Need crank help.

What are all of your experiences with the Monties, the Black Widows, the
Doteks....and cranks in general. I have a United 24" Extra Large trainer
that I have been riding for a year. All my hopping and stair climbing
has bent my steel cranks. I'm also 215 pounds. I need to upgrade, but it
seems like there are mixed reviews everywhere. My cranks are square
taper and upgrading to splined is not an option now. I do mostly just
normal riding, including curb drops and hops and the occasional
staircase or two. I intend to take it offroad in the future. Any help is
appreciated.


--
Sigurd
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I wouldn't go for any of those aluminum cranks, especially given your
215 pound size. Steel cranks are going to be better for you. Just keep
an extra pair of steel cranks on hand because they are eventually going
to bend.

The problem with the aluminum cranks is that it takes very high quality
aluminum cranks to handle heavy riders and any sort of rough treatment.
All of those cranks are made out of a softer series of aluminum. The
really expensive and strong aluminum cranks are made out of 7000 series
aluminum (like 7075) and are much stronger. The strong cranks like the
Kookas are made from the stronger aluminum.

What size wheel are you using and what length cranks do you want. There
may be some other options.


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I wouldn't go for any of those aluminum cranks, especially given your
215 pound size. Steel cranks are going to be better for you. Just keep
an extra pair of steel cranks on hand because they are eventually going
to bend.

The problem with the aluminum cranks is that it takes very high quality
aluminum cranks to handle heavy riders and any sort of rough treatment.
All of those cranks are made out of a softer series of aluminum. The
really expensive and strong aluminum cranks are made out of 7000 series
aluminum (like 7075) and are much stronger. The strong cranks like the
Kookas are made from the stronger aluminum.

What size wheel are you using and what length cranks do you want. There
may be some other options.


--
john_childs - Guinness Mojo

More flattery will make me feel better
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Ok, I always thought that there was just one type of aluminum. So the
best trials cranks are the better grade of aluminum? I guess for the
uni I'm using and what I'm doing I don't need that much crank. The ones
I have now are steel and they started to bend when I started hopping. I
have a 24" wheel and I'm looking to get 140-150. I have 150s now. I
like the torque for hills, but I like to cruise too. Almost leaning
more towards the 140s.

Thanks for the help. =)


--
Sigurd
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Ok, I always thought that there was just one type of aluminum. So the
best trials cranks are the better grade of aluminum? I guess for the
uni I'm using and what I'm doing I don't need that much crank. The ones
I have now are steel and they started to bend when I started hopping. I
have a 24" wheel and I'm looking to get 140-150. I have 150s now. I
like the torque for hills, but I like to cruise too. Almost leaning
more towards the 140s.

Thanks for the help. =)


--
Sigurd
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Sigurd wrote:
*Ok, I always thought that there was just one type of aluminum. So
the best trials cranks are the better grade of aluminum? I guess for
the uni I'm using and what I'm doing I don't need that much crank.
The ones I have now are steel and they started to bend when I started
hopping. I have a 24" wheel and I'm looking to get 140-150. I have
150s now. I like the torque for hills, but I like to cruise too.
Almost leaning more towards the 140s.

Thanks for the help. =) *


There are many different grades of aluminum. Aluminum bicycle parts are
all made from aluminum alloy, they're not made from pure aluminum.
There are many different aluminum alloys. Different alloys have
different properties. Some will be softer and more malleable, while
others will be harder and stronger. Some alloys are less expensive and
easier to machine while others are stronger and more difficult to
machine. The choice of what alloy to use makes a big difference in the
final strength of the crank. The more expensive cranks generally use
the stronger alloys.

In addition to the choice of alloy there is also the manufacturing
process. Some cranks are made from cast aluminum. Cast aluminum cranks
will be very weak (think Lasko). Some cranks are machined from a solid
block of aluminum alloy. The better cranks are first forged and then
machined. The more machining required the more expensive the cranks are
going to be.

