I greased my crank and now it's split!

On Monday, September 15, 1997 at 3:00:00 AM UTC-4, Jobst Brandt wrote:
Sam Bond writes:

Are you an expert then? What evidence can you produce to say it is
"nonsense"? Spend some time with a micrometer and torque gauge -
produce the numbers and with your extensive knowledge of
lubrication. the strength of materials, their metalurgy and the
design of taper fitted cranks show whow it is "nonsense" .

whow, I didn't even know how to spell metallurgist and now I are one.

How about 30 years of installing cranks with grease and nary a split
crank, just cranks that broke off at the pedal eye, the neck, and the
spider.

Jobst Brandt

I have had this problem with my cranks slipping under heavy load since I was a child 60 years ago. I have two mountain bikes, and both of them irritated me with this slip. So I overtorqued the crank bolts on one and used red Loktite on the other. The overtorqued crankpin still slips. The Loctited one does not. So I'm headed to an auto parts store for some more red Loktite.

And by the way, the young mechanic where I took the slipping bike did not know what I was talking about. He rode the bike and found the slip, but did not understand where it was coming from. I'll pick it up Monday and fix it myself. I don't know why I ever took the damn thing out there to the bicycle shop to begin with.

On Sun, 26 Feb 2017 10:13:57 -0800 (PST), Ashevilliot
wrote:

On Monday, September 15, 1997 at 3:00:00 AM UTC-4, Jobst Brandt wrote:
Sam Bond writes:

Are you an expert then? What evidence can you produce to say it is
"nonsense"? Spend some time with a micrometer and torque gauge -
produce the numbers and with your extensive knowledge of
lubrication. the strength of materials, their metalurgy and the
design of taper fitted cranks show whow it is "nonsense" .

whow, I didn't even know how to spell metallurgist and now I are one.

How about 30 years of installing cranks with grease and nary a split
crank, just cranks that broke off at the pedal eye, the neck, and the
spider.

Jobst Brandt

I have had this problem with my cranks slipping under heavy load since I was a child 60 years ago. I have two mountain bikes, and both of them irritated me with this slip. So I overtorqued the crank bolts on one and used red Loktite on the other. The overtorqued crankpin still slips. The Loctited one does not. So I'm headed to an auto parts store for some more red Loktite.

And by the way, the young mechanic where I took the slipping bike did not know what I was talking about. He rode the bike and found the slip, but did not understand where it was coming from. I'll pick it up Monday and fix it myself. I don't know why I ever took the damn thing out there to the bicycle shop to begin with.


If you actually have a cottered crank and are not just replying to a
20 year old post, than get a cotter clamp, or maybe the call it a
cotter press.
See
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/cotters.html
and
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JIIjID_KdiY

Or maybe give A. Muzi a call, he probably has them in stock :-)
--
Cheers,

John B.

On 2/26/2017 8:30 PM, John B. wrote:
On Sun, 26 Feb 2017 10:13:57 -0800 (PST), Ashevilliot
wrote:

On Monday, September 15, 1997 at 3:00:00 AM UTC-4, Jobst Brandt wrote:
Sam Bond writes:

Are you an expert then? What evidence can you produce to say it is
"nonsense"? Spend some time with a micrometer and torque gauge -
produce the numbers and with your extensive knowledge of
lubrication. the strength of materials, their metalurgy and the
design of taper fitted cranks show whow it is "nonsense" .

whow, I didn't even know how to spell metallurgist and now I are one.

How about 30 years of installing cranks with grease and nary a split
crank, just cranks that broke off at the pedal eye, the neck, and the
spider.

Jobst Brandt

I have had this problem with my cranks slipping under heavy load since I was a child 60 years ago. I have two mountain bikes, and both of them irritated me with this slip. So I overtorqued the crank bolts on one and used red Loktite on the other. The overtorqued crankpin still slips. The Loctited one does not. So I'm headed to an auto parts store for some more red Loktite.

And by the way, the young mechanic where I took the slipping bike did not know what I was talking about. He rode the bike and found the slip, but did not understand where it was coming from. I'll pick it up Monday and fix it myself. I don't know why I ever took the damn thing out there to the bicycle shop to begin with.


If you actually have a cottered crank and are not just replying to a
20 year old post, than get a cotter clamp, or maybe the call it a
cotter press.
See
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/cotters.html
and
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JIIjID_KdiY

Or maybe give A. Muzi a call, he probably has them in stock :-)
--
Cheers,

John B.


Thank you but we don't. We prefer the classic French tool:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/VAR07.JPG

My standard suggestion is that the rider bring his bike to
an old greybeard in his area who has that tool and meatware
to properly set crank pins.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On Monday, February 27, 2017 at 8:31:20 AM UTC-5, AMuzi wrote:
On 2/26/2017 8:30 PM, John B. wrote:
On Sun, 26 Feb 2017 10:13:57 -0800 (PST), Ashevilliot
wrote:

On Monday, September 15, 1997 at 3:00:00 AM UTC-4, Jobst Brandt wrote:
Sam Bond writes:

Are you an expert then? What evidence can you produce to say it is
"nonsense"? Spend some time with a micrometer and torque gauge -
produce the numbers and with your extensive knowledge of
lubrication. the strength of materials, their metalurgy and the
design of taper fitted cranks show whow it is "nonsense" .

whow, I didn't even know how to spell metallurgist and now I are one.

