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Square-taper cranks won't come off. Tricks?



 
 
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  #21  
Old May 23rd 17, 09:39 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Ian Field
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 250
Default Square-taper cranks won't come off. Tricks?



"Doug Landau" wrote in message
...
On Tuesday, May 23, 2017 at 12:27:33 PM UTC-7, Ian Field wrote:
"Doug Landau" wrote in message
...
On Tuesday, May 23, 2017 at 10:58:39 AM UTC-7, Ian Field wrote:
"Joerg" wrote in message
...
The BB on my steel-frame bike is knackered and I can't get the
cranks
off
the square tapers anymore. Afraid I'll strip out the thread of the
puller
tool. Various penetrating sprays didn't help.

The first puller tool I bought was NFG - it was pretty rare that it
didn't
strip the thread. The one I bought from Halfords has worked OK on even
the
difficult cranks.

Most of the alternatives involve varying degrees of damage.

Hammering it is likely to destroy the BB ball bearings and cups. Heat
can
work, but the cranks are usually coated and will be ruined.

If it requires extreme violence - you could damage the frame. I'd
hacksaw
the ends off the spindle so I can dismantle the BB bearing and start
over
with new parts.

Some copper no-seize grease on square taper reassembly might make
things
easier next time.

Why Copper


Coppaslip is probably one of the best known anti-seize compounds, I have
a
tub of silver coloured grease that might be zinc, lead and various other
ingredients.


But it has no aluminum to give up to the reaction so the crank doesn't
have to.


I didn't bother reading the small print - and I'm wondering whether you did
either.

Ads
  #22  
Old May 23rd 17, 09:47 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Ian Field
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 250
Default Square-taper cranks won't come off. Tricks?



"AMuzi" wrote in message
news
On 5/23/2017 2:27 PM, Ian Field wrote:


"Doug Landau" wrote in message
...
On Tuesday, May 23, 2017 at 10:58:39 AM UTC-7, Ian Field
wrote:
"Joerg" wrote in message
...
The BB on my steel-frame bike is knackered and I can't
get the cranks off
the square tapers anymore. Afraid I'll strip out the
thread of the puller
tool. Various penetrating sprays didn't help.

The first puller tool I bought was NFG - it was pretty
rare that it didn't
strip the thread. The one I bought from Halfords has
worked OK on even the
difficult cranks.

Most of the alternatives involve varying degrees of damage.

Hammering it is likely to destroy the BB ball bearings
and cups. Heat can
work, but the cranks are usually coated and will be ruined.

If it requires extreme violence - you could damage the
frame. I'd hacksaw
the ends off the spindle so I can dismantle the BB
bearing and start over
with new parts.

Some copper no-seize grease on square taper reassembly
might make things
easier next time.

Why Copper


Coppaslip is probably one of the best known anti-seize
compounds, I have a tub of silver coloured grease that might
be zinc, lead and various other ingredients.


Usually molybdenum when it isn't copper based. Either is good for
anticorrosive protection.


Molybdenum is a "friction modifier" - I've never heard anyone describe it as
corrosion protection. AFAIK: its no more so than most other types of grease.

Engine oil additives like molyslip aren't very resistant to weather exposure
at all.

I've been using molybdenum grease on my chain, it didn't stop that going
rusty, but I had let it get a bit dry.

  #23  
Old May 24th 17, 05:56 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
[email protected]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 6,374
Default Square-taper cranks won't come off. Tricks?

NO propane torch or heat gun suggestions ?

what are yawl stupid ?

the Shimano puller is used on CLEAN THREADS down to the bottom

toast the crank, pull n the cranks slide off.

MORONS

pedals come off on bike

clean thread ends.....soak in PCBlaster one day by wrapping a PC wetted cloth around the end

block up bike n pedal off ground

insert vice grips ,,,and short pipe into the vise adj end ....then grip the open end of the pedal wrench.

heat .....no not the tire .... heat crank with torch ,,,

then step squeeze down on wrench assembly

RETARDS no wonder yawl post BS abt removing or mounting tires
  #24  
Old May 24th 17, 06:17 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Joerg[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 6,016
Default Square-taper cranks won't come off. Tricks?

On 2017-05-23 13:47, Ian Field wrote:


"AMuzi" wrote in message
news
On 5/23/2017 2:27 PM, Ian Field wrote:


"Doug Landau" wrote in message
...
On Tuesday, May 23, 2017 at 10:58:39 AM UTC-7, Ian Field
wrote:
"Joerg" wrote in message
...
The BB on my steel-frame bike is knackered and I can't
get the cranks off
the square tapers anymore. Afraid I'll strip out the
thread of the puller
tool. Various penetrating sprays didn't help.

