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What 36er should I buy?



 
 
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  #1  
Old December 4th 08, 03:28 PM posted to rec.sport.unicycling
SamGoodburn
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Default What 36er should I buy?


I'm saving up for a 36" Unicycle. I have ridden a friends once before
and loved it. Could you tell me what the benefits are of the different
36ers? I wouldnt spend a lot more on the best coker if it isn't that
much better than another one I just want to know what the cheapest 36er
that is the one for me. That could end up being the most expensive.

Tell me about 36 inch Unicycles


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  #2  
Old December 4th 08, 05:13 PM posted to rec.sport.unicycling
rob.northcott
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Default What 36er should I buy?


I don't claim to be the world expert on cokers, but FWIW:

I think it's worth the extra money for an aluminium rim (like a
Stealth) and 14g stainless spokes. When I upgraded mine from the old
steel rim and thick 12g spokes it was a massive difference in feel.

I think the square taper/ISIS choice is a matter of personal taste.
There used to be more lengths available for square taper, but now most
are available ISIS as well.

I had a super-wide hub in my old wheel, then swapped to a normal-width
one in the new wheel. I reckon the normal hub is wide enough for
strength with a good rim and tight wheel build, and I like the slightly
reduced Q. I ride mine mostly cross-country and not had any problems
(and I'm not ridiculously light like Sam W and Ken Looi - I'm 12st).

Of course, if you go for a KH frame, you have to use a normal width hub
anyway. I'm quite happy with my plain old Qu-Ax Coker-copy frame at the
moment, although the KH is probably a bit stiffer.

Apparently the new Nightrider tyre is nice, but I've not tried one so I
can't really say - still using my old ever-lasting TA.

Rob


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  #3  
Old December 4th 08, 06:21 PM posted to rec.sport.unicycling
saskatchewanian
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Default What 36er should I buy?


I am by no means a Coker expert but here goes. Listing various 36ers
with key features.


*Coker Big one:
*super wide 48h square taper hub
regular style aluminum frame
V brake compatible

Aluminum frame is the lightest you can get. I don't know about its
flex.

*Coker V2*
Same as Coker Big One but with a Cro-Mo "squid" style frame.

Heavier and stiffer than Coker Big One. Possibly stiffest (and
heaviest) frame on the market.

*Qu-Ax 36*
48h regular width ISIS hub
regular style steel frame
V-brake compatible

Rim does not have a flat breaking surface

*Nimbus Titan*
36h Supper wide Square taper hub
regular style steel frame
no brake mounts

*Nimbus Nightrider*
36h Super wide square taper hub
triangulated Cro-Mo frame
Magura compatible.

Frame has great torsional strength but is a bit flexy laterally

*Nimbus Nightrider Pro*
Same as Nimbus Nightrider but with:
36h super wide ISIS hub
eyeleted rim with machined braking surface

*KH36*
KH Moment ISIS hub (regular width 36h)
KH aluminum frame (27.2mm seatpost)
Magura compatible
Eyeleted rim with machined braking surface
Double hole cranks standard
KH-Schlumpf compatible


What it all means:

*36h or 48h*: a 36 spoke wheel will lighter than a 48 spoke wheel but a
48 spoke wheel will be stronger.

*Regular width or Super wide hub*: a Super wide hub will give you a
stronger wheel build but forces you to have a wider stance making fast
spinning more difficult. In theory a 36 spoke supper wide will be
slightly stiffer laterally than a similarly tensioned 48 spoke regular
width wheel.

*ISIS - vs - Square taper*: ISIS is a spline interface which results in
a stronger connection between cranks and the hub.

It used to be that you wanted a square taper hub for a 36er so you
could get short and light cranks. Qu-Ax now has lightweight ISIS cranks
in most popular sizes and they are relatively cheep. Another advantage
to having an ISIS setup is that there are readily available dual hole
cranks for added flexibility.

ISIS hubs use 42mm bearings and Square taper hubs use 40mm bearings so
you may not be able to put a ISIS wheelset in a non ISIS frame etc.