How about 30 years of installing cranks with grease and nary a split
crank, just cranks that broke off at the pedal eye, the neck, and the
spider.

Jobst Brandt

I have had this problem with my cranks slipping under heavy load since I was a child 60 years ago. I have two mountain bikes, and both of them irritated me with this slip. So I overtorqued the crank bolts on one and used red Loktite on the other. The overtorqued crankpin still slips. The Loctited one does not. So I'm headed to an auto parts store for some more red Loktite.

And by the way, the young mechanic where I took the slipping bike did not know what I was talking about. He rode the bike and found the slip, but did not understand where it was coming from. I'll pick it up Monday and fix it myself. I don't know why I ever took the damn thing out there to the bicycle shop to begin with.


If you actually have a cottered crank and are not just replying to a
20 year old post, than get a cotter clamp, or maybe the call it a
cotter press.
See
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/cotters.html
and
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JIIjID_KdiY

Or maybe give A. Muzi a call, he probably has them in stock :-)
--
Cheers,

John B.


Thank you but we don't. We prefer the classic French tool:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/VAR07.JPG

My standard suggestion is that the rider bring his bike to
an old greybeard in his area who has that tool and meatware
to properly set crank pins.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Thanks to JohnB and AMuzi for the fascinating comments. About 50 years ago I made a jackscrew press out of a large C-clamp which we used to press in crank cotters. I welded a section of iron pipe onto the stationary end of the C-clamp to stick the threaded end of the cotter into. Since then I have found all kinds of uses for C-clamp jackscrew presses and pullers, including a great way to press out interference fit bronze bearings and press new ones into aircraft elevator hinges.

I have another great home-made jackscrew for installing brawny 3/4" diameter shock-absorber bungees onto landing gear struts of old bushplanes like my puddle-jumping '46 Taylorcraft which I have used to haul my mountain bike around all over the mountains of the Appalachians.

I take the bike apart, an old Nishiki, and store most of it behind the seat and the frame on the passenger side...all bungeed in.

A crusty old FAA flight examiner once told me, "Don't ever let the FAA see you hauling that thing around!" I never had a nickel's worth of trouble with it and have put down on sod fields with the bike on-board, and camped out all over the Carolinas and Tennessee. Them was the days.

On Mon, 27 Feb 2017 07:31:14 -0600, AMuzi wrote:

On 2/26/2017 8:30 PM, John B. wrote:
On Sun, 26 Feb 2017 10:13:57 -0800 (PST), Ashevilliot
wrote:

On Monday, September 15, 1997 at 3:00:00 AM UTC-4, Jobst Brandt wrote:
Sam Bond writes:

Are you an expert then? What evidence can you produce to say it is
"nonsense"? Spend some time with a micrometer and torque gauge -
produce the numbers and with your extensive knowledge of
lubrication. the strength of materials, their metalurgy and the
design of taper fitted cranks show whow it is "nonsense" .

whow, I didn't even know how to spell metallurgist and now I are one.

How about 30 years of installing cranks with grease and nary a split
crank, just cranks that broke off at the pedal eye, the neck, and the
spider.

Jobst Brandt

I have had this problem with my cranks slipping under heavy load since I was a child 60 years ago. I have two mountain bikes, and both of them irritated me with this slip. So I overtorqued the crank bolts on one and used red Loktite on the other. The overtorqued crankpin still slips. The Loctited one does not. So I'm headed to an auto parts store for some more red Loktite.

And by the way, the young mechanic where I took the slipping bike did not know what I was talking about. He rode the bike and found the slip, but did not understand where it was coming from. I'll pick it up Monday and fix it myself. I don't know why I ever took the damn thing out there to the bicycle shop to begin with.


If you actually have a cottered crank and are not just replying to a
20 year old post, than get a cotter clamp, or maybe the call it a
cotter press.
See
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/cotters.html
and
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JIIjID_KdiY

Or maybe give A. Muzi a call, he probably has them in stock :-)
--
Cheers,

John B.


Thank you but we don't. We prefer the classic French tool:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/VAR07.JPG

My standard suggestion is that the rider bring his bike to
an old greybeard in his area who has that tool and meatware
to properly set crank pins.

The problem is those old graybeards are getting rather thin on the
ground these days.

In my search for non-aero brake levers I visited a shop that
originally imported the expensive Raleigh bicycles for affluent
Chinese merchants in Bangkok. All the "old folks" are gone and the two
young lads that now man the store had to be shown a picture to
understand what a "non-aero" brake lever was :-)
--
Cheers,

John B.

