Pulling squre taper cranks, DIY

Is there any way to pull crank arms from a square taper bb without a crank
puller? I know it's cheap, but I hate buying tools I'll use only once.

Thanks.

Gone Fishin' wrote:
Is there any way to pull crank arms from a square taper bb without a crank
puller? I know it's cheap, but I hate buying tools I'll use only once.

Thanks.

Buy the (cheap) crank puller; it will pay for itself many times over the
first time you pull your cranks to work on (or replace) your bottom bracket.

(The alternative is paying about twice as much up front for an
automotive gear puller, then buying a new crankset anyway after gouging
the crap out your cranks and possibly bending one or more arms on the
spider.)

Gone Fishin' wrote:

Is there any way to pull crank arms from a square taper bb without a crank
puller?

Yes, but only if you intend to throw away the cranks afterwards.

I know it's cheap, but I hate buying tools I'll use only once.

Crank extractors are cheaper than new cranks.

Self-extracting crank bolts might be cheaper than the shop tool, if
that helps.

It sounds like you might be a good candidate for one-piece cranks, if
decent bikes still came with them. Those are cheap, effective, very
low-maintenance, and can be serviced with a Crescent wrench or even
Channellock pliers. The pre-1979 Schwinn Super Sport was probably the
last high-quality sporting road bike to use one-piece cranks,
though.

Chalo

On Sep 2, 10:17*pm, Gone Fishin' wrote:
Is there any way to pull crank arms from a square taper bb without a crank
puller? I know it's cheap, but I hate buying tools I'll use only once.


If it has to be non-destructive you're pretty much stuck with
a proper crank puller.

I've tried one of those tie-rod seperators (we just called
'em pickle forks) which does a beautiful job of marring
both the crank and the bottom-bracket cup, but will, in
fact, seperate the bits.

"Gone Fishin'" wrote in message
...
Is there any way to pull crank arms from a square taper bb without a
crank
puller? I know it's cheap, but I hate buying tools I'll use only once.

Thanks.

If you only need the crank arms removed from the axle, a bike shop will
probably charge you quite a bit less than the cost of the tool. However,
if you're going to keep the bike around for a while, especially if you
ride in the rain, you'll need to be pulling the cranks off for routine
maintenance probably once a year and having your own crank puller might
make sense.

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReactionBicycles.com

Another alternative is to use the flanged Allen bolt/threaded cap
setup modern cranks now come with. You should be able to drive the
crank off with an Allen wrench, if you are careful.

On Sep 2, 9:16*pm, JG wrote:
Another alternative is to use the flanged Allen bolt/threaded cap
setup modern cranks now come with. *You should be able to drive the
crank off with an Allen wrench, if you are careful.

And I meant to add: you can keep them permanently mounted as a
replacment for the ordinary bolts, and always have them available.

On Sep 2, 10:17*pm, Gone Fishin' wrote:
Is there any way to pull crank arms from a square taper bb without a crank
puller? I know it's cheap, but I hate buying tools I'll use only once.

Thanks.

just buy a new bike when you used up your old one then

Gone Fishin' wrote:
Is there any way to pull crank arms from a square taper bb without a crank
puller? I know it's cheap, but I hate buying tools I'll use only once.

Nondestructively? No.
Buy or borrow the puller or have them removed.
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On Wed, 2 Sep 2009 19:17:46 -0700, Gone Fishin' wrote:

Is there any way to pull crank arms from a square taper bb without a crank
puller? I know it's cheap, but I hate buying tools I'll use only once.

Thanks.

If you are willing to risk damage to the mounting faces of the arms, remove
the bolt on the left side and ride it around a bit; it may loosen, which
you should notice. When it does, stop, walk home, take the arm off, and
remove both bearing cups. You can then probably punch the axle out from
the right swith with a drift, having placed it on something that will
support it (I'd look for a good vice and a stack of large washers).