Ritchey rims and tight tires?

I have a set of 90s Ritchey wheels I can't squeeze a tire onto without
warm aqua & sapone, several tire levers, a flat spot, and a hernia.

Any recs for road tires with larger ERTROs? I've tried my Michelins
and whatnot, which fit fine on Mavic and other rims.

Thanks!
Scott

Scott Gordo wrote:
I have a set of 90s Ritchey wheels I can't squeeze a tire onto without
warm aqua & sapone, several tire levers, a flat spot, and a hernia.

Any recs for road tires with larger ERTROs? I've tried my Michelins
and whatnot, which fit fine on Mavic and other rims.

Although we haven't had that issue with Ritchey products,
it's possible. Most 1990s Ritchey rims were made by Araya
which are dead on to spec.

Ensure that you have a thin fabric or poly rim liner and
only one of them. A Ritchey rim liner (or Torelli or
similar) would be great. Also ensure the rim liner is the
appropriate width, fully covering the holes while not
occluding the bead seat area.


--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On Apr 23, 1:46*pm, AMuzi wrote:
Scott Gordo wrote:
I have a set of 90s Ritchey wheels I can't squeeze a tire onto without
warm aqua & sapone, several tire levers, a flat spot, and a hernia.

Any recs for road tires with larger ERTROs? I've tried my Michelins
and whatnot, which fit fine on Mavic and other rims.

Although we haven't had that issue with Ritchey products,
it's possible. Most 1990s Ritchey rims were made by Araya
which are dead on to spec.

Ensure that you have a thin fabric or poly rim liner and
only one of them. A Ritchey rim liner (or Torelli or
similar) would be great. Also ensure the rim liner is the
appropriate width, fully covering the holes while not
occluding the bead seat area.

--
Andrew Muzi
* www.yellowjersey.org/
* Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Thanks Andrew, good idea.

Rim liner is the one the wheels came with, IIRC yellow with the
repeating Ritchey logo. Sits fine in the rim bed, tight, neither
revealing spoke holes nor significant extra material width-wise. No
signs of shifting....

I suspect some French metric standard versus a Japanese metric
standard battle

I should probably add that I've tried mounting 23s and I think 25s.

On Apr 23, 2:42*pm, Scott Gordo wrote:
On Apr 23, 1:46*pm, AMuzi wrote:









Scott Gordo wrote:
I have a set of 90s Ritchey wheels I can't squeeze a tire onto without
warm aqua & sapone, several tire levers, a flat spot, and a hernia.

Any recs for road tires with larger ERTROs? I've tried my Michelins
and whatnot, which fit fine on Mavic and other rims.

Although we haven't had that issue with Ritchey products,
it's possible. Most 1990s Ritchey rims were made by Araya
which are dead on to spec.

Ensure that you have a thin fabric or poly rim liner and
only one of them. A Ritchey rim liner (or Torelli or
similar) would be great. Also ensure the rim liner is the
appropriate width, fully covering the holes while not
occluding the bead seat area.

--
Andrew Muzi
* www.yellowjersey.org/
* Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Thanks Andrew, good idea.

Rim liner is the one the wheels came with, IIRC yellow with the
repeating Ritchey logo. Sits fine in the rim bed, tight, neither
revealing spoke holes nor significant extra material width-wise. No
signs of shifting....

I suspect some French metric standard versus a Japanese metric
standard battle

I should probably add that I've tried mounting 23s and I think 25s.

For research purposes, anybody know of a brand of wheels/rims/tires
with a reputation for being on the larger side of spec?

On Mon, 23 Apr 2012 12:26:01 -0700, Scott Gordo wrote:

snip


For research purposes, anybody know of a brand of wheels/rims/tires with
a reputation for being on the larger side of spec?

I've found generally (but not always) that wire beaded tires were easier
to mount than kevlar beaded (foldable) tires.

There are also a couple of technique related tricks. I'll put 1 bead
completely on the rim, then a partially inflated tube on followed by
trying to put the other bead on. The tube inflation is to avoid pinching
the tube. I'll also make sure the tube is completely within the rim
flanges before starting with the other bead. I'll start at the valve and
work both sides around to the rim joint.

The first trick is to force the already mounted beads to the center of
the rim. The rim center is lower than near the flange. This gives the
unmounted bead a couple of mm's more height to move over the rim flange.

The second trick is to progressively let more air out of the tube as I
approach the rim joint. This also frees up a couple of mm's of the
unmounted bead.

For stubborn tires, I'll take out my Var # 425 tire lever and be done
with it.

http://sheldonbrown.com/var/pages/var0051.html

Stephen Bauman

On Apr 23, 7:42*pm, Scott Gordo wrote:
On Apr 23, 1:46*pm, AMuzi wrote:









Scott Gordo wrote:
I have a set of 90s Ritchey wheels I can't squeeze a tire onto without
warm aqua & sapone, several tire levers, a flat spot, and a hernia.

Any recs for road tires with larger ERTROs? I've tried my Michelins
and whatnot, which fit fine on Mavic and other rims.

