Inner tube recommendation

On Monday, 23 July 2012 22:48:54 UTC+1, SMS wrote:
On 7/23/2012 11:17 AM, Joe Riel wrote:

> Plus, usage changes. That's why I have a harder time finding the presta
> tubes with short stems; there are a lot of rims now that require longer
> stems. I did buy a cheap tire and gloves while there; I'm sure the
> profit from that will hold 'em over for a few months until my next
> purchase...of tube patches.

Five or six SKUs cover the vast majority of tube sales, and these aren't
items that go out of style. It's not like selling shoes.

If you live near a Performance store it's moot anyway since you can buy
tubes cheaply during one of their frequent sales. But I think that many
people would rather spend the money at an independently owned shop as
long as prices are not wildly different.

There's a problem with the LBS mentality that you can see by reading
trade publications. They want as few vendors as possible because it's
easier just to place a couple of orders a week to QBP and JB than to
deal with more wholesalers. What this means that they have less
selection of products and it also means that setting their prices to
Keystone margins means that their prices on many items end up being so
high that it drives customers away because QBP and JB are no bargain for
many items. Once a customer is used to ordering online, they don't come
back to the shop. If they're buying a few tubes they add on some other
stuff to get to an order amount for free shipping or to get some other
discount.

BTW, long stem Presta tubes work just fine with shallow rims. It may not
look as nice as short stems, but I don't see any downside other than a
tiny bit of extra weight.

downside is being unable to steady the pump by holding on to the tyre, so then the valve stem gets unecessarily stressed. Bracing the forearm against the knee is one option but it's not ideal.

On Monday, July 23, 2012 6:19:45 PM UTC-5, thirty-six wrote:


downside is being unable to steady the pump by holding on to the tyre, so then the valve stem gets unecessarily stressed. Bracing the forearm against the knee is one option but it's not ideal.

That's easily solved by pumping the tire with wheel off the bike. Bracing is done at the pump and the wheel follows with little stress to the valve.

writes:

On Monday, July 23, 2012 6:19:45 PM UTC-5, thirty-six wrote:


downside is being unable to steady the pump by holding on to the tyre, so then the valve stem gets unecessarily stressed. Bracing the forearm against the knee is one option but it's not ideal.

That's easily solved by pumping the tire with wheel off the bike.
Bracing is done at the pump and the wheel follows with little stress
to the valve.

That's what I've always done. Since the wheel's off to fix the flat,
might as well pump it up before installing it. Besides, if something
goes wrong with the repair, why remove/install the wheel twice? Does
anyone inflate tires on the bike with a frame pump? I use a floor pump
at home. On-the-bike inflating might be useful to limp home with a slow
leak, but I generally stop and fix those.

I occasionally have an issue with the Moulton. With dual-pivot brakes
there really isn't enough room to get the tire past the brake pads when
fully inflated, despite opening the calipers. I manage, with a bit of
swearing. Put single pivots on it for a while to avoid the hassle, but
lately have the dual pivots back-on.

--
Joe Riel

The big reason I love old single pivot brakes (it's all I use) ... that and the fact that they'll follow a whacked rim without braking and allow you to finish a ride (or get home anyway). I wish someone would bring them back (high quality ones). Has anyone had a good look at the new SRAM RED brakes? They claim to be single pivot but have some new mechanical design.

On Tuesday, July 24, 2012 12:34:35 PM UTC-5, JoeRiel wrote:
writes:

> On Monday, July 23, 2012 6:19:45 PM UTC-5, thirty-six wrote:
>
>>
>> downside is being unable to steady the pump by holding on to the tyre, so then the valve stem gets unecessarily stressed. Bracing the forearm against the knee is one option but it's not ideal.
>
> That's easily solved by pumping the tire with wheel off the bike..
> Bracing is done at the pump and the wheel follows with little stress
> to the valve.

That's what I've always done. Since the wheel's off to fix the flat,
might as well pump it up before installing it. Besides, if something
goes wrong with the repair, why remove/install the wheel twice? Does
anyone inflate tires on the bike with a frame pump? I use a floor pump
at home. On-the-bike inflating might be useful to limp home with a slow
leak, but I generally stop and fix those.

I occasionally have an issue with the Moulton. With dual-pivot brakes
there really isn't enough room to get the tire past the brake pads when
fully inflated, despite opening the calipers. I manage, with a bit of
swearing. Put single pivots on it for a while to avoid the hassle, but
lately have the dual pivots back-on.

