes me think
you're appraoching it the wrong way. You shouldn't tighten the buttons
at all. They're somewhere 'halfway' the thread. Fixing them there is
done with the little screws. Read your Schlumpf instructions on how to
position and tighten your buttons.


GizmoDuck;1123643 wrote:
I have two Schlumpfs.

Cool. How many people can say that apart from Schlumpf himself? Does
anyone know?


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It may have to do with how you adjusted (or NOT adjusted) the buttons,
in that the shifter shaft can hardly go in far enough to engage the
other gear because the button holds it back. It is important to get this
right. My Schlumpf instructions bolden that sentence.

GizmoDuck;1123687 wrote:
It never ends!!!!

I just tried shifting it manually and if you don't push the shifter in
far enough you get to some deadzone where the thing will freewheel
constantly without engagement. Is something broken in my hub? If I
push the button all the way in, it engages and that's not a problem, but
if it's stuck in the half-shift zone it just spins away like a freewheel


That terrifies me. Is that normal?


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GizmoDuck;1123643 wrote:
Hurrah! I got it unstuck today, using Spencers double nut technique. I
had to go to the bike shop first to borrow their ISIS crank puller.
Once I got the crank off I was able to tighten the two nuts against each
other, and then unscrew the stuck button on the other side.

The surprising thing is how easy it was.



Yay! I knew it would come good in the end

I hadn't realised that I had just expected you to have removed the
other crank, so probably didn't make it clear that you needed to do that
to get to the thread .

Glad it worked out. And as Klass says, check the instructions for
button adjustment. Mainly by luck, mine seem to be really well
positioned so they're easy to shift (when I want them to), and never
shift by accident, and it's almost impossible to get to the
half-shifted-freewheel stage.

STM


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semach.the.monkey
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GizmoDuck;1123687 wrote:
It never ends!!!!

I just tried shifting it manually and if you don't push the shifter in
far enough you get to some deadzone where the thing will freewheel
constantly without engagement. Is something broken in my hub? If I
push the button all the way in, it engages and that's not a problem, but
if it's stuck in the half-shift zone it just spins away like a freewheel


That terrifies me. Is that normal?



As Klaas Bil notes, if you tighten the button too much on the shaft, it
won't be able to push all the way and the hub won't function properly.
I had some coasting falls when my crank got loose and pushed the button
out.

Loosen the lag bolt (the 2.5mm one that you stripped), and unscrew the
button until it's sitting far enough off the hub; usually, the base of
the button being about level with the outside of the crank is right.
Then lock the button in place with the lag screw.

The way the lag bolt and the Schlupmf slot tool work is, the tool holds
the button while you tighten the lag bolt. The slot tool should be
applying pressure in the *opposite* direction from the lag bolt; you are
locking the lag bolt to the button, not locking the button to the shaft.
Twist them in opposite directions until they are snug.


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I only use the schlumpf tool for loosening the buttons. I just use allen
key and fingers to tighten each one up so they're snug, then tighten the
allen keys whilst holding the other end button still with an allen key
in that. I've not had any problems with buttons, either losing them, or
getting them too tight since starting to do it this way. (I've had one
stuck button - put on too tight in assembly before I bought it, and one
lost button - my fault for not checking).

Joe


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