Mavic CXP 33 Annoying Click, Click...

Mavic CXP 33 rim in fairly new condition, but suddenly a click each
revolution. I've disassembled the wheel & am considering popping out all the
basket-style eyelets until I find the cause...but I thought I'd ask first:
Common problem? It's maddening because the sound is amplified through the
rim & you can't tell where the problem is. Maybe a bit of flux came loose?
All baskets look OK.
Thanks, Jim

Jim wrote:
Mavic CXP 33 rim in fairly new condition, but suddenly a click each
revolution. I've disassembled the wheel & am considering popping out all the
basket-style eyelets until I find the cause...but I thought I'd ask first:
Common problem? It's maddening because the sound is amplified through the
rim & you can't tell where the problem is. Maybe a bit of flux came loose?
All baskets look OK.
Thanks, Jim

Hi Jim,
I built up a pair of wheels about a year ago. The rims were Open
Pro Ceramic. They cost $105 a piece. I built the first wheel
with no problems. When I started on the second wheel I noticed
something clicking when I picked up the rim and shook it a little.
After a few minutes of shaking, I heard something slide around about a
quarter of the rim.
So, I thought, hmmm, maybe I can get this to the valve hole. An
hour later I pulled out a piece of welding slag that measured
~20x6x2mm. I lucked out in that I found this before I built the
wheel. I was a little ****ed. You'd figure that for $105/rim
there would be better quality control. I later had an extended
discussion about this problem with the supplier. He is a highly
respected wheelbuilder. He told me that rims would likely cost
$300/rim to guarantee that there would be no problems like I
experienced.

I am going to guess that you are experiencing the exact same problem.
This is pretty well known with Mavic rims. The lesson that I
learned is that I will never build another Mavic without
shaking_the_**** out of it before I start building. If there is a
rattle, it's going back to the vendor. I was lucky and got my piece
'o slag to the valve hole and got it removed. That's my experience.

In article
.com,
"spin156" wrote:

Jim wrote:
Mavic CXP 33 rim in fairly new condition, but suddenly a click each
revolution. I've disassembled the wheel & am considering popping out all the
basket-style eyelets until I find the cause...but I thought I'd ask first:
Common problem? It's maddening because the sound is amplified through the
rim & you can't tell where the problem is. Maybe a bit of flux came loose?
All baskets look OK.
Thanks, Jim

Hi Jim,
I built up a pair of wheels about a year ago. The rims were Open
Pro Ceramic. They cost $105 a piece. I built the first wheel
with no problems. When I started on the second wheel I noticed
something clicking when I picked up the rim and shook it a little.
After a few minutes of shaking, I heard something slide around about a
quarter of the rim.
So, I thought, hmmm, maybe I can get this to the valve hole. An
hour later I pulled out a piece of welding slag that measured
~20x6x2mm. I lucked out in that I found this before I built the
wheel. I was a little ****ed. You'd figure that for $105/rim
there would be better quality control. I later had an extended
discussion about this problem with the supplier. He is a highly
respected wheelbuilder. He told me that rims would likely cost
$300/rim to guarantee that there would be no problems like I
experienced.

I am going to guess that you are experiencing the exact same problem.
This is pretty well known with Mavic rims. The lesson that I
learned is that I will never build another Mavic without
shaking_the_**** out of it before I start building. If there is a
rattle, it's going back to the vendor. I was lucky and got my piece
'o slag to the valve hole and got it removed. That's my experience.

and, the weld is completely unnecessary.

--
Michael Press

Jim Wrote:
Mavic CXP 33 rim in fairly new condition, but suddenly a click each
revolution. I've disassembled the wheel & am considering popping out
all the
basket-style eyelets until I find the cause...but I thought I'd ask
first:
Common problem? It's maddening because the sound is amplified through
the
rim & you can't tell where the problem is. Maybe a bit of flux came
loose?
All baskets look OK.
Thanks, Jim
Many rims have some bit(s) of metal inside that will click if not
removed. When both rim walls close up the spoke holes like CXP-33,
OpenPro, A719, etc. it makes it harder to get out.
Once the CXP-33 is built, the baskets that hold in the rim hole
inserts, are not needed. Removing them would be OK but challenging.
It would likely make the removing the metal bit(s) easier.


--
daveornee

"Jim" wrote in message
news:jH5pf.763$_L5.561@fed1read06...
Mavic CXP 33 rim in fairly new condition, but suddenly a click each
revolution. I've disassembled the wheel & am considering popping out all
the
basket-style eyelets until I find the cause...but I thought I'd ask first:
Common problem? It's maddening because the sound is amplified through the
rim & you can't tell where the problem is. Maybe a bit of flux came loose?
All baskets look OK.
Thanks, Jim



Some mystery clicks in rear wheels are grit where the spokes cross. They
deflect a bit at each revolution and tick there, which you hear amplified
through the rim. Floss them out with some light string or cloth before you
try anything else too exotic. I have seen wheels where the owner had to
keep the crosses lubed to keep them quiet!

Jeffrey

Jim wrote:
Mavic CXP 33 rim in fairly new condition, but suddenly a click each
revolution. I've disassembled the wheel & am considering popping out all the
basket-style eyelets until I find the cause...but I thought I'd ask first:
Common problem? It's maddening because the sound is amplified through the
rim & you can't tell where the problem is. Maybe a bit of flux came loose?
All baskets look OK.
Thanks, Jim

Common on OpenPro, not on CXP-33. 'May' be the thingy that holds the
rim together for the completely unnecessary weld. A wee bit of lindseed
oil on each nipple where it enters the rim, an OVH of the hub in case
you have 'bearing flop', the balls smacking each other for lack of
grease(shimano hub?), also check the drive side tension...should be 100
kgf...things I would check.

I had a set of Mavic Open Pros where the rear wheel was making a clicking
noise that was driving me crazy. I thought it was coming from the hub or
the spokes but my LBS took the time to hunt down the cause. They told me it
was coming from a device inserted into the rim to hold the rim together for
welding at the factory. This insert broke loose and was sliding around the
inside of the dual wall rim - harmless except for making the constant
clicking. They suggested that I just live with the noise, or if I really
wanted to do something about it, I can try to inject silicone through the
spoke holes to seal the insert in place and keep it from sliding around. I
never got around to doing that before I sold those wheels.



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Allan wrote:
I had a set of Mavic Open Pros where the rear wheel was making a clicking
noise that was driving me crazy. I thought it was coming from the hub or
the spokes but my LBS took the time to hunt down the cause. They told me it
was coming from a device inserted into the rim to hold the rim together for
welding at the factory. This insert broke loose and was sliding around the
inside of the dual wall rim - harmless except for making the constant
clicking. They suggested that I just live with the noise, or if I really
wanted to do something about it, I can try to inject silicone through the
spoke holes to seal the insert in place and keep it from sliding around. I
never got around to doing that before I sold those wheels.

Double eyelet so this won't work. Ya can either smack the area with a
punch or drill a teeny hole and put Fastac in there...



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I had clicking on an Open Pro rear wheel, the only noisy one of several
that I built. The sound was faint but annoying. Putting a tiny drop
of oil (Tri-Flow) in each eyelet around the spoke nipple silenced it.

"Mike Yankee" wrote:
I had clicking on an Open Pro rear wheel, the only noisy one of several
that I built. The sound was faint but annoying. Putting a tiny drop
of oil (Tri-Flow) in each eyelet around the spoke nipple silenced it.

I have the same situation with my OpenPro