KH Hub, care and feeding????

I'm building my KH 26x3 unicycle wheel this week and I'm wanting to know
if any one has a moment to share your experience on the assembling the
KH crank arms on a new KH hub? I know the drill on all my square taper
stuff all too well, but not sure . . . . how tight, use grease? or
locktite, where? and do I need a different type of crank arm puller to
remove crank arms in the future? Anything else I need to know?

Maybe there is already another thread that answers these questions?

Feedback appreciated.

Brycer1968


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brycer1968 wrote:
I'm building my KH 26x3 unicycle wheel this week and I'm wanting to know
if any one has a moment to share your experience on the assembling the
KH crank arms on a new KH hub? I know the drill on all my square taper
stuff all too well, but not sure . . . . how tight, use grease? or
locktite, where? and do I need a different type of crank arm puller to
remove crank arms in the future? Anything else I need to know?

Maybe there is already another thread that answers these questions?

Feedback appreciated.

Brycer1968



The splines are a lot less problematic than the square tapers. I would
still put some grease or anti-seize on the spline/crank interface, but
other than that, just crank the bolt down tight and you'll be fine.


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I recently built a new wheel for my Muni using the Moment Hub. As was
already suggested, I used a small amount of grease on the splines
before putting on the crank arms. I then tightened up the hex head bolt
as tight as I could. After my ride, I found that the bolts had gotten
loose, I tightened them both up again. Next ride, 1 bolt had come
loose. This time, I used locktite on the threads of the hex head bolt,
reinstalled and haven't had a problem since.

I would be interested if anyone else has had an issue with the bolt
coming loose.


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One on one wrote:
I recently built a new wheel for my Muni using the Moment Hub. As was
already suggested, I used a small amount of grease on the splines
before putting on the crank arms. I then tightened up the hex head bolt
as tight as I could. After my ride, I found that the bolts had gotten
loose, I tightened them both up again. Next ride, 1 bolt had come
loose. This time, I used locktite on the threads of the hex head bolt,
reinstalled and haven't had a problem since.

I would be interested if anyone else has had an issue with the bolt
coming loose.

Regarding the crank puller, I used the same puller that I would use on
my square taper cranks, but with an important change. I installed the
hex head bolt loosely into the hub and then used the puller normally. I
was concerned with cranking the puller into the threaded section of the
hub. By putting the bolt in first, my puller was pushing down onto the
outside of the bolt. The cranks come loose with out much persuasion.



My bolt has only loosened up once. It was the left crank, and I was
riding down a hill. I feel a little scratch on my ankle, which is
pretty weird to feel while riding the Moment cranks. So I look down,
and there is a nub, and then it fell out. It sucked, but I got it in,
and got back home and tightened it up.

For my cranks though, I have self-extracting bolts, so as soon as the
bolt is out, the crank comes off either with it, or you just barely
pull and it slides off.


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Definitely grease the splines. Maybe I shouldn't of greased the bolt.
On my 05 KH it has come loose a lot. Next time I rotate the cranks I
will clean the grease out and put the bolt in with blue loctite.
On the 05 KH, the splines are straight, and the cranks will pull off
by hand. The 07 has a tapered spline, and will need a puller.
I like this tool I picked up recently. It will pull square or
splined cranks. It actually has a hole in the handle, that the second
adapter snaps in for storage, but otherwise is like this picture.
http://tinyurl.com/392uxq


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Thanks for the bit on grease and locktite and crank removal. That all
sounds good, but how tight should I get that allen bolt? I'm used to
going for 55-60 foot pounds on the UDC square taper hubs, but I know
thats not needed with the splined hub, right??

brycer1968


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brycer1968 wrote:
I'm wanting to know if any one has a *moment* to share your experience
on the assembling the KH crank arms on a new KH hub?



nobody else got the pun?


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and ran over the uni.
Felt like putting my head under the tire.
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brycer1968 wrote:
That all sounds good, but how tight should I get that allen bolt? I'm
used to going for 55-60 foot pounds on the UDC square taper hubs, but I
know thats not needed with the splined hub, right??
brycer1968



Hand tight with an allen wrench. Definitely don't need a torque wrench.


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One on one wrote:
I recently built a new wheel for my Muni using the Moment Hub. As was
already suggested, I used a small amount of grease on the splines
before putting on the crank arms. I then tightened up the hex head bolt
as tight as I could. After my ride, I found that the bolts had gotten
loose, I tightened them both up again. Next ride, 1 bolt had come
loose. This time, I used locktite on the threads of the hex head bolt,
reinstalled and haven't had a problem since.

I would be interested if anyone else has had an issue with the bolt
coming loose.

Regarding the crank puller, I used the same puller that I would use on
my square taper cranks, but with an important change. I installed the
hex head bolt loosely into the hub and then used the puller normally. I
was concerned with cranking the puller into the threaded section of the
hub. By putting the bolt in first, my puller was pushing down onto the
outside of the bolt. The cranks come loose with out much persuasion.



One on one,

_Bolts_coming_loose_
As a general rule: After first installation (or even after "another"
installation) the cranks, especially if they are made of aluminum
alloy, tend to "give up" a little with each of the following few rides!
This means the contact patch between cranks and hub will tend to grow
(to a bigger %). In other words the respective crank hole will adapt to
the microscopic details of the hub interface, thus will enlarge
slightly. So, on tapered interfaces (square, ISIS...) this effect
allows the crank to enter deeper on the axle (actually it's the other
way around) thus needing further bolt tightening.

The above saying is valid for all tapered interfaces. As cranks and hub
wore-out they will engage deeper and deeper until eventually the
bolt/nut will press against the hub end or will run out of thread.
Obviously this will not happen immediately - I just pointed out idea...

However ISIS was designed in such a way that cranks will enter on the
axle to a certain point only (see ISIS standard...many numbers here).
In practice sometimes to reach that "end" point you need to either
tighten the bolt excessively from the beginning and risk damaging the
threads or wait for the natural "give-up" process of the materials.

Finally, here is how I do it and never had problems: whenever I
(re-)install the cranks I tighten the bolts hand-tight (with a 15cm
lever allen key) at first and then after every ride for a while. Witch
each ride the bolts allow for a lesser and lesser such tightening until
eventually coming to a stop. Actually I consider it's enough to do 3-5
tightening sessions but it's good to check things from time to time
later.
So, generally it's not the bolts that are getting loose but the
interface "gives-up" a little. Then if you use Loctite from the very
first time after installation then you may have a false illusion that
the interface is tight! I recommend against using Loctite in this case
and in all other situations where it's not strictly necessary!
Instead, you should use grease for both the interface and the bolts!!!
.............................................
_Crank_puller_
They are the same for square and ISIS. The same actual tool but the tip
should differ only - wider for ISIS (~16mm) and narrower for square
(~10mm).
Be carefully which one you use for which application or you'll lose
some money!

You should never use the puller with the bolt inside, on the same side.
This is a very bad idea. By the way: the puller has to be fully screwed
in the crank. There were cases of puller stripping the crank
threads...so watch out!

Finally, KH Moment hub uses M12 bolts and thus has plenty of metal wall
to press against - no need for additional gadgets!

Hope this helps,
Flaviu


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