A Cycling & bikes forum. CycleBanter.com

Go Back   Home » CycleBanter.com forum » rec.bicycles » Techniques
Site Map Home Register Authors List Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Web Partners

Weights of my bikes



 
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #31  
Old May 19th 21, 01:43 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
JBeattie
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 5,870
Default Weights of my bikes

On Tuesday, May 18, 2021 at 5:20:46 PM UTC-7, wrote:
On Tuesday, May 18, 2021 at 11:15:30 AM UTC-7, wrote:
Op dinsdag 18 mei 2021 om 19:55:43 UTC+2 schreef :
On Tue, 18 May 2021 10:14:02 -0700 (PDT), Lou Holtman
wrote:

Op dinsdag 18 mei 2021 om 19:04:53 UTC+2 schreef :
On Tue, 18 May 2021 06:38:23 -0700 (PDT), Lou Holtman
wrote:

Op dinsdag 18 mei 2021 om 04:53:45 UTC+2 schreef James:
On 18/5/21 10:22 am, jbeattie wrote:


BTW, your garage operating room is again impressive. I wouldn't know
how to work in such a clean, well organized and lighted space.. It
would be disorienting. I'm acclimated to the dim, industrial
revolution feel of my garage and basement shop.
That's a garage? I thought it was Lou's kitchen!

--
JS

At the moment it is the repair shop of my dryer:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DfgedkfM7euUvgo28
Lou, waiting for parts.
I think I see the problem with the dryer. Such dryers were not
designed to operate in a clean room environment. They work best when
fed a diet of lint and dust. I suggest you prime your dryer with
these ingredients and see if it magically recovers.

The problem is the suppression capacitor (is that correct English?) and the heater.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/puAn2wC9jP9jKVVX9

No. It's either the induction motor "start capacitor" or the "run
capacitor". I can't tell from your photo:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_capacitor
https://www.capefearair.com/article/what-is-the-difference-between-a-start-capacitor-and-a-run-capacitor
There should also be a motor centrifugal cutoff switch in series with
the start capacitor, which disconnects the start capacitor as soon as
the motor reaches operating speed. If the contacts on this switch
fail to open due to insufficient RPM or the switch is in some way
defective, the start capacitor will become very hot very quickly.

I don't think so it is the capacitor that has to prevent spikes on the grid. Here is a different view:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Mum5VkyGag93BFj1A
the blue, brown and yellow/green wires (Dutch and EU(?) color codes) are connected to the power plug that goes into the wall socket. My fuse blew even after I had turned off the dryer (power plug still plugged in). I concluded that this capacitor had a shorcut so I removed the side panel and I found this. Also checked the heater and that was not looking good either although I don't think this caused the fuse to blow but I will replace it anyway. I'm open for better suggestions.

The fuse that blew I would assume was in your home electrical system. From the number of wires I would expect your home service is three phase AC. The capacitor is three capacitors and each end is attached to one phase and to hard ground. That is how it protects against surges. In that manner the dryer turned off would not effect the blowing of the fuse IF one of the capacitors was shorted. This could happen with a high voltage surge. Surge protectors like this plays hob with the electrical phases.

You don't need phase shift capacitors to start a three phase motor.


A dryer is single phase 220.

-- Jay Beattie.
Ads
  #32  
Old May 19th 21, 02:36 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Jeff Liebermann
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 4,018
Default Weights of my bikes

On Tue, 18 May 2021 17:20:44 -0700 (PDT), Tom Kunich
wrote:

The fuse that blew I would assume was in your home electrical
system.


Most houses have circuit breakers, not fuses.

From the number of wires I would expect your home service is
three phase AC.


Ummm... did you look at the data sheet for the dryer? I was rather
surprised to see that the US version runs on 120VAC 60Hz:
https://www.mieleusa.com/e/t1-heat-pump-tumble-dryer-twi-180-wp-eco-and-steam-wificonn-ct-lotus-white-10666300-p
Click on "Technical Details" and then "Show all technical details".
The numbers are near the bottom of the page.

