Pulling squre taper cranks, DIY

On Sep 2, 8:17*pm, Gone Fishin' wrote:
Is there any way to pull crank arms from a square taper bb without a crank
puller? I know it's cheap, but I hate buying tools I'll use only once.

Thanks.

Got a bike shop handly? If ya came into my shop
I'd pull 'em off for free. Takes about 3 minutes.

On 3 Sep, 03:17, Gone Fishin' wrote:
Is there any way to pull crank arms from a square taper bb without a crank
puller? I know it's cheap, but I hate buying tools I'll use only once.

So leave them alone.

On Sep 2, 10:17*pm, Gone Fishin' wrote:
Is there any way to pull crank arms from a square taper bb without a crank
puller? I know it's cheap, but I hate buying tools I'll use only once.

Thanks.

I think you should buy the tool, you can probably find it for less
than $15 or so. I think it's worth it to use the proper tools and
you'll be less likely to ruin your crank.

On Thu, 3 Sep 2009 07:02:06 -0700, Jobst Brandt wrote
(in article ):

Oh, and when the crank comes loose the square bore will be ruined.
Why do you want to pull off the crank anyway, if you believe this is a
one time event.

to replace with new ones.

On Sep 2, 7:17*pm, Gone Fishin' wrote:
Is there any way to pull crank arms from a square taper bb without a crank
puller? I know it's cheap, but I hate buying tools I'll use only once.

Thanks.

You'll use it more than once should you want to rebuild your bottom
bracket (or swap out the sealed cartridge unit).

-Tom

On 3 Sep, 17:28, Gone Fishin' wrote:
On Thu, 3 Sep 2009 07:02:06 -0700, Jobst Brandt wrote
(in article ):

Oh, and when the crank comes loose the square bore will be ruined.
Why do you want to pull off the crank anyway, if you believe this is a
one time event.

to replace with new ones.

If you make sure those new cranks come with a new axle and a new bike
frame attatched, then you dont need to buy the new (or old) tool.
Why change cranks?

Jobst Brandt wrote:
a shy person wrote anonymously:

Is there any way to pull crank arms from a square taper BB
without a crank puller? I know it's cheap, but I hate buying
tools I'll use only once.

Most cranks have no flat back side onto which a standard two hook
puller can be attached. If the threads are damaged beyond use,
then a two hook puller must be used, but it will damage the
crank... that must be replaced anyway for having no means of
extraction.

If you are willing to risk damage to the mounting faces of the
arms, remove the bolt on the left side and ride it around a bit;
it may loosen, which you should notice. When it does, stop, walk
home, take the arm off, and remove both bearing cups. You can
then probably punch the axle out from the right swith with a
drift, having placed it on something that will support it (I'd
look for a good vice and a stack of large washers).

Oh, and when the crank comes loose the square bore will be ruined.
Why do you want to pull off the crank anyway, if you believe this
is a one time event.

to replace with new ones.

I'm sorry, I suppose my question was insufficiently specific. What is
wrong with the cranks that are on the bicycle that requires them to be
removed? Specifically, why do you want to destructively remove your
cranks and install new ones.

Beyond that, you would still be better off with a crank puller
specific to your cranks because if you are going to install cranks,
you generally need to be able to pull them off again for various
reasons... such as changing or replacing chainrings.


what crank do you have where the chainrings can't be replace in situ???

On Sep 3, 2:12*pm, jim beam wrote:
Jobst Brandt wrote:
a shy person wrote anonymously:

Is there any way to pull crank arms from a square taper BB
without a crank puller? *I know it's cheap, but I hate buying
tools I'll use only once.

Most cranks have no flat back side onto which a standard two hook
puller can be attached. *If the threads are damaged beyond use,
then a two hook puller must be used, but it will damage the
crank... that must be replaced anyway for having no means of
extraction.

If you are willing to risk damage to the mounting faces of the
arms, remove the bolt on the left side and ride it around a bit;
it may loosen, which you should notice. *When it does, stop, walk
home, take the arm off, and remove both bearing cups. *You can
then probably punch the axle out from the right swith with a
drift, having placed it on something that will support it (I'd
look for a good vice and a stack of large washers).

Oh, and when the crank comes loose the square bore will be ruined.
Why do you want to pull off the crank anyway, if you believe this
is a one time event.

to replace with new ones.

I'm sorry, I suppose my question was insufficiently specific. *What is
wrong with the cranks that are on the bicycle that requires them to be
removed? *Specifically, why do you want to destructively remove your
cranks and install new ones.

Beyond that, you would still be better off with a crank puller
specific to your cranks because if you are going to install cranks,
you generally need to be able to pull them off again for various
reasons... such as changing or replacing chainrings.

what crank do you have where the chainrings can't be replace in situ???

the inner ring on any triple?

i suppose JB using a triple would be news.

I'm sorry, I suppose my question was insufficiently specific. What is
wrong with the cranks that are on the bicycle that requires them to be
removed?

Old chainrings 5 bolt. New chainrings 4 bolt.

Jobst Brandt wrote:
A shy person wrote anonymously:

Is there any way to pull crank arms from a square taper BB without a crank
puller? I know it's cheap, but I hate buying tools I'll use only once.

Most cranks have no flat back side onto which a standard two hook
puller can be attached. If the threads are damaged beyond use, then a
two hook puller must be used, but it will damage the crank... that
must be replaced anyway for having no means of extraction.

Jobst Brandt

I tried it once and by that time I had ruined the bracket cam and crank
sets. It is only a 10.00 tool and the effort it Saves is priceless. You
will need at least an adjustable wrench and a small metric socket set.
Even $20 on parts pays back very quickly.

Bill Baka