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#101
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Coaster Brake Failure
On 3/3/19 3:24 AM, Radey Shouman wrote:
Ralph Barone writes: snip If you ever decide to fix it in a similarly cheap, but more aesthetically pleasing fashion, cut a strip out of an old inner tube, then wrap it around the chainstay and super glue it to itself on the inside of the chainstay. Or just buy a roll of helicopter tape, enough for several dozen bikes. Every day's a learning day! At first I thought it was used to tape helicopters together, which tells you everything you need to know about what I think of the infernal machines, but no, easily available and will be in my garage in a few days :-) Cheers! https://www.selfadhesive.co.uk/shop-...pter-tape.html |
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#102
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Coaster Brake Failure
On Saturday, March 2, 2019 at 6:24:14 PM UTC-8, Radey Shouman wrote:
Ralph Barone writes: Joerg wrote: On 2019-03-02 08:28, Mark J. wrote: On 3/2/2019 8:04 AM, Joerg wrote: On 2019-02-28 18:31, AMuzi wrote: On 2/28/2019 6:49 PM, Joerg wrote: On 2019-02-27 14:47, John B. Slocomb wrote: On Wed, 27 Feb 2019 08:09:04 -0800, Joerg wrote: On 2019-02-25 11:42, Tosspot wrote: On 2/25/19 5:06 PM, Joerg wrote: On 2019-02-25 07:29, Ralph Barone wrote: AMuzi wrote: https://www.bicycleretailer.com/reca...nd-aftermarket Mysterious. How the hell did that happen in a design 100+ years old? They must have improved it. In German there is the inofficial word "verschlimmbessern". It sums up the action of "Here we have a working design but let's optimize it anyhow" and then it all goes to pots. A very common scenario in software design. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gp_D8r-2hwk Sometimes those things happen for reasons Tom mentioned. People using library modules that others have written, assuming everything in those we be just fine. And then things aren't. This is one of the reasons why I prefer gear with the least amount of electronics and software in there and, for example, will never be caught with electronic shifters on a bicycle. True, but then people also have had the metal shift cables break and been restricted to a single gear. It appears that everything is subject to failure :-) That is very rare, more so than a derailer ripped away by a rock. Main thing is, with batteries the number of available shifts per charge is finite. I was told that front shifts are especially hard on the battery and on mountainous singletrack that's used a lot. If I had north of $1k burning in my pocket I'd rather spend that on a Rohloff. That one allows shifts across the complete gear range at very low or zero speed which is very useful in MTB riding. To heck with the extra weight. Old fashioned junk. Try to keep up: https://bikerumor.com/2019/02/24/rot...pset-at-1785g/ 13-speed, yikes. When that has run it's course they'll offer 14-speed. When will we have CVT for bicycles? I recently installed a longer rear derailer, a hanger extender and a 11-40T cassette. I hacked it to fit the old 6-speed road bike, now 7-speed. For a guy getting older and having moved into hill country that makes a major difference. The only downside with such a large cassette for me is when I stop pedaling too suddenly or pedal backwards a little to level the cranks for a water crossing. Then the chain slaps violently and hits the right chainstay. Happens only when on the smaller sprockets, due to the flywheel effect. So now there is a piece of slit pool sweep hose on top of that as "sacrificial material". They make modern rear derailleurs with a "clutch" in/on the jockey pulley to avoid just this chain-slap problem. Example: https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/produ...-RX800-GS.html The described "on-off switch" is for the clutch. Interesting! However, that derailer retails north of $100. My solution with a $20 derailer and a chunk of plastic hose with three cable ties leaves $80 to spend at bicycle gas stations, a.k.a. brewpubs :-) An upside is that such kludges along with mud caked onto the frame and a hose clamp fix on the steerer greatly reduce the chance of this bike being stolen while in a city. http://www.analogconsultants.com/ng/bike/Hoseclamp.JPG If you ever decide to fix it in a similarly cheap, but more aesthetically pleasing fashion, cut a strip out of an old inner tube, then wrap it around the chainstay and super glue it to itself on the inside of the chainstay. Or just buy a roll of helicopter tape, enough for several dozen bikes. -- While that keeps chain grease off of the stay it doesn't prevent it from being slapped hard enough to damage the paint or even dent the stay. When you peel the take off the paint comes with it. The best idea if you can call it that is to have the proper chain length and gear selections so that you don't have chain slap. Also you can learn to shift only one gear at a time so that you get less chain length variation and almost no chain slap at all. Not that I'm not guilty of shifting at the last second and going down 5 gears. |
#104
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Coaster Brake Failure
Am 01.03.2019 um 21:38 schrieb Ralph Barone:
"Internally geared bottom bracket"? You mean, like a Schlumpf drive? http://www.schlumpfdrive.com/index.php/home-en.html I wonder what would happen if you coupled that with the 13 rear cogs system mentioned upthread? Bah. Go big or go home. SRAM makes a three speed IGH that will also accept a 9 speed cassette. Use that on the back and a three speed front derailleur with a Schlumpf drive up front. Then add computer control because you'll never figure out which of the four shift mechanisms you should be using at any given time. Actually, figuring that out (on a recumbent trike minus the Schlumpf) was not that difficult as long as you take into account that the three-speed is significantly more efficient in the direct drive-2 setting. You use the 3x9 derailleur like on a normal bike. You use the IGH for two purposes: 1) to extend the gearing on extreme uphill and extreme downhill 2) you can switch IGH to low for re-start after an "emergency stop" (red light, yield to unseen car) in a high gear Rolf |
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