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On 2017-01-04 10:28, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Wed, 4 Jan 2017 12:29:31 -0500, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 1/3/2017 11:23 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote: Contact cement. It's a neoprene rubber based goo that remains fairly flexible if applied in a very thin layer. Smear some on both the tire and the patch, let air dry for at least 10 minutes (longer is better), and stick together with a little compression pressure. I've used a roller, two blocks of wood and a C-clamp, and beating on the sandwich with a hammer. They all work. I generally change tubes on the road, then patch the leaking tube at home. Same here. However, I don't ride enough to get very many flats. The bane of my life are leaking tubes. Even brand new tubes (Nashbar's cheapest) tend to leak. I've done a bubble test and usually find pin holes at random location. It's not worth the effort doing the full patch job for a pin hole, so I just stretch the tube so I can see the hole, fill it with rubber cement, wipe off the excess, and let it dry. That works, until a new pinhole appears. Then, there are the leaky tire valves, usually because I've lost the caps and the valve is full of dirt. Sigh. Try these: https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Thorn.../dp/B000BMT2TM I never looked back. Reviews are mixed and sometimes they do have poor valve attachment. Also, some are thick only towards the running surface and that is less protecting than thick all around. So ask before buying in order to be able to return if not as promised. As Forest Gump said, "Life is like a box of chocolates, you never know what you gonna get". The thicker a tube the better it usually is. [...] -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
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