handlebar width for new road bike

Hi:

I currently use an old Brahma bar on an old Giant Iguana mountain bike
for road riding (sounds crazy?). If you don't know what a braham bar
is, here's a pic:

http://www.bikepro.com/products/hand...c1c_brahma.jpg

Some manufacturers also call this a trial bar since it's really good
for sprinting and up hills (which is what I really use it for). I
think triatheletes use them as well..

I have found this bar very comfortable on long (over 50 miles) since
it lets me stretch out while remaining slightly upright. The complaint
I hear a lot from other road riders is that the drop bars lean them
over too much and they strain their necks too look up and enjoy the
scenery. I like to see where I'm going without sitting up too high. I
think i have found the right compromise for me.

I know it's a little unconventional, but I like it....

Now it's time for a new bike and I'd like to keep this same setup and
I want some advise to make sure I'm using the correct width. The one I
have places my hand a bit wider than shoulder width, because my brake
levers are more at shoulder width. This way I really have several
comforatble hand positions (which is really very important to me).

Any guidance on selecting widths? By the way, the bikes I have been
looking at include the Trek 7700 FX and Specialized Sirrus Pro which
are both road-type bikes with narrower tires set up like a mountain
bike.

Any input would be great.

Thanks,

Warren

Warren,

Conventional wisdom on handlebar width is as follows: On your shoulder, you
should be able to feel a knobby protrusion kind of at the top and center of
the shoulder. It would pretty much be where a line coming up through the
center of your arm would meet the shoulder. Get someone to measure the
distance from one knobby protrusion to the other (impossible to do
yourself). That distance, in centimeters, should be the center-to-center
width of a conventional set of road bars. How you'll need to depart from
that for your steer horns is maybe a good question for some triathlete
types.

A comment on your position. I see road riders all the time who are cramped
on their bikes. There's a general rule that, using conventional bars, when
you're riding with your hands on the brake hoods, the handlebar should be
directly in line with the front hub (obscuring your view of it). These
kinds of general rules never work for everyone, but that's one that's really
worked for me. It puts my back in a very flat and comfortable position and
distributes my weight very comfortably between the saddle and the bars. You
might want to try that with a set of conventional bars. If it works, you'll
have the comfort you're looking for, plus the flexibility to get down in the
drops when you need a more aero position.

Enjoy your new bike!

Bob C.
"Warren Ginn" wrote in message
om...
Hi:

I currently use an old Brahma bar on an old Giant Iguana mountain bike
for road riding (sounds crazy?). If you don't know what a braham bar
is, here's a pic:

http://www.bikepro.com/products/hand...c1c_brahma.jpg

Some manufacturers also call this a trial bar since it's really good
for sprinting and up hills (which is what I really use it for). I
think triatheletes use them as well..

I have found this bar very comfortable on long (over 50 miles) since
it lets me stretch out while remaining slightly upright. The complaint
I hear a lot from other road riders is that the drop bars lean them
over too much and they strain their necks too look up and enjoy the
scenery. I like to see where I'm going without sitting up too high. I
think i have found the right compromise for me.

I know it's a little unconventional, but I like it....

Now it's time for a new bike and I'd like to keep this same setup and
I want some advise to make sure I'm using the correct width. The one I
have places my hand a bit wider than shoulder width, because my brake
levers are more at shoulder width. This way I really have several
comforatble hand positions (which is really very important to me).

Any guidance on selecting widths? By the way, the bikes I have been
looking at include the Trek 7700 FX and Specialized Sirrus Pro which
are both road-type bikes with narrower tires set up like a mountain
bike.

Any input would be great.

Thanks,

Warren

Thanks Robert,

I never knew how to figure out this mmeasurement for handlebar width.

John


"Robert Chambers" wrote in message ...
Warren,

Conventional wisdom on handlebar width is as follows: On your shoulder, you
should be able to feel a knobby protrusion kind of at the top and center of
the shoulder. It would pretty much be where a line coming up through the
center of your arm would meet the shoulder. Get someone to measure the
distance from one knobby protrusion to the other (impossible to do
yourself). That distance, in centimeters, should be the center-to-center
width of a conventional set of road bars. How you'll need to depart from
that for your steer horns is maybe a good question for some triathlete
types.

A comment on your position. I see road riders all the time who are cramped
on their bikes. There's a general rule that, using conventional bars, when
you're riding with your hands on the brake hoods, the handlebar should be
directly in line with the front hub (obscuring your view of it). These
kinds of general rules never work for everyone, but that's one that's really
worked for me. It puts my back in a very flat and comfortable position and
distributes my weight very comfortably between the saddle and the bars. You
might want to try that with a set of conventional bars. If it works, you'll
have the comfort you're looking for, plus the flexibility to get down in the
drops when you need a more aero position.