The first puller tool I bought was NFG - it was pretty
rare that it didn't
strip the thread. The one I bought from Halfords has
worked OK on even the
difficult cranks.

Most of the alternatives involve varying degrees of damage.

Hammering it is likely to destroy the BB ball bearings
and cups. Heat can
work, but the cranks are usually coated and will be ruined.

If it requires extreme violence - you could damage the
frame. I'd hacksaw
the ends off the spindle so I can dismantle the BB
bearing and start over
with new parts.

Some copper no-seize grease on square taper reassembly
might make things
easier next time.

Why Copper

Coppaslip is probably one of the best known anti-seize
compounds, I have a tub of silver coloured grease that might
be zinc, lead and various other ingredients.


Usually molybdenum when it isn't copper based. Either is good for
anticorrosive protection.


Molybdenum is a "friction modifier" - I've never heard anyone describe
it as corrosion protection. AFAIK: its no more so than most other types
of grease.

Engine oil additives like molyslip aren't very resistant to weather
exposure at all.

I've been using molybdenum grease on my chain, it didn't stop that going
rusty, but I had let it get a bit dry.



I normally use LiquiMoly LM48 on such joints. On the MTB seatpost I use
Permatex Aluminum Anti-Seize Lubricant (metal-color). The tubes of the
latter need to be stored upright, else the solvent can ooze out. I found
out the hard way.

No longterm experience with the Permatex yet, started early this year,
but with LiquiMoly I never had any weather exposure issues and I keep on
riding even when it is really nasty outside.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/
  #25  
Old May 24th 17, 06:24 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
AMuzi
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 13,447
Default Square-taper cranks won't come off. Tricks?

On 5/23/2017 3:47 PM, Ian Field wrote:


"AMuzi" wrote in message
news
On 5/23/2017 2:27 PM, Ian Field wrote:


"Doug Landau" wrote in message
...

On Tuesday, May 23, 2017 at 10:58:39 AM UTC-7, Ian Field
wrote:
"Joerg" wrote in message
...
The BB on my steel-frame bike is knackered and I can't
get the cranks off
the square tapers anymore. Afraid I'll strip out the
thread of the puller
tool. Various penetrating sprays didn't help.

The first puller tool I bought was NFG - it was pretty
rare that it didn't
strip the thread. The one I bought from Halfords has
worked OK on even the
difficult cranks.

Most of the alternatives involve varying degrees of
damage.

Hammering it is likely to destroy the BB ball bearings
and cups. Heat can
work, but the cranks are usually coated and will be
ruined.

If it requires extreme violence - you could damage the
frame. I'd hacksaw
the ends off the spindle so I can dismantle the BB
bearing and start over
with new parts.

Some copper no-seize grease on square taper reassembly
might make things
easier next time.

Why Copper

Coppaslip is probably one of the best known anti-seize
compounds, I have a tub of silver coloured grease that might
be zinc, lead and various other ingredients.


Usually molybdenum when it isn't copper based. Either is
good for anticorrosive protection.


Molybdenum is a "friction modifier" - I've never heard
anyone describe it as corrosion protection. AFAIK: its no
more so than most other types of grease.

Engine oil additives like molyslip aren't very resistant to
weather exposure at all.

I've been using molybdenum grease on my chain, it didn't
stop that going rusty, but I had let it get a bit dry.


You should tell this manufacturer to save money by skipping
the molybdenum:
https://www.superior-industries.com/...oduct_237.html

Since it meets a mil spec, it's all a conspiracy, yes?

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971


  #26  
Old May 24th 17, 07:08 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Ian Field
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 250
Default Square-taper cranks won't come off. Tricks?



"AMuzi" wrote in message
news
On 5/23/2017 3:47 PM, Ian Field wrote:


"AMuzi" wrote in message
news
On 5/23/2017 2:27 PM, Ian Field wrote:


"Doug Landau" wrote in message
...

On Tuesday, May 23, 2017 at 10:58:39 AM UTC-7, Ian Field
wrote:
"Joerg" wrote in message
...
The BB on my steel-frame bike is knackered and I can't
get the cranks off
the square tapers anymore. Afraid I'll strip out the
thread of the puller
tool. Various penetrating sprays didn't help.

The first puller tool I bought was NFG - it was pretty
rare that it didn't
strip the thread. The one I bought from Halfords has
worked OK on even the
difficult cranks.

