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#61
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The one thing that couldn't go wrong, did go wrong.
Snippage of Fogelisms
Dear Carl, Where have you been? I would have thought you would have brought your own special take on the idiocy expressed by our now-less-esteemed co-cyclist Blair long before now. Good to see you participating in the windmill tilting. My worthless contribution: Obviously, Blair, given your free-floating anxiety and your amazing ability to generate false dangers, you don't ride much. Probably not at all. So what does it matter what's in the back? Get a pair, you ninny. App |
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#62
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The one thing that couldn't go wrong, did go wrong.
A Muzi wrote:
Here's the later (final) Holdsworth facility on Oakfield road; no 'furnace brazing'. I didn't see any 'hearth brazing'(as it was called then) when I was at the Putney facility in the early seventies either. My own '53 Raleigh _was_ built that way. It's been widened and even de-pretzeled after an horrific crash but rides straight to this day. Every day. Thanks for taking the time to correct old misinformation on Holdsworth, something repeated to me (you know, as an owner, hearing "hey, those are furnace brazed"). Well, it had lots of chances to break g and didn't, no matter how the tubes got stuck together. I didn't mention that the Holdsworth paint/graphics didn't seem to lack in comparison to the 2x expen$ive Roberts, either. Nice frame, however many they made, etc. --TP |
#63
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The one thing that couldn't go wrong, did go wrong.
On Mon, 15 Aug 2005 12:36:45 -0400, Alex Rodriguez
wrote: I put about 10k miles on a Specialized Epic carbon fiber frame after I just jammed in the wider wheel. It was originally spaced for a 126mm wheel and I just spread the stays and put in a 130mm wheel. No problems at all. It just meant I had spread the stays every time I put the wheel back on. Not a big deal. I'm sure someone is still riding that frame. Eek, on carbon fiber? I wouldn't be so happy with that. Steel, yes, aluminium, even (though only temporary spreading, not coldsetting), yes, but CF I'd avoid. Jasper |
#64
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The one thing that couldn't go wrong, did go wrong.
Blair P. Houghton wrote: ---snipping Blair's concerns--- Ok. Simple solution. Ditch the Neuvations. Look for a pair of NOS 7 speed freehubs (E-bay has tons). These will be 126mm spacing. Have a LBS build a set of wheels for you. Take your spiffy new 9 speed casette, and ditch a cog. Place the now 8 speed casette onto the 7 speed freehub. Adjust the limit screws on your rear der. so that you cannot make the '9th' shift (onto your largest cog). You now have an 8 of 9 on 7 setup (Sheldon describes this process at http://sheldonbrown.com/k7.html#up7 ) |
#65
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The one thing that couldn't go wrong, did go wrong.
On 16 Aug 2005 23:55:54 -0700, "StaceyJ" wrote:
Ok. Simple solution. Ditch the Neuvations. Look for a pair of NOS 7 speed freehubs (E-bay has tons). These will be 126mm spacing. Have a LBS build a set of wheels for you. Take your spiffy new 9 speed casette, and ditch a cog. Place the now 8 speed casette onto the 7 speed freehub. Adjust the limit screws on your rear der. so that you cannot make the '9th' shift (onto your largest cog). You now have an 8 of 9 on 7 setup (Sheldon describes this process at http://sheldonbrown.com/k7.html#up7 ) Except, ebay the spiffy new cassette and get a cheaper one that doesn't have spidered big cogs, so you can actually get the combo you want (or you can remove a cog in the middle if you want to keep both the cassette and the 12t). Really, though? Just have someone respace your ****ing frame already. You're taking more chances with it simply by riding it and taking the chance it'll get hit by a car. The Borg 8 of 9 'solution' really isn't much of a solution. Jasper |
#66
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The one thing that couldn't go wrong, did go wrong.
A Muzi wrote:
Here's the later (final) Holdsworth facility on Oakfield road; no 'furnace brazing'. http://www.yellowjersey.org/hwfact.html Way too cool. Still looking for decals? I saw some NOS Holdsworth frames for sale at the College Park Bicycles website, and IIRC there was something about getting decals included. Don't remember whether it meant some frame already had decals applied or they would apply them if you wanted. --Blair "Mine's naked." |
#67
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The one thing that couldn't go wrong, did go wrong.
wrote:
Blair P. Houghton wrote: The dropouts themselves are Campagnolo-made hardened lugs that Holdsworth welded to the Reynolds tubing. ?? That's not making sense to me. For one thing, isn't it brazed construction instead of welded? And regarding the lugs - do you have a picture? http://www.sheldonbrown.com/singlespeed.html See about halfway down under "Horizontal Dropout Campagnolo 1010". Looks pretty much like mine; and from what I've seen elsewhere about Holdsworths, the 1010 is one dropout they used, if not the only one. The "lug" portion would be everything below and left of the stays. The triangle, the dropout, and the hangers. That part is hardened, and was made by Campagnolo, while the stays are not. It could be brazed to the stays, but it's finished and painted, so I can't see exactly what's been done where they attach to the seatstay and chainstay. --Blair "And it'd be kinda hard to find the guy what did it..." |
#68
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The one thing that couldn't go wrong, did go wrong.
