Cement for Rubber?

The bike rack on my wife's car has its jaws lined with strips of rubber
-- pretty much inner tube rubber. The cement holding them in place came
loose early one. I've tried to re-cement them using contact cement, but
that didn't hold well. Does anyone know what's a good way to get rubber
to stick to painted steel?

--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel"

On Sep 23, 10:56*am, Rocket J Squirrel
wrote:
The bike rack on my wife's car has its jaws lined with strips of rubber
-- pretty much inner tube rubber. The cement holding them in place came
loose early one. I've tried to re-cement them using contact cement, but
that didn't hold well. Does anyone know what's a good way to get rubber
to stick to painted steel?

--

Two part epoxy. It'll stick anything to anything.

On 9/23/2010 11:56 AM, Rocket J Squirrel wrote:
The bike rack on my wife's car has its jaws lined with strips of rubber
-- pretty much inner tube rubber. The cement holding them in place came
loose early one. I've tried to re-cement them using contact cement, but
that didn't hold well. Does anyone know what's a good way to get rubber
to stick to painted steel?


I've had some luck gluing difficult surfaces with polyurethane glue
(e.g. "Gorilla Glue"), beware, it does expand/foam, so can drip. In the
past, I've used a product called "Plio-bond", available at the hardware
store, which seemed particularly good at gluing rubber to smooth
surfaces (kind of like industrial rubber cement), don't know if it's
still around. An inelegant, but often workable solution, is to use
"double sticky" tape, particularly the compressible stuff. Silicone
sometimes also works on smooth surfaces, don't know about rubber.

On 9/23/2010 12:23 PM, landotter wrote:
On Sep 23, 10:56 am, Rocket J Squirrel
wrote:
The bike rack on my wife's car has its jaws lined with strips of rubber
-- pretty much inner tube rubber. The cement holding them in place came
loose early one. I've tried to re-cement them using contact cement, but
that didn't hold well. Does anyone know what's a good way to get rubber
to stick to painted steel?

--

Two part epoxy. It'll stick anything to anything.

It'll stick to many things, but not all. The problem with epoxy as an
adhesive is that it's fairly brittle and doesn't stick well to many
smooth surfaces. Urethane glues seem to adhere better and retain some flex.

Rocket J Squirrel wrote:
The bike rack on my wife's car has its jaws lined with strips of rubber
-- pretty much inner tube rubber. The cement holding them in place came
loose early one. I've tried to re-cement them using contact cement, but
that didn't hold well. Does anyone know what's a good way to get rubber
to stick to painted steel?

Tubular cement if you have it handy, otherwise 3M FasTack
auto body trim adhesive is perfect for that application.


--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On Thu, 23 Sep 2010 15:56:09 +0000 (UTC), Rocket J Squirrel
wrote:

The bike rack on my wife's car has its jaws lined with strips of rubber
-- pretty much inner tube rubber. The cement holding them in place came
loose early one. I've tried to re-cement them using contact cement, but
that didn't hold well. Does anyone know what's a good way to get rubber
to stick to painted steel?

Try the contact cement again. However, this time, clean both parts
with trichloroethylene, disk brake cleaner, MEK, or some other noxious
and hazaradous degreaser/solvent. If possible, rough the surface of
the painted steel part to the point where it's dull, but does not
destroy the paint (or it will rust). Smear a THIN layer of contact
cement on BOTH parts. If it doesn't run smooth and thin, add some
solvent to the bottle, mix, and try again. Don't do this in the sun.
Wait at least 5 minutes for the solvent to evaporate and for the
smeared glue surface to look dull. Then, wait even longer. Too soon
is what kills most contact cement glue joints. Stick the parts
together and apply holding pressure with a clamp. If it's round, wrap
it with something and use a hose clamp or pipe strap to compress.

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

"AMuzi" wrote in message
...
Rocket J Squirrel wrote:
The bike rack on my wife's car has its jaws lined with strips of
rubber -- pretty much inner tube rubber. The cement holding them in
place came loose early one. I've tried to re-cement them using
contact cement, but that didn't hold well. Does anyone know what's a
good way to get rubber to stick to painted steel?

Tubular cement if you have it handy, otherwise 3M FasTack auto body
trim adhesive is perfect for that application.


--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

I would go with the 3M adhesive. Their VHB stuff will stick to just
about anything, but Mcmaster only has the Grey. Which would probably
work.
its tensile strength is about 100lb/in. Clean and wipe the surface to be
bonded with alcohol to prepare it.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#3m-vhb-tape/=8z39ju


Cheers

On 9/23/2010 1:52 PM, AMuzi wrote:
Rocket J Squirrel wrote:
The bike rack on my wife's car has its jaws lined with strips of
rubber -- pretty much inner tube rubber. The cement holding them in
place came loose early one. I've tried to re-cement them using contact
cement, but that didn't hold well. Does anyone know what's a good way
to get rubber to stick to painted steel?

Tubular cement if you have it handy, otherwise 3M FasTack auto body trim
adhesive is perfect for that application.

That's what a frame painter thought for adhering my head badge. It fell
off and was lost forever.

Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Thu, 23 Sep 2010 15:56:09 +0000 (UTC), Rocket J Squirrel
wrote:

The bike rack on my wife's car has its jaws lined with strips of rubber
-- pretty much inner tube rubber. The cement holding them in place came
loose early one. I've tried to re-cement them using contact cement, but
that didn't hold well. Does anyone know what's a good way to get rubber
to stick to painted steel?

Try the contact cement again. However, this time, clean both parts
with trichloroethylene, disk brake cleaner, MEK, or some other noxious
and hazaradous degreaser/solvent. If possible, rough the surface of
the painted steel part to the point where it's dull, but does not
destroy the paint (or it will rust). Smear a THIN layer of contact
cement on BOTH parts. If it doesn't run smooth and thin, add some
solvent to the bottle, mix, and try again. Don't do this in the sun.
Wait at least 5 minutes for the solvent to evaporate and for the
smeared glue surface to look dull. Then, wait even longer. Too soon
is what kills most contact cement glue joints. Stick the parts
together and apply holding pressure with a clamp. If it's round, wrap
it with something and use a hose clamp or pipe strap to compress.


Sounds very much like the directions from 3M body trim adhesive:
http://www.3m.com/product/informatio...-Adhesive.html

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Peter Cole wrote:
On 9/23/2010 1:52 PM, AMuzi wrote:
Rocket J Squirrel wrote:
The bike rack on my wife's car has its jaws lined with strips of
rubber -- pretty much inner tube rubber. The cement holding them in
place came loose early one. I've tried to re-cement them using contact
cement, but that didn't hold well. Does anyone know what's a good way
to get rubber to stick to painted steel?

Tubular cement if you have it handy, otherwise 3M FasTack auto body trim
adhesive is perfect for that application.

That's what a frame painter thought for adhering my head badge. It fell
off and was lost forever.

Sad story, but the trim on my MGB went on, after I
resprayed, with 3M adhesive in 1976 and was fine when I
wrecked the car in 1985.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971