|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#81
|
|||
|
|||
question about climbing
Roger Merriman wrote:
Joerg wrote: On 2018-08-02 10:19, Roger Merriman wrote: Joerg wrote: On 2018-08-02 07:39, Roger Merriman wrote: Joerg wrote: On 2018-07-27 14:29, Theodore Heise wrote: On Fri, 27 Jul 2018 14:22:43 -0700, Joerg wrote: On 2018-07-27 14:07, jbeattie wrote: On Friday, July 27, 2018 at 12:17:46 PM UTC-7, Joerg wrote: On 2018-07-22 11:33, wrote: [...] ... Any climbing experts in this group. I am certainly not one. To me climbs are just a necessary evil of living in a hilly area. It's always a net 1200ft coming back from the valley with lots of ups and downs in between. Unfortunately it is not always possible to let'er rip on the downhills to gain momentum. You should get a Garmin or ride with someone who has one to see what the real elevation gain is between Sacto and Cameron Park. Saw-tooth climbs count extra, probably 50%. Good idea. This weekend I'll be riding with someone who has one of those fancy GPS-driven "bicycle computers". Maybe it has grade measurement, I'll ask him. I use a Garmin Edge 500, not too pricey (nor big) and includes a barometer. It can display grade on the fly, though it's not always terribly accurate. On sustained climbs, it usually settles in to something that is pretty close to real. https://www.amazon.com/Garmin-Heart-...dp/B010SDBFIE/ Over 300 bucks! In my book that is pricey. I think I'll continue living not knowing what grade I just cycled up. I did 1,200 feet of climbing in about three or so miles... That works out to a little under 8% constant grade--very respectable! It is. Next week I'll have to go up something that probably does this in less than two miles, on dirt with loose gravel. Not looking forward to that section of trail except on the way back when we can bomb down those switchbacks. Good thing is that my MTB has a granny gear. You can use sites such as www.strava.com to see climbs in your area, and average gradients, peak grades aren’t terribly accurate, as you’d expect. How does one find that information about a certain grade without being a member there? Or maybe with being a member. Yesterday I asked a riding buddy who has a smart phone to sign up while he was over for dinner. If that's not possible we'll just have to ride these grades again now that he is signed up. You can search for them with out being a member though does rely on knowing what the segment name for said hill is! One nr? You may be https://www.strava.com/segments/1009727 The app has a fairly good interface for looking at segments, the web site is not very good to be honest! In that it doesn’t show all segments and as you move the map it changes etc. Can't search anything there, it wants me to sign in. Oh well, I'll just ride those grades this weekend with a buddy who signed up for Strava yesterday. Then we should know. I use Strava to plan routes, to follow/mildly guided on my Garmin. I’m fairly heavy but I’m a slow but strong climber so gradients don’t phase me. Same here except I really don't enjoy climbs. At all. I get up there alright but grudgingly. The other downside of being a heavier rider with lots of leg muscle is the frequent pretzeling of spokes and freehubs. For me that usually happens on steep hills. Having bought and loaded some supplies in the valley doesn't help. On the MTB I managed to crunch a freehub within the warranty period and the bike shop owner said that was a first. Not within strava no you’ll need to search using Google/search engine of choice, for example Pikes peak Strava Segments will give you those, such as https://www.strava.com/local/us/colorado-springs/cycling/routes/1521 people don’t always use sensible names, MTBers in particular often use silly names. Or just sign up, and can search your area, costs nothing etc. Roger Merriman With RideWithGPS you can plot the course and it will show you the elevation profile. https://ridewithgps.com -- duane |
Ads |
#82
|
|||
|
|||
question about climbing
Op vrijdag 3 augustus 2018 00:06:00 UTC+2 schreef :