On Mon, 27 Feb 2017 10:58:45 -0800 (PST), Ashevilliot
wrote:

On Monday, February 27, 2017 at 8:31:20 AM UTC-5, AMuzi wrote:
On 2/26/2017 8:30 PM, John B. wrote:
On Sun, 26 Feb 2017 10:13:57 -0800 (PST), Ashevilliot
wrote:

On Monday, September 15, 1997 at 3:00:00 AM UTC-4, Jobst Brandt wrote:
Sam Bond writes:

Are you an expert then? What evidence can you produce to say it is
"nonsense"? Spend some time with a micrometer and torque gauge -
produce the numbers and with your extensive knowledge of
lubrication. the strength of materials, their metalurgy and the
design of taper fitted cranks show whow it is "nonsense" .

whow, I didn't even know how to spell metallurgist and now I are one.

How about 30 years of installing cranks with grease and nary a split
crank, just cranks that broke off at the pedal eye, the neck, and the
spider.

Jobst Brandt

I have had this problem with my cranks slipping under heavy load since I was a child 60 years ago. I have two mountain bikes, and both of them irritated me with this slip. So I overtorqued the crank bolts on one and used red Loktite on the other. The overtorqued crankpin still slips. The Loctited one does not. So I'm headed to an auto parts store for some more red Loktite.

And by the way, the young mechanic where I took the slipping bike did not know what I was talking about. He rode the bike and found the slip, but did not understand where it was coming from. I'll pick it up Monday and fix it myself. I don't know why I ever took the damn thing out there to the bicycle shop to begin with.


If you actually have a cottered crank and are not just replying to a
20 year old post, than get a cotter clamp, or maybe the call it a
cotter press.
See
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/cotters.html
and
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JIIjID_KdiY

Or maybe give A. Muzi a call, he probably has them in stock :-)
--
Cheers,

John B.


Thank you but we don't. We prefer the classic French tool:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/VAR07.JPG

My standard suggestion is that the rider bring his bike to
an old greybeard in his area who has that tool and meatware
to properly set crank pins.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Thanks to JohnB and AMuzi for the fascinating comments. About 50 years ago I made a jackscrew press out of a large C-clamp which we used to press in crank cotters. I welded a section of iron pipe onto the stationary end of the C-clamp to stick the threaded end of the cotter into. Since then I have found all kinds of uses for C-clamp jackscrew presses and pullers, including a great way to press out interference fit bronze bearings and press new ones into aircraft elevator hinges.


Way back when, the inboard aileron trim tabs on the KC-135 used to
wear out and we replaced them with aluminum-bronze bushings that we
made in the machine shop. We used a long all thread bolt to install
then :-)

I have another great home-made jackscrew for installing brawny 3/4" diameter shock-absorber bungees onto landing gear struts of old bushplanes like my puddle-jumping '46 Taylorcraft which I have used to haul my mountain bike around all over the mountains of the Appalachians.

I take the bike apart, an old Nishiki, and store most of it behind the seat and the frame on the passenger side...all bungeed in.

A crusty old FAA flight examiner once told me, "Don't ever let the FAA see you hauling that thing around!" I never had a nickel's worth of trouble with it and have put down on sod fields with the bike on-board, and camped out all over the Carolinas and Tennessee. Them was the days.
--
Cheers,

John B.

On 28/02/17 12:03, John B. wrote:

In my search for non-aero brake levers I visited a shop that
originally imported the expensive Raleigh bicycles for affluent
Chinese merchants in Bangkok. All the "old folks" are gone and the
two young lads that now man the store had to be shown a picture to
understand what a "non-aero" brake lever was :-) -- Cheers,


Probably the same lads who told me I broke a cheap quick link because I
had oiled the chain.

--
JS

On 2/27/2017 1:58 PM, Ashevilliot wrote:

I have another great home-made jackscrew for installing brawny 3/4" diameter shock-absorber bungees onto landing gear struts of old bushplanes like my puddle-jumping '46 Taylorcraft which I have used to haul my mountain bike around all over the mountains of the Appalachians.

I take the bike apart, an old Nishiki, and store most of it behind the seat and the frame on the passenger side...all bungeed in.

A crusty old FAA flight examiner once told me, "Don't ever let the FAA see you hauling that thing around!" I never had a nickel's worth of trouble with it and have put down on sod fields with the bike on-board, and camped out all over the Carolinas and Tennessee. Them was the days.

I've got to say, that sounds like great fun!


--
- Frank Krygowski

On Tue, 28 Feb 2017 12:55:54 +1100, James
wrote:

On 28/02/17 12:03, John B. wrote:

In my search for non-aero brake levers I visited a shop that
originally imported the expensive Raleigh bicycles for affluent
Chinese merchants in Bangkok. All the "old folks" are gone and the
two young lads that now man the store had to be shown a picture to
understand what a "non-aero" brake lever was :-) -- Cheers,


Probably the same lads who told me I broke a cheap quick link because I
had oiled the chain.

From our rather limited conversation I doubt that they were that
knowledgeable :-)

--
Cheers,

John B.