Cyclocross bike fit different?

I have started looking at cyclocross bikes, which I want for
commuting/touring and dirt road riding. One shop I was at recommended
getting a frame TWO sizes smaller than my road bike frame, which is a
56 for my Fuji. The explanation was that the bottom bracket was
higher, so you need to go to the smaller size to have the proper
stand-over height. Do experienced cyclocrossers agree with this
recommendation. Yes, I know there are different methods of measuring
the frame sizes on road bikes, so this may not be exact. But does it
work in general?

(Bryan C) wrote in message . com...
I have started looking at cyclocross bikes, which I want for
commuting/touring and dirt road riding. One shop I was at recommended
getting a frame TWO sizes smaller than my road bike frame, which is a
56 for my Fuji. The explanation was that the bottom bracket was
higher, so you need to go to the smaller size to have the proper
stand-over height. Do experienced cyclocrossers agree with this
recommendation. Yes, I know there are different methods of measuring
the frame sizes on road bikes, so this may not be exact. But does it
work in general?

Bryan,
I bought a cross bike a couple of years ago and have been using it for
commuting, trail riding and road riding. It has virtually replaced my
road bike since the cross bike is more comfortable and fun to ride.
It is the same frame size as my road bike. I have taken it onto
pretty rough, rocky trails and don't have a problem with stand over
height. I rarely need to straddle the top tube though.

I would recommend you buy a frame that feels the best for the type of
riding that will put the most miles on your bike. Buying a small frame
would make commuting and touring uncomfortable. Plus, if you will be
racing it in cyclocross, you mount and dismount, but don't need to
straddle the tube, so I don't see how that would make a difference.
Brad

(Bryan C) wrote:

I have started looking at cyclocross bikes, which I want for
commuting/touring and dirt road riding. One shop I was at recommended
getting a frame TWO sizes smaller than my road bike frame, which is a
56 for my Fuji. The explanation was that the bottom bracket was
higher, so you need to go to the smaller size to have the proper
stand-over height. Do experienced cyclocrossers agree with this
recommendation. Yes, I know there are different methods of measuring
the frame sizes on road bikes, so this may not be exact. But does it
work in general?

Not necessarily, and it may not work at all if you can't get the bars
high enough. A small-size bike is a problem, unless it has a long
head tube and upsloping toptube, perhaps.

Unscheduled get-offs are more common in cross than on the road, but not
an issue for commuting and dirt-road riding. Still, standover is never
really the first priority in bike fit - you rarely straddle the bike
dead upright in your socks.

For more on cyclocross bike fit see Adam Myerson's article at

http://www.cycle-smart.com/coaching/...rossbike1.html

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In article ,
Bryan C wrote:
I have started looking at cyclocross bikes, which I want for
commuting/touring and dirt road riding. One shop I was at recommended
getting a frame TWO sizes smaller than my road bike frame, which is a
56 for my Fuji. The explanation was that the bottom bracket was
higher, so you need to go to the smaller size to have the proper
stand-over height. Do experienced cyclocrossers agree with this
recommendation. Yes, I know there are different methods of measuring
the frame sizes on road bikes, so this may not be exact. But does it
work in general?

_ Well, I followed this advice with my cross bike and I regretted
it. I ended up having to buy a new uncut fork so I could get the
handlebars high enough. Fortunately, surly cross check forks are
relatively cheap. A slightly lower top tube is nice for those
occaisonal accidental dismounts, but not being able to get the
handlebars high enough is a much bigger problem. Plus you may
end up with a too short top tube if you go two sizes smaller.

_ I would also think twice about getting a Cross bike for

"commuting/touring and dirt road riding"

The high bottom bracket makes for a relatively twitchy bike. It
may perhaps be because the bike is on the small side for me, but
my Cross Check is not a bike I would pick for hours in the saddle
with a load. It's a blast on dirt roads and okay for an hour or
two on the road, but just seems to fight you after a couple
hours. It needs looking after when you get tired and sloopy. A
full on touring bike will work just fine for all the above and be
a lot more comfortable on a long day.

_ What you really need to do all the above is a bike
with sufficient clearance to put fat tires on it.
While a cross bike may be the obvious choice, it's
not the only choice.

_ Booker C. Bense



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