Belgium runs on 230VAC 50Hz. The Miele site for Belgium limits me to
French and Dutch.
https://www.miele.be/fr/c/index.htm?rdeLocaleAttr=fr
I can blunder my way through the French. The site insists that I
register before I can look at their catalog. So, I'm stuck.

To the best of my knowledge, few homes have 3 phase power. In the US,
domestic power is normally 2 phase 115VAC. The 2 phases are combined
to form 230VAC for running higher power appliances such as air
conditioners and dryers. It is possible to obtain 3 phase power from
the local power company, but it's not very commonly done. Most often,
homeowners who need 3 phase power to run their home machine shops use
a VFD (variable frequency drive) converter, that takes the 230VAC 2
phase and converts it to 230VAC 3 phase:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Variable-frequency_drive
We have one running a mill and a lathe at a friends home machine shop:
http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/pics/CNC-conversion/index.html
Sorry, I forgot to take a photo of the VFD.

The capacitor is three capacitors and each end is attached to one phase and to hard ground. That is how it protects against surges.


The capacitor is there to comply with European conducted EMI/RFI
specifications, which are more stringent than US specifications. If
you want to suppress power surges, you use a surge suppressor, which
is composed of LC filters and MOV (metal oxide varistors) devices to
clamp the maximum voltage to a safe level.

In that manner the dryer turned off would not effect the blowing
of the fuse IF one of the capacitors was shorted. This could happen
with a high voltage surge. Surge protectors like this plays hob
with the electrical phases.


Sorry, you lost me there. It's really difficult to blow a fuse by
turning something off.

You don't need phase shift capacitors to start a three phase motor.


Yes, that's correct. However, the 3 phase power usually does NOT come
from the AC power line. The motor is 3 phase, driven by an AC to DC
to 3 phase AC VFD (variable frequency drive) that provides the 3
phases. You'll find those in modern power tools, appliances, etc.
It's NOT as simple as it sounds, but is very useful for devices that
require different speeds, such as a washing machine, torque control,
maximum efficiency, and of course, lowest possible cost:
"Washing Machine Three-Phase AC Induction Motor Drive"
https://www.nxp.com/docs/en/application-note/AN3234.pdf

The 3 phase drive technology is also applicable to eBikes:
https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/the-three-phase-one-e-bike#/
https://electripbikes.com/its-here/
Not much benefit over brushless DC motors, except that the AC motor is
smaller. Soon, everyone will be riding an eBike powered by a tiny 3
phase motor.

I was going to give you a perfect score for getting everything wrong,
but you redeemed yourself with one last correct explanation (even if
you got the source of the 3 phase power wrong). Congratulations and
better luck next time.

--
Jeff Liebermann
PO Box 272
http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
  #33  
Old May 19th 21, 02:47 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Frank Krygowski[_4_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 10,538
Default Weights of my bikes

On 5/18/2021 7:32 PM, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Tuesday, May 18, 2021 at 11:15:53 AM UTC-7, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 5/18/2021 11:16 AM, Tom Kunich wrote:

Jay, we've just gone through this entire charade of titanium being as fatigue prone as anything else.

Bull****. Nobody said that. It sprung from your imagination.
We don't get actual fatigue failures unless a material is stressed to 90% or so of its maximum strength repeatedly.

Also bull****. Quit spouting ignorant nonsense.

Frank, you continue to make it clear why you were a teacher and not a real engineer. http://www.metalspiping.com/the-fati...um-alloys.html

"The fatigue behaviours are often illustrated by a Stress – Number of Cycles (S-N) curve, which are often described by two parameters: fatigue life tells us how long a titanium component survives at a particular stress, while fatigue strength is the maximum stress a titanium component endures without occurance of fatigue cracks after a large numbers of cycles,"

A real engineer is aware that there are stress levels below where fatigue failures do not occur.


I have been aware of that for over 50 years. That does not refute what I
said above, nor does it confirm what you said above. For one thing, a
typical value of the fatigue limit (or endurance limit) is roughly 50%
of the ultimate strength of a metal. It's nowhere near 90%.

