New belt for old rollers?

i enjoy epoxy on quarters, epox to stop signs....
or you name it...

Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 21:48:27 -0800 (PST), Jay Beattie
wrote:

You can Super Glue the rubber belts? Amazing. I have these short
belts on the old Tackx fans on my rollers, and both have broken -- and
I can't find the proper replacement. I'll give it a try. -- Jay
Beattie.

Yep. I've used Super Glue (cyranoacrylate adhesive) for fixing tape
recorders and record turntables using continuous O-ring material. I've
fixed an old Nashbar branded roller, where the O-ring had severely
stretched over the years. I just chopped out a piece and glued the
ends together, thus tightening the o-ring. Prior to that, I used a
piece of nylon rope with the ends melted together. The rollers had a
grove deep enough to grab the rope. The rope trick worked, but
sometimes slipped.

However, there are a few tricks. Use the regular Super Glue, not the
"gel" variety. Cut the rubber O-ring material with a sharp razor
blade, not scissors or diagonal cutters. The glue surface must be
flat. Make the cuts at about a 45 degree angle. The problem is that
while the rubber is flexible and fairly compressible, the glue joint
is not. If you crunch the glue joint, the glue might crack and the
joint fail. If you cut it at an angle, compressing the joint has less
of an effect than a perpendicular cut. That's a problem when using
the o-ring for sealing something that will compress the o-ring, such
as a plumbing joint, but not so much of a problem with the roller.
With a diagonal cut, you also have a larger contact surface for
strength.

I'm not sure if Super Glue is the best adhesive for the purpose. I've
done some minor experiments with Gorilla Glue (urethane adhesive) on
rubber parts. It seems to work, but I've never used it for a belt or
o-ring. Still, I think it's worth a try.


I've used Gorilla Glue on smooth plastic that other glues wouldn't bond
to. I also use "PL" construction adhesive, which is also a urethane. For
rubbery stuff, I've usually used "Pliobond", and sometimes contact cement.

On Mon, 22 Feb 2010 15:01:36 -0800 (PST), datakoll
wrote:

SUPER GLUE is extremely brittle. I await Jay's test result. From here,
seams a coupla passes in tension AROUND a drum wood snap the glue if
not the bond.

If you cut the rubber o-ring perpendicular to the length, squashing
the joint will crack the glue and the joint will fail. However,
that's only a problem if the joint is in compression, as in a plumbing
seal. In this case, the joint is always in tension, which will not
crack the joint. There may be some flexing around the roller, but the
roller diameter is sufficiently large that it won't be a problem.

The o-ring should be cut very flat and at about 45 to 60 degrees with
a razzor blade. It does take some practice and a very sharp safety
razor. This angular cut will substantially increase the surface area,
giving more bonding strength. It will also decrease the
susceptibility to crushing as there is no position of the o-ring where
lateral compression can break the glue joint. I'm a bit worried if
someone steps on the glue joint, but that's unlikely,

As I indicated in another message, I've Super Glued the rubber band on
a Nashbar (same as Performance?) roller. I donated this roller to a
thrift shop about 3 years ago after I fell asleep riding and nearly
ran into my wood burning stove. I now have a trainer, which isn't as
good, but far safer. I know the person that bought it. No problems.



--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

On Feb 23, 5:29*am, Peter Cole wrote:
Jeff Liebermann wrote:

I'm not sure if Super Glue is the best adhesive for the purpose. *I've
done some minor experiments with Gorilla Glue (urethane adhesive) on
rubber parts. *It seems to work, but I've never used it for a belt or
o-ring. *Still, I think it's worth a try.

I've used Gorilla Glue on smooth plastic that other glues wouldn't bond
to. I also use "PL" construction adhesive, which is also a urethane. For
rubbery stuff, I've usually used "Pliobond", and sometimes contact cement..

You could also try "Barge cement", which is a brand
named Barge, and not actually used for gluing barges
together, as far as I know. It is available in hardware
stores, and is often recommended for regluing the
soles of shoes. I have used it to reglue the sole of
a XC ski/telemark boot that peeled off the midsole,
and it seems to have worked well for that.

Performance products are often rebadged versions of
some other brand, and of course roller belts are fairly
interchangeable if the length and diameter fit. I'd try
an LBS that sells Tacx rollers and parts.

Ben

the internet has resources explaing glue. I have a can of nylon glue
just amazing for contact cementing tents-bags-packs-jackets
there's a glue for every materail and use - if you're lucky.
one should educate on it.