Enjoy your new bike!

Bob C.
"Warren Ginn" wrote in message
om...
Hi:

I currently use an old Brahma bar on an old Giant Iguana mountain bike
for road riding (sounds crazy?). If you don't know what a braham bar
is, here's a pic:

http://www.bikepro.com/products/hand...c1c_brahma.jpg

Some manufacturers also call this a trial bar since it's really good
for sprinting and up hills (which is what I really use it for). I
think triatheletes use them as well..

I have found this bar very comfortable on long (over 50 miles) since
it lets me stretch out while remaining slightly upright. The complaint
I hear a lot from other road riders is that the drop bars lean them
over too much and they strain their necks too look up and enjoy the
scenery. I like to see where I'm going without sitting up too high. I
think i have found the right compromise for me.

I know it's a little unconventional, but I like it....

Now it's time for a new bike and I'd like to keep this same setup and
I want some advise to make sure I'm using the correct width. The one I
have places my hand a bit wider than shoulder width, because my brake
levers are more at shoulder width. This way I really have several
comforatble hand positions (which is really very important to me).

Any guidance on selecting widths? By the way, the bikes I have been
looking at include the Trek 7700 FX and Specialized Sirrus Pro which
are both road-type bikes with narrower tires set up like a mountain
bike.

Any input would be great.

Thanks,

Warren

(John Aurentz) wrote in message . com...
Thanks Robert,

I never knew how to figure out this mmeasurement for handlebar width.

John


"Robert Chambers" wrote in message ...
Warren,

Conventional wisdom on handlebar width is as follows: On your shoulder, you
should be able to feel a knobby protrusion kind of at the top and center of
the shoulder. It would pretty much be where a line coming up through the
center of your arm would meet the shoulder. Get someone to measure the
distance from one knobby protrusion to the other (impossible to do
yourself). That distance, in centimeters, should be the center-to-center
width of a conventional set of road bars. How you'll need to depart from
that for your steer horns is maybe a good question for some triathlete
types.

At what convention was it decided. Why do riders go for that narrower
hand position when riding alone during a road race, as if trying to use
imaginary tri-bars. Does this not give a hint that something is wrong with
the technique or equipment setup.

In article ,
says...

....

Conventional wisdom on handlebar width is as follows: On your shoulder, you
should be able to feel a knobby protrusion kind of at the top and center of
the shoulder. It would pretty much be where a line coming up through the
center of your arm would meet the shoulder. Get someone to measure the
distance from one knobby protrusion to the other (impossible to do
yourself). That distance, in centimeters, should be the center-to-center
width of a conventional set of road bars. How you'll need to depart from
that for your steer horns is maybe a good question for some triathlete
types.

At what convention was it decided.

Long experience has shown that it works at least as a starting point
for most riders.


Why do riders go for that narrower
hand position when riding alone during a road race, as if trying to use
imaginary tri-bars. Does this not give a hint that something is wrong with
the technique or equipment setup.

Aerodynamics, that's why. When riding alone, you don't need quite as
precise control of the bike, so you can put your hands and arms in the
more aero/less stable position.

--
Dave Kerber
Fight spam: remove the ns_ from the return address before replying!

REAL programmers write self-modifying code.

(n crowley) wrote:

"Robert Chambers" wrote in message ...
Warren,

Conventional wisdom on handlebar width is as follows: On your shoulder, you
should be able to feel a knobby protrusion kind of at the top and center of
the shoulder. It would pretty much be where a line coming up through the
center of your arm would meet the shoulder. Get someone to measure the
distance from one knobby protrusion to the other (impossible to do
yourself). That distance, in centimeters, should be the center-to-center
width of a conventional set of road bars. How you'll need to depart from
that for your steer horns is maybe a good question for some triathlete
types.

At what convention was it decided. Why do riders go for that narrower
hand position when riding alone during a road race, as if trying to use
imaginary tri-bars. Does this not give a hint that something is wrong with
the technique or equipment setup.

They slide forward when they're going hammer and tongs too - is the
"conventional wisdom" of saddle placement wrong? And they'll slide
back on the saddle when climbing.

Or are you *really* suggesting that anyone who might use the flats of
the bars occasionally (it's done commonly during a climb, too...) is
riding a horribly set up bike?

Surely not...

Mark Hickey
Habanero Cycles
http://www.habcycles.com
Home of the $695 ti frame

David Kerber wrote in message ...
In article ,
says...

...



Why do riders go for that narrower
hand position when riding alone during a road race, as if trying to use
imaginary tri-bars. Does this not give a hint that something is wrong with
the technique or equipment setup.

Aerodynamics, that's why. When riding alone, you don't need quite as
precise control of the bike, so you can put your hands and arms in the
more aero/less stable position.