--
Joe Riel

writes:

The big reason I love old single pivot brakes (it's all I use)
... that and the fact that they'll follow a whacked rim without
braking and allow you to finish a ride (or get home anyway). I wish
someone would bring them back (high quality ones). Has anyone had a
good look at the new SRAM RED brakes? They claim to be single pivot
but have some new mechanical design.

Could you explain this concept of "follow a whacked rim"? Do you really
just mean, because it opens wider, a single-pivot will be less likely to
rub while riding with a bent rim? I haven't noticed a problem with
using a dual-pivot rim with a broken spoke. The clearance is less, so
it is more likely to rub, but the bike stops fine.


On Tuesday, July 24, 2012 12:34:35 PM UTC-5, JoeRiel wrote:
writes:

> On Monday, July 23, 2012 6:19:45 PM UTC-5, thirty-six wrote:
>
>>
>> downside is being unable to steady the pump by holding on to the tyre, so then the valve stem gets unecessarily stressed. Bracing the forearm against the knee is one option but it's not ideal.
>
> That's easily solved by pumping the tire with wheel off the bike.
> Bracing is done at the pump and the wheel follows with little stress
> to the valve.

That's what I've always done. Since the wheel's off to fix the flat,
might as well pump it up before installing it. Besides, if something
goes wrong with the repair, why remove/install the wheel twice? Does
anyone inflate tires on the bike with a frame pump? I use a floor pump
at home. On-the-bike inflating might be useful to limp home with a slow
leak, but I generally stop and fix those.

I occasionally have an issue with the Moulton. With dual-pivot brakes
there really isn't enough room to get the tire past the brake pads when
fully inflated, despite opening the calipers. I manage, with a bit of
swearing. Put single pivots on it for a while to avoid the hassle, but
lately have the dual pivots back-on.

--
Joe Riel


--
Joe Riel

On Tuesday, July 24, 2012 1:39:36 PM UTC-5, JoeRiel wrote:
writes:

> The big reason I love old single pivot brakes (it's all I use)
> ... that and the fact that they'll follow a whacked rim without
> braking and allow you to finish a ride (or get home anyway). I wish
> someone would bring them back (high quality ones). Has anyone had a
> good look at the new SRAM RED brakes? They claim to be single pivot
> but have some new mechanical design.

Could you explain this concept of "follow a whacked rim"? Do you really
just mean, because it opens wider, a single-pivot will be less likely to
rub while riding with a bent rim? I haven't noticed a problem with
using a dual-pivot rim with a broken spoke. The clearance is less, so
it is more likely to rub, but the bike stops fine.


Not that I've had it happen much but, just like cantilevers, the single pivot brake will track a rim with very little resistance whereas a dual pivot design with its firmly fixed arm/pad position, will result in serious braking when the rim whacks it. Light rubbing is one thing. Braking is another..

But, as I said, the big advantage for me is that I can get quality braking (two-fingered stoppie type braking) with vintage single pivot brakes/modern pads AND run fat tires AND be able to pull the wheel out without even opening the QR (this with 28mm tires). I could run 32mm tires on my bike and get tires out easily.

SMS wrote:

I.e. Pricepoint offers 18-25 and 28-35 only, and neither is ideal, while
Kenda offers 18-23, 20-25, 23-25, 23-28, 28-32, 35-43.


23-28 would be perfect for me, but I haven't seen them anywhere. I'd also prefer a medium stem length of about 40mm (as Performance provides).

Art Harris

buy CO2. when CO2 is gone use the hand pump. Best partially inflate clearing pads then finish mounted. Flipping hand pumps are steam.

go pro...


http://www.nrsweb.com/shop/product_list.asp?deptid=979

this swiss watch bs has limits....

On Tuesday, July 24, 2012 1:26:08 PM UTC-7, Art Harris wrote:
SMS wrote:
>
> I.e. Pricepoint offers 18-25 and 28-35 only, and neither is ideal, while
> Kenda offers 18-23, 20-25, 23-25, 23-28, 28-32, 35-43.
>

23-28 would be perfect for me, but I haven't seen them anywhere. I'd also prefer a medium stem length of about 40mm (as Performance provides).

Art Harris

yawl know biketiresunlimited or something as that ?

On Tuesday, 24 July 2012 18:17:46 UTC+1, (unknown) wrote:
On Monday, July 23, 2012 6:19:45 PM UTC-5, thirty-six wrote:

>
> downside is being unable to steady the pump by holding on to the tyre, so then the valve stem gets unecessarily stressed. Bracing the forearm against the knee is one option but it's not ideal.

That's easily solved by pumping the tire with wheel off the bike. Bracing is done at the pump and the wheel follows with little stress to the valve.

That's unecessary work, takes away my time and could lead to mistakes on re-installation of the wheel.