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#51
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Tubus Cosmo Rack = Expensive Crap for Posers
On Jun 5, 7:43*pm, Tºm Shermªn™ °_° ""twshermanREMOVE\"@THI
$southslope.net" wrote: On 6/5/2011 11:24 AM, SMS wrote: On 6/3/2011 3:13 PM, Coolmaine wrote: I cannot recommend the Cosmo. It is a poseur's rack, of little practical use. The makers charge a huge amount of money for it and don't even give you all the necessary fitting parts. It would probably be a good rack if it were bigger, in which case the clumsy angling of the lower rails might not matter, and if it came with enough fitting components and spring washers to keep it on the bike. As it is sold, I am decidedly unimpressed. "They" or "someone" should make the "perfect rack": [...] The perfect solution is tossing all your stuff behind the seat of your velomobile. The perfect solution to looking a right jerkoff on any road anywhere in the world: a "velomobile", furthermore painted in a silly exhibitionist's fluorescent pastel color. Yech. |
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#52
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Tubus Cosmo Rack = Expensive Crap for Posers
On Jun 5, 9:22*pm, Dan O wrote:
See, while my rack isn't heavily used, it isn't mollycoddled either, and it is used as a sacrificial item to protect an expensive bike. I clean the bike, a quick wipe, once a year; I'm not a compulsive waxer. So the rack will sooner rather than later become rusty if it is cromoly. Isn't the bike frame chrome-moly, too? Sure. For aesthetics I wanted a brazed, lugged, steel bike. I think it also rides better than those thick and very stiff ali pipes on my other bikes. But the rack is exposed, while the bike frame is in reality very difficult to get at to nick the paint. Anyway, for whatever reason, in practice the paint on my rack wears, and the paint on the bike lasts and lasts. -- AJ |
#53
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Tubus Cosmo Rack = Expensive Crap for Posers
On Sun, 05 Jun 2011 08:35:32 -0700, SMS
wrote: On 6/5/2011 4:58 AM, DougC wrote: On 6/4/2011 4:29 PM, Lou Holtman wrote: Op 4-6-2011 22:00, DougC schreef: On 6/3/2011 5:13 PM, Coolmaine wrote: The good quality ali rack which came on my Utopia Kranich sacrificed itself to protect my bike when it was twice attacked by a carelessly driven Range Rover. Once I managed to straighten it but the second time it was crippled forever. ..... On a semi-related note, I have never, ever understood why frame companies use tiny lower bolts for racks. They're using 3mm bolts when they should be using 6mm or more. M3? Look again. Tubus use M5 bolts. Well my racks do. Lou I don't know what the exact size is--other than if they're the same size as the fender bolts, the rack bolts are too ****ing small. And they should be using bolts 2X as thick. There's no reason for larger bolts. Not only would larger bolts not provide any additional strength to the load, they would require larger struts on the rack and larger braze-ons on the frame. The exact size is M5, 5mm diameter, so now you do know the exact size. Theoretically, the fender bolts are too large for the weight they have to carry, but they use M5 for fenders for several other reasons, including a larger head diameter for the fender support strut holes, to minimize the number of different diameter bolts, to allow racks or fenders to use the same threaded holes by the rear dropouts, and to simplify manufacturing by not have so many different size taps. To be picky the exact size is M5-.8, which is the metric coarse thread. There is also a fine thread that is M5-.5, that won't fit. The thin rounded head screws are commonly refereed to as "button head", not as "cap head" as another poster called them. If you are in the store pointing your finger it is perfectly all right to say "I'll take 5 of them things, there" but if you aren't it is better to know the common industry term for the dinguses that you want. |
#54
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Tubus Cosmo Rack = Expensive Crap for Posers
Andre Jute wrote:
On Jun 5, 12:31 pm, Tosspot wrote: On 06/05/2011 12:17 PM, Coolmaine wrote: On Jun 5, 10:08 am, Tosspot wrote: snip http://www.bicyclinglife.com/howto/heavydutyracks.htm:-) Nice work, Frank. I've saved that article, and the photos separately. I can get good quality stainless work done locally, except that they don't do tiny tubes... But bending up bar stock and laser-cutting hole would be a breeze for these guys. -- Andre Jute I was quite impressed at how simple it was to fabricate. You get so used to ally tubing racks, neatly welded, anodized and all, you forget the basics, it just has to be able to carry a load. My only thought would be how the panniers fit. Yeah. I just didn't think of having a rack made of flat bar stock, bolted together, which would solve my problem of not having a bicycle fabricator in reach because I could use the standard kitchen/bullbar fabricators down the road. Guess I've just been mixing with these roadies, weight weenies and engineers with their counter-productive mass fetish for too long. As a school boy wanting to take my bicycle touring with camping gear, I couldn't afford fancy equipment, and made my own racks from solid steel round bar, brazed together, as part of metal work classes. I think I've still got the front rack at home. It never broke, despite rough treatment and dirt roads with panniers. The bike had an aluminium rear rack. It think it was a Blackburn rack. It broke carrying firewood back to camp, but not bad enough to end the trip. I got it repaired after returning home. With the bike fully loaded, I could barely lift it off the ground. Thank goodness for very low gears ;-) -- JS. |
#55
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Molded, Not Laid-up and Painted
On 6/5/2011 6:41 PM, Andre Jute wrote:
