Stronger rubber cement?

Rema's results are impressive a knockout over Bell n as a unit glue in patch consistent in glue on stay doahn leak

There are sidewall patches or were.

The NAPA 2 can wudbe a stronger cement but for thicker patches. Acetone and ? content higher for production in a 'shop' setting. Cut's thru dirt.

Vinyl works as vinyl like rubber in DS's post: stricktly requires a vinyl cement ...H66..see NRS.

When I looked a super cement, was involved with patching Spec self sealing tube at $$, went to view n not buy aerospace grade in Henkel


https://goo.gl/DvhszR

Look for yourself.

Take a look at 3M. 3M does not have

a cement for rejoining boot soles..I asked.

Begged

On 04/01/17 01:04, Joerg wrote:
Gentlemen,

Is there something stronger than the usual rubber cement in the patch
kits? Ideally something that won't dry out so fast or where multiple
cheap small tubes are available.

The reason is that I sometimes have larger holes from side wall
blow-outs. Not inch-long gashes but one or two tenths of an inch long.
The tubes I use are super thick and, therefore, expensive. $15-20 each
and that's not something to be thrown out lightly. Instead of the li'l
REMA patches I need to use thicker rubber from an older sacrified tube
but this has to be vulcanized/cemented really well.

UK, but must be available all over

http://www.tyre-equipment.co.uk/acat...r-Patches.html

Go up to 180mmx95mm and are less than a UKP per patch.

The 30mm patches are 13 squids per 100! Surely, surely even Joerg can't
get through that amount that fast!

A boot sole has flexure like a tire sidewall ...with surface area x forces seriously larger than on a tire plug.

Per John B.:
when I open a sealed tube, in the kit on the bike, I
replace it with another sealed one as find the glue has dried up is
not quite so much of a catastrophe at home

Ever since I opened a virgin, unopened tube (at home, thankfully) and
found it had dried up, I write the purchase date on each tube and carry
at least two unopened tubes in my patch kit.

Probably wretched excess, since I always carry at least one spare inner
tube - and sometimes two...
--
Pete Cresswell

On Tuesday, January 3, 2017 at 5:04:38 PM UTC-8, Joerg wrote:
Gentlemen,

Is there something stronger than the usual rubber cement in the patch
kits? Ideally something that won't dry out so fast or where multiple
cheap small tubes are available.

The reason is that I sometimes have larger holes from side wall
blow-outs. Not inch-long gashes but one or two tenths of an inch long.
The tubes I use are super thick and, therefore, expensive. $15-20 each
and that's not something to be thrown out lightly. Instead of the li'l
REMA patches I need to use thicker rubber from an older sacrified tube
but this has to be vulcanized/cemented really well.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

Jeorg, considering the amount and extent of flats that you get perhaps you should observe Tosspot's recommendations:

http://www.tyre-equipment.co.uk/acat...-PSF_Plus.html

On 1/3/2017 8:21 PM, John B. wrote:
On Tue, 03 Jan 2017 17:04:40 -0800, Joerg
wrote:

Gentlemen,

Is there something stronger than the usual rubber cement in the patch
kits? Ideally something that won't dry out so fast or where multiple
cheap small tubes are available.

The reason is that I sometimes have larger holes from side wall
blow-outs. Not inch-long gashes but one or two tenths of an inch long.
The tubes I use are super thick and, therefore, expensive. $15-20 each
and that's not something to be thrown out lightly. Instead of the li'l
REMA patches I need to use thicker rubber from an older sacrified tube
but this has to be vulcanized/cemented really well.

My LBS usually has small sealed tubes of glue. When I see them I buy
four or five and when I open a sealed tube, in the kit on the bike, I
replace it with another sealed one as find the glue has dried up is
not quite so much of a catastrophe at home :-)

Or you might try contact cement what I suspect is what is in the usual
tire patching kit.

By the way, "vulcanizing" implies the use of heat, and sulphur, and I
remember when I was in high school working at a local gas station we
had a clamp that had a sort of cup as part of it. We glued the patch
on than clamped it and filled the cup with gasoline and lit it. When
everything had cooled down the patch seemed to be a part of the tube,
not something glued on.
See: http://tinyurl.com/jdvfgbu for a modern electrical device to do
the same thing.


The chemistry of hot and cold vulcanizing materials is
slightly different but either system can give good results.
Cold patch cement doesn't work with hot patch systems for
example.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

John B. wrote:
:On Wed, 4 Jan 2017 02:47:50 +0000 (UTC), David Scheidt
wrote:

:John B. wrote:
::On Tue, 03 Jan 2017 17:04:40 -0800, Joerg
::wrote:
:
::Gentlemen,
::
::Is there something stronger than the usual rubber cement in the patch
::kits? Ideally something that won't dry out so fast or where multiple
::cheap small tubes are available.
::
::The reason is that I sometimes have larger holes from side wall
::blow-outs. Not inch-long gashes but one or two tenths of an inch long.
::The tubes I use are super thick and, therefore, expensive. $15-20 each
::and that's not something to be thrown out lightly. Instead of the li'l
::REMA patches I need to use thicker rubber from an older sacrified tube
::but this has to be vulcanized/cemented really well.
:
::My LBS usually has small sealed tubes of glue. When I see them I buy
::four or five and when I open a sealed tube, in the kit on the bike, I
::replace it with another sealed one as find the glue has dried up is
::not quite so much of a catastrophe at home :-)
:
::Or you might try contact cement what I suspect is what is in the usual
::tire patching kit.
:
::By the way, "vulcanizing" implies the use of heat, and sulphur, and I
:
:Vulcanizing may have the connotation of involving heat, but it's a chemical
:reaction, which results in the sulphur in the rubber becoming
:crosslinked.