*Magura - vs - V brake*: Magura brakes are hydraulic rim brakes, they
are more expensive but very smooth. V brakes are what are found on most
non disk mountain bikes. They are cheeper than maguras but can work
almost as well if set up properly.

*Eyeleted rim with machined braking surface*: Eyeleted rims will allow
for higher tension resulting in a stronger stiffer wheel build. Machined
braking surfaces result in buttery smooth braking.

I believe that the Qu-Ax and Coker rims are 32mm wide and the Nimbus
and KH rims are 42mm wide. All rims are double walled aluminum alloy. A
wider rim will be more stable but may have more wind resistance
(negligible).


Hope that helps


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  #4  
Old December 4th 08, 11:22 PM posted to rec.sport.unicycling
Klaas Bil
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Default What 36er should I buy?


Wow, Saskatchewanian, what a comprehensive reply!


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  #5  
Old December 4th 08, 11:28 PM posted to rec.sport.unicycling
pedrotejada
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Default What 36er should I buy?


Klaas Bil;1143206 wrote:
Wow, Saskatchewanian, what a comprehensive reply!




+1! Thanks Man!

Can I translate that to post on our website (It still offline but we'll
have soon online!), with credits to you?


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  #6  
Old December 5th 08, 02:15 AM posted to rec.sport.unicycling
saskatchewanian
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Default What 36er should I buy?


pedrotejada;1143211 wrote:
+1! Thanks Man!

Can I translate that to post on our website (It still offline but we'll
have soon online!), with credits to you?




Sure, when crediting my name is Eric Pulvermacher.


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  #7  
Old December 5th 08, 02:21 AM posted to rec.sport.unicycling
IUni
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Default What 36er should I buy?


Sask-man:

Great post! Thanks.

That is far beyond my exploration into 36er's but definitely of some
interest to me.

Do you have any translation of value/$? The price of the KH is 1/2
again as much as the Nimbus Nightrider. The Coker and Nimbus in the mid
range, and KH at the high end. Is it worth the $$?


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  #8  
Old December 5th 08, 02:59 AM posted to rec.sport.unicycling
saskatchewanian
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Default What 36er should I buy?


Since this is going to be reproduced I decided to check a couple things
I wasn't 100% on. I guess the Coker Big One frame is not the
lightest any more, the KH is 94g lighter ('799g'
(http://blog.cokercycles.com/?p=3#more-3) vs '705g'
(http://tinyurl.com/5fhjzd)).

So pedrotejada, if you could just say that the Coker Big One frame is
light instead of the lightest that would be more accurate for your site.

I am not going to try saying which is a better deal. Prices are
different everywhere and everyone is unique in their preferences. This
was written to help people see the basic differences between the
unicycles without having to sift through all the other information we
are given at sites selling them.


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  #9  
Old December 5th 08, 06:23 AM posted to rec.sport.unicycling
phlegm
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Default What 36er should I buy?


IUni;1143296 wrote:
Do you have any translation of value/$? The price of the KH is 1/2
again as much as the Nimbus Nightrider. The Coker and Nimbus in the mid
range, and KH at the high end. Is it worth the $$?




The added price for the KH pays for the lightest and probably stiffest
stock frame as well as the nicest stiff cranks out there. If you plan
to ride offroad and/or up and down big/steep hills, then you'd
appreciate the stiffness. Otherwise you'd probably be just as happy
with a Nimbus or Coker.


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  #10  
Old December 5th 08, 05:01 PM posted to rec.sport.unicycling
corbin
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Default What 36er should I buy?


phlegm;1143389 wrote:
The added price for the KH pays for the lightest and probably stiffest
stock frame as well as the nicest stiff cranks out there. If you plan
to ride offroad and/or up and down big/steep hills, then you'd
appreciate the stiffness. Otherwise you'd probably be just as happy
with a Nimbus or Coker.




I agree. Another benefit of the cranks on the KH is that they are damn
strong. I have bent *countless* square tapered cranks on my
Coker(s)/Nimbuses. That stopped when I moved on to the schlumpf ISIS
hub with the strong KH 125/150 cranks. That enough is a reason to get
the KH, but now that the new Nimbuses have ISIS hubs,it may no longer be
a main selling factor.

corbin


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