Here's an image Sergio sent from one of those climbs: http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfr...t/sergdol2.jpg Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 Over here it is midnight and, not being able yet to fall asleep, I came back to my desk. So here is a timely addendum to Andrew's. That shot was taken some 25 years ago almost at the summit of the most beautiful road I have ever experienced. It is Passo del Nivolet, in the western Alps between Piemonte and Valle d'Aosta. The summit is at 2612 meters above sea level, inside Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso. After the summit there is a rather long plateau in a beautiful setting. From there on the path becomes a trail ultimately descending to Pont. That time I carried on after the summit and hiked, while carrying the bike on my shoulder, to the village down below. Hoping someone is listening let me strongly recommend him that ride, at least from Ceresole Reale to Nivolet (if not going over all the way). Sergio Pisa I'm listening. That is a serious climb over 26 km: https://www.cyclingcols.com/col/Nivolet Lou |
#83
|
|||
|
|||
question about climbing
On 2018-08-02 16:59, jbeattie wrote:
On Thursday, August 2, 2018 at 11:50:10 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote: On 2018-08-02 11:07, jbeattie wrote: [...] ... He rides on the road, and for the last four years before returning home to PDX, most of his riding involved high-angle climbing in the canyons of the Wasatch riding with the University of Utah team. Until he got his Trek, he was riding my CAAD 9 with wheels that I built for him that are in beautiful shape to this day -- old Ultegra hubs, DT 14/15 3X spokes (32) and el-cheapo DT R460 rims. He did get a spoke hole crack on a predecessor DT R450, but no failures. You are buying junk or doing something wrong if you are ruining freehubs and spokes with your massive leg muscles. It's ok stuff, Mavic rims, stainless spokes, Shimano freehubs, Shimano BB (I buy the most expensive versions for each bike). A few thousand miles into it the BB on the road bike starts clicking again. Hurumph! I no longer care much about such noise and ride it until the play is so bad that the FD isn't wide enough for it. With friction shifters you can let that go quite far. Are the loud "angry bee" freehubs that some riders use better and Shimano-compatible? Octalink BBs suck, although not as bad as ISIS. Both suffer from too-small balls, although you may just need to reinstall with some teflon tape. That often cures snaps and creaks -- but if it is a pitted/deformed ball, you're screwed. I only have Octalink on the MTB. Getting less than 10000mi there is (somewhat) ok. For a bicycle. Because it's exposed to crazy amounts of dust, water animal poop, rock hits and who knows what. On the road bike I have square taper. Until recently the adjustable ones with loose ball cages. It's not the balls or the cups that wore but the spindle surfaces. Of course, with these I could get a 2nd life out of them by mounting everything offset by 180 degrees. 3rd and 4th lives not so much because the pitting was over more than 90 degrees but one could milk another few thousand miles there as well. Those have become unobtanium so I mounted a UN44 cartridge BB, the more pricey version with all metal cups. That disappoints a little in that it already starts clicking. The angry-bee hubs are only better in that they have more points of engagement. 72 points of engagement with CK ring drive! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pM1DJCryVEk Woohoo! My power is delivered .00001 second faster. I guess its a pretty tough design, but far too pricey for me. To me only longevity and robustness counts. Price, too, but I'd be willing to spend $100 if it was lasting seriously longer. Weight does not matter. What I think causes the pawl failures on my freehubs is the wearing out of their bearings and then the pawls don't engage straight anymore. Over just a few thousand miles the freehub develops serious bearing play. Shimano, Formula, brand doesn't seem to matter. That can't be good, especially during rain rides or on dusty trails. Whether other angry bee designs are better in terms of longevity depends on bearing and metal quality. My OE Norco rear hub has a nice buzzing sound, but I would bet that they are dirt cheap Joytech OE hubs with equally cheap cartridge bearings. And yes the angry bees are Shimano compatible unless you accidentally buy a Campagnolo compatible hub. Thanks, good to know. I just hear a lot of the local road bikers having such freehubs. On a downhill you can hear them coming ... GRRRRRRR I need to press in a new bearing cartridge on my son's Vison Metron front wheel, which has a woefully undersized cartridge, IMO. I think they wanted to keep the flanges and hub body small. Anyway, knocking out and pressing in cartridges is more work than greasing some big, burly balls, but I guess the upside is that you never have to worry about wearing out a bearing cup or cone. I leave it to Andrew to opine on the durability issues of the two designs. My Shimano hubs have lasted a long time, and my Dura Ace wheels run really smoothly and have been durable so far. My dad usually didn't do such jobs for me, just once. He said "Son, today I am going to show you how it's done so next time you can do it yourself" :-) -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