:It is a chemical reaction that occurs very slowly and incompletely
:without heat. Try mixing raw latex with powdered sulphur if you don't
:believe it.

Yes, but fortunately the world has smart chemists who have invented
processes that work better than sulphur and heat do. Vulcanizing
accelerators are used in pretty much every rubber production process,
because it gives better results, is faster, and requires less energy.


--
sig 26

On Wednesday, January 4, 2017 at 9:39:07 AM UTC-5, AMuzi wrote:
On 1/3/2017 8:21 PM, John B. wrote:
On Tue, 03 Jan 2017 17:04:40 -0800, Joerg
wrote:

Gentlemen,

Is there something stronger than the usual rubber cement in the patch
kits? Ideally something that won't dry out so fast or where multiple
cheap small tubes are available.

The reason is that I sometimes have larger holes from side wall
blow-outs. Not inch-long gashes but one or two tenths of an inch long.
The tubes I use are super thick and, therefore, expensive. $15-20 each
and that's not something to be thrown out lightly. Instead of the li'l
REMA patches I need to use thicker rubber from an older sacrified tube
but this has to be vulcanized/cemented really well.

My LBS usually has small sealed tubes of glue. When I see them I buy
four or five and when I open a sealed tube, in the kit on the bike, I
replace it with another sealed one as find the glue has dried up is
not quite so much of a catastrophe at home :-)

Or you might try contact cement what I suspect is what is in the usual
tire patching kit.

By the way, "vulcanizing" implies the use of heat, and sulphur, and I
remember when I was in high school working at a local gas station we
had a clamp that had a sort of cup as part of it. We glued the patch
on than clamped it and filled the cup with gasoline and lit it. When
everything had cooled down the patch seemed to be a part of the tube,
not something glued on.
See: http://tinyurl.com/jdvfgbu for a modern electrical device to do
the same thing.


The chemistry of hot and cold vulcanizing materials is
slightly different but either system can give good results.
Cold patch cement doesn't work with hot patch systems for
example.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

hot patch with new rubber is boot cement. Including water soluble hot patch as per NB &*)()$$#1234=0 !

On Wednesday, January 4, 2017 at 9:50:25 AM UTC-5, David Scheidt wrote:
John B. wrote:
:On Wed, 4 Jan 2017 02:47:50 +0000 (UTC), David Scheidt
wrote:

:John B. wrote:
::On Tue, 03 Jan 2017 17:04:40 -0800, Joerg
::wrote:
:
::Gentlemen,
::
::Is there something stronger than the usual rubber cement in the patch
::kits? Ideally something that won't dry out so fast or where multiple
::cheap small tubes are available.
::
::The reason is that I sometimes have larger holes from side wall
::blow-outs. Not inch-long gashes but one or two tenths of an inch long.
::The tubes I use are super thick and, therefore, expensive. $15-20 each
::and that's not something to be thrown out lightly. Instead of the li'l
::REMA patches I need to use thicker rubber from an older sacrified tube
::but this has to be vulcanized/cemented really well.
:
::My LBS usually has small sealed tubes of glue. When I see them I buy
::four or five and when I open a sealed tube, in the kit on the bike, I
::replace it with another sealed one as find the glue has dried up is
::not quite so much of a catastrophe at home :-)
:
::Or you might try contact cement what I suspect is what is in the usual
::tire patching kit.
:
::By the way, "vulcanizing" implies the use of heat, and sulphur, and I
:
:Vulcanizing may have the connotation of involving heat, but it's a chemical
:reaction, which results in the sulphur in the rubber becoming
:crosslinked.

:It is a chemical reaction that occurs very slowly and incompletely
:without heat. Try mixing raw latex with powdered sulphur if you don't
:believe it.

Yes, but fortunately the world has smart chemists who have invented
processes that work better than sulphur and heat do. Vulcanizing
accelerators are used in pretty much every rubber production process,
because it gives better results, is faster, and requires less energy.


--
sig 26

are acetone n MEK qualifying as accelerators ? or is there another name category ?

On Wednesday, January 4, 2017 at 8:59:40 AM UTC-5, (PeteCresswell) wrote:
Per John B.:
when I open a sealed tube, in the kit on the bike, I
replace it with another sealed one as find the glue has dried up is
not quite so much of a catastrophe at home

Ever since I opened a virgin, unopened tube (at home, thankfully) and
found it had dried up, I write the purchase date on each tube and carry
at least two unopened tubes in my patch kit.

Probably wretched excess, since I always carry at least one spare inner
tube - and sometimes two...
--
Pete Cresswell

Pete, better fast than mugged

or beaned with a full beer can