Most of the alternatives involve varying degrees of
damage.

Hammering it is likely to destroy the BB ball bearings
and cups. Heat can
work, but the cranks are usually coated and will be
ruined.

If it requires extreme violence - you could damage the
frame. I'd hacksaw
the ends off the spindle so I can dismantle the BB
bearing and start over
with new parts.

Some copper no-seize grease on square taper reassembly
might make things
easier next time.

Why Copper

Coppaslip is probably one of the best known anti-seize
compounds, I have a tub of silver coloured grease that might
be zinc, lead and various other ingredients.

Usually molybdenum when it isn't copper based. Either is
good for anticorrosive protection.


Molybdenum is a "friction modifier" - I've never heard
anyone describe it as corrosion protection. AFAIK: its no
more so than most other types of grease.

Engine oil additives like molyslip aren't very resistant to
weather exposure at all.

I've been using molybdenum grease on my chain, it didn't
stop that going rusty, but I had let it get a bit dry.


You should tell this manufacturer to save money by skipping the
molybdenum:


The molybdenum grease was about the same price or maybe slightly cheaper
than general purpose grease.

Its sold as car wheel bearing CV grease (whatever that means) - there were
no claims on the label about any special corrosion protection.

I use it because molybdenum is a pretty good friction modifier - which is a
claim the label *DOES* make.

  #27  
Old May 24th 17, 08:16 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
[email protected]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 3,345
Default Square-taper cranks won't come off. Tricks?

On Wednesday, May 24, 2017 at 10:24:50 AM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote:

You should tell this manufacturer to save money by skipping
the molybdenum:
https://www.superior-industries.com/...oduct_237.html

Since it meets a mil spec, it's all a conspiracy, yes?


Remember that there is a difference between anti-seize and over-tightening.
  #28  
Old May 24th 17, 10:47 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
[email protected]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 6,374
Default Square-taper cranks won't come off. Tricks?

Mil Spec is engineering tested then production checked for adherence.

but for what ? inside tank turret bearings, Gatling gun bushing/connectors at altitude ? submarine doors ?

the aftermarket buys leftovers then sells for general use age.

silver anti-seize usually contains linseed. Closer to the water anti seizes contain more linseed than garage linseeds as some twits find the odor. objectionable.

take the silver n add MORE linseed. Linseed is a vegetable polymer coating.


  #29  
Old May 25th 17, 11:22 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Joerg[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 6,016
Default Square-taper cranks won't come off. Tricks?

On 2017-05-23 08:29, jbeattie wrote:
On Tuesday, May 23, 2017 at 7:18:56 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-05-22 13:43, Joerg wrote:
The BB on my steel-frame bike is knackered and I can't get the
cranks off the square tapers anymore. Afraid I'll strip out the
thread of the puller tool. Various penetrating sprays didn't
help.

From the last time the BB was replaced the bike experienced a
transport across the Atlantic on a ship which probably hasn't
helped matters.

Any tricks of the trade?


Folks, thanks for all your input. I finally got it off after taking
a wooden mallet to the wrench that was turning the puller yesterday
night. I figured if I strip the puller I'd just grind everything
off and go to Octalink or whatever. AFAIK Octalink won't need a
puller.

BTW, that puller where the thread got stripped was not a
Harborfreight deal but an expensive commercial grade version from a
professional mechanic.

And yes, I plan to re-use the cranks if possible. I tightened up
the old Shimano 600 BB. The large chain ring had almost 1/10" play
and now none. Let's see if it has some life in it. If not it'll get
replaced. Shimano offers one kind (UN26 or so) with one nut being
plastic and another with steel but more than 2x the price. Does
anyone know whether the plastic ones hold up for people who mash up
hills with some load on the bike? I mean 8-10k miles, since I don't
expect much more out of a BB anyhow.


Octalink does not work with square taper. The plastic retaining ring
will hold up fine on a UN-whatever, although the original Shimano 600
used an asymmetrical BB, IIRC.


Just got the drive side off, was even worse. This Shimano 600 BB is
symmetrical, 0.938" on either side from end of BB tube. Total langth is
4.650" or 116mm. They only offer UN55 in 115mm but I that's no big
difference. Stamped on the inside part of the crank axle is D-3L CroMo
and 68=W=116.

It's got less than 10k miles on it and the grease pack was fine but that
BB was the most thoroughly shot I had so far. Failure was fairly radid,
from zero play to almost 0.1" on the large chain ring within less than
1000mi. I guess those things do not like these hills much.

I'll have to find something size-compatible.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/
 




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