wheel rebuilding question

I've had a Mavic T138 rear 36-spoke wheel (Dura-ace hub) for about 5 years,
but the spoke holes are starting to crack and it's time for a new rim. I
want to use the technique of taping the new rim next to the old one and
moving the spokes over, because the spokes seem OK and I want to save some
money. My question is: Which of today's rims will work with the same size
spokes as the T138? Do they still make T138's? If not, is there a comparable
rim out there which uses the same sized spokes? Thanks - Gary

"Gary Smiley" wrote:

I've had a Mavic T138 rear 36-spoke wheel (Dura-ace hub) for about
5 years, but the spoke holes are starting to crack and it's time for a
new rim. I want to use the technique of taping the new rim next to
the old one and moving the spokes over, because the spokes seem
OK and I want to save some money. My question is: Which of today's
rims will work with the same size spokes as the T138? Do they still
make T138's? If not, is there a comparable rim out there which uses
the same sized spokes?

If the cracking hasn't put you off the T138, they're listed at the Harris
Cyclery site:

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/rims.html#622

For alternatives, download Spocalc from:

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/rinard/spocalc.htm

and compare the ERD column. You should be able to get away with a range of
a few millimetres either side of your current rim.

James Thomson

"Gary Smiley" wrote:

I've had a Mavic T138 rear 36-spoke wheel (Dura-ace hub) for about
5 years, but the spoke holes are starting to crack and it's time for a
new rim. I want to use the technique of taping the new rim next to
the old one and moving the spokes over, because the spokes seem
OK and I want to save some money. My question is: Which of today's
rims will work with the same size spokes as the T138? Do they still
make T138's? If not, is there a comparable rim out there which uses
the same sized spokes?

If the cracking hasn't put you off the T138, they're listed at the Harris
Cyclery site:

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/rims.html#622

For alternatives, download Spocalc from:

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/rinard/spocalc.htm

and compare the ERD column. You should be able to get away with a range of
a few millimetres either side of your current rim.

James Thomson

"Gary Smiley" wrote in message
newsTiNc.194849$XM6.39888@attbi_s53...
I've had a Mavic T138 rear 36-spoke wheel (Dura-ace hub) for about 5 years,
but the spoke holes are starting to crack and it's time for a new rim. I
want to use the technique of taping the new rim next to the old one and
moving the spokes over, because the spokes seem OK and I want to save some
money. My question is: Which of today's rims will work with the same size
spokes as the T138? Do they still make T138's? If not, is there a comparable
rim out there which uses the same sized spokes? Thanks - Gary

Another rim database:
http://www.fa-technik.adfc.de/Kompon.../Felge622.html

I think the T217 or T219 (whatever the current one is) is a same size rim.
It's an expensive rim ~$60, but pretty nice for heavy duty applications.

"Gary Smiley" wrote in message
newsTiNc.194849$XM6.39888@attbi_s53...
I've had a Mavic T138 rear 36-spoke wheel (Dura-ace hub) for about 5 years,
but the spoke holes are starting to crack and it's time for a new rim. I
want to use the technique of taping the new rim next to the old one and
moving the spokes over, because the spokes seem OK and I want to save some
money. My question is: Which of today's rims will work with the same size
spokes as the T138? Do they still make T138's? If not, is there a comparable
rim out there which uses the same sized spokes? Thanks - Gary

Another rim database:
http://www.fa-technik.adfc.de/Kompon.../Felge622.html

I think the T217 or T219 (whatever the current one is) is a same size rim.
It's an expensive rim ~$60, but pretty nice for heavy duty applications.

Sun Rhyno is a drop in replacement. Quite affordable too. Just keep
the lacing pattern the same, use NEW nipples and buy or make a nipple
driver. If you buy a spare tip for your power screwdriver, you can
grind it to make your own nipple driver...a real time saver.


--
Weisse Luft

Sun Rhyno is a drop in replacement. Quite affordable too. Just keep
the lacing pattern the same, use NEW nipples and buy or make a nipple
driver. If you buy a spare tip for your power screwdriver, you can
grind it to make your own nipple driver...a real time saver.


--
Weisse Luft

On Wed, 28 Jul 2004 05:41:17 +1000, Weisse Luft
wrote:


Sun Rhyno is a drop in replacement. Quite affordable too. Just keep
the lacing pattern the same, use NEW nipples and buy or make a nipple
driver. If you buy a spare tip for your power screwdriver, you can
grind it to make your own nipple driver...a real time saver.

Why do you need to use new nipples? If the spoke threads are reusable
the nipples should be reusable as well.

On Wed, 28 Jul 2004 05:41:17 +1000, Weisse Luft
wrote:


Sun Rhyno is a drop in replacement. Quite affordable too. Just keep
the lacing pattern the same, use NEW nipples and buy or make a nipple
driver. If you buy a spare tip for your power screwdriver, you can
grind it to make your own nipple driver...a real time saver.

Why do you need to use new nipples? If the spoke threads are reusable
the nipples should be reusable as well.

Glad you asked. Nipples, be they brass or aluminum, are anodic compared
to stainless steel spokes. In layman terms, this means they
preferentially corrode when in contact with stainless steel.

Furthermore, they are softer than the spokes and get some abuse from
wrenching. New rims need new nipples. If you go brass (plated, of
course), the cost is insignificant compared to the trouble with the old
ones.


--
Weisse Luft