#84
|
|||
|
|||
question about climbing
On Friday, August 3, 2018 at 7:55:08 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-08-02 16:59, jbeattie wrote: On Thursday, August 2, 2018 at 11:50:10 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote: On 2018-08-02 11:07, jbeattie wrote: [...] ... He rides on the road, and for the last four years before returning home to PDX, most of his riding involved high-angle climbing in the canyons of the Wasatch riding with the University of Utah team. Until he got his Trek, he was riding my CAAD 9 with wheels that I built for him that are in beautiful shape to this day -- old Ultegra hubs, DT 14/15 3X spokes (32) and el-cheapo DT R460 rims. He did get a spoke hole crack on a predecessor DT R450, but no failures. You are buying junk or doing something wrong if you are ruining freehubs and spokes with your massive leg muscles. It's ok stuff, Mavic rims, stainless spokes, Shimano freehubs, Shimano BB (I buy the most expensive versions for each bike). A few thousand miles into it the BB on the road bike starts clicking again. Hurumph! I no longer care much about such noise and ride it until the play is so bad that the FD isn't wide enough for it. With friction shifters you can let that go quite far. Are the loud "angry bee" freehubs that some riders use better and Shimano-compatible? Octalink BBs suck, although not as bad as ISIS. Both suffer from too-small balls, although you may just need to reinstall with some teflon tape. That often cures snaps and creaks -- but if it is a pitted/deformed ball, you're screwed. I only have Octalink on the MTB. Getting less than 10000mi there is (somewhat) ok. For a bicycle. Because it's exposed to crazy amounts of dust, water animal poop, rock hits and who knows what. On the road bike I have square taper. Until recently the adjustable ones with loose ball cages. It's not the balls or the cups that wore but the spindle surfaces. Of course, with these I could get a 2nd life out of them by mounting everything offset by 180 degrees. 3rd and 4th lives not so much because the pitting was over more than 90 degrees but one could milk another few thousand miles there as well. Those have become unobtanium so I mounted a UN44 cartridge BB, the more pricey version with all metal cups. That disappoints a little in that it already starts clicking. The angry-bee hubs are only better in that they have more points of engagement. 72 points of engagement with CK ring drive! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pM1DJCryVEk Woohoo! My power is delivered .00001 second faster. I guess its a pretty tough design, but far too pricey for me. To me only longevity and robustness counts. Price, too, but I'd be willing to spend $100 if it was lasting seriously longer. Weight does not matter. What I think causes the pawl failures on my freehubs is the wearing out of their bearings and then the pawls don't engage straight anymore. Over just a few thousand miles the freehub develops serious bearing play. Shimano, Formula, brand doesn't seem to matter. That can't be good, especially during rain rides or on dusty trails. Whether other angry bee designs are better in terms of longevity depends on bearing and metal quality. My OE Norco rear hub has a nice buzzing sound, but I would bet that they are dirt cheap Joytech OE hubs with equally cheap cartridge bearings. And yes the angry bees are Shimano compatible unless you accidentally buy a Campagnolo compatible hub. Thanks, good to know. I just hear a lot of the local road bikers having such freehubs. On a downhill you can hear them coming ... GRRRRRRR I need to press in a new bearing cartridge on my son's Vison Metron front wheel, which has a woefully undersized cartridge, IMO. I think they