Want a reference? Try Table 1 of this paper:
https://www.osti.gov/pages/servlets/purl/1564171

So your response is yet another Kunich deflection, even though you gave
a largely irrelevant web citation.


--
- Frank Krygowski
  #34  
Old May 19th 21, 04:09 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Ralph Barone[_4_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 853
Default Weights of my bikes

jbeattie wrote:
On Tuesday, May 18, 2021 at 5:20:46 PM UTC-7, wrote:
On Tuesday, May 18, 2021 at 11:15:30 AM UTC-7, wrote:
Op dinsdag 18 mei 2021 om 19:55:43 UTC+2 schreef :
On Tue, 18 May 2021 10:14:02 -0700 (PDT), Lou Holtman
wrote:

Op dinsdag 18 mei 2021 om 19:04:53 UTC+2 schreef :
On Tue, 18 May 2021 06:38:23 -0700 (PDT), Lou Holtman
wrote:

Op dinsdag 18 mei 2021 om 04:53:45 UTC+2 schreef James:
On 18/5/21 10:22 am, jbeattie wrote:


BTW, your garage operating room is again impressive. I wouldn't know
how to work in such a clean, well organized and lighted space. It
would be disorienting. I'm acclimated to the dim, industrial
revolution feel of my garage and basement shop.
That's a garage? I thought it was Lou's kitchen!

--
JS

At the moment it is the repair shop of my dryer:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DfgedkfM7euUvgo28
Lou, waiting for parts.
I think I see the problem with the dryer. Such dryers were not
designed to operate in a clean room environment. They work best when
fed a diet of lint and dust. I suggest you prime your dryer with
these ingredients and see if it magically recovers.

The problem is the suppression capacitor (is that correct English?) and the heater.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/puAn2wC9jP9jKVVX9

No. It's either the induction motor "start capacitor" or the "run
capacitor". I can't tell from your photo:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_capacitor
https://www.capefearair.com/article/what-is-the-difference-between-a-start-capacitor-and-a-run-capacitor

There should also be a motor centrifugal cutoff switch in series with
the start capacitor, which disconnects the start capacitor as soon as
the motor reaches operating speed. If the contacts on this switch
fail to open due to insufficient RPM or the switch is in some way
defective, the start capacitor will become very hot very quickly.

I don't think so it is the capacitor that has to prevent spikes on the
grid. Here is a different view:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Mum5VkyGag93BFj1A
the blue, brown and yellow/green wires (Dutch and EU(?) color codes)
are connected to the power plug that goes into the wall socket. My fuse
blew even after I had turned off the dryer (power plug still plugged
in). I concluded that this capacitor had a shorcut so I removed the
side panel and I found this. Also checked the heater and that was not
looking good either although I don't think this caused the fuse to blow
but I will replace it anyway. I'm open for better suggestions.

The fuse that blew I would assume was in your home electrical system.
From the number of wires I would expect your home service is three phase
AC. The capacitor is three capacitors and each end is attached to one
phase and to hard ground. That is how it protects against surges. In
that manner the dryer turned off would not effect the blowing of the
fuse IF one of the capacitors was shorted. This could happen with a high
voltage surge. Surge protectors like this plays hob with the electrical phases.

You don't need phase shift capacitors to start a three phase motor.


A dryer is single phase 220.

-- Jay Beattie.


In North America, definitely.

  #35  
Old May 19th 21, 06:36 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Lou Holtman[_5_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 826
Default Weights of my bikes

Op woensdag 19 mei 2021 om 02:26:38 UTC+2 schreef :
On Tue, 18 May 2021 11:15:28 -0700 (PDT), Lou Holtman
wrote:

Op dinsdag 18 mei 2021 om 19:55:43 UTC+2 schreef :
On Tue, 18 May 2021 10:14:02 -0700 (PDT), Lou Holtman
wrote:

Op dinsdag 18 mei 2021 om 19:04:53 UTC+2 schreef :
On Tue, 18 May 2021 06:38:23 -0700 (PDT), Lou Holtman
wrote:

Op dinsdag 18 mei 2021 om 04:53:45 UTC+2 schreef James:
On 18/5/21 10:22 am, jbeattie wrote:


BTW, your garage operating room is again impressive. I wouldn't know
how to work in such a clean, well organized and lighted space. It
would be disorienting. I'm acclimated to the dim, industrial
revolution feel of my garage and basement shop.
That's a garage? I thought it was Lou's kitchen!