On Jun 5, 7:43�pm, T�m Sherm�n� �_�""twshermanREMOVE\"@THI $southslope.net" wrote: The perfect solution is tossing all your stuff behind the seat of your velomobile. The perfect solution to looking a right jerkoff on any road anywhere in the world: a "velomobile", furthermore painted in a silly exhibitionist's fluorescent pastel color. Yech. Point of technical correction - the body on my Trisled Rotovelo [1] is *not* painted. Rather, pigment is added to the HDPE resin prior to rotational molding. This provides a shell that is much less susceptible to cosmetic damage than painted fiber-reinforced epoxy shells. The shell is also semi-translucent, so an internal light can be added for glow-in-the-dark effects. [1] http://www.flickr.com/photos/19704682@N08/5792235188/sizes/l/in/photostream/. -- Tºm Shermªn - 42.435731,-83.985007 I am a vehicular cyclist. |
#56
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Nickel Plating
On 6/5/2011 6:38 PM, Andre Jute wrote:
I've saved the Nitto/Riv page. The nickel plate sounds like a good idea. Thanks, Steven. -- AJ Nickel plating needs to be near-perfect - otherwise ugly rust spots will appear at the "pinholes" in the plating. (I once had a nickel-plated bike [1] that suffered from this). [1] Photo taken by the person I sold it to: http://www.doctorvision.com/wishbone/wb_profile.jpg. -- Tºm Shermªn - 42.435731,-83.985007 I am a vehicular cyclist. |
#57
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Tubus Cosmo Rack = Expensive Crap for Posers
john B. wrote:
On Sun, 05 Jun 2011 08:35:32 -0700, SMS wrote: On 6/5/2011 4:58 AM, DougC wrote: On 6/4/2011 4:29 PM, Lou Holtman wrote: Op 4-6-2011 22:00, DougC schreef: On 6/3/2011 5:13 PM, Coolmaine wrote: The good quality ali rack which came on my Utopia Kranich sacrificed itself to protect my bike when it was twice attacked by a carelessly driven Range Rover. Once I managed to straighten it but the second time it was crippled forever. ..... On a semi-related note, I have never, ever understood why frame companies use tiny lower bolts for racks. They're using 3mm bolts when they should be using 6mm or more. M3? Look again. Tubus use M5 bolts. Well my racks do. Lou I don't know what the exact size is--other than if they're the same size as the fender bolts, the rack bolts are too ****ing small. And they should be using bolts 2X as thick. There's no reason for larger bolts. Not only would larger bolts not provide any additional strength to the load, they would require larger struts on the rack and larger braze-ons on the frame. The exact size is M5, 5mm diameter, so now you do know the exact size. Theoretically, the fender bolts are too large for the weight they have to carry, but they use M5 for fenders for several other reasons, including a larger head diameter for the fender support strut holes, to minimize the number of different diameter bolts, to allow racks or fenders to use the same threaded holes by the rear dropouts, and to simplify manufacturing by not have so many different size taps. To be picky the exact size is M5-.8, which is the metric coarse thread. There is also a fine thread that is M5-.5, that won't fit. The thin rounded head screws are commonly refereed to as "button head", not as "cap head" as another poster called them. If you are in the store pointing your finger it is perfectly all right to say "I'll take 5 of them things, there" but if you aren't it is better to know the common industry term for the dinguses that you want. Standard head height allen bolt is DIN 912 and the head-too-shallow-for-good-wrench-engagement bolts are ULS. Cylindrical shape shallow heads are DIN 7984. Standard height nuts are DIN 934, Nylock are DIN 985. Go forth and shop; eschew click to buy wrong items. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
#58
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Tubus Cosmo Rack = Expensive Crap for Posers
On Jun 5, 3:18*pm, DougC wrote:
You would likely need to have it custom-made. At least part of it, anyway.. If you could find a cheaper all-steel rack, much of the hardware could be salvaged from that which would save a lot of time. Bending and sticking steel tubing with a torch doesn't take long at all. Alex Wetmore does a lot of that. Some of his racks can be seen by searching his blog site. For example, browse around http://tinyurl.com/3th4ffr - Frank Krygowski |
#59
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Tubus Cosmo Rack = Expensive Crap for Posers
On Jun 5, 7:53*pm, john B. wrote:
To be picky the exact size is M5-.8, which is the metric coarse thread. There is also a fine thread that is M5-.5, that won't fit. The thin rounded head screws are commonly refereed to as "button head", not as "cap head" as another poster called them. I gave up on button head M5 screws after stripping a couple of the hex wrench sockets. - Frank Krygowski |
#60
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Molded, Not Laid-up and Painted
On 6/6/2011 12:22 AM, Tosspot wrote:
On 06/06/2011 02:39 AM, Tºm Shermªn™ °_° wrote: On 6/5/2011 6:41 PM, Andre Jute wrote: On Jun 5, 7:43�pm, T�m Sherm�n� �_�""twshermanREMOVE\"@THI $southslope.net" wrote: The perfect solution is tossing all your stuff behind the seat of your velomobile. The perfect solution to looking a right jerkoff on any road anywhere in the world: a "velomobile", furthermore painted in a silly exhibitionist's fluorescent pastel color. Yech. Point of technical correction - the body on my Trisled Rotovelo [1] is *not* painted. Rather, pigment is added to the HDPE resin prior to rotational molding. This provides a shell that is much less susceptible to cosmetic damage than painted fiber-reinforced epoxy shells. The shell is also semi-translucent, so an internal light can be added for glow-in-the-dark effects. [1] http://www.flickr.com/photos/19704682@N08/5792235188/sizes/l/in/photostream/. My Eyes! My EYES!! You actually taken that tart out onto the road yet? Cos I'm expecting a stream of crashed from blinded drivers... Here are some of the prototype batch cruising Melbourne: http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4027/5139555796_f5f5d2450a.jpg. -- Tºm Shermªn - 42.435731,-83.985007 I am a vehicular cyclist. |
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