41 wrote:
Blair P. Houghton wrote: It's exasperating or amusing to watch you and JB talk past each other over the axle length. All he is saying is that the required frame spacing is determined by the hub and cogset width, because that is the unalterable part of the equaiton. From that, you determine the correct But in this case, we're not altering the frame spacing. I can choose hubs and cogsets. overlocknut distance. If the axle is too long, hacksaw off the excess or even use nutted fittings instead of a QR. If it's two mm on each side you may not even have to make any correction. Thus the axle length is not the determining factor, although in practice most people just change the axle instead of hacksawing it. I can't find replacement axles anywhere, though the Internet isn't really the place to be looking for exotic parts, even if it's the place to look for the people who have the exotic parts. (They aren't often the sort of people who put every part online...) I've seen indications that I shouldn't have had any problem getting a 130-mm axle into my 126-mm frame, but that frame wasn't budging, so I don't know what's going on there. The spring constant is way too high (because it's not a lack of arm strength on my part, he said, curling 70 lbs in either hand). And even if I get a 126-mm axle, I'm now certain there's no room for a 9-speed. Well, my way of thinking is, classic bike, plenty of 13-2x freewheels available NOS on eBay, less than 13 teeth no great use, you should be able to use a classic setup with no problem and no practical disadvantages. Your old hub is probably just fine, all you need is a new rim and to lace it to the old hub. If you can get a rim with the same ERD you can even reuse the spokes. The hub isn't as fine as it could be. When the wheel turns and the freewheel is held stationary (e.g., as in coasting), you can see the freewheel orbit a little. It's been that way as long as I can remember. The wheel doesn't have an eccentricity, though, so the eccentricity is between the axle and the freewheel. I could get a replacement freewheel, but I think I need a whole new rear wheel. Very few 126-mm setups out there. Good luck with whatever you end up doing.o Right now, because I changed chains, I'm effectively riding a fixie. Every cog but the 16T skips under heavy load. I really needed that rear to work. But it's okay, because as soon as I leave the driveway I shift into 52/16, and I don't shift out until I'm cooling down (and I'm avoiding the one big hill in the neighborhood). I've probably logged 99% of my miles the past year in that gear. Which is probably why it's the only combination that will accept the new chain, though you'd suspect it should be the other way around... --Blair "Just like riding a bike." |
#69
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The one thing that couldn't go wrong, did go wrong.
Dennis P. Harris wrote:
On Sun, 14 Aug 2005 22:14:27 GMT in rec.bicycles.tech, Blair P. Houghton wrote: You say it's easy, why don't you pony up and indemnify the process against any sort of mechanical error for the $20k or so this frame is really worth to me. oh, bullpucky. no frame is worth that much, and you're just obsessive. PLONK. I work about 100 feet from a guy who paid $3 million for a baseball he never hit himself. Conversely, in the right context, no frame is worth the price of postage. So you want me to be happy? Send me a nice Bianchi road frame in my size, and I'll send you the price of the postage, and you'll be way ahead on the deal. In the original Celeste, if you have one. And get that plonking sound checked. That's what clued me my front wheel was losing spoke-hole rivets. --Blair "Which is where this all began." |
#70
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The one thing that couldn't go wrong, did go wrong.
Alex Rodriguez wrote:
In article , says... Dennis P. Harris wrote: On Sat, 13 Aug 2005 06:53:01 GMT in rec.bicycles.tech, Blair P. Houghton wrote: But I've got enough practice with mechanicals to know that theory don't mean **** when you're standing there with a broken widget in your hand. it's steel. it's not going to break. ...said the designers of the Tacoma Narrows bridge. How many bridges have done the same since then? You are not the first person doing the procedure, so that is not a good analogy. Just bend it and ride it. They weren't the first people building a bridge, a suspension bridge, or a suspension bridge in high winds. --Blair "Just shimming your logic." |
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