--
JS

At the moment it is the repair shop of my dryer:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DfgedkfM7euUvgo28
Lou, waiting for parts.
I think I see the problem with the dryer. Such dryers were not
designed to operate in a clean room environment. They work best when
fed a diet of lint and dust. I suggest you prime your dryer with
these ingredients and see if it magically recovers.

The problem is the suppression capacitor (is that correct English?) and the heater.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/puAn2wC9jP9jKVVX9

No. It's either the induction motor "start capacitor" or the "run
capacitor". I can't tell from your photo:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_capacitor
https://www.capefearair.com/article/what-is-the-difference-between-a-start-capacitor-and-a-run-capacitor
There should also be a motor centrifugal cutoff switch in series with
the start capacitor, which disconnects the start capacitor as soon as
the motor reaches operating speed. If the contacts on this switch
fail to open due to insufficient RPM or the switch is in some way
defective, the start capacitor will become very hot very quickly.


I don't think so it is the capacitor that has to prevent spikes on the grid. Here is a different view:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Mum5VkyGag93BFj1A
the blue, brown and yellow/green wires (Dutch and EU(?) color codes) are connected to the power plug that goes into the wall socket.

My mistake. You're correct. The capacitor is an EMI/RFI suppression
capacitor to reduce conducted electric motor noise in the AC wiring. I
couldn't tell from the original photo what the remains of the
capacitor were used for. I also failed to notice the real motor start
capacitor in the lower right of your original photo:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DfgedkfM7euUvgo28
Let's say that I was distracted by the clean workbench and high end
bicycles.
My fuse blew even after I had turned off the dryer (power plug still plugged in). I concluded that this capacitor had a shorcut so I removed the side panel and I found this. Also checked the heater and that was not looking good either although I don't think this caused the fuse to blow but I will replace it anyway. I'm open for better suggestions.

I wish I had a better theory. The problem is finding an explanation
for both the shorted capacitor and the melted heater element. The
heater is after the capacitor in the circuit. Therefore a shorted
capacitor would not cause the heater to melt. Most likely, a shorted
capacitor would blow a fuse or thermal breaker, leaving the heater
untouched. Similarly, either an open or shorted heater element would
not cause the capacitor to fail. The only explanation I can contrive
is that the heater and the capacitor failed because of unrelated and
unconnected faults.

My guess(tm) is the heater element failed because whatever electronics
control its temperature did something wrong. I have no idea what that
might be without a schematic.

My guess(tm) is the EMI/RFI capacitor failed because of a power line
high voltage spike or dielectric breakdown due to overheating. If the
capacitor is fairly close to the failed heating elements, that might
be a connection. What worries me is that replacing both the capacitor
and heater element might not be the cause of their failure, and that
the original cause for having both the capacitor and heater element
fail, is still lurking in the dryer. If you have a multimeter, and
with the dryer unplugged, you might want to check for a short across
the 240VAC line. (That's easier than tripping the circuit breaker).

I was unable to find a service manual, wiring diagram, or schematic
online for the TWI-180 model. In the USA, there is usually a printed
wiring diagram provided somewhere inside the dryer. Usually, it's in
a plastic envelope taped to the inside of a rear or side panel. If
you find the wiring diagram inside the dryer, please scan it and post
it.
Miele TWI 180 WP Eco & Steam WiFiConn@ct
https://www.mieleusa.com/e/t1-heat-pump-tumble-dryer-twi-180-wp-eco-and-steam-wificonn-ct-lotus-white-10666300-p
Operating instructions:
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1360239/Miele-Twi-180-Wp.html

Good luck and please monitor the temperature when you first turn it
on.
--
Jeff Liebermann
PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558



Jeff to clear things up my dryer is a Siemens WTXL722NL05 not a Miele (that is my washer) and a circuit breaker in my electrical system blew not a fuse in the the dryer. I just reset that one after unplugging the dryer. As for the heater they are known for failing after some times. This dryer is about 10 year old. Sorry for the misunderstanding because of my bad English.