All aluminum cranks are not created equal. The choice of alloy and the
manufacturing process are very important factors in determining the
strength of a crank.

Unless you plan on spending big bucks for a custom set of cut down Kooka
cranks, you're going to be better off getting steel cranks. The steel
cranks will eventually bend, but they're also cheaper than good strong
aluminum cranks. Steel also has the advantage that it will first bend
before breaking in two. When aluminum cranks fail the fail quickly and
catastrophically (meaning the break in two with little warning).

In the 140 mm length, there's the Schwinn steel cranks. In the 150 mm
length, there's the Bicycle Euro steel cranks along with others. The
Bicycle Euro cranks have a reputation for being stronger than the
others.

Keep an extra set of cranks on hand so that when you do eventually bend
the cranks you have something to replace them with.

If you continue to have constant problems with bending cranks then it's
time to consider one of the splined setups. The splined cranks are
bigger, beefier, stronger.


--
john_childs - Guinness Mojo

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Sigurd wrote:
*Ok, I always thought that there was just one type of aluminum. So
the best trials cranks are the better grade of aluminum? I guess for
the uni I'm using and what I'm doing I don't need that much crank.
The ones I have now are steel and they started to bend when I started
hopping. I have a 24" wheel and I'm looking to get 140-150. I have
150s now. I like the torque for hills, but I like to cruise too.
Almost leaning more towards the 140s.

Thanks for the help. =) *


There are many different grades of aluminum. Aluminum bicycle parts are
all made from aluminum alloy, they're not made from pure aluminum.
There are many different aluminum alloys. Different alloys have
different properties. Some will be softer and more malleable, while
others will be harder and stronger. Some alloys are less expensive and
easier to machine while others are stronger and more difficult to
machine. The choice of what alloy to use makes a big difference in the
final strength of the crank. The more expensive cranks generally use
the stronger alloys.

In addition to the choice of alloy there is also the manufacturing
process. Some cranks are made from cast aluminum. Cast aluminum cranks
will be very weak (think Lasko). Some cranks are machined from a solid
block of aluminum alloy. The better cranks are first forged and then
machined. The more machining required the more expensive the cranks are
going to be.

All aluminum cranks are not created equal. The choice of alloy and the
manufacturing process are very important factors in determining the
strength of a crank.

Unless you plan on spending big bucks for a custom set of cut down Kooka
cranks, you're going to be better off getting steel cranks. The steel
cranks will eventually bend, but they're also cheaper than good strong
aluminum cranks. Steel also has the advantage that it will first bend
before breaking in two. When aluminum cranks fail the fail quickly and
catastrophically (meaning the break in two with little warning).

In the 140 mm length, there's the Schwinn steel cranks. In the 150 mm
length, there's the Bicycle Euro steel cranks along with others. The
Bicycle Euro cranks have a reputation for being stronger than the
others.

Keep an extra set of cranks on hand so that when you do eventually bend
the cranks you have something to replace them with.

If you continue to have constant problems with bending cranks then it's
time to consider one of the splined setups. The splined cranks are
bigger, beefier, stronger.


--
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Hey thanks a lot, john. I appreciate it. So the widows are going to be
a not-so-good choice for my weight (220)? Or are they just weak
aluminum, period? I have heard mixed things about the Euros and I need
cranks before the 4th of July parade!!

Thanks. It helps me out.


--
Sigurd
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Hey thanks a lot, john. I appreciate it. So the widows are going to be
a not-so-good choice for my weight (220)? Or are they just weak
aluminum, period? I have heard mixed things about the Euros and I need
cranks before the 4th of July parade!!

Thanks. It helps me out.


--
Sigurd
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Listen to John.

You don't want to be spending close to $100 on aluminum cranks that are
going to break.

You need to be thinking "upgrade to splined", but just get the bicycle
Euro's on the cheap until you can save the money.

You can buy a splined 24" Torker for $149.00 on e-bay(plus $20.00
shipping). They come with 150mm cranks that won't break.


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elmer - uniimpaired

"At 40 life begins...to show."
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