I understand the aerodynamic advantage, but in that position he cannot use
his arms. Why do the bars have to be so wide, narrower bars would reduce the
risk of bar touching accidents when riding in groups.

In article ,
says...
David Kerber wrote in message ...
In article ,
says...

...



Why do riders go for that narrower
hand position when riding alone during a road race, as if trying to use
imaginary tri-bars. Does this not give a hint that something is wrong with
the technique or equipment setup.

Aerodynamics, that's why. When riding alone, you don't need quite as
precise control of the bike, so you can put your hands and arms in the
more aero/less stable position.


I understand the aerodynamic advantage, but in that position he cannot use
his arms. Why do the bars have to be so wide, narrower bars would reduce the
risk of bar touching accidents when riding in groups.

I'm just speculating here, but it makes sense to me that the bars
would be of a width where the arms run straight forward and back,
neither angling in or out, again for aerodynamic reasons. They also
need to be wide enough to give good control when climbing, riding in a
pack, or on rough roads. The aerobar position (whether there are
actually bars there or not) does not give good control.


--
Dave Kerber
Fight spam: remove the ns_ from the return address before replying!

REAL programmers write self-modifying code.

Wider bars open up the chest allowing easier breathing (when hands are on
the hoods or drops). I just switched from a 40mm to 44mm and it did make a
big difference. But being 6'3" I shoulda never been on 40mm to begin with.


"n crowley" wrote in message
om...
David Kerber wrote in message
...
In article ,
says...

...



Why do riders go for that narrower
hand position when riding alone during a road race, as if trying to
use
imaginary tri-bars. Does this not give a hint that something is wrong
with
the technique or equipment setup.

Aerodynamics, that's why. When riding alone, you don't need quite as
precise control of the bike, so you can put your hands and arms in the
more aero/less stable position.


I understand the aerodynamic advantage, but in that position he cannot
use
his arms. Why do the bars have to be so wide, narrower bars would reduce
the
risk of bar touching accidents when riding in groups.

Thanks, Bob.

So, what do you think of stretching out on "bull horns" as opposed to
drop bars? I like the wider grip and I feel I have better control -
and I can also see better - than those tucked further down. I know I'm
giving up some aerodynamics in exchange for a better view a little
more comfort. But am I missing anything here? Am I going to regret
setting the bike up this way, or is it pure preference and I just like
an unconventional set up?

Thanks again.

Warren

"Robert Chambers" wrote in message ...
Warren,

Conventional wisdom on handlebar width is as follows: On your shoulder, you
should be able to feel a knobby protrusion kind of at the top and center of
the shoulder. It would pretty much be where a line coming up through the
center of your arm would meet the shoulder. Get someone to measure the
distance from one knobby protrusion to the other (impossible to do
yourself). That distance, in centimeters, should be the center-to-center
width of a conventional set of road bars. How you'll need to depart from
that for your steer horns is maybe a good question for some triathlete
types.

A comment on your position. I see road riders all the time who are cramped
on their bikes. There's a general rule that, using conventional bars, when
you're riding with your hands on the brake hoods, the handlebar should be
directly in line with the front hub (obscuring your view of it). These
kinds of general rules never work for everyone, but that's one that's really
worked for me. It puts my back in a very flat and comfortable position and
distributes my weight very comfortably between the saddle and the bars. You
might want to try that with a set of conventional bars. If it works, you'll
have the comfort you're looking for, plus the flexibility to get down in the
drops when you need a more aero position.

Enjoy your new bike!

Bob C.
"Warren Ginn" wrote in message
om...
Hi:

I currently use an old Brahma bar on an old Giant Iguana mountain bike
for road riding (sounds crazy?). If you don't know what a braham bar
is, here's a pic:

http://www.bikepro.com/products/hand...c1c_brahma.jpg

Some manufacturers also call this a trial bar since it's really good
for sprinting and up hills (which is what I really use it for). I
think triatheletes use them as well..

I have found this bar very comfortable on long (over 50 miles) since
it lets me stretch out while remaining slightly upright. The complaint
I hear a lot from other road riders is that the drop bars lean them
over too much and they strain their necks too look up and enjoy the
scenery. I like to see where I'm going without sitting up too high. I
think i have found the right compromise for me.

I know it's a little unconventional, but I like it....

Now it's time for a new bike and I'd like to keep this same setup and
I want some advise to make sure I'm using the correct width. The one I
have places my hand a bit wider than shoulder width, because my brake
levers are more at shoulder width. This way I really have several
comforatble hand positions (which is really very important to me).

Any guidance on selecting widths? By the way, the bikes I have been
looking at include the Trek 7700 FX and Specialized Sirrus Pro which
are both road-type bikes with narrower tires set up like a mountain
bike.

Any input would be great.

Thanks,

Warren