Lou
  #36  
Old May 19th 21, 06:48 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
John B.[_3_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 5,697
Default Weights of my bikes

On Tue, 18 May 2021 16:38:33 -0700, Jeff Liebermann
wrote:

On Tue, 18 May 2021 08:16:38 -0700 (PDT), Tom Kunich
wrote:

Titanium in most cases doesn't get anywhere near the required
stress limits to fatigue since it is so damned strong to begin
with. This is why I said that if the Ti frameset doesn't fail
in the first month or so it will last virtually forever.


"The Fatigue of Titanium and Titanium Alloys"
http://www.metalspiping.com/the-fatigue-of-titanium-and-titanium-alloys.html
"Fatigue life tells us how long a titanium component survives at a
particular stress, while fatigue strength is the maximum stress a
titanium component endures without occurrence of fatigue cracks after
a large numbers of cycles, such as 10^8."

You'll find that if you stress titanium enough times (such as 10^8
times), it will crack. If you attach a few strain gauges to the
various tubes of a titanium frame, and use a data logger to count the
number of stress cycles, you might find that 10^8 cycles (100,000,000
cycles) arrives fairly soon, especially when every bump in the road is
considered a stress cycle.

Hmmm... I could probably guestimate the Ti frame life. A 700c wheel
is very close to 2 meters circumference. In 1 km, that's 500 wheel
revolutions. Pulling a number out of my hat, I would guess(tm) about
1 stress cycle per revolution, or 500 bumps per km. 10^8 bumps would
require riding:
1*10^8 bumps / 500 bumps/km = 200,000 km
At 100 km/week, that would take:
200,000km / 100km/week = 2,000 weeks
2,000 weeks / 52 weeks/year = 38 years
of riding before your titanium frame falls apart. I expected less,
but 38 years seems acceptable. If you want a better number, attach on
the strain gauges and provide a number for how many bumps per km your
experience while riding.


http://www.metalspiping.com/the-fati...um-alloys.html
The point that you are missing in your calculation is the severity of
the stress imposed. At a stress of 900 MPa (130,533.96 psi) the
titanium sample broke after a bit less then 10^4 cycles and at a
stress of 600 MPa (87,022 psi) it required ~10^7 cycles.

Another point is that the strength and fatigue failure of titanium
varies greatly depending on the alloy. the numbers above are obviously
for an alloy of titanium but pure titanium fails as low as 275 MPa
(39,885 psi) for 10^7 cycles in the annealed condition and as cold
rolled at 300 MPa (43,511 psi) for 10^7 cycles.

So, if a titanium alloy you may be able to hit 10,000,000 bumps at a
force of 87,022 psi before the bicycle breaks :-)
--
Cheers,

John B.

  #37  
Old May 19th 21, 08:18 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
James[_8_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 6,153
Default Weights of my bikes

On 18/5/21 11:38 pm, Lou Holtman wrote:
Op dinsdag 18 mei 2021 om 04:53:45 UTC+2 schreef James:
On 18/5/21 10:22 am, jbeattie wrote:


BTW, your garage operating room is again impressive. I wouldn't know
how to work in such a clean, well organized and lighted space. It
would be disorienting. I'm acclimated to the dim, industrial
revolution feel of my garage and basement shop.

That's a garage? I thought it was Lou's kitchen!

--
JS


At the moment it is the repair shop of my dryer:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/DfgedkfM7euUvgo28

Lou, waiting for parts.


Our dryer looks remarkably less complicated.

https://www.hillshome.com.au/our-pro...t-clothesline/

--
JS
  #38  
Old May 19th 21, 08:29 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Ade
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 5
Default Weights of my bikes

On 18/05/2021 13:56, Lou Holtman wrote:

In my case that was about 4 years, not really enough.