Although we haven't had that issue with Ritchey products,
it's possible. Most 1990s Ritchey rims were made by Araya
which are dead on to spec.

Ensure that you have a thin fabric or poly rim liner and
only one of them. A Ritchey rim liner (or Torelli or
similar) would be great. Also ensure the rim liner is the
appropriate width, fully covering the holes while not
occluding the bead seat area.

--
Andrew Muzi
* www.yellowjersey.org/
* Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Thanks Andrew, good idea.

Rim liner is the one the wheels came with, IIRC yellow with the
repeating Ritchey logo. Sits fine in the rim bed, tight, neither
revealing spoke holes nor significant extra material width-wise. No
signs of shifting....

Plastic rim tapes are particularly prone to grabbing the bead. Clean
everything up with dish-washing detergent and when dry dust everything
with French-chalk.
You should then be able to tension the bead with a pait of levers and
get some more bead to play with after easing the tyre around.

If you still have trouble, swap the rim-tape for Velox rim-tape. Cut
the tape to length so that there is no overlap and dust it with
chalk.

I had trouble fitting Specialized Turbo tyres to Mixte rims which had
Michelin's yellow hard plastic rim tape. The tape did not snug down
in the centre when tyre fitting and eventually split after running
tyres at 120psi. I swapped to Jantex and had no further problems with
any tyre once I'd trimmed the tape to length and dusted it. Even
roadside puncture repairs and tyre swaps were a doddle despite
supposedly difficult combinations.


I suspect some French metric standard versus a Japanese metric
standard battle

I should probably add that I've tried mounting 23s and I think 25s.

Scott Gordo wrote:

For research purposes, anybody know of a brand of wheels/rims/tires
with a reputation for being on the larger side of spec?


Yes, I have a pair of Torelli Master rims from a few years ago that
require a lot of effort when mounting any tire. Otherwise they are
great rims. Thin plastic rim strips and positive thinking help.

Art Harris

On Apr 25, 2:13*pm, thirty-six wrote:
On Apr 23, 7:42*pm, Scott Gordo wrote:









On Apr 23, 1:46*pm, AMuzi wrote:

Scott Gordo wrote:
I have a set of 90s Ritchey wheels I can't squeeze a tire onto without
warm aqua & sapone, several tire levers, a flat spot, and a hernia.

Any recs for road tires with larger ERTROs? I've tried my Michelins
and whatnot, which fit fine on Mavic and other rims.

Although we haven't had that issue with Ritchey products,
it's possible. Most 1990s Ritchey rims were made by Araya
which are dead on to spec.

Ensure that you have a thin fabric or poly rim liner and
only one of them. A Ritchey rim liner (or Torelli or
similar) would be great. Also ensure the rim liner is the
appropriate width, fully covering the holes while not
occluding the bead seat area.

--
Andrew Muzi
* www.yellowjersey.org/
* Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Thanks Andrew, good idea.

Rim liner is the one the wheels came with, IIRC yellow with the
repeating Ritchey logo. Sits fine in the rim bed, tight, neither
revealing spoke holes nor significant extra material width-wise. No
signs of shifting....

Plastic rim tapes are particularly prone to grabbing the bead. *Clean
everything up with dish-washing detergent and when dry dust everything
with French-chalk.
You should then be able to tension the bead with a pait of levers and
get some more bead to play with after easing the tyre around.

If you still have trouble, swap the rim-tape for Velox rim-tape. *Cut
the tape to length so that there is no overlap and dust it with
chalk.

I had trouble fitting Specialized Turbo tyres to Mixte rims which had
Michelin's yellow hard plastic rim tape. *The tape did not snug down
in the centre when tyre fitting and eventually split after running
tyres at 120psi. *I swapped to Jantex and had no further problems with
any tyre once I'd trimmed the tape to length and dusted it. *Even
roadside puncture repairs and tyre swaps were a doddle despite
supposedly difficult combinations.


.... with bare hands as the only tools.

Art Harris wrote:

*Scott Gordo wrote:

For research purposes, anybody know of a brand of wheels/rims/tires
with a reputation for being on the larger side of spec?

Yes, I have a pair of Torelli Master rims from a few years ago that
require a lot of effort when mounting any tire. Otherwise they are
great rims.

Those are evil rims. A Torelli Master is the only rim I ever replaced
because of its tire fit. There were some Matrix rims that routinely
made me angry, but not to the point of rebuilding wheels because of
it.

Chalo

On 04/25/2012 11:05 AM, thirty-six wrote:

I had trouble fitting Specialized Turbo tyres to Mixte rims which had
Michelin's yellow hard plastic rim tape. The tape did not snug down
in the centre when tyre fitting and eventually split after running
tyres at 120psi. I swapped to Jantex and had no further problems with
any tyre once I'd trimmed the tape to length and dusted it. Even
roadside puncture repairs and tyre swaps were a doddle despite
supposedly difficult combinations.


... with bare hands as the only tools.

Specialized Turbos were a bitch to get on when they were new. I've heard
that after the initial install, it's easier but I haven't (knock on
wood) had to remove them since.