Wheel bearing - pre-load & run in.

Loose ball bearings, cones & cups;

Pre load & run in.

How tight is too tight?

Thanks.

On Thursday, August 28, 2014 3:50:50 PM UTC-4, Ian Field wrote:
Loose ball bearings, cones & cups;



Pre load & run in.



How tight is too tight?



Thanks.

Here's a good source of repair info:
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help

and more specifically:
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...and-adjustment

- Frank Krygowski

depends. a new unit is tight to not wiggle axially when gripping rim sides

an older unit is problematic.

clean, replace bearings....cone/ball ? or cartridge ? a cartridge is as new and may wiggle but without adjustment, usually.

pack the cone/ball with grease then having loctited one side axle/cone lightly tighten loose cone over blue Loctite.snubb up tighten lock nut to cone. spin wheel. untighten cone and lock nut, finger tighten cone snub lock nut..

test for wiggle. spin wheel. test for wiggle.

spin free? relative lack of axial wiggle (play) a use able word here from Poured Bearings Lmtd...

ok no make a subjective judgement...is that wiggle spin good enough for you ?

if so, ride,if not try again.

1. used hubs are very diffiuclt get get just right as the unit is no longer round. using a good grease like Finish Line or Bulldozed Soap Red solves the prob to some extent.

2. the assembly needs a qualified mechanic which you are not ( me neither)

as when tightening in the first wrench tighten, the unit compresses both sides, axle bends, bearings seat ( got wear lines on the cones ? no good maybe rideable maybe not)

there a lotta stuff to balance there from both sides hub which is why I lock one side down trying to simplify.

I'm doing my Ford's front brakes/bearings. I'll post that bearing load adjustment.

the preload ? only 'PRELOAD' with experience. new wrenches should not PRELOAD

just squeeze the unit lightly BEARING contact tight from one side...you can hear or feel the bearings rumble when the unit is lightly tight. try a stethoscope of metal pipe to an ear or forehead. Just when the noise or rmble begins and just before that...this is novitiate preload.

so you see there's good preload and bad preload and subjective load with a used unit.

wrote in message
...
depends. a new unit is tight to not wiggle axially when gripping rim sides

an older unit is problematic.

clean, replace bearings....cone/ball ? or cartridge ? a cartridge is as
new and may wiggle but without adjustment, usually.

pack the cone/ball with grease then having loctited one side axle/cone
lightly tighten loose cone over blue Loctite.snubb up tighten lock nut to
cone. spin wheel. untighten cone and lock nut, finger tighten cone snub
lock nut.

test for wiggle. spin wheel. test for wiggle.

spin free? relative lack of axial wiggle (play) a use able word here from
Poured Bearings Lmtd...

ok no make a subjective judgement...is that wiggle spin good enough for
you ?

if so, ride,if not try again.

So far - I've tightened the cone and locked it so it was a bit stiff to turn
by hand, but free enough to turn when I hung a wrench on it.

With the wheel back in the bike, it rolls to and fro easily as if nothing is
too tight.

This is the bearing I've been having so much trouble with - if it wears
loose again; its time to try another wheel!

On Friday, August 29, 2014 12:04:33 PM UTC-4, Ian Field wrote:
wrote in message

...

depends. a new unit is tight to not wiggle axially when gripping rim sides



an older unit is problematic.



clean, replace bearings....cone/ball ? or cartridge ? a cartridge is as

new and may wiggle but without adjustment, usually.



pack the cone/ball with grease then having loctited one side axle/cone

lightly tighten loose cone over blue Loctite.snubb up tighten lock nut to

cone. spin wheel. untighten cone and lock nut, finger tighten cone snub

lock nut.



test for wiggle. spin wheel. test for wiggle.



spin free? relative lack of axial wiggle (play) a use able word here from

Poured Bearings Lmtd...



ok no make a subjective judgement...is that wiggle spin good enough for

you ?



if so, ride,if not try again.



So far - I've tightened the cone and locked it so it was a bit stiff to turn

by hand, but free enough to turn when I hung a wrench on it.



With the wheel back in the bike, it rolls to and fro easily as if nothing is

too tight.



This is the bearing I've been having so much trouble with - if it wears

loose again; its time to try another wheel!

http://miketechinfo.com/new-tech-whe...s.htm#Wheelset Evaluation

if bearings rumble either in feel or hearing then bearings and cones are gonna wear out soon....like zero usefulness

no way to adjust an elliptical bearing housing...and worn housings are all elliptical...worn machinery is elliptical...chain holes wear elliptically ifn yawl doahn switch chain directions.

caws an adjustment set at one total wheel/ bearing state then changes dimension when the wheel turns into another state

there's a trick to facilitate these wron adjustments....loosely so all turning states are accomadated, with thick grease.

wrote in message
...
if bearings rumble either in feel or hearing then bearings and cones are
gonna wear out soon....like zero usefulness

Its got me beat - I put in new ball bearings bought from a different shop, I
checked the locknuts hadn't worked loose before taking it apart and I
examined the wear lines on the cones.

If it keeps on doing it, I'm resigned to keep adjusting AR until something
breaks properly.

On Sunday, August 31, 2014 2:45:30 PM UTC-4, Ian Field wrote:
wrote in message

...

if bearings rumble either in feel or hearing then bearings and cones are

gonna wear out soon....like zero usefulness



Its got me beat - I put in new ball bearings bought from a different shop, I

checked the locknuts hadn't worked loose before taking it apart and I

examined the wear lines on the cones.



If it keeps on doing it, I'm resigned to keep adjusting AR until something

breaks properly.

I had that problem on a wheel many years ago. Painting tyhe inside of the cups and then putting in new balls and then adjusting the cone and locknut then riding for a few weeks then opening up the hub again revealed my problem. The paint showed a thin line of silver. Turned out that one of the cups in the hub was moving inboard slightly over time. Needed a new hub on that wheel.

Cheers

"Sir Ridesalot" wrote in message
...
On Sunday, August 31, 2014 2:45:30 PM UTC-4, Ian Field wrote:
wrote in message

...

if bearings rumble either in feel or hearing then bearings and cones
are

gonna wear out soon....like zero usefulness



Its got me beat - I put in new ball bearings bought from a different
shop, I

checked the locknuts hadn't worked loose before taking it apart and I

examined the wear lines on the cones.



If it keeps on doing it, I'm resigned to keep adjusting AR until
something

breaks properly.

I had that problem on a wheel many years ago. Painting tyhe inside of the
cups and then putting in new balls and then adjusting the cone and locknut
then riding for a few weeks then opening up the hub again revealed my
problem. The paint showed a thin line of silver. Turned out that one of
the cups in the hub was moving inboard slightly over time. Needed a new
hub on that wheel.

When I went in Halfrauds to buy ball bearings, I could only buy pre-packed 7
balls in a cage and a cone.

Today I went in Halfrauds to buy a pair of cones - the ****wit behind the
counter told me "we don't sell cones - you have to buy a complete spindle
kit".

The cones in it look OK, but apart from swapping out the whole wheel its the
only thing I haven't tried yet.

Apart from a BMX/skateboard shop that stocks very little of any use to a
MTB - the only other shop in town is exploiting the discontent with
Halfrauds to fleece the yuppies.

Fullfrauds has a complete stock