My suspicion is that very few bikes get ridden 10,000 miles. They either
get ridden occasionally or replaced regularly. It is probably cheaper to
give lifetime guarantees and quote fantasy figures for fatigue cycles,
rather than engineer light aluminium frames that do last a lifetime


Every road bike I have/had has or will be ridden 10000 miles/16000 km.


Do you think that you are average, representative of the average?

Also, do your aluminium bike frames break, fatigue cracks close to the
bottom bracket, have I just been unlucky?

  #39  
Old May 19th 21, 08:40 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
John B.[_3_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 5,697
Default Weights of my bikes

On Wed, 19 May 2021 17:18:06 +1000, James
wrote:

On 18/5/21 11:38 pm, Lou Holtman wrote:
Op dinsdag 18 mei 2021 om 04:53:45 UTC+2 schreef James:
On 18/5/21 10:22 am, jbeattie wrote:


BTW, your garage operating room is again impressive. I wouldn't know
how to work in such a clean, well organized and lighted space. It
would be disorienting. I'm acclimated to the dim, industrial
revolution feel of my garage and basement shop.
That's a garage? I thought it was Lou's kitchen!

--
JS


At the moment it is the repair shop of my dryer:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/DfgedkfM7euUvgo28

Lou, waiting for parts.


Our dryer looks remarkably less complicated.

https://www.hillshome.com.au/our-pro...t-clothesline/


Ah, but in the U.S. it is against the law to sun dry your washing in
many places. There are even groups dedicated to working toward laws
that ensure your right to hang your laundry on a "cloths line".
https://thegoodhuman.com/line-drying-clothes-illegal/
--
Cheers,

John B.

  #40  
Old May 19th 21, 02:23 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Sepp Ruf
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 454
Default Weights of my bikes

Lou Holtman wrote:
Op dinsdag 18 mei 2021 om 17:05:44 UTC+2 schreef jbeattie:


With off the shelf parts 2014 and a heavy saddle:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/N8frpRqH5fuj2tuA6
https://photos.app.goo.gl/PMxriEU7B8VVnMieA Still my climbing bike,

According to those here you are taking your life in your hands with a
fatigue prone titanium bike that weighs in under 15 lbs.

Who said that? Moreover, Lou's Ti Moots gravel bike probably comes in
closer to 18lbs, assuming he has some reasonably fat tires on it. His
15lb bike is a Canyon CF road bike.

What people said is NOT that modern Ti is failure prone but that it is
not immune from failure as you said. Like any other material, it can
fail for a number of reasons -- and failures can occur after infancy. I
do not know where Ti stands in terms of failure rate compared to
aluminum, steel and CF, but I would assume well made Ti frames have a
lower failure rate than steel or aluminum because of the character of
the metals and their fatigue limits. Ti is a nice material, and I don't
think anyone disputes that here.


My Ti Moots is 9.6 kg with 37 mm gravel tires and 9.3 kg with 32 mm
Continental GP 5000 road tires. My Aeroad is 7.25 kg. All weights
including pedals and 2 bottle cages.


We all applaud how well you take care of your bicycles. Just don't be
mislead buying a new "9 kg" rated Miele washing machine for it. They don't
make them like they used to any more. It's like they had a
Brussels-Cupertino joint committee dumb down everything to idiot toddler
playground safety level, get rid of any remaining manual flight controls,
and worst, of real metal doors.
 




Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Anyone do weights? Kaiser Sose UK 8 January 11th 07 12:19 PM
Uni Weights... irvinegr Unicycling 13 January 20th 06 01:15 PM
hub weights nickjb Unicycling 5 July 20th 04 11:10 PM
Difference in weights. Simon Mason UK 37 June 7th 04 09:10 AM
Hub and Cranks weights... pluto Unicycling 11 April 15th 04 08:05 PM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 01:48 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004-2024 CycleBanter.com.
The comments are property of their posters.