wanted to keep the flanges and hub body small. Anyway, knocking out and pressing in cartridges is more work than greasing some big, burly balls, but I guess the upside is that you never have to worry about wearing out a bearing cup or cone. I leave it to Andrew to opine on the durability issues of the two designs. My Shimano hubs have lasted a long time, and my Dura Ace wheels run really smoothly and have been durable so far. My dad usually didn't do such jobs for me, just once. He said "Son, today I am going to show you how it's done so next time you can do it yourself" :-) I'll make him watch, whether he does future replacements is yet to be seen. He did bicycle assembly at one shop, but he's not a devoted mechanic. He is more clever getting warranty work, though, and doesn't mind taking things to a shop. This might just be a warranty job. We'll see. I did some adjusting, and the bearings are passable, but one cartridge is clearly on its way out. He's already gotten a full wheelset replacement because the first set had a bad angry bee freehub or some other problem. My father gave me some excellent electrical wiring advice, which I follow to this day: "don't stand in a puddle." Cutting the power was optional. He didn't know anything about fixing bikes. -- Jay Beattie. |
#85
|
|||
|
|||
question about climbing
On Friday, August 3, 2018 at 10:55:08 AM UTC-4, Joerg wrote:
Snipped Those have become unobtanium so I mounted a UN44 cartridge BB, the more pricey version with all metal cups. That disappoints a little in that it already starts clicking. Snipped -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ You have the old Shimano 600 on your bike? Is it the Arabesque stuff? You might want to check the taper of the spindle and the crank arms. IIRC Shimano changed it. Cheers |
#86
|
|||
|
|||
question about climbing
On 2018-08-03 10:31, jbeattie wrote:
On Friday, August 3, 2018 at 7:55:08 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote: On 2018-08-02 16:59, jbeattie wrote: On Thursday, August 2, 2018 at 11:50:10 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote: On 2018-08-02 11:07, jbeattie wrote: [...] ... He rides on the road, and for the last four years before returning home to PDX, most of his riding involved high-angle climbing in the canyons of the Wasatch riding with the University of Utah team. Until he got his Trek, he was riding my CAAD 9 with wheels that I built for him that are in beautiful shape to this day -- old Ultegra hubs, DT 14/15 3X spokes (32) and el-cheapo DT R460 rims. He did get a spoke hole crack on a predecessor DT R450, but no failures. You are buying junk or doing something wrong if you are ruining freehubs and spokes with your massive leg muscles. It's ok stuff, Mavic rims, stainless spokes, Shimano freehubs, Shimano BB (I buy the most expensive versions for each bike). A few thousand miles into it the BB on the road bike starts clicking again. Hurumph! I no longer care much about such noise and ride it until the play is so bad that the FD isn't wide enough for it. With friction shifters you can let that go quite far. Are the loud "angry bee" freehubs that some riders use better and Shimano-compatible? Octalink BBs suck, although not as bad as ISIS. Both suffer from too-small balls, although you may just need to reinstall with some teflon tape. That often cures snaps and creaks -- but if it is a pitted/deformed ball, you're screwed. I only have Octalink on the MTB. Getting less than 10000mi there is (somewhat) ok. For a bicycle. Because it's exposed to crazy amounts of dust, water animal poop, rock hits and who knows what. On the road bike I have square taper. Until recently the adjustable ones with loose ball cages. It's not the balls or the cups that wore but the spindle surfaces. Of course, with these I could get a 2nd life out of them by mounting everything offset by 180 degrees. 3rd and 4th lives not so much because the pitting was over more than 90 degrees but one could milk another few thousand miles there as well. Those have become unobtanium so I mounted a UN44 cartridge BB, the more pricey version with all metal cups. That disappoints a little in that it already starts clicking. The angry-bee hubs are only better in that they have more points of engagement. 72 points of engagement with CK ring drive! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pM1DJCryVEk Woohoo! My power is delivered .00001 second faster. I guess its a pretty tough design, but far too pricey for me. To me only longevity and robustness counts. Price, too, but I'd be willing to spend $100 if it was lasting seriously longer. Weight does not matter. What I think causes the pawl failures on my freehubs is the wearing out of their bearings and then the pawls don't engage straight anymore. Over just a few thousand miles the freehub develops serious bearing play. Shimano, Formula, brand doesn't seem to matter. That can't be good, especially during rain rides or on dusty trails. Whether other angry bee designs are better in terms of longevity depends on bearing and metal quality. My OE Norco rear hub has a nice buzzing sound, but I would bet that they are dirt cheap Joytech OE hubs with equally cheap cartridge bearings. And yes the angry bees are Shimano compatible unless you accidentally buy a Campagnolo compatible hub. Thanks, good to know. I just hear a lot of the local road bikers having such freehubs. On a downhill you can hear them coming ... GRRRRRRR I need to press in a new bearing cartridge on my son's Vison Metron front wheel, which has a woefully undersized cartridge, IMO. I think they wanted to keep the flanges and hub body small. Anyway, knocking out and pressing in cartridges is more work than greasing some big, burly balls, but I guess the upside is that you never have to worry about wearing out a bearing cup or cone. I leave it to Andrew to opine on the durability issues of the two designs. My Shimano hubs have lasted a long time, and my Dura Ace wheels run really smoothly and have been durable so far. My dad usually didn't do such jobs for me, just once. He said "Son, today I am going to show you how it's done so next time you can do it yourself" :-) I'll make him watch, whether he does future replacements is yet to be seen. He did bicycle assembly at one shop, but he's not a devoted mechanic. He is more clever getting warranty work, though, ... .... and in getting his dad to do the work. In the Netherlands we had a word for that but it isn't a very nice one :-) ... and doesn't mind taking things to a shop. This might just be a warranty job. We'll see. I did some adjusting, and the bearings are passable, but one cartridge is clearly on its way out. He's already gotten a full wheelset replacement because the first set had a bad angry bee freehub or some other problem. My father gave me some excellent electrical wiring advice, which I follow to this day: "don't stand in a puddle." Cutting the power was optional. He didn't know anything about fixing bikes. My first boss used to be an electrician before he got his EE degree. He isn't very tall and his solution for live work on circuits was to stand onto an inverted bucket. If he accidentally touched more than one metal part and they were at different potential he'd (hopefully) get the shakes and fall off the bucket. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
#87
|
|||
|
|||
question about climbing
On 2018-08-03 10:36, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Friday, August 3, 2018 at 10:55:08 AM UTC-4, Joerg wrote: Snipped Those have become unobtanium so I mounted a UN44 cartridge BB, the more pricey version with all metal cups. That disappoints a little in that it already starts clicking. Snipped -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ You have the old Shimano 600 on your bike? Is it the Arabesque stuff? You might want to check the taper of the spindle and the crank arms. IIRC Shimano changed it. It's 600-EX, not Arabesque. Before buying that new UN44 BB I spent some time figuring out that I got one with the correct taper. Turns out mine has standard JIS taper. It fit like a glove and I didn't even have to adjust the front derailer. A dealer actually had the wrong taper listed for the UN44 BB's they offered. I wrote an email to alert them but never heard back. That would be a bummer if someone installed it only to find out it won't fit the cranks. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
rec.mtn.climbing ? | kolldata | Techniques | 2 | June 7th 10 02:56 PM |
Climbing | Dan O | Techniques | 76 | September 27th 08 05:41 AM |
climbing | Zebee Johnstone | Australia | 7 | July 3rd 06 09:26 PM |
Climbing OTB | p e t e f a g e r l i n | Mountain Biking | 26 | May 9th 06 03:56 PM |
Question about hill climbing technique | Walrus | Australia | 14 | July 17th 04 12:37 PM |